Newby's first request

[HoraceM22]

Morning all, My recently acquired, restored, '74 TCS has been undergoing a few bits of attention since buying it a couple of months ago, to make it more to my liking. I has a TC when they were new in '72.

Removal of the (Banks and others) gear linkage to check and tighten, etc. Making a reverse gear detente plate which works well (I'll put this on - with drawings - later for your appraisal). Refitting the reconditioned original Girling servo. Fitting the "H" clips to the rear brake shoes which were missing and now have a semblance of a handbrake, still to get the fronts to bite like I am used to with my supercharged X/Flow Westfield, any suggestions? The Westy has a AP Racing master cylinder.

Today's question concerns the steering lock. I had a scary moment the other day when making a gentle slow RH turn out of a garage when the steering suddenly wouldn't unlock and I went " slowly" careering clockwise across the road to the opposite kerb. Luckily there was no other traffic about. It needed a REALLY hard tug to get it to unlock. This has happened on a much smaller level a couple of times previously and I thought it was something at the rack end, but I couldn't replicate it back home. This time when I investigated I could hear a clicking around the steering lock, and I have deduced that the steering lock has broken down and this time the locking lug went into the column. Strangely, after a fiddle about, even with the key out, the lock wouldn't engage at all!

So, after looking behind the scenes, I can see that to replace this (or just remove the locking lug, if poss, I'll need the drill out the two snap-off bolts, but to get at them I need to undo the bolts holding the column to the chassis (I think). This in turn means I will have to remove the dash so EVENTUALLY I'm asking "is the dash just held by the screws around the edge of it? or is there something more sinister lurking?"
As it's the Kit Car show next Saturday and Sunday at Malvern and I'll be there with the Westfield, I might be able to get a replacement at the right price. Are the lock actually Spitfire bits? If I can get mine off in time I'll  be able to take it along to
compare
Sorry to drag this out but as it's one of my first posts I thought I'd give a heads up on where I'm at. Dodford, Northants, UK as it happens.
I'm sure Some of you will be able to offer advice.
Many Thanks in advance
ATB all
H.
Horace Marks

[EuropaTC]

Hi and  from (sometimes) sunny Lincolnshire !

Locked steering sounds very scary, you've dodged a bullet with that one. 

I don't know for certain but would guess that the lock is most likely Triumph, the one on my '72 TC definitely is but I think the later cars had a re-designed steering controls ?   It might be worth scanning the Rimmer catalogue to see if you recognise anything ?  Personally I'd be tempted to take it off and remove the locking mechanism, no-one is going to steal these cars for a joy ride and if someone does want it they'll turn up with a low loader in the night. A steering lock isn't going to stop them.

As for brakes, there's a fair bit of info on this forum about pad material and I guess you'll know most of it from the Westfield.  The summary seems to be Greenstuff for initial bite & dusty wheels, personally I've gone for Mintex 1144 pads without a servo but I guess everyone has their own favourite.

Brian

[4129R]

The steering lock is available from Rimmer Bros. Triumph Spitfire Mk 3 or 4 , I believe.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID005829

To drop the column, the U bolt holding it to the bottom of the dashboard has 7/16" nuts holding it up. Just undo those 2 nuts (it takes ages as movement is restricted, and you are probably upside down), and the column drops down so you can drill out those bolts. Sometimes the twisting of the drill actually undoes the bolt for you. 

[S2Zetec54]

 

....from a wet west country

That sounded scary. Think i'd bin the lock aswell

.....hmmm update just nipped to where I keep my S2 and it's not quite as easy to remove the locking rod as I'd imagined. So have left a working steering lock alone for time being.

[TurboFource]

 

[europa88]

 
Good first post Horace.
As 4129R says drill the bolts out and replacements are available from Rimmers. As an aside, where you are is near to http://www.guglielmimotorsport.co.uk/. Thoroughly recommend him for any Europa suspension issues and setting up. He has done a few Europa's and mine was a different car after a visit. I'm in Oxfordshire so not too far from you.

Cheers Neil

[jbcollier]

The Europa has a very light front end.  In order for the brakes to work properly, you need weight transfer to occur before serious braking begins -- very much like a motorcycle.  Pads with a high initial bite may well lead to the fronts simply locking.

From personal experience, green stuff pads will fade in severe use.  Mintex 1144s are better.

[HoraceM22]

Thanks for those replies, especially the brake pad bit. I have Pagids on my Westfield but they are outrageously expensive, but having said that they have been on for years and still show no signs of wear. Green stuff or Mintex looks likely to give me the response I'm hoping for. Of course I may be expecting too much after driving a Porsche 991 Turbo S cab with 15" ceramics!
On my question of the steering lock removal, I agree with the point about the potential stealability of our cars and was thinking along the lines of just removing the locking lug (if it is possible, unless a new complete unit is not too expensive), but to get it off I'm pretty sure I need to remove - or at least undo the dash to get at the bolts holding the lock to the column to give me access to be able to drill the snap bolts out., or is it possible with a lot of arm dexterity?
Do you TCS guys all have a dash with several screws on the front holding the dash in, or are they a variation on a theme?

[4129R]

The wooden dashboard is held in place with 4 screws at the top 2 of which do into captive nuts, and the outer 2 are nuts and screws.

At the bottom, there are brackets at either end bolted to the dashboard, and bolted to the bodywork only by the micro switches which operate the internal light. Also 2 x nuts and bolts central below the window switches hold the bottom of the dash to 2 x L brackets bolted to the chassis which is a good place to attach earth wires.

But you only need to undo the U clamp to lower the whole column. 2 x 7/16" headed nuts. If they are Nyloc nuts, replace them with ordinary nuts and lock washers or you will be ages tightening them.

[BDA]

  HoraceM22!!

[Bainford]

 

[surfguitar58]

 

[SilverBeast]

 
I have 74 TCS and can confirm you can drop the column without removing the dash as stated above. It's a PITA and I used a cut down (broken) spanner to make it a little easier.

[dakazman]

 
 HoraceM22
  Dakazman

[HoraceM22]

Well, I found that I couldn't get my hand and a spanner around the back of the dash, but after a bit of wiggling, I was able to rotate the column sufficiently to enable me to get a drill into the two snap bolts. and when I drilled out the two tiny roll pins and had a look inside the lock - NOTHING WAS BROKEN !
I stripped it down fully expecting something to drop out, but nothing (well only the tiny spring which holds a lever on the outside of the actual lock bit). There were a few burrs on the ally but nothing of note, and when reassembled, the locking bar was protruding but when the key was turned the bar retracted and stayed that way until the key was removed.
So now I'm on to looking at the other end of the steering column and rack.
Grrrrrr.