Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Members Cars => Topic started by: spike_tt on Monday,July 26, 2021, 12:38:15 AM
-
:newhere:
My wife has christened her 'Lottie' and she joined the family on Thursday.
Not roadworthy at the moment as she has some issues.
- No brakes at all. PO suggested leaking brake servo.
- Very difficult to select gears. PO didn't mention this but judging by invoices there seem to have been several attempts to rectify it in the recent past.
- Various small electrical issues.
So plenty to keep me occupied :)
-
:Welcome:
-
Looks like a real beauty. Welcome to the forum. The brain trust here is outstanding and very willing to help. Good luck getting her going.
-
She looks like a really good platform for a restoration! Keep us informed about your progress!
-
Welcome, Spike. Very nice looking Europa. Good luck getting her sorted, lots of advice on the forum if/when needed. Cheers :beerchug:
-
I had to change the clutch pressure plate to cure my gear selection problem. It took me ages to find the problem. Now no problems at all.
A sloppy gear linkage is the other possibility.
-
I had to change the clutch pressure plate to cure my gear selection problem. It took me ages to find the problem. Now no problems at all.
A sloppy gear linkage is the other possibility.
Thanks for that. All the work that's been done so far attempting to resolve the gear selection problem has been to the gear linkage. I see a lot of new shiny parts there!
I did wonder about the clutch. Can I rule out the gearbox itself as the culprit? I'd really like to do that!
But... another comment from OP was... "Pre load on diff bearings needs adjusting"
-
You could disconnect the shift linage at the tranny and try to move the selector shaft by hand (this may be best done while someone pushes on the clutch pedal). You should be able to all your gears that way.
I think the linkage is the most likely culprit. Start at the gear shift lever and eliminate any slop. Adjustment is also important.
You should adjust your diff bearings before you go very far. Somewhere on this forum, there are some instructions on how to do it. You'll need a diff wrench. One can be made from a PVC pipe terminator. Don't try to turn it by hitting the ears with anything because they will break off.
-
:Welcome:
Love the car…good luck
-
But... another comment from OP was... "Pre load on diff bearings needs adjusting"
Be careful here.
If the PO means the output shafts need re-shimming, that can be done easily.
If he actually means the diff pre-load, that's a gearbox out situation.
Are you still in touch with the PO?
-
No longer in touch with the PO.
I just read through the recent invoices again and found "Investigate play in driveshafts, undo driveshafts from output shafts, correct shims already fitted, play appears to be in transmission, refit driveshafts".
So that's a gearbox out job then I suppose.
-
Wow, I just found the "Lotus Europa Twin Cam Gear Shifter Challenge" (http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/transmission/tc_shifter.html)
What a resource! Now I'm itching to get out and start working through it. Sadly, I have other work that actually pays the bills which is more pressing :(
-
Do not drive the car until you sort the transaxle. You will have to pull and disassemble the transaxle. You need to check that the diff is properly shimmed first and then set the diff bearing preload and ring/pinion play correctly.
-
Thanks for the warning jbcollier. That's probably a job I'll have outsource when the time comes.
Right now just getting the car in and out of the garage is a pain when it's so tough to find a gear.
-
When the gearbox in out, change the clutch pressure plate and driven plate. You won't regret it.
-
Hello spike_tt,
:Welcome:
Mark
-
What is the difference with a new clutch pressure plate and driven plate?? - just not worn out??
Steve
-
All the surfaces in a clutch system wear: flywheel face, pressure plate face, friction disc, pressure plate pivots and spring mounts. Diaphragm and coil springs fatigue. In some systems, splines can wear as well. I like to: change the pilot bearing/bushing, reface the flywheel, very lightly lube the splines, repair/lube release mech, and fit new disc, pressure plate and release bearing.
Clutches can also be rebuilt though this is more common in HD truck applications. A rebuilder will check the splines, replace the friction material, test/replace torsion springs in the drive plate, and, resurface the pressure plate, rebuild the pressure plate's springs/diaphragm as required.
I have fit 100s of new clutches in my 35 years pulling wrenches and I have had one or two "bad" new clutches -- usually dragging due to warped spring mech or plate. I have also fit maybe 10 or so "rebuilt" clutches. They, unfortunately, had a much higher failure rate with two or three of them being duds.
YMMV
-
The fingers on my pressure plate wore badly.
Before replacement gearchange was virtually impossible. After changing it gearchange was normal.
-
Addressing the first job on my recent acquisition.
The car has no brake action at all. Recent checklist from PO indicated "Brake Servo?"
So I decided to get the servo refurbished. I was wondering... how will I tell whether the servo is really leaking brake fluid? Maybe the problem is somewhere else?
Well, here's the servo after I removed it. I think that's quite conclusive.
I see many people just remove the servo. I think I'll get this one refurbished, I can always remove it at a later date if I decide that's a better solution.
I must ask though, if you've removed your servo, when the insurance company ask if the vehicle has been modified in anyway, what do you reply?
-
I bought replacement servos, rather than repair the very old original ones.
They cost me about £70ish.
Not worth risking an argument with the insurers. Every original photo of a Europa engine compartment will show 1 or 2 servos.
-
Servos were optional in the UK/rest-of-world but OEM in later US bound Europas.
If you fit aftermarket brakes I think it behooves you to let your insurer know. Fitting a variation on the stock system is a different matter. Are you going to let your insurer know if you fit EBC Greenstuff pads? Grooved discs? Of course not, this is just regular servicing. As the servo was optional, it’s not a significant change if it is now not there as the brake system can still said to be “stock”.
-
4129R, may I ask what new servos you bought?
Mine has clearly been refurbished at least once already so it's not a permanent solution.
-
The boxes are marked SEN43/LE72696.
I am fairly sure they came from a classic MGB supply company.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383217986237?hash=item5939926abd:g:Y30AAMXQMXRQ8EXB
At £69.95, I was only 5p out !!!
I had to modify the existing mounting bracket by flattening it in a vice, drilling new holes and bending, but otherwise it is a straight fit, with the same pipe connections.
.
-
Thanks for that heads-up. Refurb of the Girling unit costs about £300 !
-
If it gets to that point for me, I'll just bypass the servo (link the brake lines) and try the pedal. It may need a replacement master cylinder if you feel pedal pressures are too high anyway.
If you take it for an MOT without the servo fitted (I know we don't need to any more) and it passes, and you let the insurance company know you "removed the optional servo" and that it has since passed the MOT I dont see how they can argue that it's not road legal/safe. If you don't tell them and make a claim they might (probably would) be difficult if you haven't told them. If you have an agreed value policy then they may have engine bay pictures with the servo fitted too.
-
For £70 to replace with new, I cannot see the problem.
-
I see the listing says it needs to be mounted at an angle "like the original" - on an MGB I assume. Do the instructions say what angle it needs to be mounted at? Do you know if the assistance factor (1.65?) is similar to the original.
-
I see the listing says it needs to be mounted at an angle "like the original" - on an MGB I assume. Do the instructions say what angle it needs to be mounted at? Do you know if the assistance factor (1.65?) is similar to the original.
I picked up this instruction sheet which gives cross references & assistance ratios. It also has an application list which might help in sorting out which one you get. The original is too big for a forum attachment so I've split it into 2 files, the first is fitting & the second is applications.
When I had a servo I replaced with an MGB one and I'd guess it was a higher ratio than the OEM Girling. No problems at MoT time but I suppose it was easier to lock up in the wet in a panic stop ?
Brian
-
Those installation instructions show the mysterious "P" metal bracket someone had left over after assembling their car.