Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: Steve_Lindford on Friday,January 13, 2017, 03:25:03 AM
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My TC has slightly modified chassis at the rear when previous owner replaced 336 gearbox with 352. Can anyone confirm from the photos that I will be able to simply pull it back and remove it without sliding the engine forward - as there doesn't seem to be much space. I am replacing all the seals as I have leaks everywhere. I will take the opportunity to improve the linkage and maybe do other jobs as access gets better with the gearbox out.
The pic of the linkage roll pin is as found - and can't be punched out easily perpendicularly from the top - if at all. I may have to pull it out somehow. Not looking forward to that.
Steve
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I had to tip the gearbox down to get it out. This causes the rubber hose from the water pump to the long steel tube to come off, so you might as well loosen the clips on that hose before it rips apart.
Getting the gearbox out is easier than getting the gearbox back in. Getting the last 1" to mate up can be a challenge.
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I hadn't thought about the rear hose - thanks for that. I hadn't realised the engine would tip enough to allow the gearbox to move that much. It has taken me nearly 3 hours to split the exhaust today.
Do you think that tipping the gearbox down will allow me to punch out that roll pin. At the moment I haven,t worked out how to get that out. I know the book says remove the pin first but I'm wondering if I disconnect the linkage from the side of the gearbox it might give me enough play to lower it. If not I have to work out a way of pulling it out...
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I had a strange 7mm bolt through the gearchange. Where is the rollpin if it is not where the gearchange meets the rod in the extreme rear of he gearbox?
You can tip the gearbox down about 6"-9" without any problem, apart from the front water pump hose.
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I think a bolt would be easier to deal with.
The annoying thing is I plan to remove the whole linkage - I need to move the car forward as there is not enough room in the garage to pull it out the back - so I don't want to remove the drive shafts and bottom links before removing the rear pin if I can avoid it...
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Looks like there is enough of the pin showing to just grap it with visegrips and just pull/wiggle it out.
Sometimes if you can use a screwdriver and gently lever against the grips to force the pin out. Also depending on the pin type it can make a difference which side you grip on, try to make the grips compress the pin diameter.
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Thanks for that Blitzen - I tried that with mole grips but no luck. I was hoping I would see the pin compress as well - but the gap is incredibly small.
I may have another go - and get lucky...
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Your 352 gearbox is similar to my 365 rear linkage. I managed to remove my roll pin using a punch from the top. There was just enough space between the body and rear support hoop to get a punch in. Having a long punch will help immensely.
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Good job! Nice to have a nice long punch like that sometimes. I don't but usually I can get away with using a socket extension with a punch.
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The punch I used was just barely adequate. Having one a couple of inches longer would have been better for the job. You need a punch with the shaft section able to clear the rear tranny hoop.
I forgot to add that having the shift shaft at the rear of the tranny as far rearward as possible helps tremendously: have the tranny in either first or third gear.
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For some strange reason the rear hoop is smack above the roll pin as shown below. So maybe my engine is not in the right place either.
I have tried clamping mole grips and knocking the grips from above but they slide down. I think the only option is to undo the linkage pivot on the clutch housing and lower the gearbox as much as possible to gain more access. If I cant punch it out in that position I might have to get a special puller made - to push it out...
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Can't you disconnect the rear gearbox mounting, and tip the gearbox down to get better access to get a long thin drift in to knock the roll pin down or even up?
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Actually I think I might have been a bit stupid - the manual says put the gearbox in fourth to get best access - I did that and forgot about it - but it seems likely if I put it in 3rd I get a reasonably good view straight down from the top. Will let you know - annoyingly I'm not sure I have a drift...
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4" nail with the point ground off ?
I can hear the cries now.... :-[
Seriously, a suitably sized nail or a length of 6mm rod ground down over the last inch or so on a bench grinder should get that out.
Brian
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OK - managed to get the roll pin out with a punch- but it was hard work and not pleasant. I had to give up on what I thought was the correct weight of hammer - and use a heavy club hammer. I was actually quite worried about the stress damaging the gearbox casing.
Turns out the roll pin was home made - probably folded round a drill bit, squashed in the vice and hammered round - then filed afterwards. Covered with imperfections - not what I was expecting...
Steve
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I too am resealing my tc 365 trans it came apart pretty easily. New seals & O-rings from RD.
I installed the the new O-rings but they don't seam like they are sealing any thing?
Any ideas here?
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FYI I pick a nice 6 pc extra long punch set yesterday at Sear a craftsman made in USA not China junk for $20
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I too am resealing my tc 365 trans it came apart pretty easily. New seals & O-rings from RD.
I installed the the new O-rings but they don't seam like they are sealing any thing?
Any ideas here?
Can you tell where the leak is coming from?
Did you seal the threads of the finned nut?
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both axles are leaking pretty bad I think the seal are bad. I am replacing everything seals O-rings but the O-rings don't seam like they are going the do much?
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without a diagram it is a bit tricky to describe.
The oil seals seal to the outside of the output shaft that are roll pinned onto the shaft. as these output shafts are only held on by the roll pins there is a route for the gearbox oil to seep along the splines. The o-ring seals this part of the shaft to stop this happening
hope this helps
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The o-ring goes on the output half-shaft then the seal ring goes in. You need to push (very) hard so that the o-ring pops into the o-ring groove in the seal ring.
http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/s1parts/f/f6.htm