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Thoughts on TCS Brakes

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surfguitar58:
Here's my $.02 worth. I bought my TCS with boosters removed and no changes to the MC. My first drive was scary as hell, I thought I had no brakes! I had all sorts of plans to re-sleeve the MC to a smaller bore, or swap a different MC, but after driving the car for a few months, I got used to stabbing the pedal with authority and the brake upgrade gradually slipped down the priority list.

Another approach you may want to consider if simply drilling a new hole for the brake clevis 3/8 inch closer to the fulcrum. I can't find my original notes, but I think that works out to something like a 35% force increase. You would also want to raise the pedal assembly by 3/8 inch also to keep the line-of-action in line with the MC centerline to prevent off-center forces from scoring the MC wall, but that is an easy do also.

Tom

Bryan Boyle:

--- Quote from: Kendo on Thursday,March 10, 2022, 10:02:19 AM ---JeffBatt, on my TCS without boosters (thanks, PO) I replaced the master with a 0.7" dual circuit master. It works great, and I haven't tried newer, better pads yet. Just saying your 0.075 might be too large.

--- End quote ---

which cylinder did you go with?  Still sussing this out while rebuilding my strombergs (and finding head scratching 'why did the PPO think this was a good thing to do?')

69merc:
I’m going to go the route of surfguitar58 with my TCS.  Trying to keep it simple.  I made 2 small brake line jumpers fitted at the ends of the original lines that enter the engine bay.  Brake pad material makes a big difference on brake feel (I’ve tried many on my track day car).  Since I’ve never driven this car, I’ll see how the brakes feel and go from there (it might be just right :confused:).

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