Lotus Europa Forums > Garage
Freeing up potentially rusted piston rings to cylinder
Bryan Boyle:
--- Quote from: Richard48Y on Wednesday,April 10, 2024, 07:52:21 PM ---I once freed a Jag XK120 that had sat for decades using a 50/50 mix of MM Oil and Diesel.
I expect there are a lot of mixes that would work.
--- End quote ---
I'd agree; diesel is an oil (versus solvent, such as acetone or gasoline) and has a lower vapor pressure, so will remain on the surface longer than acetone.
A long-time colleague of mine (inventor of CamGuard, which is an approved additive for aircraft engines) modified the formula and has an automotive oil additive..I know, some think it's snake oil, but he was a lube scientist at one of the big 3 oil companies, (it's based on the additives that most blenders such as Castrol etc use) that does a good job, when the engine is operating, keeping the rings free and grooves in the pistons clean. Also has seal softeners that help keep natural and common polymer seals flexible...just a thought when/if you get the mill turning again, Joji.
Grumblebuns:
I remembered that I bought a borescope a while back and used it to look down the the cylinders. That borescope is an amazing piece of equipment. #1  pistons were on the bottom and #2  near the top. #1  pistons looked amazingly clean and carbon free and the bores free of rust. #2  were at the top and the camera couldn't focus close enough to get a clear picture. I feel comfortable enough to just use WD-40 initially and let it soak for a week or so, then attempt to rotate the crank. If unsuccessful, regroup. Thanks for the suggestions.
EuropaTC:
--- Quote from: Grumblebuns on Thursday,April 11, 2024, 04:43:12 PM ---I feel comfortable enough to just use WD-40 initially and let it soak for a week or so, then attempt to rotate the crank. If unsuccessful, regroup. Thanks for the suggestions.
--- End quote ---
Hi again,
This isn't nit-picking because I get why you'd use WD40 and I can't see why it shouldn't work, but I'd advise to top it up with a quick squirt every day or so.
Many years ago our maintenance guys loved the stuff and were forever spraying it around because "it lubricates great". One of my colleagues was very skeptical and so did an experiment to find just how much lubricant was there and how much of it was volatiles to get the aerosol spray to work. A row of test tubes of different brands with a marked measure in each, left on his office window sill for a week... (we did high tech stuff back then ;) )
The result was surprising, before the end of the week the levels had dropped dramatically and he was right, there was very little left because most of it evapourated away. In defense of WD40 I don't think it was the worst but even so I remember every tube was almost empty.
Brian
Richard48Y:
Yes, over time WD-40 becomes a near solid when the solvents evaporate.
Many gunsmith's hate it.
PB Blaster is a common replacement these days, not sure what the silicone content does.
4129R:
I had an engine that I had rebuilt, and after it was not used for a long time, it was near impossible to turn over with a long extension lead on a socket on the crank pulley bolt (5/8" I think).
I used a mixture of WD40 and engine oil, left it for 2 days, and gradually it freed up by turning the nut on the crank pulley.
I bought a new high torque starter motor, and eventually the pistons were free enough to turn over with the starter motor.
But, this was a rebuilt engine so I knew there was no blown head gasket/water leak problem, it was just condensation of air in the bores which caused it to partially seize.
It did start, smoked a bit as it burned off all the oil in the bores, but now starts and runs with no apparent problem.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version