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FS/WTB: Europa Parts and Stuff / FS - Seat Belt Mounting Brackets for TC/TCS
« Last post by Sveris on Today at 02:15:22 PM »
New pair no longer needed. Will not fit S1 or S2.
$72 plus tax and shipping.

Steve in Ohio
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Garage / Reassembling the TCS doors
« Last post by Kendo on Today at 02:14:38 PM »
I'll be reassembling my TCS doors soon and have a few questions.

1) If I hang the door with no hardware and get a good gap all around, will it sag when I add the weight of the windows and motors? Or is it pretty stiff?

2) Someone described disassembling the motors to clean them up. Does anyone have a link to that discussion? It involved releasing that big spring, so I want some guidance in doing that.

(I know I've seen this before, but can't find any search hits.)
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Garage / Re: Anyone using aftermarket seats?
« Last post by EuropaTC on Today at 01:28:47 PM »
The seats from the Elise might work but you'd have to make/modify custom seat runners to fit. They are narrow and basically just a fibreglass shell with minimal padding and, IMO, far too expensive for what they are ! I'd expect it would be cheaper to restore the Europa originals than buy s/h Elise seats.

I have seen similar shells sold as kit car/competition seats which would probably work, something like this;

https://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/products/fibreglass-low-side-high-back-seat-shell-grp

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Garage / Re: Anyone using aftermarket seats?
« Last post by TurboFource on Today at 12:41:32 PM »
I am “Chapman” sized …. But would still like the seat to be able to slide all the way back….
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The Paddock / Re: Lotus Europa 16V Gordini
« Last post by BDA on Today at 12:27:54 PM »
Great pictures, Mecky! And great report on your race at SPA!

Regarding your competition, it appears the classification system over there is as hostile towards Lotus as it was over here when I was racing in the late ‘70s (Europa TCs competed against Datsun, now Nissan, 240Zs, 260Zs, and 280Zs).

You got two very honorable seconds. I think you did well and much better than in the past! Congratulations on big improvements all around!  :beerchug:
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Garage / Re: Anyone using aftermarket seats?
« Last post by Kendo on Today at 12:20:27 PM »
I have never seen anyone here find one that fit and could slide all the way back (in case you are a taller sort).
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Garage / Anyone using aftermarket seats?
« Last post by TurboFource on Today at 12:08:11 PM »
As I want to drive TCST instead of heading down the path of major rusty seat rebuilding, is anyone running aftermarket seats? If so, what ere they and how are they?

The original seats may go on a shelf for future me to deal with.
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Garage / Re: Output shaft leaks and a bad memory
« Last post by FourLoti on Today at 11:43:22 AM »
Well, I think I found the problem, but not sure why I have it. As seen in these videos, the new R&D square O-ring appears to have virtually no sealing power - as far as I can tell. Unless I'm way off on how I installed them?

I mentioned earlier that based on other accounts I expected to have to work hard to get the sleeve to seat on the ring, but yet felt no resistance. Just to make sure I'm not missing something, I took these videos and would greatly appreciate knowing if this is the way it's supposed to be. Then again, it's not supposed to be leaking heavily so, putting two and two together!!

Anyone have any similar experience with these parts? Or, better yet, any good experience with other available rings? In the meantime, I'm going out to look locally for a replacement, but am not too hopeful.

Thanks,

Ron

https://youtube.com/shorts/GxeEhfBK3iw

https://youtu.be/0-OutrJWWL0

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Garage / Re: 5 speed leak
« Last post by FourLoti on Today at 09:25:26 AM »
No. The cable end pulls out of the plastic "guide" (# 32 in the diagram below)  However, you first need to remove a small bolt that acts as a locking pin for both the cable end and the guide. It's inserted through the rear of the trans mounting plate - see photo. Took me a while to figure out why I couldn't pull out the cable, but once removed, everything else can be removed. Then it's a matter of fitting new O-ring and inner seal. Hopefully, your plastic guide won't be deformed around the o-ring lip. Mine was, and I read somewhere this often happens since that gear area is the first to be exposed to heat as the fluid level drops.

Note, that locking screw is normally a hex head metric (4mm?) bolt with a thin jam nut added. The idea is to screw it in just until it engages the holes in the sides of the guide and cable end and then tighten the jam nut. My original bolt was damaged and I happened to have that phillips head screw on hand.  Actually easier to insert and lock than a hex head, FWIW.  Good luck!.

https://rdent.com/manuals/europa/tcparts/transmission/fl.htm
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Garage / Re: Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by BDA on Today at 08:10:07 AM »
Quote
BDA - I bet you say that to all the guys

Yep!

Johnn, the usual problem people have posting pictures is resizing. Here’s one way of doing that: https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1379.0

Another way is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_55eg00H-w Use the snipping tool to save a part or all of your picture and post that.
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