Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: 69merc on Wednesday,February 09, 2022, 11:59:52 AM
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Just thought I would start a thread of my happenings with getting my 74 TCS back on the road. As I’ve lurked for years on this forum, I always gain knowledge and find it enjoyable to see other enthusiasts posts about the work they are doing on their Europas. I’m not good at documenting everything I do , but will do my best to update progress and ask a lot of questions. My goal is to get it back on the road …. not a nut and bolt restoration. The history of my purchase can be found in the following thread:
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1967.0
First was organizing the boxes of parts.
Next was a clean and polish of the body to see what I was working with. The original paint cleaned up nice….it shows some patina but I like it. I just finished a 67 mustang convertible and need a break from bodywork and paint.👍
The interior is in nice shape ( just cleaned it up). It does need a new windshield….if anyone has a lead on one of those unicorns, let me know👍
Took apart the reconditioned head ( circa 1980) to check it out. Lapped the valves and measured and installed new valve shims.
Bought a hyd press to redo the water pump.
Currently I’m assembling the engine in my basement … the St. Louis winters can be cold…. (new rings, bearings, and ball honed the cylinders).
Also, working on the front brakes (new rotors, pads, and hoses). Surprisingly the master cylinder and front calipers are in working order. I don’t plan on reinstalling the servos and will see how the brakes are before I make any decisions on the braking system.
While working on the front brakes I was pleasantly surprised to find adjustable Spax shocks. :beerchug:
I’ll do my best to keep posting.
Jim
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Sorry some of the pics came out sideways or upside down….I’ll do better next time 🤷♂️
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Image orientation isn't your fault. It's just confusing since camera manufacturers starting including EXIF information with an orientation field in JPEG files. Newer software often supports the orientation field, older software doesn't. And you never know what you're gonna get.
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Good luck and do try to keep us informed! As I'm sure you know, we love pictures - even if they're upside down! It gives us a chance to practice our handstands!
I'd advise you to test your shocks. Without having a shock dyno, there isn't a whole lot you can do but you can at least see if they all react similarly to a weight extending and compressing them. I had some Spax shocks that might have been about the same age as yours and were worn out. Some here have taken to rebuilding their shocks. That's not something I'd do but that's not at all to say that you shouldn't try. Also, I would try to get as much information about your shocks as you can from the Spax folks. When I was working with mine, they told me that adjusting them beyond their adjustment range (and there is no stop) would damage them. You should find a number stamped at the bottom of the shock tube I believe. Send that number to them and see what they can tell you. Here is the contact info for Spax: https://www.spaxperformance.com/classic-contact/.
FYI - in the end, I settled on Protech shcoks and have been very happy with them.
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Thank you BDA for the Spax info. I’m not holding my breath that they are still healthy shocks.
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Progress….. hope to start it next week :beerchug:
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Excellent!!! Be sure to keep us up to date with your progress!! :beerchug:
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8)
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Love seeing this...good going!
(And it looks like it buffed out real well. Can tell you from experience that, as some have mentioned, a good fiberglass paint job is very very expensive. Patina has its place in the car world...means the beast was used rather than sat in a museum!)
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Thanks for the support! :beerchug:
Brian - It does have patina, but still has some shine left for an original paint car.
Can’t wait to get it driving and let the original owner take it for a spin!
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It’s getting exciting now! Hoping to start it up tonight. Checked oil pressure, fuel system, and even bled the brakes this weekend. Had it on its own 4 feet for the first time in 40 years so I could turn it around and have the exhaust pointing out of my garage. Took some “glamour” shots while it was outside.
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Nice! I can hardly wait to get that point!
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That paint looks good for original!
You’ll be driving her soon! :beerchug:
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Luckily it had been stored indoors. It still has its chips and cracks.
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Luckily it had been stored indoors. It still has its chips and cracks.
What is it they say..."If you're not rubbing, you're not racing..."
Chips and cracks are like the laugh lines around a lady's eyes. They show she has been enjoying the trip so far...the ones in the center of the forehead...not so much. And just as attractive (IMHO, ok?)
Your gal has pointed her nose down the asphalt. She's accumulated battle scars. Adds character, IMHO.
(and having nut-and-bolted one of these things down to the 6 coats of hand-buffed high solids polyurethane...you end up afraid to drive the damn thing because you'll chip or scratch that $10K paint job, so it sits in the garage and goes out for ice cream with your honey once a week if it's lucky...that's no fun, in retrospect.)
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After it’s 40+ year hibernation, It’s alive! :trophy: After realizing that it wanted a little throttle to get going, it fired right up! :beerchug: Nothing scary happened which is the way I like it. Now to see if it will move and some fine tuning ( timing, carb fiddling). I wish I could post the video …. maybe YouTube ….
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Congratulations! :beerchug:
I’d love to see a video!
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https://youtu.be/zl4acq7NgE4
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She sounds pretty good for not running in 40 years! :BEER3:
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Exciting times! The Europa is looking good, and appears anxious to start making music.
Coincidentally, my garage also has a vintage Mustang keeping the Lotus company.
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It does have a new fancy Stebro muffler that came with this puzzle of parts that the original owner bought in the late 70s. Nothing fancy on the engine rebuild….new bearings, rings, checked over the head, rebuild carbs, new points, rotor, plugs, plug wires.
The Lotus is a new path for me….Ford/Mercury products mainly frequent the garage.
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It does have a new fancy Stebro muffler that came with this puzzle of parts that the original owner bought in the late 70s. Nothing fancy on the engine rebuild….new bearings, rings, checked over the head, rebuild carbs, new points, rotor, plugs, plug wires.
The Lotus is a new path for me….Ford/Mercury products mainly frequent the garage.
Well...you DO have bits of Ford in your Lotus...so, it's not so foreign. Nice job sounds just fine. Congratulations in order...now time to
'dial it in' as they say.
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Thanks Brian……you are correct about the Ford bits….I must not forget that :)
Yep….time to dial it in as you have been doing on yours :beerchug:
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I like that there is a Ford logo on my block….. 8)
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I like that there is a Ford logo on my block….. 8)
And Ford parts stickers on all sorts of items in my '98 Jag XJR. Even that engine is a Lincoln product albeit a bit more 'fettled' than when in detroit iron.
Strange, I'm a VW/GM owner IRL (apart from a sojourn into the Jag world...). Never owned a whole Ford product in my 50 years of driving.
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Progress…..it now moves under its own power! Finished fiddling with the engine (timing and carb adjustments ). Adjusted clutch and checked some gears while while up in the air. Very pleased so far.
Here is a video of it actually moving !
https://youtu.be/JRPzuf6u8h0
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Congratulations, 69merc!!! That's a proud moment! She'll be a lot of fun!
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A feel good moment!...I like the Mustang too!
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Nice!
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Wow! She looks and sounds great. Just wait until you take her around a corner with aggression. Cornering better than the majority of cars of its era. I personally find the height if the Fed. spec cars off putting. Ready for take off. I also like the Stang under its protection.
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Wow! She looks and sounds great. Just wait until you take her around a corner with aggression. Cornering better than the majority of cars of its era. I personally find the height if the Fed. spec cars off putting. Ready for take off. I also like the Stang under its protection.
front height easily rectified to get around the stupid headlight height regs some drone in an office came up with. Do it on all the cars I have had, and will get a Round Tuit on 3291R after going through the clutch replacement. Have the springs, pick up some new Spax for the front (along with a handful of bushings, etc) and it will sit properly.
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Yeah….can’t wait to actually drive it and see how it handles ( need to get some tires that weren’t made in 1974 :confused: ) I also find the front end height off putting and plan on lowering it some. Here are a couple of pics of the Mustang that some of you commented on…..I finished the bodywork and paint on that last spring. ( you can see the Europa waiting its turn in the pics :pirate:
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You do very nice work!
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Nice looking ‘67!
Where’s the ‘69 Mercury?
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Thanks….bodywork and paint just take a lot of time and patience.
The Europa is nice change of pace….no bodywork or paint, just mechanical rejuvenation.
Here’s the 69 Merc ….. and my truck….
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8) and 8)
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Progress……new tires, restored the cosmics, new gas struts for the “rear” hood, and best of all I’ve been making laps around the neighborhood :beerchug:
Took a few laps to get comfortable with the tight foot box and shifting pattern ( very wide H ), but once you understand how it wants to be shifted , it’s very normal.
And surprisingly no oil leaks….yet…..its only been a few miles :beerchug:
Next up is installing the new windshield and bringing the nose down.
Its been a fun journey so far….
:beerchug:
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Congratulations on your laps and no oil leaks! Wheels look great too!
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Thanks BDA! I could have spent a lot more time on the wheels, but the cars body is not being restored so I didn’t feel the need to make them “perfect “….
But they are a definite improvement from the as found condition….
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Congrats on a successful shake-down run. Your Europa is looking good. Cheers :beerchug:
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Cracked windshield out…..
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Are you going to install your new windshield yourself?
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69 Merc, I Like your CRUCK and excellent job on the paint👍👍
Looking forward to your progress.
Dakazman
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BDA - yep, came out easy. Didn’t ruin the trim. Butyl coming Tuesday. Bought some glass suction cup holders from harbor freight ( I was a bit leary of them holding my EXPENSIVE windshield, but I tested them on the old windshield and they worked very well). Seems like a straight forward install and I’m going to put the trim on first and install it as one piece.
Dakazman - thanks for the compliments! My cruck is kinda like the Europa ( don’t see many of them and they are unique!).
My opinion on garage bodywork and paint jobs is that it takes a LOT of patience and a lot of work after the paint is sprayed to make them look nice.
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Asking purely as someone who one day in the future might need to know how easy it is, could you do a write up with pictures of how your windshield install goes? It was done here (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1704.msg32438#msg32438) but this post is from the perspective of someone watching it being done. It would be nice to have a write up from someone who did it. If you put it in the "Technical Articles" section, it might be easier to find for the next guy.
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BDA - yep, came out easy. Didn’t ruin the trim. Butyl coming Tuesday. Bought some glass suction cup holders from harbor freight ( I was a bit leary of them holding my EXPENSIVE windshield, but I tested them on the old windshield and they worked very well). Seems like a straight forward install and I’m going to put the trim on first and install it as one piece.
You can't do it any other way. Trim out the windshield first. It all goes in as a unit. Dry fit first to get it centered (both side to side and vertically; there should be 2 plastic blocks that sit in the lower channel to help align it top to bottom. painter tape across the windshield onto the body when you have it set, then score it. That will help you register it in the opening when you offer it up.
I'm going to question your use of butyl, though. The windshield provides a lot of strength to the body and butyl is a flexible medium which, as time goes on, looses its ability to hold the glass in place, which is why it's not used anymore in favor of urethane. Yes, it takes a few extra steps (priming the frit of the windshield to seal the edge as well as provide a UV barrier for the urethane), but the differences between the two are noticable after a couple years. Just my opinion (and experience having done both ways).
Dakazman - thanks for the compliments! My cruck is kinda like the Europa ( don’t see many of them and they are unique!).
My opinion on garage bodywork and paint jobs is that it takes a LOT of patience and a lot of work after the paint is sprayed to make them look nice.
Almost as much time after as the prep took before between 2000/3000/5000/compound/polish...shooting color takes 90 minutes.
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Dakazman - thanks for the compliments! My cruck is kinda like the Europa ( don’t see many of them and they are unique!).
My opinion on garage bodywork and paint jobs is that it takes a LOT of patience and a lot of work after the paint is sprayed to make them look nice.
Almost as much time after as the prep took before between 2000/3000/5000/compound/polish...shooting color takes 90 minutes.
Bryan?
Dakazman
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Bryan - I just figured I would use what was originally used in 1974 for installing the windshield. By the way, I am using your write up as a guide for installing a windshield :beerchug:
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Bryan?
Dakazman
You rang?
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Bryan - I just figured I would use what was originally used in 1974 for installing the windshield. By the way, I am using your write up as a guide for installing a windshield :beerchug:
Glad it's of some use.
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BDA - yep, came out easy. Didn’t ruin the trim. Butyl coming Tuesday.
Dakazman - thanks for the compliments! My cruck is kinda like the Europa ( don’t see many of them and they are unique!).
My opinion on garage bodywork and paint jobs is that it takes a LOT of patience and a lot of work after the paint is sprayed to make them look nice.
Almost as much time after as the prep took before between 2000/3000/5000/compound/polish...shooting color takes 90 minutes.
Bryan, Merc posted that paragraph. You then added , the next paragraph. Shooting paint 90 min?
Nibbling out and polishing out takes much longer and I agreed with Merc .
Dakazman
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Bryan, Merc posted that paragraph. You then added , the next paragraph. Shooting paint 90 min?
Nibbling out and polishing out takes much longer and I agreed with Merc .
Dakazman
Yeah, the europa body, assuming the 120+ hours of work to strip, straighten, prime, flatten, prime, pinhole patrol, prime, seal...takes a while.
Actually shooting color? Hour and a half, 2 tops.
Then another 40-80 hours wetsanding, buffing, etc. Color is the least of the jobs (assuming all the other ones are done properly.)
Just my experience.
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This CRUCK was garage painted also, as was my Europa. Started preparing my 2000 tiberon for paint today. The rust is eating from inside faster than I thought.
Painting only takes what I takes . Prep and polishing takes what the artist is will to do.
Dakazman
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Nice CRUCK! My first car was a 1970 El Camino….. I have a thing for CRUCKS ( Ford or Chevy)!
And I’m always impressed with garage body work and paint jobs :beerchug: :beerchug:
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Windshield in and I didn’t break it :beerchug: :beerchug:
Bryan’s windshield write up was correct….. it takes a lot of goop (butyl or urethane) to get the windshield to seal everywhere.
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:beerchug:
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Windshield in and I didn’t break it :beerchug: :beerchug:
Bryan’s windshield write up was correct….. it takes a lot of goop (butyl or urethane) to get the windshield to seal everywhere.
Occasionally, I get it right...lol. Good job!
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:beerchug:
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Merc, trophy: that's a milestone to surpass successfully, now you can breathe easily. Thank you for your post, as I am getting ready to put my windscreen in.
My first cruck was a 65 chevy and I love both models also.
Dakazman
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Thanks Dakazman! I followed Bryan’s write up: :beerchug:
http://www.lotuseuropa.us/0693r/journal/index.php?m=10&y=07&entry=entry071027-085014
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That seems to be similar to Hyundai procedure, but with some changes.
Make mating marks on the glass and body if the glass is to be reinstalled.
NOTE
Use chalk or equivalent to make mating marks on the glass and body.
Take out the windshield glass with special tool, Glass Holder.
Click for zoom window
Return to Main Menu(s): Mechanical Manual Electrical Manual
INSTALLATION
Using a cutter knife or the special tool, scrape the old sealant smoothly to a thickness of about 2 mm on the bonding surface around the entire windshield flange.
Click for zoom window
CAUTION
Be careful not to remove more adhesive than necessary, and also not to damage the paintwork on the body surface with the knife. If the paintwork is damaged, repair the damaged area with touch-up paint.
Clean the body flange surface of front windshield aperture with a sponge damped in solvent.
Click for zoom window
Clean (wipe out) completely the contaminants such as oil and dust in the primer applied part of body aperture.
After cleaning body aperture flange surface, pass a minute or more then, apply the primer to body.
Center a new windshield in the opening.
Mark the location by scribing lines across the glass and body with a grease pencil at the four points as shown.
Click for zoom window
Apply the primer to body aperture flange surface of windshield glass.
Click for zoom window
To use the primer, shake the vessel in ten minutes or more.
After application, It takes a day to dry the windshield glass. After passing a day, re-apply.
Clean the primer-applied parts of windshield glass.
Click for zoom window
Clean completely contaminants such as oil and dust in the primer-applied parts of windshield glass.
After cleaning the windshield glass, pass a minute or more and apply the primer to windshield glass.
Install the spacer in windshield glass with the body panel closed.
Click for zoom window
Adhere dam to windshield glass.
Click for zoom window
Adhere the dam at regular intervals in the edge of windshield glass.
Adhere the dam at 10 mm intervals from the lower edge of windshield glass.
Moulding installation in front windshield glass.
Click for zoom window
When working the moulding installation in front windshield glass, install the "A" part of moulding on the standard of "B" part of front windshield glass.
When inserting the moulding, be careful not to change the directions.
Primer application to windshield glass.
Click for zoom window
To use the primer, shake the primer vessel ten minutes or more.
After application, It takes a day to dry the windshield glass. After passing a day re-apply.
Apply sealant to windshield glass.
Click for zoom window
When the application shape, quantity and height of sealant are not regular.
If the sealant is sufficient: Appearance is inferior because that the sealants are flooded with inner surface.
If the sealant is deficient: Glass comes to separate and waterproof is inferior because of weak adhesion.
Install the glass to the body aperture of windshield glass.
Click for zoom window
After installing the windshield glass, adjust position.
Click for zoom window
After installing the windshield glass, wipe out foreign material on the windshield glass and body.
Click for zoom window
Perform the water-test for the windshield.
Use a cold water spray, being careful not to direct a powerful stream of water on the new adhesive material. Allow water to spill over the edges of the glass.
If there are leaks, apply sealant at the leak points.
Installation of the each trim parts is the reverse of the removal procedure.
CAUTION
Before operating wiper arm, solidify completely sealant.
\
Dakazman
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Finishing touches…..
Rear view mirror mounted.
Wipers installed.
Trunk installed ( added some extra heat shielding to the bottom).
Now more test runs and get it legal with some antique plates👍
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Looks like a pretty complete Europa, 69merc! :pirate:
Looking forward to its maiden legal drive!
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Been putting miles on it! Drives and tracks really well! The last thing I’ve thought of doing is lowering the front end. Now I’m having second thoughts because of it driving so well :confused:
My thought is to only lower it 2 to 3 inches but I don’t want to screw up the nice ride.
I know lowering (and how to lower) a TCS has been debated over many threads.
All thoughts and opinions are welcome :beerchug:
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Been putting miles on it! Drives and tracks really well! The last thing I’ve thought of doing is lowering the front end. Now I’m having second thoughts because of it driving so well :confused:
My thought is to only lower it 2 to 3 inches but I don’t want to screw up the nice ride.
I know lowering (and how to lower) a TCS has been debated over many threads.
All thoughts and opinions are welcome :beerchug:
The only lowering I'd consider (and going to do when I can get to RD for new bushings for the set of Spax shocks which I picked up along the way...complete with 1" shorter springs) is to euro stance so the fender line front to rear is level (and re-aim the headlights). That's my story, and I'm sticking to it...lol
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I would lower it to the specified ride height: 6" measured at the bottom of the chassis closing plate. That's going to lower it quite a bit.
It shouldn't hurt the ride quality. Remember the reason the front ride height was raised was for headlight (and bumper?) height regulations, not ride quality or handling. Keeping the same spring rates with shorter springs should give you very little change in either. Many of us have raised the spring rates, some substantially. A lot of that is personal preference. I currently have 250# front and 130# rear springs - about double the stock spring rates - and while it's certainly firm, it's not at all uncomfortable or harsh so I think there is a lot of latitude in spring rates and still be comfortable. I remember riding in a friend's stock Spitfire many years ago and was impressed with the harshness of the ride (and the tiny turning circle). I've never experienced either with a Europa!
I don't remember if you said your shocks have adjustable spring perches. That makes changing ride height a lot easier.
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Beware of speed bumps.
In the UK, local councils have a strange sense of humour. They put 20 MPH speed limits wherever they can, and put very annoying tarmac speed bumps in the road at regular intervals to annoy sports car drivers.
They use all the asphalt on these speed bumps so don't have enough to fill the potholes, which are another great way to slow cars down and annoy sports car drivers.
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It does have an old set of Spax shocks with adjustable perches. It is currently adjusted as low as possible. I’m thinking of starting the lowering process by cutting the springs and see how that works.
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It does have an old set of Spax shocks with adjustable perches. It is currently adjusted as low as possible. I’m thinking of starting the lowering process by cutting the springs and see how that works.
When I did my S2 (693R) back in the day...went slightly higher rate on shorter springs than OEM. Got the nose where it was designed to be (6" to the bottom of the closing plate) and never bottomed it out on the lousy PA/NJ roads for over 13 years of ownership. YMMV, of course, but for a road car, loosing the 1" or so is not a big deal (unless you've gone to oversize tires in the front...and hit a bump at full lock...in which case, you WILL hit your wheel arch...)
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Cars with flexible chassises (Spitfires) need stiff suspension to maintain any semblance of control. Lotus have stiff chassises and are quite happy on softer springing.
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'69, the front definitely needs to come down from that height!
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I’ve decided. It’s getting lowered. I’ve been spraying the suspension bolts for a few weeks now in anticipation…… tonight they all loosened up with ease :beerchug:
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You might consider these Protech dampers with springs, from SJSportscars: https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ074C0002.htm (https://www.sjsportscars.com/parts-and-accessories/SJ074C0002.htm)
It was easy to install them; adjustment was easy; I got them in the US in about 4 days, and shipping is very reasonable.
Here's a discussion of the setup that is worthwhile: http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1104.msg9195#msg9195 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1104.msg9195#msg9195)
I'm happy with them.
-Vince
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Stance :beerchug:
Cut about 3” off the springs.
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Nice.
How is your alignment now? Especially check your camber.
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Definitely looks better!
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Nice looking car 69Merc and now that you’ve leveled it I like even more. Mine has the same, level stance.
One of your pictures of the motor shows individual, chrome air cleaners for the Stromberg’s. Do you happen to remember the brand or where you got them? The only ones I found were by K & N and we’re pricey.
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Thanks!
They are Ram-flo brand from Australia.
https://www.lynxauto.com.au/ramflo-air-filters.html
They came with the car ( probably purchased in the late 70s) so not sure what they cost now.
I did buy new filter material for them.
I like them, but may put the stock air cleaner on. :confused:
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Thanks for the info! I will look into those.
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Your Europa is looking good. It sits very nicely.
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Thanks! I am a firm believer that stance can make or break a cool car :beerchug:
Before
After
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I may not be remembering correctly but your before picture looks a lot more nose-happy than they were originally. You made a big improvement. How does it drive? Did you measure the rate after you cut the springs? Did you do anything to the rear springs to balance the stiffer front springs?
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Yeah, I thought it sat higher in the front than an original stock TCS did. What I think happened was, the original owner put some adjustable SPAX shocks on it in the late 70s but used the original springs :confused:
Maybe this made it sit higher in the front than normal. When I took the springs off, they measured about 13”, and I cut them to about 9.5”. The adjustable spanner is all the way down, so I have room to raise the front if needed.
I drove it a bit last night and I noticed it tracked the same but seemed to have a better ride compared to when it sat higher. (I think the front was very stiff with the springs being compressed too much)
And didn’t notice any bottoming out when going over rough roads in the front.
I didn’t measure the spring rate before or after and did not adjust the rears at all.
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Thanks! I am a firm believer that stance can make or break a cool car :beerchug:
Before
After
Hope mine settles down where it belongs...but I have the 115 front springs from RD and spax...so it should go down to where it belongs.
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If it doesn't settle down I think you should cut another coil for the stance's sake..... ::)
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Made it to its first cars and coffee :beerchug:
The pictures don’t show it, but these cars draw a crowd :huh:
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Get used to it. People will stop in their tracks, ask to see you get in it, leave notes on the windshield… Very few cars draw the attention a Europa does and the ones that do cost 10 times what a Europa does.
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Made a couple of YouTube videos for funsies :beerchug:
https://youtu.be/NzRTArpaIs8
https://youtu.be/QulpTKVcoz8
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Nice videos of a nice car! She looks great, 69merc!!
Just a little FYI, your wheels are not Cosmics. They are Brand Lotus wheels. Still one of the prettiest wheel design IMHO!
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Nice!
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Thanks for the info on the wheels, I did not know that :beerchug:
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Just an FYI on the front alignment when I lowered the front end. Before I lowered it, the camber was 0 degrees. After I lowered it, the camber is now -1.5 degrees. The toe is neutral ( maybe a smidge toe in). Just some info if anyone wants to know how much camber gain can be expected from lowering the front end.
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Yeah, that's kind of a problem. The camber is supposed to be between 0 and +30'.
There are a couple of ways to fix that. Some have slotted the bottom A-arm holes and made sets of shims that fit neatly in the A-arm with holes that change the camber. Yeah, that sounds like a lot of work to me and fraught with the possibility for errors requiring you to do a lot of extra work! But then if you have the time and want the challenge...
On the other hand, you can buy adjustable upper A-arms. I have a set I got from Richard at Banks (now Lotus Supplies at https://www.lotus-supplies.com/parts/). If you go the route, make sure you get bushings with it. That will require you to take the upper suspension pivot pin out and all that entails. The upper ball joint screws in and out to adjust the camber. IIRC, Richard said a turn equates to 3/8° so you should be able to get a reasonable camber value that way. I don't know that Lotus Supplies is the only place to get such a thing so you might try some other places if the price is scary.
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Kelvedon carries them as well but I think they get them from Lotus Supplies.
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The Europa is looking good, and keeping good company. Cheers.
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It was interesting to see how Lotus kept some design ideas from the Europa on the front end of the Elise.
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Made a couple of YouTube videos for funsies :beerchug:
https://youtu.be/NzRTArpaIs8
https://youtu.be/QulpTKVcoz8
nice work.
Suggestion: get a can of silicone spray and treat the door window channel felts...your window motors will thank you! (It does make a difference, believe or not!)
Otherwise, good job. Enjoy the ride!
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Just some more YouTube content on my Europa revival story.
https://youtu.be/3CaFS1KLEMs
https://youtu.be/1qq6bRuz02c
https://youtu.be/_sE8_mokHkg
https://youtu.be/w8l86sstbEc
Enjoy :beerchug:
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Nice job!! I bet it's satisfying realizing you resurrected a neglected Europa and restoring it using most of its original pieces. She really came out very nicely! The wheels especially came out nicely! :beerchug:
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It’s very satisfying to get it back on the road. I feel lucky that I was able to use all the original parts.
That definitely kept the budget reasonable :beerchug:
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That and lots of your labour. Job well done and it is still largely original !!
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Yeah, I often forget about the cost of my own labor. It’s been enjoyable on this car. I think I’m going to put the original air cleaner assembly back on just because the car is so original.
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Enjoyed your videos! How do you like the car now that it is on the road?
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I’m really enjoying it (I’ve only put 100 miles on it so far). It’s soooo different than what I’m used to driving and working on (American v8 muscle cars). I’m getting more comfortable with it’s small size and the attention it draws.
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Representing at the St. Louis British Car show today! The more miles I’m putting on it the more I’m falling for this quirky little car :beerchug:
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Great job! You have to driver them to really appreciate them! :beerchug: