Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: Paul_71 on Wednesday,January 13, 2016, 12:12:29 AM
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Hello everyone,
Let me introduce myself. I am Paul, from the Uk and working in Chicago for a couple of years on an assignment. I've recently committed the deadly sin of buying a vehicle without seeing it and trusting the sellers description and pictures. It was a deal I could not turn down and the vehicle is being shipped later this week. It is a 1971 in original condition and has been stored for a number of years. No rust, engine turns over, etc...
I've been over in the US a year and spent the evenings restoring a 66 Mustang convertible and used the extensive supplier base over here to achieve a lovely looking and driving motor. The next challenge I wanted is for a British car without that vast network of suppliers and to rely more on my engineering skills to achieve the restoration.
I hope everyone doesn't mind, but I'm sure you'll be hearing from me in the near future if I am unable to find the answers to my questions on the net and to share my experiences.
Regards,
Paul
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Hi Paul,
Welcome to the forum, that sounds an interesting career move and I bet it's a great experience. As you'll no doubt have seen there's a lot of guys over in the US with these cars and some well respected US suppliers coming along these days. Ok, not as good as for a Mustang, but not bad for a dinky car made by a cottage industry in another country and never sold in great numbers to start with !
There's some impressive "can do" guys on this forum with great examples of their work, so you'll not go short of encouragement. When the car arrives don't forget to post up some photos and restoration plans......
Brian
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:Welcome: Paul_71!
Good luck with the sale!
I echo what Brian said. I would also advise you to join the lotuseuropa yahoo group. There are lots of talented and inventive people both places.
Parts shouldn't be a real problem unless yup are trying to keep it original. Some parts are no longer available but there is almost always a good replacement.
Please post pictures and tell us.what your plans are.
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:lotus: Welcome Paul :Welcome:
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Thanks for the feedback. The car arrives on Saturday and I will make sure I get some pictures uploaded.
In the meantime, plenty of research to do and Yahoo group to join!!
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Here's a link that might be useful: http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm
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Welcome to the forum, Paul. There is much advice and information available here. Many knowledgable owners willing to help. I hope the car is as you expect it to be when it arrives. I also bought mine sight unseen (a 73 Special), which I knew to be a risky move, but when it arrived in my yard it was exactly as described, so it can happen. Good luck, and post up a couple of pics when you can. Cheers :beerchug:
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If you're interested in some comradery, look up the folks at Lotus Corp
http://www.lotuscorps.org/index.php
Plenty of old school guys there to help you out.
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I looked through almost 150 pictures of their holiday party but didn't see a single car :(
The did look like a good group that has a lot of fun! And it seemed like a really nice party! :)
There isn't a local Lotus club here so I joined the MG club (they'll let ANYBODY in! :) ) They're a lot of fun. I recommend joining a local club!
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So… The car arrived today. Was feeling apprehensive as I wasn’t sure of what to expect. But it actually turned out OK in the end.
In summary I would describe the car as original and tired. The original colour of the car was red (L05) and have been told that it took on the JPS colours earlier in its life. The paint is looking tired and will need a refresh, together with some small localized body work. Overall, it is not too bad.
The engine turns over by hand with easy and I have dropped some oil into the chambers to get it all lubed up. It has 35k on the clock. Dip stick is clean of water and looks ok. I drained the petrol tank and got shot of that stinking gunk which was in there!
I plan to take the body off the car and send it away for some TLC (body work and spray). As for the mechanicals, I will start work on the rest of the car to get it back on the road. Not looking to do anything over the top, just want it looking and driving nice, enjoy it and generally have a driver car, rather than a show car. Frame looks just to have surface rust, pretty much all the bushings are shot and all hydraulics need rebuilding.
I took some shots of the car and would appreciate any feedback or advice.
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Hi Paul,
Now that looks like a good project car, one that's been used and then just forgotten about. IMO the best sort of project to get, rather than one which has been hacked around. Some period or original fittings as well which are now hard to come by - the Cosmic wheels, the steering wheel, The Lotus Mk1 Rear Deck Prop ( ;) ), so yep, a good project.
I've always bought running cars before and my usual approach has been to look over the brakes & steering to get the car mobile and then start making lists. I usually sort out brakes/steering and unless they are obviously new I replace the suspension/bushes as my first jobs because Lotus cars are all about ride & handling. Engine/gearbox comes next and finally interior trim and bodywork. If you're planning to get someone else to do the bodywork then you'll have two streams in parallel and get a faster result - cashflow permitting !
I don't know your background so at the risk of "teaching granny to suck eggs", I'd go cautiously on the bodywork for now. Polish might just get it "good enough" until it's mobile and if the car has sat for a while then the mechanicals might take up an unexpectedly large portion of the budget. A proper respray on a fibreglass car tends to be very expensive in the UK and I expect it's the same over there. For example people are paying £8k for good jobs on Elans and I've heard of £10k from some places. I would expect a Europa to be similar, and that's a big chunk of the finished car's value.
But again, a great project and I'm looking forward to the updates !
Brian
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I would definitely fit the Banks engine cover gas struts to hold the cover open properly. Using 1 metal bar to prop the cover open stresses the fibre glass, and is a problem on a windy day.
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Overall, not a bad looking car. I wouldn't even worry about the body and paint initially. My first priority would be to get the motor running.
1. drain and clean out the gas tank, add fresh fuel
2. rebuild the carbs, if the butterfly shafts are frozen, consider swapping to 32/36 Webers
3. flush the cooling system, pressure test and back flush the radiator
4. change the oil, prime the oil pump
5. check the distributor, new points and condenser
6. new battery
7. see if it'll start
8. once running, see what is not working electrically
9. work on the suspension.
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Everybody has, as usual, provided great feedback. I think it would be good to get it on the road and drive it a little even if you intend to do a body off restoration. Then you'll have something to motivate you!
The nice thing is that you shouldn't have any problems with parts and in fact, it's likely that the parts you get will be better than the originals! Of course a lot depends on how much you are willing to spend and how long it will be before you go back to Britain - I expect it would be cheaper and easier to ship a completed car or roller than a bunch of parts.
I wasn't aware that paining fiberglass was a big deal, but then I didn't paint my car. It cost somewhere in the $6000 range for my car back in the late '90s and it took something like six weeks IIRC. It came out beautifully. $8000+ might not be out of the question now and the Chicago area may be more expensive. Everybody's right - you may be able to get a reasonable finish with some elbow grease.
We're all ready to provide whatever info we can once you start turning wrenches. Good luck!
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this looks like a fine project!
not only has the big bits, but looks pretty complete overall.
thanks for the preview, let the 'store commence!
richard
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:Welcome:Paul
If you are looking for parts I have quite a few from my S2 when it was overhauled
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Overhauled?!
More like magically transformed!
Perhaps not magically as there was a heck of lot of work but certainly transformed.
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Thanks 7upJohn...
Let me start the list of parts needed with LH door quarter glass. Currently have a lovely misted up piece of plastic as a substitute.
Or if anyone else has one, or knows where to get one.
Thanks.
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That I don't have the originals are still in my car
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....... Steering lock/ignition switch?
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Hopefully, you'll find a good used one at a good price, but failing that, r.d. (rdent.com).
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A long couple of weeks working on the car and finally made some progress tonight. After flushing, cleaning, rebuilding, part searching/buying and not to mention sorting the heap off mess on the ignition electrics, I got the car started. I'm still not getting any fuel and so had to manually squirt fuel into the carb.
I ran a vacuum pump on the fuel line going from the side of the tank to the lower inlet on the fuel pump and it's blocked. Not in the pipe but in the tank. The other pipe going to the front of the tank and T piece is clear. Should the side pipe be blocked? Any ideas what's going on and why it's not sucking fuel?
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If it were me, I would drain both tanks, take out the RH tank, and see what crap there was inside the tank.
If you just blew the fuel line with compressed air, what was blocking it would still be there in the tank to block it some other time.
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Should the pipe inside the tank from the side entry point be open? Meaning if I run compressed air down it the fuel should bubble?
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All pipes should be clear. Use compressed air carefully, making sure there is somewhere for it to go by removing the cap first. Build up pressure slowly as you do not want fuel and fuel vapour to suddenly be sprayed everywhere.
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I can't get it clear. Tried spraying cleaner down there, followed my compressed air and nothing. Tried a few times over the day and still a blockage inside the tank.
Any other ideas??
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Remove tank and:
- get it boiled out at a rad shop;
- cut it open and replace the plugged pipe; or,
- replace it.
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I can't get it clear. Tried spraying cleaner down there, followed my compressed air and nothing. Tried a few times over the day and still a blockage inside the tank.
Any other ideas??
What type of cleaner did you try?
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Can't you stick stiff wire (fence wire) or an opened out metal coat hanger down a section of the feed pipe to see if you can move the obstruction?
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I tried PB blaster and also tried a brake cable from a bicycle. The cable came to a holt at the end and repeated jabs didn't free anything up.
Thanks for the advice everyone. Thinking to remove the tank and have it looked at by my local rad and tank specialist.
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In a S2 tank, the fuel pickup pipe make two 90 degree bends, the first where it enters the tank, bends down 90 degrees to the bottom of the tank and then another 90 degrees horizontally where it follows the bottom of the tank where it open ends mid way about 1/8" off the bottom. It would be difficult to stick a stiff enough wire past two 90 degree bends to push out the obstruction.
I would remove the tank, remove the fuel sending unit and look inside the tank to see the condition of the tank bottom. With a long enough pick, you may be able to poke out the obstruction from the end of the pipe. For chemical removal, you might try soaking the bottom of the tank with CLR or coca cola.
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How about soaking it with something that will dissolve gasoline varnish? I think PB Blaster is more for rust and corrosion. Same with CLR and Coke which are acids, not chemical solvents?
Maybe denatured alcohol? Lacquer thinner? Carb cleaner (the kind in the gallon can for submerging parts)? MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) from a paint store? Acetone? Just beware you don't dissolve any rubber or plastic parts.
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I'm thinking of doing a combination of rust remover and then a solvent to remove the varnish. The first thing is to open up the tank and see how bad the corrosion is, then go from there. You can only do a mechanical cleaning of the pipe for only a very short distance at the outlet (see picture). Anything more may require a boil out of the tank.
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Thanks everyone - great advice.
So I removed the tank last night, which was a challenge in itself trying to cut the rusted fuel tank bolts from inside the FG body. Looking inside there was a lot of gunk and even some small branches. :-\
I took it down to my local "Mr Radiator" and he's going to clean the tank and sort the feed pipe out. There was a bit of surface rust on the tank which I didn't want to take any chances on. Also gave him the radiator to recondition.
I'll report back once I know the issue.
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Update:
So I'm beginning to learn the difficulties to get replacement parts here in the US.
Found the chassis to be bodged together at the front and in need of a replacement. Big disappointment.
Suspension, steering and brakes are all being dismantled, some restored and replaced where necessary.
Have a trip back to the UK planned in the next few weeks and wondering what clothes to sacrifice for suitcase space!
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I had great hopes when disassembling mine and they were similarly dashed. I managed to find a used chassis not too far away (13 hours). Put up wanted posts on this forum and also on the Europa Yahoo list. That's how I found mine and I had several to choose from.
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Thanks jbcollier. Appreciate the advice. I've posted in the wanted section and will keep my eyes and ears open for parts.
I keep reminding myself it's a fairly simple car and not that much can go wrong. As I'm finding out daily, it's not the case!
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An update on my last few weeks.
I had originally hoped my car was in a better condition than I first thought. The front section of the frame had been damaged from a previous crash which the previous guy had covered up. (probably why it has done less than 500 miles since '78). The T section was being held onto the main backbone with little more than rust. Once the body was lifted it was clear this was not safe. It was hanging off. I managed to get a new frame and a few other bits from a very nice guy off this forum.
So Ive spent the last few weeks moving the parts across, restoring bits, buying more new bits and generally trying to rebuild the car from pretty much the ground up.
The body has almost been stripped of parts and needs some TLC where the damaged front end has been repaired. It will soon go off to the painters for a new coat of paint. Going to go back to the original red colour.
I have also decided that since it is all in bits I will do a RHD conversion and get it all ready for the return to the UK next year.
I've attached a few pictures of the current state.
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That looks like a pretty decent start for your project, Paul! Are you keeping it stock or do you have some mods planned?
Good luck!
:lotus:
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Keeping it stock. Or at least that's the idea. The basement is full of new parts to go on it and eager to get them on. Long way to go as the body needs sorting.
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Wheels restored and straightened.
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It cost me about £60 = $100 for each Lotus alloy I got restored, but they look better than two new ones I managed to buy.
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Mine were $110 each, which I thought was pretty good.
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Those Cosmics look great, someone's spent a lot on time on those. Given how much you paid, that's got to be a great deal.
How's the rest of the car coming along these days ?
Brian
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Car is coming on slowly. The body preparation is taking time and learning as I go along. Frame is pretty much good to go, except for the transfer pipes which I'm trying to source. Engine and gearbox assembly to frame is waiting on pipes.
Still living in hope this car can be back on the road before the summer is out.
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Welcome Paul: it sounds like you're well versed on automotive restorations. I'm not the normal Lotus Europa owner and haven't been enamored with its looks since I first saw it at Brands Hatch in 1966.
Europa parts have been getting a bit easier to come by in the last few years, but I've been "customizing" my Type 65 to look like what I imagine the Type 66 would have looked like if that number had been assigned to the Europa... Which means I have a few original parts removed from my 70' S2. I live in the south eastern U.S. and would love to help with those not so easy to get parts if needed.
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When I arrived in the US I bought a show 66 Mustang convertible. Spent a year restoring and rebuilding the mechanicals and reach a point when I longed for some British engineering! That's when I turned to the Europa.
I may be in touch on the parts soon- there's always part needs coming up on a regular basis.
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When I arrived in the US I bought a show 66 Mustang convertible.
A '66 Mustang convertible was my first car, my grandfather bought it for me when I was 9 years old. He even let me drive it on a back road sitting on a pillow... can remember him reaching for the wheel a couple of times. ::)
I can also remember the 7 years it took for me to turn 16 seemed like an eternity. :FUNNY:
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Wow - 7 years old. My wife is 42 and I would not let her drive it! She keeps threatening me to take it out with her friends for the day. Unfortunately, it is being "worked on" that day.
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Mrs. BDA keeps threatening to learn how to drive my car. She's experienced with a manual shift, but I think sitting so low to the ground will ensure she probably won't leave the neighborhood or get anywhere near another car! Sometimes I wish I had gotten an Elan. She might want to ride with me if it were more open.
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I'm looking for some advice on repairing spider cracks. I have done a lot of online research and found different sources giving me different advice. Can I assume this is related to new technologies/materials and changes in best practices???
Anyway, here's a picture of the issue. Its on the rear hood towards the spoiler radius. So far I have used a dremel to cut out the small crack, just through the Gelcoat. I then used Fibreglast 4100 Polyester Fairing compound and planned to finish it off with a smooth finish using 4116 Lightweight polyester cosmetic filler. My question is whether this will be a suitable fix to prevent any future cracks on the new paint job, or whether I need to sand back the whole area and add mat, skim of filler, etc.....
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You're already more sophisticated than I was when I did my glass work (which may have required the body shop to do additional work), but then I didn't have any issues with spider cracks (it's a long story). I would lay some gauze in there somewhere. Maybe before your cosmetic filler? You weren't going there, but just in case anybody had the thought, I would NOT advise laying a fine cloth. Inexplicably, the weave will bleed into the final finish almost no matter what you do.
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I have sanded off all of the paint, primer and gelcoat from my 74 using a DA sander with 80 grit. I had a lot of spider cracks in my finish before I started. I found that the spider cracks were not only in the finish color coat, but in the primer and gelcoat. Not all of the body had gelcoat, just the engine cover and doors - this gelcoat was powder blue in color. Other parts may have had a clear gelcoat, but I never noticed any. I think spider cracks can be eliminated by sanding back to bare fiberglass and I think the spider cracks are caused by surface stress - like around door handles and locks or from impacts like some inconsiderate soul banging the body with their car door in a parking lot. For the paint finish, I start with (2) coats of 2-part black epoxy to seal the fiberglass surface, then sanded that lightly with 180 grit to get rid of any surface flaws, dust particles, etc. followed by (4) coats of high build polyester primer/surface. I then sanded this with a long board and 180 grit using a black powder guide coat to reveal any high or low spots. If any low or high spots appeared, I applied another (4) coats of the high build polyester primer/surface, 180 grit and guide coats and repeated this process until I achieved a perfectly flat surface. I'm still working with this process in preparation for applying a single stage urethane color coat. In what appeared to be high stress areas, I applied (3) layers of 3/4 oz. matt fiberglass to the back side of the body to strengthen these areas - like around door locks or areas that were really thin. Some of the fiberglass is so thin that you can see a shop light when it is held behind the body. Needless to say, this process is really time consuming, but I find it works.
Tom
74 TCS - 4605R
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Thanks Tom for the info. What does the 2-part epoxy do before the build up primer? Once I filled the cracks I was looking to put this Dura Tech product directly on the fiberglass to cover all repairs, GelCoat and fiberglass.
http://www.fibreglast.com/product/Duratec_Gray_Surfacing_Primer_1041/Duratec
I was hoping this, combined with the other filler products would cover all sins.
Here is a picture of the body currently.
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The 2-part epoxy was recommended by the PPG paint shop where I buy my paint supplies. They say the epoxy seals the fiberglass to keep moisture out of the fiberglass whereas the polyester high build primer/filler does not do as well with moisture. I have read this same scenario on Internet blogs. Evidently, moisture in the fiberglass will break the material down over time. I have seen moisture ridden fiberglass turned into a shredded wheat like material on cars left out in the weather for an extended period of time. When I'm sanding the high build grey primer to flatten the surface, the black epoxy will expose itself if I sand too far - I stop sanding when I see the black epoxy and apply more high build primer -seeing the black epoxy is a signal that I have hit a high spot in the panel surface.
Tom
74 TCS - 4605R
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You have to grind out the spider cracks and layer in tissue and resin. Otherwise, the cracks will come back.
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From my experience, the cracks did not penetrate the base fiberglass. When you wipe a suspected cracked fiberglass area with acetone, you will see the cracks more easily. I did not see evidence of the cracks penetrating the fiberglass and I had some cracks in the painted surface that you could stick your fingernail into in addition to the radiating spider cracks.
Tom
74 TCS - 4605r
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I ordered some tissue from rdent and will play it safe on the spider cracks. The cracks go though the top layer of glass (assuming it's the gelcoat), so should add some stability. I'll try to get a layer underneath to strengthen it all up.
This body work is endless!
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I'm currently finishing the dash refurb and have a set of letter transfers to add to the new veneer. Does anyone have an image or diagram for which letters should correspond to which hole? It's from a 1971 S2.
Thanks.
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Another evening on the car and another issue- one of the studs for the manifold to head had been over tightened and as a result the threads have been stripped.
What's the fix? Helicoils or tap a larger hole for a larger stud?? It's the Renault aluminium head.
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I would probably try a helicoil or a timesert. Helicoil is the stock answer, but our own LotusJoe suggests that a timesert is even better if more expensive. I think both would make an acceptable repair. Both are available from Amazon.
Here is where they are discussed on this forum: http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=132.msg4713#msg4713
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I think I'd go helicoil myself and keep all the studs identical. There are better (?) alternatives out there but for that job a simple helicoil should be fine.
A larger stud would also work but you might need to drill the manifold for clearance, plus with me being lazy I don't want to be swapping spanner sizes when pulling it apart next time !
On the dashboard query I've never seen a diagram just for the transfer placing, but you should be ok by going from the driver's handbook ? If you don't have one there are pdf copies on
http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm)
Brian
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Another evening on the car and another issue- one of the studs for the manifold to head had been over tightened and as a result the threads have been stripped.
What's the fix? Helicoils or tap a larger hole for a larger stud?? It's the Renault aluminium head.
time sert
http://www.timesert.com/
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Personally I would helicoil. Have fitted quite a few now, easy fix. Amazon or eBay. I did 2 on the twincam head and a couple on the timing chain cover base plate.
Not used a Timesert but it looks like by the design you need to drill a larger pilot hole, so the risk of breaking into a waterway would be higher.
Either will do, just what you prefer.
Dave
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Thanks for the helpful advice. I went with the Helicoils in the end and all is back to working state.
Another question related to the manifold nut/studs. I have the original cast manifold on the Renault engine. There is one lower nut which is really difficult turn with the manifold being too close to the stud. In fact it looks so tight that the nut cannot turn. Is there meant to be some kind of shoulder nut here?
I changed over to a weber carb at the weekend and finally got to get the motor running. It sounded great (with good oil pressure) and although still on a rolling chassis without the body. Certainly a step in the positive direction.
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Congratulations on getting your motor running! That's a big step!
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Hi Paul,
Good to meet you, I'm a brit living in Bethesa MD, what was an assignment turned into a new wife/life etc so here to stay now.
Good luck with your project, I've got myself into the same hole with a '74 TC and will be breathing life back into it starting in the spring of 17, till then I am drawing up lists of things to do and trying to figure what's needed vs. nice to have.
Anyhow have fun and good luck with the car.
Jon.
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Another question related to the manifold nut/studs. I have the original cast manifold on the Renault engine. There is one lower nut which is really difficult turn with the manifold being too close to the stud. In fact it looks so tight that the nut cannot turn. Is there meant to be some kind of shoulder nut here?
If it's one of the two bottom middle studs (Pic 1), I can see why you're having problems. As far as I can see, you can't fit a socket to fit over the nut, the closeness of the manifold runners prevents proper fit (Pic 2). If you look at the parts manual for the S2, I believe there should be a long spacer for those two studs. This is the service manual quote on removing the exhaust manifold.
"If the exhaust manifold gasket is to be replaced at the same time -
Remove the manifold.
Undo the four nuts and washers and the two socket bolts and washers, retaining the manifold to the cylinder head. Carefully remove the manifold and the gasket"
I don't see how anyone can tighten the exhaust nut without an extension spacer for those two bottom studs. FYI, on 65/2501, the manifold is secured by a long threaded spacer nut for an internal allen head tool on those two positions.
Sorry on not giving you a solution on the problem.
Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, CA
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Would a crow's foot fit?
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s52/badrufus/Z_CrowsFoot_2.jpg)
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A sneaky ground down or slim open ended will probably fit. I'd replace with an allen or Torx bolt.
Dave
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Hot Rod VWs to your rescue:
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13%2D43%2D6051%2DB
8 mm x 1.25 thread with a 11 mm external hex.
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Would a crow's foot fit?
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s52/badrufus/Z_CrowsFoot_2.jpg)
I've attached another photo showing how difficult it is to get any tool on the header nut. I estimate that there is just enough room to get a credit card between the nut and manifold runner. A lot of ingenuity by the OP will be required to get the nut off, some one managed to get on the first place.
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Looks to me like there is a thick washer missing. Even a thin walled ring spanner would struggle to get in there.
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:confused:
Assuming it's a standard part, I wonder how Renault managed it on a production line ? When buzzer came along with an Allen bolt suggestion I thought that would crack it, but access looks awful. Anything in the manuals about special tools or an extra long stud plus spacer tube ?
Edit to add.... by any chance is it one of the studs here ? Looks as if it goes externally once you've got the inlet manifold on, which at least would explain how Renault did it.
Apologies if it's wrong, I don't know much about renault engines so this is guessing......
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I went down the Elise production line at Hethel in around 2002. It all looked very simple then. If you assemble it in the right order, it is much easier, but as with most cars, future maintenance gets zero thought in the design.
New cars have no way of checking or filling the gearbox oil. Most have to be filled through the speedo drive hole.
I think the longer stud must have been the original manifold fitment. Tightening that nut, even in the engine building workshop, would be difficult for anyone unless a specialist tool was used, and quite what it looked like is anyone's guess.
Alex in Norfolk.
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What about a jet nut? They have a much smaller hex than the standard nut of that size. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=MJET&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MJET&gclid=Cj0KEQjwi_W9BRD_3uio_Jz-p8UBEiQANU80vtFPJ7r_EzaG0nuyahxYbTKmGwkKLkbkxhGbY63o_NcaAn-y8P8HAQ
I forgot to mention that they're also lock nuts.
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The problem is getting the existing retaining nut off. Looking at the S2 parts book, it appears that Renault originally used a long bolt and long spacer to reduce the access problem, items 6 & 10 as Brian surmised.
http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/s2parts/e/ef.htm
My S2 has an Else style intake manifold. The PO used a stud and a long round threaded nut with an internal hex to secure the manifold. It seems to work well although I haven't tried to remove the manifold yet. I think the OP, Paul, gave up on removing his manifold.
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Here is my suggestion:-
You will have to take the head off, and then either carefully use a centre punch to rotate the nut, or drill a hole into the nut and then insert a drill bit or something very hard to start rotating the nut.
Once you turn the nut 2 flats (1/3 of a turn), it should get much easier to rotate.
Alex in Norfolk.
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Thanks everyone for the recommendations. The old nut is off so I am just looking for a fix onto the stud. I'll try the collar approach first and then might have to result to the thinner wall sectioned nut.
Here is a few pictures of the car so far. Plenty to do but making some good head way. (excuse the temp wiring loom, hose config and old rad)
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I'm surprised you didn't put the steering wheel and seats in your pictures! ;D
It looks like you're making good progress! It gets like a snowball where the further you get, the more exciting is is!
Good luck and thanks for the pictures!
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Good job, everything looks real clean. What size battery are you using? In the photo (6th one down), it looks to be humongous.
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It's an EverStart 51R battery. Not so big in real life. 12x23x20height cm
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I've got a few questions which I hoped people can help me out with which have been accumulating:
1. What vehicle does the steering outer column come from? Mines with the hole for a key locked steering. S2 federal 71.
2. What holds the brake line along the backbone lower corner of the frame? Mines a new frame and has no holes. Is it p clips or a tape?
3. What colour should the Renault rover cover be and in what finish? Gloss, satin, etc. I'm planning on getting it power coated.
4. What colour should the pullies be on the Renault engine and also large washer/ spacers which are used on the cam pulley.
It's my intention to go for the OEM look so keen to keep it as per original specs as possible. (Within a budget of course!!!)
Thanks everyone in advance.
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When I pulled the body off of the frame from 0934R, I found the brake lines going to the rear just dangling. Looking at the splices in the brake lines (see picture) I didn't think that was the original setup. After flipping the frame over, I saw several drilled holes in the bottom of the frame along the edge. I believe that was how the lines to the rear were originally secured. with "P" clips. I can't see any manufacturer leaving brake lines just dangling like that. When one of the POs spliced in the new brake line, he apparently didn't reattach the clips.
Regarding the steering post this was posted a while back on the Yahoo mail list message #143464.
Quote
"I upgraded my S2 many years back with column switched from the Triumph Dolomite, which were the same pattern as the Europa Special
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=triumph+dolomite+interior&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=627&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjaiOW73dLOAhXqJ8AKHT2QA0sQ_AUIBigB
Also later 1500 Spitfires
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=triumph+dolomite+interior&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=627&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjaiOW73dLOAhXqJ8AKHT2QA0sQ_AUIBigB#tbm=isch&q=triumph+1500+interior&imgrc=_
2.5PI, Stag were also the same. Perhaps Lotus had to change or order old spec S1, S2 in smaller quantities at increased cost?"
Unquote-
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Thanks everyone. I acquired a new steering outer column and fixed a few of the other outstanding bits.
New brake lines made, fitted and ran fluid through it with the MS set up. Few leaks fixed, corrected with some bedding in of the flare joints. All fine now. Time to disconnect the MS in readiness for the body. Or at least the first fix.
New loom and reassembly is next to do.
I've added some pictures below of the final paint job. Car is ready today and heading over there for collection.
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Exciting or what ? :)
The paint looks good. I always used to think that black was the best colour for a Europa but since joining here and seeing a few white ones, I could see that conviction wavering. It does seem a colour that suits the lines.
Right, you've got body and bits at home to play with now, so no excuses for a regular picture-fest !
Brian
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She does look great - especially because she's white! :) I have to agree with Brian that black is a beautiful color as well. Black can be the most stunning color for a car, but as difficult as white is to keep clean, black is much worse.
For some reason, I've always thought that if a car looks good white, it's a pretty car, but maybe that just shows my prejudice for white!
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Ok... So, there has to be a way of getting this body on that frame for a first fix. (Holes for new frame need marking out and drilling). I have friends, an engine lift with tilting device, wooden 4x2 and some determination.
I'm thinking a two stage approach. Build 4 posts from some kind of concrete blocks around 70cm high.
Lift the body with friends and wood beams running side to side onto the four posts positioned at the four corners of the rockers. This will enable to body to clear the engine.
Lift the front, remove a block from each side, repeat on back, do front again and repeat until I he body is sat on the frame. Mark the holes and lift in reverse order with blocks.
Is there an easier way. For example using the engine lift and building some kind of structure to lift the body without obstructing the engine or frame during assembly.
Advice welcomed!
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When I did mine, it was a similar method to you suggest. ( only minus the friends :-[ )
I had 2 thick planks running the length of the sills, probably scaffolding boards, 6-8" wide, 2" thick ? To remove the chassis I used 2 trolley jacks and simply went from one side to the other slowly raising it to the max lift. Then it would be secured on 2 axle stands per side, rinse & repeat the process. Once the axle stands were as high as I felt comfortable with, I used anything to hand to lift their base high enough, bricks, 4" fence posts, anything.
I rolled it out and back in, complete with engine & wheels just as you're proposing.
I don't have detailed pictures of the process, but there was a lot of shuffling of axle stands & jacks going on. I was a bit stuck for space so didn't have any other option really. Someone on here recently posted a shot with a custom built wooden framework and ropes/pulley to lift the car (Leftangle ?) which looked a neat approach.
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This is how I did 4688R.
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What should be going through these holes? Currently have the speedo cable through the small one. What about the larger hole? I have a feeling I'm missing something here as I do not see the harness running through the chassis.
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The other thing that goes through the backbone is the e-brake cable but it goes through the ob-long holes further toward the front. I might have a few wires go through mine, I don't remember. Other than that, I'm drawing a blank. Maybe somebody who's been there more recently will have some ideas.
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The field of view is too tight to see what part of the chassis you are referring to. Back up and take another photo with a wider field or say what part of the chassis we are looking at.
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I had the same problem initially but the heater tubes were the giveaway to where he's talking about.
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Just in front of the gear stick (shifter) about where the dashboard comes down.
Oil pressure pipe, from engine to gauge ?
Alex in Norfolk.
P.S. Just looked at a TCS. The only things that come out there are the speedo cable and the oil pressure pipe.
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Here is a better picture.
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Big milestone. First time I have sat in the car! Seats not the most comfortable, but planning some tlc that will resolve the experience!
Here are a few pictures of the body assembly with some images of how I went about it. (Single handed I might add.)
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Looking good! How did she fit? Any issues going back together?
:coolpic:
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Lowering it off the blocks was a challenge with the frame underneath. Used blocks of wood and concrete blocks combined until it was low enough to get jack stands under the body. Took a while with small steps but got there in the end.
The frame is new so having to drill new holes once it's together.
Incidentally- what size bolts go in the front luggage area to frame? Anyone know off hand?
Also, the two fixes towards the front of the tunnel inside the car. I have no threads in the chassis, just bobbins in the fibreglass. How do these fixes work? Do I need to put nuts on the bolts inside the tunnel or are they self tapping??
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Congratulations!!! Things are starting to come together! :beerchug:
Not sure what you mean by 'fixes', and I don't remember the size of the bolts in the front trunk to the chassis, but I think they are 3/8". The biggest bolt that will fit in the bobbin in the body. On the TC there are a pair of them at the rear of the chassis. I expect that's the same as on the S2. Those are probably 3/8", too. Again, the biggest bolt you can fit in the bobbin. Oh, you'll probably have to buy a long drill bit for the holes in the front at least.
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Here is a better picture.
I've attached a slightly better picture. As far as I can tell the large hole on the right is covered up by the body when installed. I can't see anything running through it, an unused hole?
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Great thank you for the info. Ill leave it alone with a rubber Bing installed.
Next question:
What colour should this box be? Shown here in red.
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That's a bung not Bing. :confused:
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Can anyone advise me on the original colour? I'm guessing it wasn't red and should be black. (The other spare one I have is yellow so sending me in a spiral of doubt!)
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Satin black
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Thanks.
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On to the next job:
Has anyone made their own inner wheel arch covers? These are the cardboard type material flaps that are riveted to the body. Any recommendations would be welcomed.
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I don't know if this helps you, but I had my original ones so I used them as a template. I used a black plastic material I found somewhere.
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I would use rubber or plastic, similar to that used for mud flaps.
Make sure they do not hit the tyres when you turn the steering wheel, as they are a tight fit if you have 185 tyres (mine hit, so I will have to modify).
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I used 1/4" rubber at first, then last year replaced the front ones with 1mm Aluminium painted black. The aluminium ones are a better fit and fix with self tapping screws and sealant.
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I did the same as Brian, used 1mm aluminium sheet. The front one pop riveted and sealed with silicone and the rear I fitted nutserts in the body and screwed the panels in, so I can access to the fuel tank bolts. I used a cardboard template to get the shape.
Dave
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Great thank you for the info. Ill leave it alone with a rubber Bing installed.
Next question:
What colour should this box be? Shown here in red.
I've run across one MC bracket boxes painted red and four with red primer and painted or coated black. I've been painting mine red.
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That's a bung not Bing. :confused:
:FUNNY:
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Here are a few pictures of the progress so far.
I have some questions which I'll post tomorrow related to some issues I'm facing in the assembly.
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She's coming together! Keep those pictures coming! :)
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I had replaced the MS with the Cardone 13-1777 as per this link. http://www.lotuseuropa.org/downloadable_files/S2-Alternate-MC.pdf
Everything went together well and I included the recommended large stopper washer to prevent the plunger from coming out of the MS.
The issue then came that the push rod from the pedal to the three way junction wasn't long enough to attach to the brake pedal. The stopper washer was doing it's job but preventing the rod from coming out far enough. There was around 2cm gap from the pedal. If I connected them together the pedal would effectively be flat to the back wall. I unscrew the push rod out and it only provided a little improvement. Its like I need to add an extension piece (similar to the steering rack and rod end joints) in there to extend the push rod length. I tried to capture the issue with the pictures below.
Has anyone else had this issue? The pedal assembly is new and I'm thinking the foot print of the plate is larger, so pushing it further away from the original position.
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If you have the rod connecting the MC to the brake pedal screwed out as far as possible and you're still 2 cm short the simplest and safest way is to replace with a longer threaded rod or a longer clevis. This will however require you to remove the MC bracket box again. Pegasus has two different lengths clevis, see attached pictures for lengths. McMaster-Carr sells the threaded rods. You need to measure carefully what you need.
Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca
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Thanks Grumblebuns. I'll get those parts on order. I am assuming with the application, a high strength steel threaded rod (G8) would be better.
Regarding the angle of the brake pedal, is there any guidelines for what I should be headed for? for instance the actual foot pedal surface (Centre area) should be 90 degrees to the floor?
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I don't believe that the service manual addresses the position of the brake pedal. It's probably more a matter of personal preference. My S2 has it's brake pedal almost vertical with a slight rearward lean. My TCS is the opposite with a slight forward lean.
Just a word of caution if you change out the clevis. Make sure that the function of the large fender washer inside the MC brake extension is not compromised with the change of clevis length. I would choose the shorter clevis and use a longer threaded section to make up the necessary shortage of the stock rod. Cutting the head from a 2-1/2" long bolt and using the it to connect the clevis to the stock pushrod should give you enough play to connect to the brake pedal at minimal cost.
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I'm about to start the installation of the new wiring harness and wanted to collect any advice/ lessons learnt from the forum.
I have a large scaled up wiring diagram print posted on the garage wall, have the new harness all set to go.
What are the recommended steps and procedures to make sure this is done correctly. Although I am confident in general wiring items, it is the first time I have installed a whole new harness and sure others have this procedure to make this as painless as possible. Not to mention making a mistake and burning the thing up.
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I considered rewiring my car, but chickened out so I'm not much help, but one think you might consider is doing initial testing with low amperage/voltage. I used a dry cell for my initial testing.
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Put the harness through the rear bulkhead from the centre cab where the seats are, and feed it through the hole under the plenum chamber to the front lights etc.
I intend to connect all the wiring to the dashboard before putting the dash and crashpad in together. The dash and crashpad were joined with glue and staples on 4688R (very late Federal car) so they must have been put in together on the production line. (It had only done 15,000 miles from new before crashing heavily and sitting in various car yards for about 40 years)
Test every circuit before connecting the battery and turning on the ignition, with a multimeter.
Alex in Norfolk.
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My car is an S2 Federal. The harness I have is a new TC Federal. I was told the S2 Fed is difficult to get and the TC Fed can be used, since the tail lamps, etc.... are specific to the fed version.
However... there are clearly differences between the two - in particular linked to the charging (Alternator) which Richard @ Banks tells me that it needs to be an ACR version.
Has anyone out there gone through this installation and can let me know what other changes I would need to make to cater for the differences in harnesses.
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Well I would get the nearest harness you can then I'm afraid it's a case of going through the wiring diagrams and through what is connected to what and sorting out the changes. I bought a TCS harnes to go into a TCS and had to make changes....in particular the alternator connectors!
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I'm beginning to get a good feel for the differences. Main one is the engine bay with many electrical bits are located in different positions and requiring the tape wrap to be removed, wires re-routed and wrapped back up. The regulator and relay for the alternator require a new mini loom and the front harness needs to go through the chassis centre rather than through the wheel arch.
I'm just lying the harness out trough the car and marking out each connector and will report back as I go.
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Im in the process of finishing the wiring loom and fixing down the dash. But, I'm a little stuck on the lower dash L bracket fixes. How are these meant to be fixed to the tunnel? There are two bobbins but no holes in the chassis (I did replace the chassis frame with a new one).
Should the screws thread into the bobbin, or into threads in the chassis?
Picture shows what I am trying to overcome.
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I am 120 miles away from my bare chassis, but from photos, it looks like there is a threaded nut welded into the chassis where the L brackets are sited.
It looks like a 1/2" head 5/16"thread type bolt fixing.
I seem to remember several earth wires are attached to those L brackets so there must be a direct metal connection to the chassis.
Alex in Norfolk
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Thanks for responding Alex.
I'm missing those fixings, so might have to drill a hole and install two bolts from the underside (inside the chassis), with a bolt on the top next to the L bracket. At least the L brackets can slide out without having to remove the bolt fully.
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There are (2) 3/8" - 24 bolts that secure the L-brackets to the fiberglass body and frame. There are (2) threaded spool pieces welded into the top of the frame tunnel that they thread into. These bolts can be difficult to get the threads lined up and started. I have needed to loosen or remove the bolts at the front and rear - two at the front on each side near the top shock mount and two at the rear also near the top shock mount. By fiddling around, you can get all (6) bolts lined up and tightened down. See the attached photo for the L-brackets installed. You may also need to loosen the bolts that secure the L-bracket to the wood dash in order to get things lined up.
Tom - 74TCS - 4605R
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Also, if you cannot see or feel the threaded spool pieces that are welded into the top of the frame tunnel, the fiberglass body and frame our out of alignment in the front-back direction. Getting all (6) holes lined up can be a real bugger.
Tom - 74 TCS - 4605R
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I checked a picture of the frame and there wasn't any holes from the outside - see picture.
I'll check tonight if there is anything on the underside.
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Carefully open up a larger hole in the fibreglass and fit rivet-nuts/nutserts to suit. Use large fender washers to cover the fibreglass hole when you're done.
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Paul,
You really need to try to line up the (6) fiberglass body to frame bolt holes before you start drilling new holes to secure the L-brackets. If you try to drill new holes, you will most probably be trying to drill thru the wall thickness of the threaded spool pieces in the frame. Take a small shafted screw driver and see if you can poke it down thru the bobbins under the L-brackets and into the threaded spool pieces in the frame to see how unmatched the bobbin and frame hole are - I had to do a lot of wrestling to move the fiberglass body forward and backward on the frame to get the (2) L-bracket holes to line up. Get the L-bracket bolts in first (but do not tighten them) then install the other (4) bolts - you may need to take a 3/8" drill and using the front and rear bobbins as a guide, enlarge the last (4) bolt holes in the frame. You can also poke a round screw driver shaft down the bobbins in an attempt to pry the holes into alignment. All of the (6) bolts are 3/4"-24 - I used stainless steel cap allen bolts, stainless washers and stainless nyloc nuts on the last (4) bolts
Tom - 74 TCS4605R
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I couldn't see any sign of the threaded holes on the photo of the new chassis.
Mine can clearly be see here:-
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Here are the holes on my chassis.
(http://www.lotuseuropa.org/gallery/albums/album13/MountingHolesFront.jpg)
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Here is a photo of my frame after applying the foam plastic insulation - you can see the same holes as shown in 4129R's photo above. You can also see the (2) holes at the outer ends of the front cross member where the fiberglass body bolts to the frame.
Tom - 74TCS-4605R
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Thanks everyone for the responses. I took a camera and light inside the frame and found localized thickened plates underneath the areas where the holes should be. Since the frame was brand new, I assume these holes had never been cut.
I proceeded the drill the holes and tapped a 3/8-24 thread. Everything is all finished and L brackets now fixed.
On to the next job!
Here is a picture of the dash and wiring progress
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Hello all-
Time to share an update on the progress and of course ask some further questions!!
-The wiring loom is now 95% complete and just requires testing. I plan to use a meter to test the loom and each line/ switch over the next couple of weeks.
- One of the seats is now complete and the recovering is done. I mastered the art of the sewing machine, thanks to some handy tips I learnt back in school when we were forced to do needle work as part of Home Studies (or some other name for it.) Funnily enough cooking skills never stuck with me, unlike the ability to sew a car seat cushion.
- Dash is all in secured in.
- Restored fuel tank is in, with all new fixings to the body and grommets, etc...
- Carpet is going in for the difficult to reach places - in preparation for the doors to be attached.
- The windscreen needs to come out and I am yet to buy the new one. I was looking at Pilkington Classics. $390 each. Can anyone recommend a source for the fixing kit here in the US? I notice SJSportscars has one, but prefer something more local. (WINDSCREEN BONDING KIT SJ075B0008 KIT 26.40), Also is there a source for the correct chrome trim here in the US which attaches around the screen before installation?
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She's looking great (though I did have to turn my head around to view a couple of the pictures!)
The seat looks good enough that I wouldn't worry about not being able to cook. After all, you only eat a meal once but you will sit in that seat many times!
One thing you might consider when testing your wiring is to use a dry cell battery. Low amps and voltage shouldn't cause any damage in case there is a problem.
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Pilkington Classics for sure. They sell the original Triplex glass windscreen. That is where I bought mine. It is beautiful. ;)
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I got very close to original trim from R.D. Enterprises.
I also got a local glass company to come and bond my screen. They knew what they were doing!
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Has anyone refreshed their Dash Pads with some dye? Any recommendations? Mines is good shape (No cracks or splits) just looks a bit faded.
Might as well while the screen is out.
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You might take a look at www.leatherique.com - I used their refinishing system on the leather interior of my 1995 BMW 540i, but it can also be used on vinyl. To apply the dye, I used a piece of microfiber cloth, wetted the cloth with the die and rubbed it on - took three coats to get nice coverage. It drys a little dull, but can be buffed up. Leatherique has a cleaner and conditioner that you apply before the dye. The nice thing about apply the dye with a microfiber cloth is you can control where the dye goes rather than spraying on dye.
Tom
74 4605R
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Time for an update! It's been a busy time finishing off the installation of the new harness and adapting it from a TC to an S2, but finally made it, with the help of britishwiring.com the wires and bits are all looking good and as original as I could make. Now the testing has been complete I am a happy man! Car starts, runs and all lights and electrics are working nicely.
My parents have been over from the UK over Christmas and my dad has helped me install the windscreen, together with a new Chrome surround from Banks. There were plenty of issues and it literally took 2 solid days to get it to the drying stage. Biggest issue was the extrusion didn't fit over the glass edge. Either the glass was too thick or the extruded trim channel was too thin. The process we followed was:
-Removed and cleaned old screen. Cleaned up edges of the body and removed all the old sealant. (was a messy job from the previous owner)
-Cleaned and primed both edge of screen and body.
-Placed the screen in place and made up some small spacers to get the screen to the right offset. from the body flange. Used the two spacers at the bottom of the screen to get the right alignment.
- Using the sealant gun, (Dinitrol 500) we squirted the sealant under the screen as much as we could and used a screw driver to run down the edges. This inserted the right amount of bond between the screen and the flange. We avoided it spilling out over the pillars and inner screen. Lightly pressed the screen to ensure the bond was there. Repeated on all 4 edges. The result looked really good with full coverage under the screen. I preferred this way as there was much more control over where the bonding went.
- We cut the small edge off the back of the trim where it would have fitted around the glass. The plan was to push the previous "L" shape into the bond and let it set. The new shape was basically a shortened L shape with the foot cut off.
- With the trim all cut to length and the ends prepared so they slid into the corner pieces (took a whole day to prepare these parts) we applied more bonding and inserted the trim into the gaps. Then we tied it down with tape until it dried.
It is difficult to explain in words the process, but I hope you get an idea from the bullet points and images.
Next is the side quarter glass and rear window. Is there any instructions for how to insert the quarter windows and rear screen? I have full new sets of seals from Banks and ready to install. But would appreciate some tips.
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Great job with everything, Paul, but what really impressed me is the fit of your doors!!