TCS update from England

[Dilkris]

I haven't posted on here for some time - so just thought I do an update and show people where I am to date. As with most posts the story is in the pictures so please see the attached. I obviously have 100's of pictures covering every part of the build so far so if anybody is interested in any specific part please PM me. (Note: Most of the build however I have posted on the Forum.)
I have recently been working on the radiator, (which I intend to post in the Garage Section) - I have a couple of things to complete (and re-work) on the "go cart" as I call it, and then I will move onto the body. It has taken me 4 years to get to this stage. My target was to drive the car (completed) on my 70th Birthday, but with that looming in May next year..... it's not going to happen. 
A very special thanks to everybody who has helped me on the forum as without your input I could not have achieved what I have done to date. Incredible forum comprising some incredible people.         

[TurboFource]

It looks great so far! 

[4129R]

Will the alternator clear the rear luggage box?

I had to make a cut-out in one of mine to clear a Lucas alternator and the plug in wires.

You will have to take the hand brake reaction lever off before fitting the body. Ditto the two radiator tubes poking out the front of the chassis (I think).

The new earth wire below where the battery goes may need to be moved too.

[Dilkris]

Hi 4129R - we've chatted a few times over the years (you've helped out numerous times) and I am impressed by your attention to detail regarding the pictures.
1. Will the alternator clear the luggage box? TBH I have no idea, it physically looks no bigger than that which came off so time will tell. Before I start working on the body my plan is to lower it into position to check all such details and also to re-acquaint myself to what fixing go where and to make improvements/repairs where necessary.
2. Handbrake reaction lever is there just to complete the circuit so to speak and allowed me to test the system - so "yes" I agree it has to come off. You will note I am still missing the rubber gaiters on the exposed sections of cable to each rear brake. (any ideas?)
Not to sure about the radiator tubes....I could pull them back maybe a couple of inches if need be.     
3. The earth cable in question is purely temporary and simply allows my to periodically turn the engine over - you can see a small "dashboard" I assembled and located on the right rear of the chassis. I do this to stop possible valve spring "settlement" (which is a personal thing and I no way suggest that everyone should do this.    
I will be posting my pictures of my refurbishment of the radiator over the next couple of days - I am working toward running the engine to confirm all ok before I start the learning curve of body work.             

[Dilkris]

Just noticed the pictures I posted, whilst I reduced in memory size, are abnormally large when opened - what have I done wrong here? I've not had a problem before but I had to move to another computer some months back and I am now struggling with Windows 11 and Office 2021..... why do they have to change things?? !!!!     

[BDA]

Things are moving right along! I checked my car (with stock transfer tubes) and they don’t protrude into the body in the front so you should be good to put the body on without moving them.

I’m not sure how your pictures got so big. I would guess it has to do with the way you resize them. Here is one method for resizing your photos (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1379.0). I use this method (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_55eg00H-w). This is for Windows but Apple has a similar feature.

[Dilkris]

Thanks BDA - I'll give it a go.

[4129R]

You will note I am still missing the rubber gaiters on the exposed sections of cable to each rear brake. (any ideas?)
   

Cover the exposed cables with copperslip. I have never seen replacement rubbers, and cannot see how you could fit them on after the cable has been factory assembled.

I add spacers to the cables outers where they clip into the trailing arms, rather than adjusting the cable in the tunnel. I think the outers are 1/2" in diameter, so I drill a 1/2" nut to clear 13mm, cut a small slot out of the nut to fit over the cable inner (about 2-3mm). It takes up a lot of the slack. You can do 1 cable at a time, so a 1/2" thick cut nut on each side takes up a lot of cable stretch. Quite why they made access into the chassis tunnel so tight to adjust the cable, they did not think ahead. They could easily have made a larger bolt on plate to cover a bigger access hole, thereby not weakening the chassis rigidity. Moan over.

[Dilkris]

You will note I am still missing the rubber gaiters on the exposed sections of cable to each rear brake. (any ideas?)
   

Please see the attached photo's - they do exist. Clever idea of yours though to facilitate adjustment - its now on my list -  thankyou for this - another job 
Hope the photo's are resized correctly now - (Note to BDA, I was resizing on file size "Quality and Pixels" as opposed to "Percentage" - so hopefully these are better.)
Please note the photo's are not mine - I actually think one was posted by "Certified Lotus" on this forum and the other is of a Europa being rebuilt for a customer at Spyder Engineering, UK.     

[TurboFource]

4129R,
Do you have a pic of your adjustment setup?

[S2Zetec54]

4129R,
Do you have a pic of your adjustment setup?

…yes please, intrigued to see this good idea

[jbcollier]

Just google:  "emergency cable rubber boot"

Lots of options out there.

[4129R]

4129R,
Do you have a pic of your adjustment setup?

I would have to take a rear wheel off and it is cold and wet outside tonight.

Take a 1/2" UNF nut and drill out part of the thread with a 13mm drill to give clearance over the 1/2" cable outer.

Cut a 3mm slot in a flat on the nut with an angle grinder, to make the nut C shaped, so it will fit over the cable inner wire.

Pull the cable outer out of the trailing arm. Put the nut over the cable inner to space the outer away from its retaining C bracket on the trailing arm. You have now effectively made the cable inner 1/2" shorter on one side. You can do this on the other side to make the cable 1" shorter. For smaller spacers, either grind the nut down, or use a thinner nut.

I am surprised the cable outer is not threaded with a nut on it to do this with a fine adjustment. You can probably safely space out 3/4" each side without pushing the cable outer completely out of the C bracket on the trailing arm.

I find it much easier to adjust the cable outer on the trailing arm, rather than 2 x 1/2" spanners down the black hole, where there is only room for 1 hand.

When it is warm and dry, I can provide a photo. Remind me in warm weather.

[TurboFource]

No pic necessary, thanks!

[4129R]

It took me 3 mins to make the nut.

I cannot fit it on the cable as it is a new cable and has not stretched yet.