Lotus Europa Community

That crossover pipe arrangement between the carbs and engine head is not original. Might still work for all I know.

Hi There

I stripped out the seats, hoovered up the copious amounts or rat/mice and what ever droppings. The seats will be stripped to the bare frames and sent off for blasting and painting. Do people modify them in any way before restoration? Like solid bases or metal straps instead of the rubber webbing?

One of the bases has been recovered and I like the look of the more pronounced stepping/stitching. I did see a pair of seats that had been redone in this style but I cannot find the pictures. Does anyone remember or know who it was?

Is the cardboard on the firewall at the back of the engine look original?

Also I have included pictures of the paint chipping. Does it look original? It seems to have a lighter coat underneath in places. I'm really not sure. It looks pretty thin.

Many thanks for any thoughts!

Berni

 

I thought I'd remind everyone that if you split the caliper, you should use the square section o-ring and not a regular round sectioned one. The square section ones are generally available where ever rebuild kits are sold and may be part of the rebuild kit.

Somewhere around, I have the torque figures (there are two different size bolts, and Girling never released the figures.  Easiest (closest) way to see what the torque should be is to use a beam torque wrench and note the break-away torque) to use in resetting the two halves together.  It's close enough.  Proper name for that seal is "Quad Seal" and usually not in the standard rebuild kits (since you're not supposed to split the caliper), but most of the usual suspects have them.

Needless to say, rebuilding calipers is one of the more enjoyable repair jobs on these things.  OK, I'm strange. 

Spent another weekend working on my '71 S2 and more good progress was made. The front and rear suspension, steering and gear linkage is all good to go. Just needs a nut & bolt check, going over to check all torque settings are correct and I need a small piece welded for the rear gearbox mount. A few other small jobs and I'll be ready to put the body back down on the [new] chassis.. for the first time in 15 years

Don't forget, there is a small (3/16" tall) spacer UNDER the heim/ball joint on the end of the shift adapter off the end of the transaxle.  If you just snug up the nut on the arm...the ball joint will bind and loosen up.  Not that it won't shift properly, but the joint will always be loose.  See first photo.

I'll be ordering new silicon hoses from Banks shortly, but I also need a new radiator. Does anyone know which ones fit? I unfortunately no longer have a radiator at all, so have nothing to compare it to and I'm assuming something like a VW polo rad' will fit?

Patterned radiators (aluminum) are all over EvilBay like flies on you-know-what.  That's your best choice: the mounts are in the right place, the baffle is where it needs to be, the hose connections are on the right side and in the right place, and, from the few I've seen, they just fit, rather than trying to make something work that was not meant to go in that space.  Also, don't forget to reinistall the fiber closing pieces at the rear of the nose that cover the steering rack and so forth.  If you don't...you won't pressurize the chamber enough to get airflow through the radiator and you will overheat.  If they've gone walkabout...make some.  I used 24 thou sheet aluminum.  See photo 2.

Brake pipe to the rear, do you run the pipes through the chassis? I'm assuming you do, but someone might have a better idea?

As BDA said, from the factory they ran under the backbone.  Some, as he said, mount them up on the side.  However you do, use padded Adel ("P") clamps so 1) you don't get dissimilar metal corrosion and 2) a more secure mounting.

Windscreen surrounds: Mine is very ugly. The silver plastic is massive and just doesn't look very nice. Is there a better option?
I'm still a way off of having to worry about such things, but I think it every time I look at it!

You are limited by your imagination.  Some re-set the window and fill in the gap with urethane and get chrome trim that sticks on.  Others save the original trim (since it's been long (as in since the late 80s) no longer available) and do a chrome vinyl wrap, others?  It's your car...what makes you happy?

Oh and the final dumb question is the callipers/disks are from a Triumph Spitfire, right?

They are the same body...but the drillings for the bundy connection are different, so if you use Spit calipers, you'll have to bend up new bundy pipes to go from the flex hose to the caliper.

But if you still have yours...they can be overhauled, repaired, and will work fine.  The pistons aren't a close fit in the bores, and with some judicious cleaning up, new seals, a spit of paint (if you want...I did mine in red just because...) and you're good to go.  I've never tossed what looked like trashed calipers...always was able to return them to use.  Stainless pucks, new seals, new bleeder, set of pads...takes an hour or so to do both of them once they're cleaned up.  I always preferred using the originals since the fluid inlet was where it was designed for in the car (in the center of the back) and the bleed was where it needed to be (at the top) to make it easier to get working.  Just a thought.

That appears to be on the right side of the car, just above the steering rack.

What diameter is the tube?

It looks too big to be a brake fluid pipe, so it must be something to do with the cooling system, and seems to be the same size as the heater pipes connected to the chassis. It is not original, so you need to find out where the other end is, around the passenger footwell.

Vacuum feed for the single booster that was an option for the ROW S2s?  IIRC, that booster was mounted up front.  I'd check in the engine room for the other end, you may find it that's what it was for...just spitballing.