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1
Garage / Re: Renault Crank and Rods
« Last post by jbcollier on Today at 08:52:35 PM »
I bought some hi-zoot rods out of Australia.  Had minor clearance issues, just the usual fettling issues when fitting HP parts.

Make a difference?

For a stock-ish engine?  No.  Just get your old rods checked properly and straightened, resized, and/or rebushed as required.

For a warmed up engine that is going to live in the 5k to 7k range?  It is one of the usual mods to strengthen the bottom end.  It won’t make any more power but it will be less likely to put a rod through the block at very high rpm.
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Garage / Re: S1 336-08 Transaxle LEAK!!!!!!!!!!
« Last post by jbcollier on Today at 08:41:33 PM »
Been a while but I think I also disconnected the shock from the chassis.  Don’t remember it being anything but straight forward.
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FS/WTB: Europa Parts and Stuff / Re: WTB - Wheel(s)
« Last post by MAK on Today at 04:35:27 PM »
If it happened to 1, I would not trust the other 3.  Do yourself a favor and get new, really a couple hundred bucks vs an accident which would cost more or up your life insurance.
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Garage / Re: Renault Crank and Rods
« Last post by dakazman on Today at 03:46:52 PM »
The Alpine A110 parts can also be used but have a higher price.
Dakazman
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Garage / Re: S1 336-08 Transaxle LEAK!!!!!!!!!!
« Last post by dakazman on Today at 03:43:50 PM »
 I second that procedure, fotog is right on , that’s how I did mine.
I never did get my roll pins in but I use a machine screw to hold it in place. I just can’t get the roll pin started .
Dakazman
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Garage / Re: S1 336-08 Transaxle LEAK!!!!!!!!!!
« Last post by My S1 on Today at 02:54:06 PM »
Fotog, that is the best news I've heard since the previous owner agreed to sell me the car!  I'll try that before I tear apart the whole rear corner.  I'll have the lower link and the coilover off as well.  I was a bit nervous about removing/replacing that trailing arm by myself with the engine/transaxle installed.
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Garage / Re: S1 336-08 Transaxle LEAK!!!!!!!!!!
« Last post by Fotog on Today at 12:14:39 PM »
I've found that if you take the roll pin out at the inboard end of the half shaft and jack up the car so the suspension is hanging, you should be able to pop the half shaft off the transaxle output shaft by simply giving a yank outboard on the top of the tire.  The fact that the trailing arm is mounted with a rubber mounting means that it can be pushed outboard. Hard to describe, but give it a go and the thing ought to pop right off.
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Garage / Re: S1 336-08 Transaxle LEAK!!!!!!!!!!
« Last post by My S1 on Today at 09:10:30 AM »
John,  once again  you have scared the hell out of me. 

The transaxle feels and sounds wonderful especially after refilling with the Redline MT-90.  Only problem that I can detect (other than the drip) is that the 3rd gear synchros are definitely heading south.

I will do as you say and monitor the leak closely and keep it topped up.  It had a very slow leak since I got it in '23 with the black, thick old oil.  I timidly assumed it was just the fill nut and put a pan under it but after those 2-1/2 years I only got about a couple of oz of leakage.  After changing out the fluid I now have a considerable drip, though I just noticed this morning that it slowed substantially.

You say so casually;  "Next pull the half shaft out of the way."  What exactly is the proper cadence for removing the whole corner, trailing arm and all?  I think I'll restore the whole suspension next.  Are there any disastrous screw ups that I should avoid? Will all the members drop and crack the hell out of the paper thin belly pan that I so carefully restored?

Many Thanks.

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FS/WTB: Europa Parts and Stuff / Re: WTB - Wheel(s)
« Last post by ivygreen on Today at 08:41:27 AM »
Got it, JB. Thank you.
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Garage / Re: Liners R18 fit R16?
« Last post by jbcollier on Today at 07:50:06 AM »
Early liners (all original Europa engines) use paper shims under the liner to adjust liner height and seal the bottom of the liner.  Later liners used o-rings.  You can modify an early block totake later liners but it will require expert machining of the block and liners.  Not worth the triuble and expense as the proper parts are available for both applications and both applications work well if assembled properly.
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