It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[My S1]

Cheguava,  is this screen material on the blower intake original to S2 Europas?  It seems like a good feature to add to my S1.  The collection of dust on the semi gloss painted panels of my car is a constant source of frustration.  I have thought about adapting a modern production car cabin filter but worried that it might restrict the air flow too severely.  Has anyone else solved the fresh (clean) air problem effectively?

[Cheguava]

Cheguava,  is this screen material on the blower intake original to S2 Europas?  It seems like a good feature to add to my S1.  The collection of dust on the semi gloss painted panels of my car is a constant source of frustration.  I have thought about adapting a modern production car cabin filter but worried that it might restrict the air flow too severely.  Has anyone else solved the fresh (clean) air problem effectively?

My Europa is a fairly early TC, so I can't speak for them, but I'm pretty certain it's an original fitment. I'll be needing to replace it when I get to that point in the rebuild, but haven't looked at it yet.  It's a very good question though, have any mods been done that improve the ventilation?

*EDIT* - it's definitely a S2 innovation, it's in the pre TC manual. https://www.lotuseuropa.org/images/WorkshopManual/S2_Section_P_-_Heating_Ventilation.pdf

[Cheguava]

They say there's a fine line between genius and madness. They probably also say I have no idea where that line is... 

 My first work of genius was thinking that as the rear shocks and springs were junk, but I needed the dust caps, then rather than fight with the coil compressors and scare myself witless, I could cut through the shock absorber plunger and the spring would only expand a few inches. Cut most of the way through and then gently twisted the shock absorber - it worked and I didn't die! Dust cap off without any damage, to use with the new springs and adjustable shocks. Got to do the other side but definitely less stress and time.

Next up was to mix up a batch of rust remover - 100g of citric acid plus 63g of sodium bicarbonate plus a little fairy liquid as surfactant per litre - 4 litres was some 300% over the top, so used the rest to give the brake drums a dip and see how they come up. There is a slow drip from the end despite my best sealing efforts, as without the 11 bolts I don't think the timing cover backplate is tight to the block, which is giving me concerns about the effect on the gasket   I think I'll be copying Dilkris' example and try and do some running before dropping the body back on it...

 

[Cheguava]

Fair to say the home brew rust remover worked pretty well. emptied out the block and rinsed with water, and results were pretty impressive. Once it's all back together I'll fill the waterways with an appropriate antifreeze additive that will inhibit rust, which shouldn't be that long. Cleaned up the piston tops, the deck is grubby but no concerning marks. I'll clean the deck up before I put it back together.

The amazing result was the brake drums, which have come up to a really good state considering their age and the storage conditions. Pretty decent given the low cost formula.