It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[Cheguava]

Progress of sorts happening. Suspension parts getting made rust free and shiny again, and the local garage is going to press out the old bushes and press in the new ones, which will help me greatly. While I wait for that, and for another parcel of parts to arrive, I cracked on with getting the engine apart in order to replace the timing chain and water pump, and inspect the state of the engine.

Good news, all appears in pretty fair condition, needing a scrub but not much further as far as I can see from bores etc. Bad news, the crankshaft pulley crumbled at the edges when I was trying to use an admittedly crappy puller to remove it, so a better puller and new pulley both ordered.   And once the knackered pulley is off, I can get the front cover off with the water pump. 

My bodyshop guy has not been in touch, so I'm going to have to add that to the list of tasks. Very frustrating that I've been trying to get that done for almost a year, but as usual I'm going full Pollyanna and thinking about how it will mean the car will be more a product of my work and questionable skills.  And that the budget freed up can buy other things, like new Cosmics and other shiny things.

[BDA]

The bores and the head look pretty good. Of course a head refresh would be called for. I might replace the rings and bearings  regardless of their condition since you have easy access.

Your body man must be good (or cheap ) to not hear from him for so long. I thought my body was pretty flat but the paint shop I took it to still took six weeks or so to paint my car (I thought that was really long but I've heard much worse stories). In their defense, they really did a great job. It pays to have professionals do the stuff that shows! 

[Cheguava]

So, decent puller eventually arrived, and removed the chewed up pulley with ease. And I could then set to work removing the 11 bolts / nuts and bolts in assorted sizes and slotting them into a trusty piece of cardboard. next step in the manual is "remove the cover" but it's reluctant to let go. It seems like it should come off, and I've managed to slide a slim metal scraper between the cover and backing plate all round, but it's not for letting go at the moment...

Could I ask another stupid question here - there's nothing else holding the cover on is there?  From recent experience, I'd rather not snap something and have to stump up for a replacement, particularly the cover plate.

[EuropaTC]

If all the bolts are out then it might be sticking on the water pump. I've added a couple of photos of mine when I replaced it, one coming out and a better shot of the assembly when the impellor clearances were adjusted.

If you can rotate the cover sideways - clockwise/anticlockwise, that should point to the hold up being a gunged up pump....

Brian

[Cheguava]

Thanks Brian, that's really helpful, I'll try and see if it might wriggle loose this evening - that might well be the point it's sticking.

[4129R]

There is a rubber O ring around the pump impeller which will be tight after all the bolts are removed.

When re-fitting, to get the O ring to slide into place, I tighten in progressive sequence  the 3 bolts around the shaft so the O ring properly seats.

.

[Cheguava]

There is a rubber O ring around the pump impeller which will be tight after all the bolts are removed.

When re-fitting, to get the O ring to slide into place, I tighten in progressive sequence  the 3 bolts around the shaft so the O ring properly seats.

.

Thanks - I presume that's the ring that can be seen on Brian's before and after pictures? Sounds good - will use that tip on reassembly.

[Cheguava]

Only time for a brief bit of case wriggling this evening, but as advised by the wise, a little twisting of the front plate about the axis of the water pump had it easing off without brute force. Heartfelt thanks for this.

As can be seen, the pump is pretty grotty - the impeller turns with the pulley mount but not easily and feels a little gritty in motion, like the bearing may not be in its best fettle. Replacing the pump and timing chain definitely the right thing to do while the engine is out.

I'll be needing water pump, chain, head gasket, timing case gasket, sump gasket, seals, etc etc. Any recommends for engine parts? Europa specialists best or Twin Cam parts suppliers like QED or Burton?  Would like to try and get this cleaned up and bolted back together before I forget too much about how it came apart! 

[jbcollier]

A clear case of neglect.  Coolant needs regular changing to keep it from looking like that!

[EuropaTC]

It might not be delberate neglect John, from what I remember at the start this car has been sitting around for years so I'd expect heavy rusting. Or maybe you're right, leaving it sitting for so long is definitely neglect 

I bought my last kit from Burtons, it's standard Ford stuff IIRC. The kit came as bearing/impellor/seal but when I got it the O rings were separate and if the aluminium housing is corroded as well, that's another component not in the kit. Unless you're very unlucky the aluminimum bit should be fine to go again, but worth checking before the order goes in.

Just so you don't go down one of my learning curves, the first time I did this on the Europa I hadn't done a TC pump before and after it all went back I still had overheating. Not like the failed pump where the temperature rocketed fom start up, this was ok-ish at low revs but increased more than normal above a few k revs.   After changing thermostat, radiator core and running without the 'stat it still overheated. Compressions were fine so only the new pump left to go at. Stripping the cover for a second time, the impellor fell off as I removed the cover, it was spinning on the shaft.

I put this down to either a duff part or more likely, a duff mechanic. I remember that when I adjusted the clearance I did faff about a bit, pulling the impellor back a touch to get mid range clearance and in hindsight thought I might have loosened the interference fit doing that.   The two pumps I've done since, Elan & Europa, I just pressed into place once to the tightest tolerance (as in that pic) and left it alone.

Brian

[4129R]

Any recommends for engine parts? Europa specialists best or Twin Cam parts suppliers like QED or Burton? 

I have always used QED and have found them to be very good.

[BDA]

I’ve used Burton (not for a TC motor) and found them very good. But then I’ve had good experiences with other Europa suppliers - SJ, Lotus Supplies, Kelvedon.

[Cheguava]

Thanks all, I've gone with QED - their website and ordering system seems very professional which is hopefully a good sign

Mr Collier is absolutely right about the neglect, the car sat idle for 20 years before my ownership, and 1 so far in mine.    Tempted to try filling up the block with Evapo-rust (after sealing up the holes on the bottom)  and trying to get rid of some of that rust before the engine goes back together. Alternatively will have to flush after it's back together, but that will spread any loosened rust and sludge through the system.

[4129R]

You will find lots of rust coloured sludge in both the block, the long pipes going to the rad, and the remote header tank by the battery.

Don't let this sludge get flowing into the radiator.

If you put in a new rad, then keep it clean. If you are using the old rad, flush it through carefully and often to remove any sludge. 

When refilling the coolant, I fill through the thermostat housing on the head to make sure the block is full.

[Cheguava]

You will find lots of rust coloured sludge in both the block, the long pipes going to the rad, and the remote header tank by the battery.

Don't let this sludge get flowing into the radiator.

If you put in a new rad, then keep it clean. If you are using the old rad, flush it through carefully and often to remove any sludge. 

When refilling the coolant, I fill through the thermostat housing on the head to make sure the block is full.

All very good advice The long pipes had rusted out, so have been replaced with stainless, and the remote header tank has been removed and thoroughly cleaned. I need to pressure test it yet to make sure the rust hasn't led to any pin holes, but it seems OK, if not will be replaced. The radiator was shot too (there's a theme here!) and I bought a used one which will be thoroughly flushed before fitting. All coolant hoses are getting replaced.

After a night's reflection, definitely going ahead with filling up the block waterways with rust removing solution, although might be using the homebrew version I found on YouTube - citric acid + sodium carbonate + dish soap, leave it to steep for 24 hours then rinse though with water, then water and coolant additive for rust inhibition while I get it back together.