It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[Cheguava]

You could send a photo to them to be specific about what you want.

I'm afraid I was *that* person - sent them a picture of my seats and asked if theirs were the same! In my mind I was being helpful.
I'll see how helpful they found it when I get a response.

[Cheguava]

So, set myself the task of getting the dashboard out today, should be easy given it only occupies half a dozen lines in the manual. Wrestled off the steering wheel (prior application of release spray then rocking it at various different opposing points did the trick) and got the steering clamp off before the serious business set in. The inner dash screws in the bobbins came out, the outers just spun the nuts behind the dash. after getting access to the nut, just about got it to undo, but it was a close run thing. And the genius work of the dual purpose courtesy switch and fascia mount defeated me - nut just spun round, and the front is circular... Had to cut it off, luckily there was just room.

Still got the n/s door switch bolt, and fascia screw to remove, but feels like progress. Lying in the footwell with my head under the dash and my feet on the bulkhead had all the same joy (ie none) of sorting the dashboard wiring of my Scimitar in the 90's - I was more flexible then though!

After I've done the dash I might have a go at removing the door, seeing as it's just a case of removing the split pin and sliding the outer tube down.  Given the split pin's not for shifting, looks like hacksaw work may be needed.

Looking for replacements for the multitasking courtesy switches, I see Banks have them at a shade under £15 each, but no stock. Looks like they are common to Austin A30/35s, as this seller's switches look very similar to me.

https://www.austina30a35parts.co.uk/product/all-electrical-parts/courtesy-light-switch-zswh001/ZSWH001

[BDA]

Nope, that's definitely not the same switch. It looks like a much nicer one!

Don't forget about the tapped hole in the bottom of the hinge pin 5/16 - 24 or 16.

A saws-all is your friend but not having one, I just used a hacksaw blade handle - with a hacksaw blade, of course.

[Fotog]

That hinge pin looks like it's stainless.  There's virtually no rust there.  So it should be possible to pull it.  Not to mention that it will be difficult to cut assuming I'm right that it's stainless.

That doesn't mean it will be necessarily easy, because chances are low that all the bushings in the door and body are actually co-axial.

[BDA]

Good point, Fotog. Cheguava can check it with a magnet. Most but not all stainless steels are non magnetic. If it's really rust free, it probably won't need to be cut and will come out with a little coaxing.

[EuropaTC]

The door pin and door bush/lock nut look in excellent condition, I wouldn't be surprised if someone has been there in the past and replaced them. When I did mine in the late 80s the car was probably 15-16yrs old and the lower part of the pin and door bushes were completely rusted. Even getting the nut to move was a big effort whereas yours looks as if you could be in with a good chance.

As for magentism the austenitic stainless steels, 18%Cr/8%Ni grades for example, are usually non-magnetic although they can have a very small pull on a magnet. Ferritic stainless steels with only 11/12%Cr were the original "stainless steels" and are strongly magnetic, it's the structure that does it. Ferritic steels are cutlery, usually exhaust tubing and anything where you want shiny/no rust but at a lower cost than the 18/8's. Hence it could be as magnetic as plain steel but still stainless.

I would certainly try to move that pin though, leave it soaking in plus-gas or equivalent for a couple of days and you could be in luck with it.

Brian

[Cheguava]

Thanks all, really appreciate the input. It struck me late last night that I'd not supported the weight of the door, and that might have hampered the pin from shifting.  I'll give it a further dousing of release spray and then try again in a couple of days.

[GavinT]

Posted in anticipation...

[GavinT]

And from this thread...

https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=5601.msg60568

[EuropaTC]

Thanks all, really appreciate the input. It struck me late last night that I'd not supported the weight of the door, and that might have hampered the pin from shifting.  I'll give it a further dousing of release spray and then try again in a couple of days.

What usually happens is that the pin seizes in the door bush and so when you open the door the pin moves at the same time and the sliding surfaces are between the aluminium bushes in the body (lower sill, upper door aperture). This is what causes the wear and doors to drop.

My first shot would be to sit inside the car, hold the pin with mole grips and try to open the door. If it moves the mole grips as well, then use the leverage of the door whilst holding the grips to get the pin rotating while the door is stationary. That'll be the best way to get the release fluid where it's needed and any marks from the grips can be filed off before you start to drop the pin out.

Brian

[dakazman]

   My stainless Pins from RD have a threaded hole in the lower end to accept a bolt that aids in turning and removing.
 I use my Bonney wrenches to loosen and tighten nuts.  Okay Gavin no jokes now.
 Dakazman

[Cheguava]

What usually happens is that the pin seizes in the door bush and so when you open the door the pin moves at the same time and the sliding surfaces are between the aluminium bushes in the body (lower sill, upper door aperture). This is what causes the wear and doors to drop.

My first shot would be to sit inside the car, hold the pin with mole grips and try to open the door. If it moves the mole grips as well, then use the leverage of the door whilst holding the grips to get the pin rotating while the door is stationary. That'll be the best way to get the release fluid where it's needed and any marks from the grips can be filed off before you start to drop the pin out.

Brian

Been out all day, but popped out to the garage this evening to see if I could make any progress. With the driver's door supported, got the split pin out!  However, the door pin rotates with the door, and so far, is resisting any attempts with the mole grips to loosen. Will try again tomorrow.  The passenger door pin, on the other hand, does not rotate as you open the door, but the crusty tail of the split pin is pointing inwards, so removing that is going to be joyful, unless I can get an improvised punch on it and knock it through. One for tomorrow.

[Cheguava]

   My stainless Pins from RD have a threaded hole in the lower end to accept a bolt that aids in turning and removing.
 I use my Bonney wrenches to loosen and tighten nuts.  Okay Gavin no jokes now.
 Dakazman

Cheers, I will have a look from underneath and see if I'm in luck and have the same assistance. Definitely worth a check.

[Cheguava]

You could send a photo to them to be specific about what you want.

I'm afraid I was *that* person - sent them a picture of my seats and asked if theirs were the same! In my mind I was being helpful.
I'll see how helpful they found it when I get a response.

I'm spamming my own thread now.    Just admin - need to add that Banks have replied today (promptly) to my email, confirming that their ribbed perforated vinyl seat covers look to be the same as mine, and also answering another question I had. They quote lead time for seats as 3-4 weeks, which works for me, thought I'd share it as I know there are others considering options.

[GavinT]

Thanks Dave - living in the antipodes, I never really came across a "Bonney wrench".
My old Scottish uncle used to tell me about a 'bonny wench' engendering similar constrictions.... so perhaps that's where the confusion set in.