Engine Stop running after about 3 minutes

[jbcollier]

Carbs are a mess.  You can see the choke cable just hanging.  Probably just needs a good going over and set up.  If you have never worked on Stromberg before, and you are not a mechanical genius, I would recommend taking them to someone who is experienced on them.

[jrnicl5]

Hello Dilkris,

Quote: "So, this time I increase the fuel flow from the accelerator cable area and started the car right away."
What does this mean? Sorry, please explain exactly what you did - did you just increase the idle speed by adjusting the accelerator cable at the carburetor linkage? -> yes, this is correct.

[4129R]

It seems from the evidence that in the 3 minutes of running either something gets hot and jams or stops working, or the fuel runs out.

If there is fuel in both carburetor float chambers, and the two pistons go up and down freely, that would seem to eliminate the fuel starvation.

Could the electronic ignition pack overheat, if the coil is working sufficiently to ignite the fuel in the combustion chamber?

[jrnicl5]

I checked both and they are just warm not hot at all.

[jrnicl5]

Hello Jbcollier,

Yeah.. please note that the car sat for 40 years and I am putting things back together as  I progress. Would you have a picture of the accelerator cable setup from your car to send me? I have not yet worked on this part too.  I changed all old rubber hoses, fuel tanks, coolant hoses/spark plugs. I need to work on the brakes, clutch cable, and exhaust system. Hopefully, that would be it!!!

Also,

I'm definitely not a mechanical genius. I am just actively starting to learn how to have this new toy running again and I plan to do everything myself, hence the purpose of this forum is to learn from others and to share with others. In the past, I replaced the wiring harness of a Porsche 944 turbo and did the timing belt /water pump replacement. I always fix my cars. I enjoy this journey and everyone's help and I am very appreciative of your time. I just have to keep going one step at a time. So far... so good! this is my hobby as painful as it will be. I love it!

[4129R]

When the engine cuts out, check to see the position of the slide pot thing with the needle in that slides up and down in the carburetor. Undo the black piston damper in the top to see where they are. If they are jammed they might free up when you undo the piston damper.

[jrnicl5]

Everything looks good there. I removed the black cap and the piston goes up and down. nothing stuck. I pushed the piston from bottom to top and released it. It dropped right away for both.

Also, How much oil should be in that area where you close the top black cap?

[Richard48Y]

Strombergs are very simple.
Four screws to remove the top of the vacuum chamber and look to verify that the diaphrams are intact.
There is some argument over which oil to use in the dampers.
Some swear by Marvel Mystery oil, others insist on engine oil, I believe there is a specific SU/Stromberg oil available as well.
Pistons and dampers are unlikely to be why your engine dies after a few minutes, but sticking floats or needles might be.
After sitting so long I would be very suspicious of floats and needles as the old gas turns to varnish and moisture corrodes aluminum.
No collapsing fuel lines or clogged filters?

If you still have points and coil ignition check the coil and condenser.
Condensors may also fail when they warm up and are cheap to replace.

[4129R]

Everything looks good there. I removed the black cap and the piston goes up and down. nothing stuck. I pushed the piston from bottom to top and released it. It dropped right away for both.

Also, How much oil should be in that area where you close the top black cap?

I used to put about half in the SUs. If you put too much in, it will overflow and burn off in the engine, causing no long term problem.

I used 3 in 1 oil in SUs, a light general purpose oil. Seemed to work fine.

[jbcollier]

Myself, I would either fit a set of Mikuni flat slides as per this link:

http://www.v-performance.com/products/air_fuel.html

(one lister has a thread on fitting them)

Or, I would completely overhaul them and fit adjustable dashpots.

If you just want to get them running, then take them off and fit new gaskets, needle and seats, diaphragms, and, most importantly, o-rings!  The o-rings in the float bowl are prone to leaking and they leak onto the distributer -- better yet is to fit solid float bowls that don't need the o-ring but they can be hard to find.  Set the float levels carefully at the upper end of the spec.  Dashpots only go one way so pay attention.  Use Dexron 2/3 automatic transmission oil in the dampers as that doesn't swell the diaphragms.

This is not an overhaul, just making sure you don't kill the car with an engine fire.

[Bainford]

better yet is to fit solid float bowls that don't need the o-ring but they can be hard to find. 

X2! I found one of mine leaking about a year after I bought the car. Scary to see fuel dripping onto the distributor. I replaced the o-rings every spring after that but still didn't trust them, so began searching for solid float bowls. Tough to find, but I eventually found a new pair at Dave Bean last summer. Highly recommended.

[jrnicl5]

I uploaded a recording of the Engine running and then stopped :

Cold start from this afternoon.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nnPg0kPtOFGLW-ygftpeilcmqsytLZGd/view?usp=sharing

[jrnicl5]

Any advice where to order the stromberg 175 cd2 rebuild kit?

I see so many places offering from $26 to $140.
Not sure which one to buy.

I’m in the US, Texas.

[jbcollier]

Are you going to keep the car?  Or, just fix it up and move it on?  Where are you located?  No use in recommending a US shop if you are in the UK.

[jbcollier]

Duh, spotted your location as I hit send...