New UK Member living in the US.

[BDA]

 I would probably try a helicoil or a timesert. Helicoil is the stock answer, but our own LotusJoe suggests that a timesert is even better if more expensive. I think both would make an acceptable repair. Both are available from Amazon.

Here is where they are discussed on this forum: http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=132.msg4713#msg4713

[EuropaTC]

I think I'd go helicoil myself and keep all the studs identical. There are better (?) alternatives out there but for that job a simple helicoil should be fine.

A larger stud would also work but you might need to drill the manifold for clearance, plus with me being lazy I don't want to be swapping spanner sizes when pulling it apart next time !

On the dashboard query I've never seen a diagram just for the transfer placing, but you should be ok by going from the driver's handbook ?  If you don't have one there are pdf copies on

http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm

Brian

[LotusJoe]

Another evening on the car and another issue- one of the studs for the manifold to head had been over tightened and as a result the threads have been stripped.
What's the fix? Helicoils or tap a larger hole for a larger stud?? It's the Renault aluminium head.

time sert
http://www.timesert.com/

[buzzer]

Personally I would helicoil. Have fitted quite a few now, easy fix. Amazon or eBay. I did 2 on the twincam head and a couple on the timing chain cover base plate.
Not used a Timesert but it looks like by the design you need to drill a larger pilot hole, so the risk of breaking into a waterway would be higher.
Either will do, just what you prefer.
Dave

[Paul_71]

Thanks for the helpful advice. I went with the Helicoils in the end and all is back to working state.

Another question related to the manifold nut/studs. I have the original cast manifold on the Renault engine. There is one lower nut which is really difficult turn with the manifold being too close to the stud. In fact it looks so tight that the nut cannot turn. Is there meant to be some kind of shoulder nut here?

I changed over to a weber carb at the weekend and finally got to get the motor running. It sounded great (with good oil pressure) and although still on a rolling chassis without the body. Certainly a step in the positive direction.

[BDA]

Congratulations on getting your motor running! That's a big step!

[Bart]

Hi Paul,

Good to meet you, I'm a brit living in Bethesa MD, what was an assignment turned into a new wife/life etc so here to stay now.

Good luck with your project, I've got myself into the same hole with a '74 TC and will be breathing life back into it starting in the spring of 17, till then I am drawing up lists of things to do and trying to figure what's needed vs. nice to have.

Anyhow have fun and good luck with the car.


Jon.

[Grumblebuns]

Another question related to the manifold nut/studs. I have the original cast manifold on the Renault engine. There is one lower nut which is really difficult turn with the manifold being too close to the stud. In fact it looks so tight that the nut cannot turn. Is there meant to be some kind of shoulder nut here?

If it's one of the two bottom middle studs (Pic 1), I can see why you're having problems. As far as I can see, you can't fit a socket to fit over the nut, the closeness of the manifold runners prevents proper fit (Pic 2). If you look at the parts manual for the S2, I believe there should be a long spacer for those two studs. This is the service manual quote on removing the exhaust manifold.

 
"If the exhaust manifold gasket is to be replaced at the same time -
Remove the manifold.
Undo the four nuts and washers and the two socket bolts and washers, retaining the manifold to the cylinder head. Carefully remove the manifold and the gasket"

I don't see how anyone can tighten the exhaust nut without an extension spacer for those two bottom studs. FYI, on 65/2501, the manifold is secured by a long threaded spacer nut for an internal allen head tool on those two positions.
Sorry on not giving you a solution on the problem.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, CA
       

[3929R]

Would a crow's foot fit?

[buzzer]

A sneaky ground down or slim open ended will probably fit. I'd replace with an allen or Torx bolt.

Dave

[jbcollier]

Hot Rod VWs to your rescue:

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13%2D43%2D6051%2DB

8 mm x 1.25 thread with a 11 mm external hex.

[Grumblebuns]

Would a crow's foot fit?

I've attached another photo showing how difficult it is to get any tool on the header nut. I estimate that there is just enough room to get a credit card between the nut and manifold runner. A lot of ingenuity by the OP will be required to get the nut off, some one managed to get on the first place.

[4129R]

Looks to me like there is a thick washer missing. Even a thin walled ring spanner would struggle to get in there.

[EuropaTC]

 

Assuming it's a standard part, I wonder how Renault managed it on a production line ?  When buzzer came along with an Allen bolt suggestion I thought that would crack it, but access looks awful.  Anything in the manuals about special tools or an extra long stud plus spacer tube ? 

Edit to add....   by any chance is it one of the studs here ?  Looks as if it goes externally once you've got the inlet manifold on, which at least would explain how Renault did it.

Apologies if it's wrong, I don't know much about renault engines so this is guessing......

[4129R]

I went down the Elise production line at Hethel in around 2002. It all looked very simple then. If you assemble it in the right order, it is much easier, but as with most cars, future maintenance gets zero thought in the design.

New cars have no way of checking or filling the gearbox oil. Most have to be filled through the speedo drive hole.

I think the longer stud must have been the original manifold fitment. Tightening that nut, even in the engine building workshop, would be difficult for anyone unless a specialist tool was used, and quite what it looked like is anyone's guess.

Alex in Norfolk.