1972 Twin Cam - in the shop

[MAK]

As I have stated numerous times, I have absolutely ZERO mechanical abilities, I can lift the hood and stare at the engine, and I know it it's an engine - impressive huh? I will take the time to learn more but not willing to spend months or years tearing it apart and learning, at 73 I am on the downside of time.

So, since I got the 72, I've read all your comments, drove it home 38 miles, 2 short drives 25 miles each, every drive scared the crap out of me, so off it went to my buddies it to my mechanic before I killed myself or someone else. The mechanic works on his old Jag XKE, TR6, and 76 Porsche Turbo, and works on 2 Esprits - He had the complete Europa workbook, along with the Renault trans books. I was surprised!

Here what I gave him as major issues:
1. At 55mph plus it suddenly becomes very twitchy, darting and steering immediately quick.
2. 1st gear is difficult to find.
3. Fuel System – Check the T-fitting between the tanks - if plastic replace with metal, concern about age of all fuel lines
4. Speedometer – Jumpy

Don't have a total update yet but he's what he's said so far, 
1. It wasn't me the car was scary to drive over 50 mph, he checked all the bushing, shocks etc. then took it to what he considered the "best" alignment shop in the valley - all the numbers were way off and both rear wheels faced extreme left.
2. Clutch need adjustment, wasn't engaging correctly, adjusted the clutch & linkage didn't need any parts and now shifts "as well as a Europa can"
3 & 4 - no news yet

called yesterday and said he was frustrated with the car, I immediately had a panic attack - OMG I just bought a problem -  but he then explained that he was almost done with the car but on the way back to his shop from the alignment shop the charge light came on, got back - alternator is fried - said he was glad it happened to him not me, so a new alternator is being put on.

know this isn't a fascinating to all of you that wrench these cars yourselves, but I want to start out with a car that works and is drivable and go from there.
More news to come. thanks

[BDA]

 Fear not. All of those things are pretty common issues and pretty easy to rectify. Once fixed, driving will be a blast!

The plastic 'T' fitting is between the carbs (I don't remember one between the fuel tanks but there must be one so best to check that one too). The speedo cable probably needs to be lubricated.

It's good that you have a good shop to take it to. I think the reason there are so many cars that have sat for 20, 30, or 40 years is because it started running rough or stopped and the owner didn't know where to take it - because a lot of places didn't want to touch it. In truth, for most things, they are no more complicated or strange than a Triumph Spitfire. Your Jaguar guy should have no problem with it and since he is also an Esprit guy, that should give you a great deal of comfort!

Let us know how it feels to drive it after it's been fixed!

[MAK]

Well got it back to today, drove it the 21 miles back to home
It went in for the following:
1. At 55mph plus it suddenly becomes very twitchy, darting and steering immediately quick.
Suspension checked ok, shocks and bushings "could" be changed but really not needed. Alignment was way off - attached, if you see anything that is a concern please post, I can handle positive comments.  Mechanic said the drive TO the alignment shop was "scary"

2. 1st gear is difficult to find.
Clutch was not engaging correctly, linkage was out of spec, all corrected, shifts as good as a Europa can. He had to remove the drivers seat and lube the track because he couldn't get it to move far enough back for him to shift - so now the seat moves.

3. Fuel System – Check the T-fitting between the tanks - if plastic replace with metal, concern about age of all fuel lines
There are no plastic pieces in the fuel lines and the T leading to the carbs is brass. Lines do not feel or appear to be brittle or old. Perhaps they were replaced? who know there is no history on the car.
4. Speedometer – Jumpy
Still Jumpy - need to replace - he would have to source or have me get him one, - it's on the to do list for later - winter?

Drive home still a little nerve racking, don't know the car well enough, don't know if I can trust it and have to get used to staring at cars wheel caps at eye level, but wasn't "twitchy" got it up to 75mph and was steady.  AND I actually found 1st gear 4 out of 5 times! I'm gaining on it!
Total cost to have him go over the car, replace the alternator, alignment, adjust the Weber carbs and fix the seat $900.

Buyers remorse?  - not even slightly - give me a cold one and I could sit and stare at this car all day long - It's mine after 50+ years

[BDA]

that's what really matters. It takes a while to get used to looking at other people's hubcaps. Practice defensive driving! Don't assume anybody can see you.

About your alignment... I think it's unusual for alignment racks to have the data for a Europa. My local shop didn't have it. The title of your alignment sheet says it covers years 1966 to 1975 - in other words, all Europas. For some reason, the alignment specs for the S2 and TC/TCS are not the same. The only reason I can think of is that the TC/TCS have wider tires than the S1/S2 but that is not an explanation that makes sense to me. For example, the workshop manual specifies the rear toe for the S1/S2 is 3/16" to 0" (per wheel) while the TC workshop manual specifies 1/4" to 1/8" (per wheel). S1/S2 rear camber is specified as 0° to -2° but the TC workshop manual specifies -1° +/- 30'. Looking at a few of the specs they dialed in, it appears that the rack treats all Europas as S1/S2 and those are the specs you got.

I want to stress that how it feels to you is what's important. The rear toe specs the shop used were less toed in than the TC/TCS manual specifies. This could save you on rear tires which tend to wear out very quickly on a TC/TCS.

I would not get a new speedo. Presumably, the shop checked that your speedo cable is well lubricated (which would be my first suggestion for your jumpy speedo. Benjy posted about a way that will likely fix your speedo here (https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=7005.msg75908#msg75908). I'm guessing that you might not feel comfortable doing something like that. There are shops that fix gauges, including speedos and tachs and I would call one of them and see what they think and you can decide if it makes more sense to fix it or buy new. Buying new will likely mean that it will not match your other gauges very well - in case that's important to you. I've had a good experience with West Valley Instruments (https://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/).

As for finding 1st gear, I never had a problem with it when my car was new (and original), although I readily admit that trouble finding gears is a common complaint. I assume that the likely situation is that there are warn pivot points or misalignment in the shift linkage. The usual suspect is the "top hat" bushings at the bottom of the shift lever where it connects to the forward shift linkage. I'm surprised they didn't seem to inspect that. Maybe they did and didn't feel the need to say so...

$900 sounds like a lot of money but it appears they really know what they're doing and factoring in the cost of an alternator and installation - $900 may not be that bad.

Having said all that, how it feels to you is the most important thing. I'm really glad you're happier with the car and it seems like you'll enjoy her for a long time! 

[EuropaTC]

Hi there,

I'd take all that as positive, including the $900. Think about it, you've had a mechanic look over the car for you and he's no doubt driven it himself, adjusted the carbs and given he's picked up the alignment issues you can be confident the car is roadworthy. He's been honest about the state of suspension parts and not tried the "you'd better change this lot" speech.

As for the speedo, before you buy anything take a look at the cable because it's very long, far longer than most mechanically driven speedos of the period. My first thing would be to check the routing for sharp bends, it's easy where it comes out of the gearbox but you'll need to grovel in the footwell with a light to see how it's set up behind the speedo.   

If it's all smooth sweeping bends then remove either end and pull the wire out, clean and refit with lubricant. Don't pack it solid with grease because with the length you'll increase drag and potentially the load on the drive in the gearbox even if it does steady the needle. Snapped cables aren't unusual on Europas, they shouldn't break and probably didn't back in the day but there's so much potential for doing it wrong; a sharp bend behind the speedo puts a lot of strain on the other end and that's where one of mine broke.

Brian

[jbcollier]

You have bent front uprights.  That's why the castor is out.  This is very, very common.  I have redone a Europa and a Seven.  Out of the 4 uprights, three were bent.

[MAK]

Thanks JB
Now if I knew what front uprights were, looked like or anything I might understand what you are talking about.
Help?  thanks

[BDA]

Uprights are sometimes called "vertical links." The stub axle is what the wheel rotates around. The stub axle is attached to the upright or vertical link. In the attached picture, the nut 'J' is what attaches the stub axle to the vertical link. The vertical thing that goes from the top of the assembly to the bottom is the vertical link.

The geometry of all the pieces n the picture are important. Caster is the angle of the upright compared to a vertical line and affects how the steering wheel returns after you make a turn. It affects the force required to turn the steering wheel. It also has a small effect on highway stability. On the Europa, that angle is not adjustable so if your caster is wrong, it means that something - most likely the upright - is bent.

[MAK]

BDA - Thanks
I get it!
the process starts!

[cazman]

Just wondering if anyone has ever made their uprights adjustable somehow.

[BDA]

The trunnions allow a bit of misalignment but not much. You can get trunnionless uprights here (https://www.canleyclassics.com/?product=trunnionless-front-suspension-kit) which would allow more adjustment. Unfortunately, they are pretty expensive and currently out of stock!

IIRC, JB has a pair on his car. Maybe he'll chime in with thoughts about them.

[Fotog]

I'll add my 2 cents to the speedo discussion.  I think it's most likely something with the cable.  Too sharp a bend in its routing or insufficient lubrication.  I'm thinking this may be a use for the 'semi-fluid' grease.  Nothing too thick or too thin. 

It's a helical wound cable, so any friction the cable meets in its turning results in it 'winding up' then unwinding once the forces build up sufficiently.  So it's turning smoothly at the transaxle end, but not so at the other end.  My speedo used to be 'jumpy', but after the cable broke (no surprise), I made sure that I had no severe bends (as best as possible) in the housing, and lubricated the new one properly.  Very little jumpiness now.
-Good luck!

[EuropaTC]

It's a helical wound cable, so any friction the cable meets in its turning results in it 'winding up' then unwinding once the forces build up sufficiently.  So it's turning smoothly at the transaxle end, but not so at the other end.  My speedo used to be 'jumpy', but after the cable broke (no surprise), I made sure that I had no severe bends (as best as possible) in the housing, and lubricated the new one properly.  Very little jumpiness now.

 

That's exactly what happened with me in after I bought the car in the 80s. Being lazy I just replaced the inner wire as I was using the car daily and not long after broke the second cable. I paid more attention the second time around.....