new owner '74 TCS misc ?

[BDA]

If you will not be doing your own work, obviously you'll need to find somebody you can trust. I think that is why it is common to find Europas with 30,000 miles on them that have sat up for 30 years. If you can't find someone who knows about Europas, an honest MG, Triumph, Jaguar or similar shop that is willing to read the manual should be able to help you. These are very simple cars. I've been through nearly every nut and bolt of mine (including my first tranny rebuild recently) and if I can make it run, it definitely does not require any special skill.

Unfortunately, the guy who rebuilt your tranny apparently didn't read the manual and had no understanding of how transmissions (at least) go together. There's no telling and it's not worth finding out what else he doesn't understand.

I'd advise you to join a club. Lotus Ltd. is the national Lotus club and you should be able to join here (https://lotusltd.com/). There is a local "chapter" in Pittsburgh (contact Russel Musta lotusinpittsburgh at comcast dot net) and it's likely someone in that chapter will be able to help you find a shop or maybe even teach you some things you can do on your own if you're motivated. If there is a local MG, Triumph, or Jaguar club, you might consider joining them too. Usually they only care that you have a British car. They may not even care if you actually have one! They might also be a source of assistance finding a shop or helping you learn. Of course, we're here to help you too.

Good luck!

[Lumbes]

Long overdue for an update on here, but all is well and the Europa is back together again!  I've been doing some shakedown tests when I can find the time and I'm just about ready to take it in for this year's inspection. 
Wasn't easy or cheap to make it here but for me it is still well worth the effort.  The original 365 that came with the car was in such bad shape that even after sourcing all the parts I could the shop I found ended saying they can't rebuild it properly.  Luckily I reached out on here and I was able to work out a deal with Joji who is just an ace to work with. 
He sold me a 365 he wasn't using and I had that one rebuilt using the best parts from both 365's.  Having dialed everything in the car it is driving better than ever but I have to admit it has taken me much longer to iron out all the different gremlins.
Ultimate goal is to make it to this year's LOG with an inspection.  Pittsburgh is only a 25 minute drive for me so I really would like to be there with the TCS.   

[BDA]

Congratulations, Lumbes! She's a beauty! You'll enjoy showing her off at the Pittsburgh LOG!!

[Bainford]

Nice! Good looking Europa. Must feel good to get out on the road.

[Lumbes]

So my fuel pump started leaking oil at a rate that I can hear it drip onto the exhaust and sizzle after a short drive.  This happened a few days ago so I torqued the two bolts that mount it to the engine block to 15 ft lbs and threw some medium strength loctite on them.  I let it set for 24 hours and the following drive had the same results.  Bolts stayed at 15 ft lbs but oil definitely leaked out after a drive.  I snugged it up just 2 lbs more and I let the car run in the garage to reach temp so the rad fan would cycle on and like that the oil leak is minor.  So minor I thought I fixed it by just snugging it up but after this most recent drive it is definitely leaking and pooling on top of my alternator.  Assuming I should order a new gasket and am wondering if anyone else on here is familiar with resolving an oil leak from where the fuel pump mounts to the block?  I wouldn't have thought the gaskets or seals to go bad within 2 years of a complete rebuild  .  That area was bone dry all the way up until now since the rebuild.   

[Lumbes]

Further inspection of the area revealed signs of the black rubber spacer deforming on the face that comes into direct contact with the block.  Looks a tad melted on the underside and that is where I have been seeing the oil leaking out.  I will know for certain when I remove it and can inspect that spacer when it is off the car.
Feeling confident a new gasket will fix the problem.

[BDA]

A new gasket and some gasket goo.

[Lumbes]

Thanks BDA I was considering the idea of applying a small bead of high temp oil resistant rtv sealant before you chimed in.  Now that you have I definitely will be.  Gasket will arrive by Wednesday and am hoping I can remove the pump and replace the gasket without any major headaches.  First time removing the fuel pump from the engine myself but I can't see it being overly complicated.

[BDA]

It should be very simple. I don't know that I've ever taken one of a TC motor but they all work pretty much the same. There is an arm in the fuel pump that rides on a cam on the camshaft. It's probably obvious but it wouldn't hurt to notice if that arm rides on the top or the bottom of the camshaft. It's probably on the top and it probably will only go in one way.

There's no need for high temp RTV, although there's nothing wrong with using that. Any RTV would be fine. I believe silicone is good for several hundred degrees so unless you're on the exhaust system, high temp stuff isn't needed. Clean off the mounting location on the block and the entire pump with some solvent (lacquer thinner, acetone, or similar). Smear a thin consistent layer on both sides of the gasket. If you put too much, when it's compressed it will form a glob that could fall off into your oil and cause troubles later. Tighten the bolts with a good solid tug. You don't have to strain but you should make sure they are tight. Not straining and the length of the wrench will pretty much get them tight enough. It's also highly unlikely that you'll overtighten them! There's no need to torque those bolts unless it makes you feel comfortable.

Relax! You'll successfully replace your fuel pump with very little drama and then you will have fixed your leak. Start the car to make sure it doesn't leak anymore and then take a drive to celebrate! When you get back home, crack open a beer and pat yourself on the back!

[Grumblebuns]

Word of caution when re-installing the fuel pump. The pump is driven off the jack shaft by cast in gear teeth on the shaft and is relatively soft. In my stumblebum days, I managed to break a few teeth on the jack shaft gear by being in too much of a hurry and not verifying that the two gears were engaged and proceeded to tighten the bolts holding the fuel pump on. I discovered the broken teeth when I tore the engine down for a rebuild.

Edit: Sorry folks, old age and too many memories . The fuel pump is driven by a lobe on the jack shaft. I was referring to the oil pump that is gear driven that destroyed the jack shaft.





;:

[Fotog]

The spacer that I've gotten from Ray at RD is mdf (medium density fiberboard), about 1/4 in thick.  It just needs a smear of rtv, and not hi-temperature.  I don't think there's a separate gasket.

It could be that if the oil seal intended to keep oil from the diaphragm is missing or compromised, the oil is leaking from the vent hole on the underside of the pump.

[Lumbes]

The old spacer has multiple cracks and splits running through it.  While dressing the new spacer with sealant I noticed a chunk missing from the side of the spacer.  I installed it anyways but was extra cautious knowing that area would be a weak spot.
Installed the new spacer but it cracked right at that weak area and at another location above it.  Thinking the hard plastic version of this spacer does not like to be torqued much.  Ordering two more spacers and hoping to have develop a feel before running out of them. 

[Lumbes]

New spacers arrived today!  Took my time removing the old paper gasket and sealant from the block and fuel pump.  A little Brakleen and a soft touch with a scraper cleaned it up real nice.  Applied new sealant to the mating surfaces and snugged up the two mounting bolts to a rather low torque (under 5 ft lbs).  Covered the threads with loctite and am hoping that snug is tight enough.  Going to let the sealant set for a day and will start it up tomorrow with results to follow.   

[Lumbes]

No luck in stopping the leak.  Put on another spacer with new gasket and the leak still persists.  Before the test drive it looked dry but after a few short miles there is evidence of oil on the underneath of the housing of the pump, onto the starter, down the side of the block and onto the exhaust.  Starting to believe the oil is not coming from around the spacer but out of the vent hole that Fotog calls out.  Leaning towards that being the culprit which would mean a seal has failed or that maybe the engine is not breathing enough?
I have the engine crankcase vent hole going to a small catch take that pulls a vacuum from the carb air cleaner.  The catch tank does work and I do empty it so many miles but perhaps the valve cover could be modified for extra venting?  Turbo I think has added one to his.  Not sure what the next steps should be but figuring I can order a fuel pump rebuild kit or maybe just a new fuel pump altogether.  If both of those don't solve it then I will have to look into modifying the valve cover for extra venting.   

[Dreamer]

Where does that big drop on the casting come from? I see the trail of oil running down and along the underside of the casting and then down the engine block as you describe. I agree you do not have a problem with the seal at the engine block. You need a couple of cameras set up to record as the engine is running.