New S1B owner

[314159td]

Just picked up this series 1 B, initially assuming it was a Series 2 for obvious (blinky) reasons. Originally titled in Texas as a 67 presumably for emissions and FMVSS seasons, went to New Mexico in the early 70s and last driven sometime in 78. Car #460553, and a dead ringer for a RHD to LHD conversion. We've got a poorly cut column hole, column controls on the wrong sides, wiper biased the wrong way, etc. Pinstriping is just stuck on, but I like the look. I don't think this is anything special from the factory as there's a fairly obvious seam in the front trunk from the later front end being put in.

Believe it or not, the front frame member seems to be fine. Absolutely has some cosmetic rust, but all of the typical spots near the top corners and joints are fine from a quick look with the phone camera and screwdriver prod. Original 1470 engine per the VIN plate, I purchased the car without the head installed but rebuilt. Original Solex has been replaced by a weber 28/36 DCD, which seems like it's a reasonable enough swap.

 I'm curious how long these Renault engines can go without a rebuild, I figure with 5 main bearings 60k miles is a bit soon? The cylinders seem to still be in spec without ridges.

Currently, I've ripped out the original sound deadening and have discovered an unholy amount of oily mud, mostly on the passenger side. Seems like an oil change gone wrong, or someone decided to test if a fiberglass car would float like a boat. I'll need to spend another day cleaning it up with stronger degreaser, and I'm still researching the best way to sound deaden. Current plan is the standard butyl mats on the backsides of the seats and as deep as I can get into the side cavities, and then I was thinking of filling the empty space with rockwool sealed in plastic bags?

I have some specific parts questions/requests that I'll post later in the correct sub forums (flywheel cover, individual pan gaskets, front shocks) but I am most urgently trying to get ahold of formed side windows, either split as appropriate for a 1B, or the full single-piece. I'd like to get the whole car sealed up and take down the temporary carport it's currently under. I'm waiting for a reply from Banks Europa, but if anybody has a pair kicking around stateside I'd be happy to purchase and get them shipped to me in SoCal. 

[Chuck Nukem]

Welcome! Congrats on the car! You are going to have fun with that one!

[TurboFource]

 

[BDA]

  314159td!!

I assume you contacted Banks via email in which case I would advise you to phone them. If you’re trying to contact the parts side (Lotus Supplies), that is a hit or miss proposition in my experience. If you’re trying to contact Richard, a phone call is the only way I’ve ever been able to reach him.

I’m looking forward to seeing more pictures and learning about your progress!

[SwiftDB4]

I used more modern insulation like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14620?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAqNSsBhAvEiwAn_tmxZi21v2nk_9AbHGncB_84ceyBQBkBBl88XcILHyhEitLm88d3GR0BRoCwiwQAvD_BwE

[jbcollier]

As per your other post, try Kelvedon for the one piece windows.  Failing that, they are not hard to make up using lexan from a hardware store.

The engines are fairly tough except for:

- piston rings breaking due to the high revs they are subjected to.

- minor coolant leaks leading to a blown head gasket

- the head being removed incorrectly -- doesn't anyone read the manual? -- and the liner base seals getting torn.


Your headless state is the most common way to find an abandoned, Renault-powered, Europa.  It starts with a coolant leak.  That leads to overheating and a blown head gasket/warped head.  They then pull the head without reading the manual and tear the cylinder liner bottom seals.  It immediately overheats again.  Head off and parked.  This probably a good thing as they also didn't have the head alignment tool and the distributor drive gear would have lunched itself in short order.  All comes from "handy" people who don't read manuals.

All the S1s were LHD.  A few 47s (S1 based) were RHD.  Wiper position is correct.  The single wiper actually works very well for the driver, not so great for the passenger.  "Reversed" column switches, again normal.  Unfortunately, the gawd-awful, hacked-up, hole for the column is not.  The only thing I can think of is that a real ham-fisted person tried to remove the steering rack/column and chiselled the chassis out for more clearance.  You can remove the rack and repair that.

I would go over the chassis one more time with cameras and ice picks to be sure.  Then get a computer alignment to be doubly sure the chassis is straight.  All good?  Pump the chassis full of semi-fluid, rust inhibitor.

Hmm, sound deadening.  The S1s, unlike the other Europas, have two reverse-fugle-horn chambers one either side of the passenger compartment.  This makes things loud, very loud.  I used sound-deadening (the good stuff) on either side of the firewall (three layers on the engine side, one inside) and, frankly, all to virtually no effect.  You could fill these chambers with expanding foam (careful or you will split the body in two) but do you want to make it even MORE flammable?  I don't think so.

It is what it is.  Can't stand it?  Get an S2.  I do lots of long trips in my S1.  I use aviation, noise-cancelling, headsets (with an intercom system when there's a passenger.

[dakazman]

   
 
    314159td
 
    Glad you found your way here!
  Dakazman

[314159td]

Thanks for the welcome everyone, I have some new things to research now.

Head was removed as the "interim" owner I bought it from (had it for ~1 year) noticed a slight head gasket failure during his initial starting attempts, it ultimately needed to be skimmed ~0.004" to clean that up. Haven't done the math for how much that will raise CR yet, and we can only get 91AKI or $10/gal 100 race gas here.

Intuition and some light googling indicates that layering butyl mats might not be too beneficial, as those are to stop panels from vibrating, not truly "absorbing" the sound. Definitely some diminishing returns there. I'll probably go down the rabbit hole of researching decoupling foam and mass loaded vinyl...and heat shielding...inside the engine bay.

I don't mind fairly loud cars, but I have a good opportunity right now with things removed to try and do the best job I can should that opinion change.

[dakazman]

  You may also check into buying piston liner gaskets and an alignment tool for putting the head back on.
  Complete gasket set also since you’ll be pulling the oil pan to remove pistons.
 Maybe a set of hold down clamps for when you reassemble.
Probably easier to remove engine and gearbox.
Dakazman

[S2Zetec54]

  and the very best of luck with your rebuild

[314159td]

  You may also check into buying piston liner gaskets and an alignment tool for putting the head back on.
  Complete gasket set also since you’ll be pulling the oil pan to remove pistons.

I'm going to see if I can run a test of filling up the block coolant passages with water or something inert, and leave that for a few days to see if the level drops. No signs currently point to a damaged base gasket. I'm making the alignment tools at work this week based on some numbers I've found on this forum.

[SwiftDB4]

Unless you clamp down the liners you won't get an accurate picture of leakage. Even then an actual cylinder head is probably the only really accurate way to gauge that.

[314159td]

Of course, without the liners clamped down this represents a not ideal scenario for the base gaskets but will yield some data. If they leak in this state with just 3 inches of water (0.1 PSI or so) they'll probably leak in operation. I've spent the last 6 months at work testing paper, cork rubber, and RTV gasket seals and the game for that whole thing is knocking out the easiest tests first, even if they aren't 100% representative.

Once the head is on it'll get the proper pressure decay leak test.

[jbcollier]

Check your cylinder protrusions as per manual.  If they are off, then you're lifting the cylinders to fix it regardless.

[314159td]

I've had a few inches of water sitting at the same marked level in the water jacket for a week now, no signs of water dripping into the oil. Cylinder protrusions range from just under 5 to about 8.5 thou, sweeping in a slope from clutch to timing chain side. I think that's slightly out of book tolerance, but there isn't any evidence of the kind of failure that would cause on the old gasket. All the proper head alignment tools have been acquired...much to the disapproval of my bank account.

Just got the gas tank and heater box back from powdercoat, I really didn't want to deal with digging the heater core out ever again and these tanks seem to be impossible to find. I've made a CAD model of a mirror image tank to fit the spot on the left side, or maybe I'll just make a box to hold a NATO style gas can. Crossover pipes are annoying.