Rust Protection

[Steve_Lindford]

Can anyone recommend rust protection for those inaccessible places - such as inside front chassis T section - and inside rear suspension trailing arms. There is obviously rust inside that cant be removed - but can I add something to make it get no worse??

Steve

[jbcollier]

You want something that stays at least partly liquid.  That way it flows into all the corners and crevasses.  Rustproofing that hardens just traps moisture against the metal you are trying to protect.

Myself, I'm using Wurth Cavity Protection Spray.

[buzzer]

I used dinitrol, they do a number of different types for underbody and cavity situations. There are others like waxoil

[Steve_Lindford]

OK thanks - I have been trying to suck out a lot of dirt/seeds/rust bits from the front cross member with some success. Wish I had tried this when the front chassis plate was removed a while back. I have also managed to take some photos to see progress by using a small camera. Worryingly it is a bit damp in there - which I think is as a result of having to disconnect the cooling system at the back to tilt engine for gearbox removal. Water ran out into the central chassis - the car is tilted forward.

I would have to use a spray to access the inside - if these products are fluid enough to spray - will they still stick to the sides??

[andy harwood]

Eastwood has a variety of products, although located in the US.
the aerosol cans have a hose with a spray nozzle - I taped it to a stick, and was able to reach all areas.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-rust-encapsulator-paint-over-rust.html

[jbcollier]

If you don't mind a bit of a mess, you can just spray on engine oil.  It flows everywhere and stops rust dead.  Use to work at a Citroen shop and we would spray used oil in all doors and cavities for owners that drove their DSs in the winter.  Messy -- we would let it drip for a day or so -- but absolutely no rust developed.

[Steve_Lindford]

Thanks all - First I am trying to suck out the crud that has collected with tubes connected to my household vacuum cleaner...

[Bodzer]

Hi Steve,

I'm using Bilt hamber dynax s50 for my rebuild. I was very pleased with their water soluble de-rust solution (deox-c) and their rust converter (hydrate 90) so I decided to stick with them for the cavity protection. Bilt hamber get good write ups and are a UK company (Billericay, Essex) so it will be easy for you to get a hold of. I think that there is three different formulations depending on if it will be exposed to UV light etc.

ACF-50 (Lear corp)also gets good reviews but is slightly harder for me to get a hold of here in Ireland but that is improving as I write.  I got a small tester sample at my local motor factors and they said they could get it if I needed it but it's not something they would carry in the shop all the time. I'm using the Lear corrosion block grease during my chassis rebuild. Early days yet but I shall report of the results in time.

Regards,

Pete

[Stuleslie]

Have a look at Rust.co.uk
Rust seems to be their business with powerful rust converters and waxing kits.
Unfortunately I have not yet tried these products myself.

Stuart

[buzzer]

I've used their epoxy chassis paint. good stuff. bonds well and doesn't chip. it does mark quite easily if you scratch it but does not penetrate, just shows up whiteish on black epoxy
used their injection gun.

[Steve_Lindford]

I feel most worried about the front chassis cross piece. From photos I can see rust penetrating from a black layer of old protection. Because access is minimal - I cant remove what is there - or scrape anything off - so what I choose for that area will have to take into consideration that all I can do is get a spray nozzle and spray in as many directions as possible - hoping it doesnt affect the u/j for the steering shaft.

The water cooling pipes look in poor condition - presumably for those to be replaced - the engine needs to come out?? - hopefully not the body as well??

[jbcollier]

Just the engine out will do.