Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: berni29 on Saturday,April 20, 2024, 02:13:53 PM
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Hello There
I shall be detailing the restoration of TCS R3940 here (please see into in members cars).
I have a couple of early questions please.
Where do I find the gearbox number please? The chassis plate says gearbox number is 3091. I have this number in the side of the gearbox (see pic below)
Also the engine chain tensioner (see pic below) seems to be in contact with the chassis.......
Many thanks
Berni
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Gearbox number is on the round plate in your second picture. In the silver portion.
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Tesioner on frame, sagging engine mounts, probably the trans mount too.
The simplest fix you will be doing.
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:trophy:
Now the fun begins!!
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Gearbox number is on the round plate in your second picture. In the silver portion.
Hello
Thank you. It looks thus, although its strange that it starts with a 35 but is clearly a 5sp.
Berni
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Tesioner on frame, sagging engine mounts, probably the trans mount too.
The simplest fix you will be doing.
Haha, you definitely speak the truth there. Actually on investigation the LHS mount does not even have bolts in it.
Berni
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Hi
Another thing that has surfaced is this damaged to the gearbox housing on the tail end, its where the reverse detent seems to be. The case where the shaft protrudes has broken. Please see picture of hole. Is this common? I know the number of the gearbox from the ID plate, but is it found on the box anywhere? I know where the type is, but I mean the unit number.
Many thanks
Berni
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I have never seen anyone mention this problem :confused:
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The tranny is a bit exposed to potential damage. When my car was new, I damaged the end cover of my 365. I believe I backed into a curb but it's been so long since then that I really don't remember the circumstances. As I remember, my damage was a little different from yours. I took my end cover to a motorcycle shop that did aluminum welding and they fixed it pretty quickly and easily. From the looks of yours, I'd expect it to be a pretty simple fix too.
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The tranny is a bit exposed to potential damage. When my car was new, I damaged the end cover of my 365. I believe I backed into a curb but it's been so long since then that I really don't remember the circumstances. As I remember, my damage was a little different from yours. I took my end cover to a motorcycle shop that did aluminum welding and they fixed it pretty quickly and easily. From the looks of yours, I'd expect it to be a pretty simple fix too.
Hi Guys
Thanks for the replies guys. The motorcycle shop idea sounds good. I know a very talented metalworker and hopefully if I bribe him with enough food he will fix it.
Berni
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Hi Guys
Another question please,
My car does not have a chin spoiler. But it does seem to have the holes for one. Did all TC's and TCS's have chin spoilers? I am guessing yes, which leads me on to the question, how hard to find are original ones?
Many thanks
Berni
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I got mine from Banks.
3 bolts, 5/16" UNC hold it on.
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Hi
Thanks, that looks like a good call. Do people ever paint them body colour so that they "disappear"somewhat I wonder.
Berni
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Anything that low is likely to get dirty and regular stone chips.
Therefore it needs to be easily repainted.
Your call, but black is easy to repaint, and does not need cleaning that often.
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Hello
Yes good point RE the stone chips. I guess it is quite body colour dependent. A yellow or white car will show the spoiler more than a black or blue car for instance.
The spoiler could always be covered in a protective film if painted I guess.
Food for thought! having said that, I have many more pressing Europa things to concern myself with in the short/medium term, thats for sure.
All the best
Berni
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I checked with the parts manual and a chin spoiler is not listed (unless I missed it!) but I know mine came with one. I'm pretty sure all the TCSs had them and I strongly suspect that all the TCs did as well.
All the ones I've seen from the factory were matte or satin black. I have seen where people painted them their body color. I guess some prefer that but I'm not a fan. If you're going for originality, matte or satin black would be correct but I doubt you'd loose many points painting it body color and if you sell it and the new buyer wants even more originality, they are easy to take off and paint.
I'm for your being happy having it the way you want! It is your car, after all!
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Hi BDA and all
I think matt black might work for me.
By the way, your windscreen surround, I would like to order some of the stuff you used (https://www.sportwing.com/Extruded-Moldings-Trim/AB10014-S-All-Brite-Molding) but sadly they will not ship internationally. I have some family in the US I might try to get them to take delivery and ship some to me.
Does anyone know if this stuff is available in the UK?
Are the corner pieces available? I can see Banks have the top ones.
Thanks
Berni
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CanonSami has some corners posted for sale in the sale section.
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Thank you for the pointer....... message sent.......
Berni
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While the windshield surround I got is ok, I'd only recommend it if cost is the primary concern. The original windshield surround is long out of production but I believe there are close copies that are available, or there used to be. r.d. enterprises used to sell (check with them to see if they still do) a copy that was a bit narrower than the original so they also sell corners to match. I'd also check SJ Sports Cars, Kelvedon Lotus, and Lotus Supplies.
The biggest downside to the Sportwing trim I got is that the windshield had to be glued in like a modern windshield The trim just covers the gap between the windshield and the body. The Europa normally uses butyl tape with the standard surround. I think because the Europa doesn't appear to be setup to use the current glued in setup (only my supposition since I know almost nothing about installing windshields), you're more at the mercy of the skill of installer. The guy who installed my windshield worked for literally the only shop in my area who would touch my car (that included shops that advertised windshield installation for classic cars). He complained the entire time he was working on it and did a mediocre (at best) job. I vowed if I ever needed a new windshield again, I would put it in myself. The butyl tape would have been a lot cleaner and possibly easier.
Obviously, you may not have the same experience with an installer as I did but the point I'm making is that I've read of several people installing windshields themselves by following the manual and using "stock" replacement parts. I think in the end, they probably got a much nicer result. They even likely saved money even though they bought the more expensive surround.
If you're still interested in the something like the Sportwing stuff, you might try searching for plastic car trim or chrome plastic car trim or similar. I'm sure there are suppliers for similar products in the UK.
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As I understand it, the modern urethanes work the same way as the butyl, just less messy and more effective. But I'm no windshield expert either.
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Kendo, you probably know more than I do here. If the modern urethanes you’re talking about are in a similar tape form, I suppose you could use either. The guy who installed my windshield used glue (urethane?) from a calk-type tube. In some places he used too much so it could have been a lot cleaner installation.
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Well, I haven't installed my spiffy new windshield yet (fingers crossed for this year). But my collected notes say the 3M product is quite good. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000146721/ (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/v000146721/) used with this primer https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065466/ (https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065466/)
And in verifying those links were still good, I ran across this instruction page from 3M.
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Oh, a lot of masking tape keeps the urethane more or less where you want it :) (Also, probably helps to have installed a few hundred to get the urethane bead the right size, experience I don't have...)
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The guy who did mine cut a large triangular slice out of the snout of the glue tube making a huge bead. Oddly enough, that huge bead was fine for most of the windshield but at a couple of places, there was too much or it was in the wrong place or something and it squished out.
Like I said, you probably know more about this than I but tape seems like an easier and cleaner way to go that to me doesn’t require as much skill or technique.
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Hi Guys
This is my windshield, it has already been bonded in, and not very well from the looks of it, so it will probably be coming out. Much like BDA's situation trim has been glued over the gap, but in my case it is black and somewhat mitred at the corners. The silver trim (as per BDA) would be a far better solution.
I found something similar on ebay here in the UK. Does anyone know the exact width of the standard original trim ?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231523879538?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D264422%26meid%3D6edcae73c3504818866df55f3d7fab79%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D145740401626%26itm%3D231523879538%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV2WithPurchRecall&_trksid=p4429486.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A2315238795386edcae73c3504818866df55f3d7fab79%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABEOTCWE7QHr6ZCa9OpLfG8e5nPpLtvrFOCvy%252Fdc92nlvXmSx8t6hiNZLY9e5xdN9RS0KnBwMKn3BIespmfNt9chvMZkc8VXZt9psIc1p6p6%252FP0ltcDYzwbY6osbFOlYij19pZqlVLcHjrc7NI0UCdgk0KXGN2rr5OsAXUn8UDJrqnCfXftYs2D3xPUW9yL2t77ZOUR5FfD%252Fcw76eN4UKrXt8nqfB%252FHKWSwCz8qdwBEyo9YwA1rnjzanL6m5ljdXbw0DuDLgwvOmmF3yp6GNNTXO2sPcI38DVtICoef9OEfimRwzBw90r6XDccBECzhfJdmENX6fSBDOu9nsfMqZ15HBkKjgYmzVUlQ8GUDKdRunlb%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4429486&epid=1362450825&itmmeta=01HW8TW88XSMCAWSTJ2C7A6CF6
Tks
Berni
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Oh, a lot of masking tape keeps the urethane more or less where you want it :) (Also, probably helps to have installed a few hundred to get the urethane bead the right size, experience I don't have...)
It just occurred to me to ask you to post some pictures of the steps and details of your windshield installation. I think a lot of others would be interested!
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I found something similar on ebay here in the UK. Does anyone know the exact width of the standard original trim ?
So you're interested in not taking your windshield off! Now I can understand!
The original windscreen surround was 1 1/8" across. The trim strip that you found on ebay looks like the same thing that I used which is 1" across. If you need corners, it looks like r.d. sells corners that might fit that narrower trim as their trim is 1" wide and they have matching corners. I'd call to make sure they are still available (they are still listed on their website) and if they think they would fit. Check their website for descriptions. Otherwise, the stock corners don't look bad if you have them or can get them.
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Hi There
I stripped out the seats, hoovered up the copious amounts or rat/mice and what ever droppings. The seats will be stripped to the bare frames and sent off for blasting and painting. Do people modify them in any way before restoration? Like solid bases or metal straps instead of the rubber webbing?
One of the bases has been recovered and I like the look of the more pronounced stepping/stitching. I did see a pair of seats that had been redone in this style but I cannot find the pictures. Does anyone remember or know who it was?
Is the cardboard on the firewall at the back of the engine look original?
Also I have included pictures of the paint chipping. Does it look original? It seems to have a lighter coat underneath in places. I'm really not sure. It looks pretty thin.
Many thanks for any thoughts!
Berni
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The firewall behind the seats was made from fibreboard. It gets wet and falls apart.
Dig out all the wet and crumbling fibreboard and replace with 12mm ply and fibreglass over to seal the edges.
Replace the rubber straps under the seats with upholstery webbing about 40-50mm wide.
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That crossover pipe arrangement between the carbs and engine head is not original. Might still work for all I know.
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The paint looks original to me. Time for a respray!
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VIN is written on door…I will have to look at mine closer …
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Yes, the VIN on my TCS was written on the top “shelf” under the window on both doors. That’s how I know that both my doors are original, even though the driver door was extensively damaged and repaired by a PO. Protip (actually, amateur…) scrape the paint out of the VIN casting so paint doesn’t “erase” it.