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Never a straight line

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Grumblebuns:
Yikes, your modifications do complicate the problem. Interested to see how this turns out.

BDA:
In order to monkey with the tranny selector shaft, I had to take the oil cooler with part of the duct work out so if I have to yank the tranny out, I'm a LITTLE further down the road. I also took a look at the linkage and there doesn't seem to be anything obviously wrong with it (nothing is broken, bent or loose.

Just another episode in the soap opera that is my Europa! I'll keep you informed with my progress.

BDA:
Well, I'm just having more fun than a barrel of monkeys! I went to replace the brake fluid last night. I opened up a bleed valve and pushed the brake pedal but the pedal didn't come back up... Strange... I'd never seen or heard of anything like that. It worried me so I checked around and I've decided that the master cylinder needs to be rebuilt.

 In my youth, I've rebuilt several master cylinders and for whatever reason, I was successful only half the time. I called Dave Bean and they have them at $380 + core. Ray at r.d. enterprises only had rebuild kits but he pointed me to some rebuild shops (Apple Hydraulics, Stainless Steel Brake Corp., and White Post Restorations). White Post is in Virginia so it's pretty close to me. They will rebuild my master cylinder for $225 so I'll be sending it to them along with the rear calipers since those were used when I got them (I have four wheel disks).

Anyway, I thought the information about the restoration shops might be useful to someone and I might also provide some entertainment for others who enjoy hearing about other people's problems  ;).

Grumblebuns:
I was at the same decision point on brake master cylinders as you a couple of years ago. When a new seal kit wouldn't get brake pressure back,  had to decide between a re-sleeve or replacement of the MC. Not wanting to deal with the frustrations of dealing with a possible bad re-sleeve job, I decided to go with replacement.  What DBE offers is probably a refurbished, re-sleeved stock MC, thus the core requirements.

Did a bit of research in the knowledge base to see what other people had done. The predominant swap was to use the F10 MC. Unfortunately the F10 MC is almost impossible to find nowadays anywhere. A bit more searching turned up the MC from the Ford Courier which I used. If I had to do it all over again, I would have gone with the Spitfire MC at least for the S2. For the TCS with working boosters, I would get mine re-sleeved or find an original working Girling.

BDA:
You're right about DBE's cylinder. Their's is re-sleeved as you expected. It sounds like they got a company similar to White Post to re-sleeve some cylinders for them. White Post claims the result is better than new and gives a written lifetime warranty.

I was a little surprised that this would be a problem. The cylinder is not original to the car. I bought it new probably twenty years ago and it's been on the car for about fifteen - very little use unfortunately.

I was aware of the F10 swap - but not aware they were also hard to find. One thing I'm not interested in fooling with is a plumbing change so getting mine re-sleeved is an added benefit and the one week turnaround is very reasonable. Also, I still use boosters.

White Post claims to rebuild boosters for any car. I hope it's true and I hope I don't need that too! (I upgraded to the Lockheed replacements so hopefully they have a lot of life left in them.

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