The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[jbcollier]

I would not use loc-tote or sealer.  I would also go with aluminum sealing washers over copper.

[Richard48Y]

Do we have a source for aluminum washers?

[TurboFource]

McMaster-Carr has them.

[Richard48Y]

Applied epoxy to the remains of the FI vacuum switch.
Set the "Lotus" valve cover on the head and realized that there are several voids next to it that will be traps for road grime.
Anyone ever fill these with something, and if so, what?

[Richard48Y]

Finally got the new shaft seals installed on the Webers. 
I used Dielectric grease instead of regular grease.
I do not remember where I saw that suggestion, it is supposed to last longer.
Now I may complete the rest of the rebuilds.

[TurboFource]

Could you make a sheet metal cover for those voids?

[GavinT]

The voids behind the manifold studs aren't much of a problem if I recall and you'll need to get a spanner on the nuts there anyway.

My heads doesn't have those shallow 'voids' above the timing chain either - presumably that's an alternate feature on some heads. Mine also don't have that little coolant outlet between #3 and #4 ports.

[dakazman]

  I just made an aluminum plate for the one sensor but may run it all the way .
 Just haven’t gotten back to this engine lately.
Dakazman

[Richard48Y]

Lots of variations in these heads, mine does not have that sensor location.
The bottoms of the voids are very rough and deep.
I think I may partially fill them so that they are at least smooth enough to be easily cleaned out.

[Richard48Y]

You would think parts prices would no longer shock me.
But $100.00+ each for simple K&N filter assemblies has.
So instead of replacing the the old bright yellow painted pieces I have stripped them back to bare metal.
Whoever painted them scuffed up the chrome, so I will be painting them again.
I am not really a big fan of chrome in places where it is difficult or impossible to polish so avoid it for almost anything but bumpers.
I will probably paint these to look like aluminum.
And if I ever get the "Spare time" I may just replace them with a fabricated aluminum air box.

My original cross-flow valve cover is also now surplus to my needs, I wonder if it has any value?
It would be good to offset some expense.

[Richard48Y]

Valve cover is sold.

Finally got all the old clear finish removed from my intake manifolds.
They did not look good with it flaking in some areas.
Manifolds are almost polished after all the wire brush work but I know they will tarnish quickly unless repainted.
Polished does not match the Webers so I will probably soda-blast them and apply a clear finish.

[Richard48Y]

Head rebuilt with trick reduced stem diameter valves, rockers and shafts rebuilt.
Hmm, new pushrods are Unobtanium, even Salv Sacco has no source for them.
So I asked around and found a company who will make new to order for $112.00 per set plus shipping.
Modern steel parts and a fraction lighter than original.
At five sets the price drops 15%, $95.20.
Which is less than the cost of a single new K&N air filter.

Group buy? 

[GavinT]

Renault16Shop has them listed (no idea re stock) at €24 each . . . so that $112 looks pretty good by comparison.

[Richard48Y]

Not sure why I have so much trouble locating parts at Renault 16 shop?
I was there just this morning, did not see pushrods.
They do list the lower timing gear I want and new sliders/tensioner.
Shipping pushrods from California to Nevada is probably cheaper too.
Mailing the samples off in the morning.

[Richard48Y]

Weber 40's rebuild would be complete if the last person to mess with them had done it right and the rebuild kits I bought had been more complete.
My kits did not include a new float needle and seat, fuel filters, or the pump rod gaskets. But they were still $35.00 each.
I will have to order those parts, the Redline Site is now terrible for finding them on line.
If they do not have them I will probably have to go to multiple sources, or wait about three weeks for The Dellorto Shop.

I would advise anyone contemplating a Weber rebuild to find the most complete kit available even if it seems overpriced.
If you cannot verify the contents in advance you should probably look elsewhere.
The cost and delay of chasing down niggling parts is ridiculous.

I did change out the main jets from 105 to 130.
Every reference I found says this should be much closer to correct.
My float levels were WAY off, so much so that I wonder if the DPO was trying to compensate for something?