The Zetec 'Ropacane

[Chuck Nukem]

  Switch to 400 grit here on out till your ready for color. 180 is to course and probably the reason you went thru 2 gallons.
   Those washer look like what is in the s/s kit.
Dakazman

Thanks for the feedback Dman. The 180/220 has brought it all pretty level for this second go around. I have a few little low spots to fill with spot putty before spraying again. I am not sure if the volume used was because of my change in spray technique (slowed down) or I got more comfortable with the 2.5 tip, but it drained out of the gun, and before I knew it I had put one coat down and I was already one gallon deep. I am pushing this layer with sanding until I flatten out or hit high spots to ensure that I have taken it down as far as I can. I think one more gallon should do me on this hi build of the TCS.

I am tempted to try the slick sand on the S1 for this next go around because I am still more comfortable with spraying it rather than the duratec. I am getting close to taking the mold off my other S1 tail section for grafting.

[Chuck Nukem]

My main door struggle appears to be the A pillar corners of the RH door. When everything else is within reasonable equilibrium the gap is totally gone on that corner. I have received advice that the seal will push this corner out and make it look better. Can anyone else relate their experiences with this particular spot? My body was a bit out of shape here and that will need correcting to clean up the corner joint as it transitions from window to door.

My hinge pin bobbins were slightly out of line in the RH door. I had to pull on the rod a little bit to get it to slide in. The LH side slipped right in and the gaps are more consistent there.

[Chuck Nukem]

Dman you were right about going ahead with higher grit. I started dusting with 320 and it is taking shape now. This will hopefully reveal the last round of low spots once I throw the guide coat down.

I used fiberglass reinforced filler to clean up the mismatch and gap issues here. Seems to be working well.

I also got the rear decklid close to primer shape today.

[Certified Lotus]

My main door struggle appears to be the A pillar corners of the RH door. When everything else is within reasonable equilibrium the gap is totally gone on that corner. I have received advice that the seal will push this corner out and make it look better. Can anyone else relate their experiences with this particular spot? My body was a bit out of shape here and that will need correcting to clean up the corner joint as it transitions from window to door.

My hinge pin bobbins were slightly out of line in the RH door. I had to pull on the rod a little bit to get it to slide in. The LH side slipped right in and the gaps are more consistent there.

The door gap needs to be as equal as possible all the way around. Otherwise you won’t be able to get a complete seal with the rubber weather stripping. Compensating for one part of the door only creates a different problem for another edge of the door. I hate to say this, but you might have to re-align one of the bobbins. Now I understand why you wanted to install the weather stripping for a test. I’m in agreement with you doing that now that I see the issue.

[BDA]

It just occurred to remind you to reinforce the upper corners of the A-pillar if you haven't already.

[Chuck Nukem]

My main door struggle appears to be the A pillar corners of the RH door. When everything else is within reasonable equilibrium the gap is totally gone on that corner. I have received advice that the seal will push this corner out and make it look better. Can anyone else relate their experiences with this particular spot? My body was a bit out of shape here and that will need correcting to clean up the corner joint as it transitions from window to door.

My hinge pin bobbins were slightly out of line in the RH door. I had to pull on the rod a little bit to get it to slide in. The LH side slipped right in and the gaps are more consistent there.

The door gap needs to be as equal as possible all the way around. Otherwise you won’t be able to get a complete seal with the rubber weather stripping. Compensating for one part of the door only creates a different problem for another edge of the door. I hate to say this, but you might have to re-align one of the bobbins. Now I understand why you wanted to install the weather stripping for a test. I’m in agreement with you doing that now that I see the issue.

I think you are correct. The way I have it now every other gap seems just about perfect on RH door. That top corner seems to be the only pinch point. I had to pull the rod toward the body to get the top bobbin in. That doesn't guarantee that the bottom bobbin isn't the offender, but it might suggest that the axis of rotation around the pin is tilted inwards toward the roof. I would think this would manifest itself in the bottom corner of the door too though... I will verify the angle of each bobbin once I get the door off.

Seals are on order so it looks like this part of the project is stalled for the moment. Good thing I have an S1 to restore

[Chuck Nukem]

It just occurred to remind you to reinforce the upper corners of the A-pillar if you haven't already.

On the windshield side? or on the door?

[BDA]

More on the door side but I would carry it over above the windshield. I think the fact that the corners of the windshield and door are close together is the problem.

[Chuck Nukem]

More on the door side but I would carry it over above the windshield. I think the fact that the corners of the windshield and door are close together is the problem.

I will do it. Mine don't seem to have any cracks yet, but the S1 was cracked there at the windshield side. The A pillar profile on the S1 has less geometry and is more prone to twist.

[Chuck Nukem]

I am playing around with the gap of RH a bit more and I think the best compromise is to sacrifice the door being proud in the body section's front upper corner to give the window pillar a better match to the windshield and roof. This means I need to dope the rear of the front fender a bit more with fiberglass filler, but I think this is the most straightforward fix. 

I felt so proactive when I was making mountains of filler dust while stripping this thing back to glass in 2014...now I wish I had paid attention to where all the filler used to be...

[Chuck Nukem]

Can't say I am enjoying the process of making these doors fit flush, but it is happening regardless...

Hope to be done in a few days so that I can continue to prepare for the final prime. So far no big surprises...other than the doors that is....

[Chuck Nukem]

Twin cam question for the experts!

Was any sealant, gasket, or rubber molding used when installing the chin spoiler and side trim on the special?

I have just about got the panel gaps where they need to be. I am trying my best to make sure everything else fits too!

[BDA]

I believe the chin spoiler was simply bolted on. By "side trim" I assume you mean the panels between the wheels under the doors. I believe they were held on by clips along the bottom, a pop rivet on either end, and double stick tape along the top. In addition, there was a strip of bright work that ran along the top. I have some original bright work (that needs some polishing and one needs a bit of straightening) if that interests you. I got replacement bright trim from r.d. enterprises and it came out nicely. IIRC, it is plastic with finishers on both ends.

[Chuck Nukem]

I believe the chin spoiler was simply bolted on. By "side trim" I assume you mean the panels between the wheels under the doors. I believe they were held on by clips along the bottom, a pop rivet on either end, and double stick tape along the top. In addition, there was a strip of bright work that ran along the top. I have some original bright work (that needs some polishing and one needs a bit of straightening) if that interests you. I got replacement bright trim from r.d. enterprises and it came out nicely. IIRC, it is plastic with finishers on both ends.

That is exactly what I needed to know! Thanks BDA. I am missing the bright work. I will send you a PM.

[Chuck Nukem]

UK Twin cam owners I have a favor to ask.

Could you give me approximate turn signal measurements for the Lucas L734 placement? I need to drill the body before the last prime. Progress is coming!