The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.

[Sandyman]

I personally would pull the plugs and spin her over with the starter. Change the oil and filter first.

[GavinT]

Just had another question pop up.
Is there a reasonable means to drive the oil pump without having to crank the engine?

Nope.
Crank drives the cam which drives the oil pump shaft.
You could remove the oil pump drive gear from the cam, but only after removing the head - probably not what you want.

[Gary t]

I used the seafome in the cylinders then I removed the oil pressure light switch made an adapter and pushed oil in at about 20 psi on the gauge. After about 30 liters same 5 liters over and over filtering between cycles. Then cranked with the plugs out. Seemed to work it starts great reasonable pressure after not running for 23 years

[Richard48Y]

MMO is in.
I have a remote oil filter so may be able to rig up an external pump?
Need some decent volume, a fuel pump would be too small.
More 'Net searching!

[jbcollier]

Go to your local pharmacy and ask for a very large syringe -- vets use them for giving medicine to large animals.  Tell them why or your neighbours will be giving you the strangest looks.  Disconnect the lines from the remote oil filter and push oil through both hoses.  One way will prime the pump, the other will fill the oil ways.  Now remove the plugs and spin it over on the starter (AFTER DISABLING THE IGNITION).

[Richard48Y]

Break my heart, the the tart won't start!

Alllllmost, but not quite.
A little help and I would probably have it running now.
By myself, not yet. 
Even after I treated her to 110 octane leaded without distilled corn syrup additive.
It was the only decent fuel I could find at short notice.
I really want to do a warm compression check.

This has been the most expensive temporary oil change I have ever done at about $40.00
Six quarts of oil, filter, bottle of ZDDP additive.

I bought a Sump Gun and used it to push oil into the remote filter lines then reattached them.
Of course I also filled the new oil filter before putting it on.

My shopping list is begun.
Choke cable and new air filters.
Yes, K&N do get petrified after sitting a couple of decades.

[Richard48Y]

Petty progress is still better than none.

Today I ordered two KNN-E-3341 K&N air filters from Summit Racing.
Then a pair of DCOE gasket sets and dash decals from Dave Bean.

Spending money is always progress, right?

[BDA]

Spending money is always progress, right?

Unfortunately, it is usually a critical first step!

[Richard48Y]

Unable to do much with the Europa at the moment as I have to reassemble the SBC 350 for my truck, and some quick home repairs before Winter arrives on Sunday.

But I have been able to make some observations. No evidence of ever having been hit but I do see what appear to be a couple of small patches.
Some competition history so probably not a total surprise.

What is a real surprise is how VERY thin some areas of the body are.
The flat area of the door sill bottom to where it turns up for the seal appears be about one single ply thick! No wonder I found a crack there.
So it now looks like this will be a body off job after all, so that I may add a little less lightness to a few places. 
I also want to add a second fuel tank and it seems that will also require removing the body.
Still hope to do a warm compression check before I do any dismantling.
New Weber gaskets should be here tomorrow so that I may do a quick cleaning.

[Richard48Y]

Disappointed the gaskets have not shown up.
I did get the Europa set up on dollies so that I may easily move it around on my own.
This also raised it just a bit for better access as I don't have to lean over as far.

[BDA]

Sanding (and everything, really) is a long process. Your gaskets will arrive in plenty of time!

[Clifton]

I also want to add a second fuel tank and it seems that will also require removing the body.

I would try driving around some first before committing to the extra work and weight of lugging around another 50 plus pounds of fuel. They get such good mileage due to the low weight that 8 gallons goes a long way even when you are hot rodding around.

[Richard48Y]

My nearest major highway for a long trip is Hwy. 50.
AKA, The loneliest road in America!
When you get into the very rural area's gas prices get to be an extra dollar a gallon.
Just because I have two tanks should not require that I fill both of them when not travelling.

[Richard48Y]

Spent most of the day cursing a foot of new snow and assembling the SBC 350 for my truck. The C30 flat-bed I was supposed to use for fetching the Europa.

I did find my small mirror on an extension.
So, block casting appears to be 2565520.81
Engine numbers of 821-02 and 7138.
Assuming I am reading them correctly in the mirror. 
I bet somewhere here these numbers will reveal the stock displacement.
Next time I get into the workshop I will try to compare to see if my engine block is original to my car.

Meant to take a pic of my brake MC, one line in, one line out, REALLY?!
That has to be upgraded, this is not a concourse build.
I do not see a booster anywhere either. Not that I expect it could possibly work with twin Webers and no vacuum.
Want/need dual MC's with a bias bar but the Banks unit is crazy expensive.
Even worse being on the wrong side of the exchange rate.
I have a mill, lathe, and welders.
As much as I now prefer to buy when possible to conserve precious time, I think I may have to make my own setup.

Also found some odd chunks of open cell (Insulating type?) Foam glued onto the inside area behind the LH headlamp. Thinking this may have been used as a backing for a repair. Have to remove the current primer to see what I truly have.
Also appears the PO may have deleted front corner markers.
I like a clean body as much as anyone but a very small and low light blue car is not exactly glaringly obvious to soccer mom's.
So I expect to restore them. Perhaps I can find a flush fit set?
Another reason to pull the body. 

Also need to take a good look at some interior details as apparently there is supposed to be some sort of vent system above or below the rear window?

Speaking of rear windows, I have an original but it is heavily tinted.
Not certain if it is the glass of something that was applied and might be removed.

More glass observations, I notice that the lower corners of my original windshield are um, warped.
They clearly curve the wrong way to be consistent!
Perhaps the mold was damaged at the time, but there are two molds for safety glass so both would have to be damaged the same.

[BDA]

Lockheed makes a replacement to the original Girling boosters if you want. A lot of people like using a smaller master cylinder without a booster. Of course, a dual M/C setup gives you a lot more flexibility. I would think that if you have some machine tools and can weld, you should be able to make your own. There is at least one set of plans for a tandem setup here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13bJcEUU9KWMnbB8FJ95qiq_rk6qD-uf4