The Zetec 'Ropacane

[Chuck Nukem]

I was about to say she was looking pretty good and then I saw the last picture! Did you not wash the car well enough before you shot the primer?

Thanks!! Those are the pin holes that are everywhere in the fiberglass. I washed it with acetone and wax and grease remover. These have been pretty standard on every lotus panel I have painted thus far. After filling with glazing putty and sanding they go away nicely though.

[BDA]

My painting experience was short and a long time ago so I'm not the one to say, but it seems like you did what needed to be done and still got those pin holes. I hope and expect you're ok. What kind of paint are you using?

[Chuck Nukem]

My painting experience was short and a long time ago so I'm not the one to say, but it seems like you did what needed to be done and still got those pin holes. I hope and expect you're ok. What kind of paint are you using?

Thanks. Yeah I think everything is fine. I am using Evercoat slicksand polyester primer. It is pretty thick so I think that's why it is not finding its way in to all the little pin holes. We will see how it looks this weekend after a round of putty, filler, and a second coat! I am not worried at this stage.

[Chuck Nukem]

I couldn't resist throwing the bonnet and a freshly primed S1 door on it. Not bad if I do say so myself!!

[BDA]

Looks great, Chuck!

What I meant to ask before is what kind of paint are you using for your color coat?

[surfguitar58]

Very, very nice! I think primer gray is a perfectly good color, if you want to quit while you're ahead. 
t

[Chuck Nukem]

Looks great, Chuck!

What I meant to ask before is what kind of paint are you using for your color coat?

JPS Black! It was originally that color and I believe it was actually one of the numbered cars. It is a Dec '72 build date and there are numbers before and after mine. Unfortunately I don't have the little disc!!

Edit*

Sorry BDA I missed the point of your question.

After all this primer work is done I will seal with 2 coats of SPI epoxy.

I am planning to use SPI two stage urethane color/clear. That's what I used on the truck and it worked well. They don't have a lot of color choices, but black is one of them. For the price they make a good product.

[Chuck Nukem]

Very, very nice! I think primer gray is a perfectly good color, if you want to quit while you're ahead. 
t

Thanks Surf!! If it had wheels on it I would be more tempted than I am already...

[dakazman]

  Nice job Chuck,  I like the clean look of the shaved side lights. Did someone say,... BLACK,,,Black is a good color!!! ,Wow a real JPS.
Dakazman
 

[Chuck Nukem]

  Nice job Chuck,  I like the clean look of the shaved side lights. Did someone say,... BLACK,,,Black is a good color!!! ,Wow a real JPS.
Dakazman

Thanks Dman!! You picked up on one of the key details I am thinking about putting the Lucas L734 turn signals like the S1. It does look clean with nothing though...I am following in your footsteps on the blackness!

I am also thinking since I am molding a boot and bonnet for the S1 to make replacements...I might mold my set of S1 doors just in case I want a very clean looking TC. I am really taken by the clean lines of the early windows and lack of door handles. It also opens the door for unconventional materials... Depends on how long this lockdown lasts... My list of projects is growing exponentially!

[dakazman]

  Chuck , that was my plan years ago but other to - do projects got in the way. Time is a commodity that disappears fast.  It’s easier to repair a door than form it , unless you have no other options.
 Boot and bonnet a little easier. I tried to buy a bonnet and the cost of shipping was the deal breaker, so I understand why you want to make them.  I posted a few months ago two complete S1 doors free to pick up in Texas . The guy was going to trash them. ☹️
  Good choice with the smaller L234 👍👍
 
   Keep blocking the primer with a contrast agent. Get it out in the sun and let it dry. If you have heat lamps use them also.
Dakazman

[Chuck Nukem]

Thanks Dman. I am trying to wait 1-2 days of cure before sanding and recoating each panel. This may be excessive though as I have heard that one of polyester primers big advantages is that it does not shrink like urethane hi build which means you can turn the panel around faster.

Ah crap yes I remember those doors... In hind sight I should have gone to Houston to get them, but its about an 8 hour round trip. The boot and bonnet are necessary, but more than that I really want a chance to exercise my molding ability. I have never done a large panel and I want a crack at it. Doors seem like fun because they are 2 part molds. It's a rabbit hole project for sure...

How long would you wait after fiberglassing a part before priming it? I am giving it about 1-2 days as well. Im using a 404 isopthalic poly resin that seems to work well.

[GavinT]

G'day Chuck,

Just one hint on moulding large panels.
After the layup on the donor door, be sure to glass on a reinforcement frame of some sort.
The idea is to make the mould rigid so that any subsequent parts taken from the mould aren't distorted.

The reinforcing frame can be made out of anything that's rigid. I've seen them made out of plumbing pipe which is not pretty, but entirely satisfactory.
For extra points, make the frame such that the mould can sit flat on the workbench.

This guy's work seems pretty good to me.

http://www.sceadu.com/support_fiberglass.html

[dakazman]

  All I can say is check with the mfg recommendations on the sanding. 

Just a longshot, maybe you can trace Them down.
Dakazman

[surfguitar58]

Will you be making your molded parts in polyester/fiberglass, or will you be "adding lightness" and going epoxy/carbon fiber? You might even find you have a cottage industry producing CF parts for weight obsessed Europa owners, once you have the molds.
Tom