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Nick74R...Pics

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Nick74R:
Hi Brian,

Thanks for kind comments - certainly rocker arm at the rear is better for it keeps the spring/shock out of the air, is more adjustable with addition of the push rod (LH thread one end, RH thread the other), plus it keeps the thread for the spring seat on the shock a lot cleaner if it's not subject to all road/track grim that could otherwise be thrown at it.  Because my alloy rocker arms are not concentric, ie the centre of the shock bolt is near to the pivot bolt than the push rod bolt, the shock travels less distance in its movement under compression/decompression. On steel shocks the thread tends to be much finer and the adjustable spring seat can seize (unless liberally coated with copperslip or the like). Plus it looks good too!

Nick.

EuropaTC:

--- Quote from: Nick74R on Saturday,December 23, 2017, 08:09:57 AM ---Because my alloy rocker arms are not concentric, ie the centre of the shock bolt is near to the pivot bolt than the push rod bolt, the shock travels less distance in its movement under compression/decompression. On steel shocks the thread tends to be much finer and the adjustable spring seat can seize (unless liberally coated with copperslip or the like). Plus it looks good too!
--- End quote ---

Ahh - I didn't get that from the photos, but I can see where it comes in.

I wondered if it was just about resolving the loads which does look an advance over the OEM set up but I hadn't picked up on the suspension movement options. That's a cute idea compared to the original where the damper reflects the wheel movement at the same ratios.  I can see where that might come in for a track or race car.  Thanks for the explanation.

Serge:
Very pretty and the quality of the work looks excellent!

Serge

dakazman:
Welcome to the forum Nick.
I’m all most at a loss for words because so many questions keep coming to mind .

You excelled at bringing this half century old car a modern but retro , clean, machine.

We hope you take some time to share your details . We will not be bored.

Dakazman

Nick74R:
Some more pics of my Twincam restoration in reply to Skippopotamus' question on Nigel's thread...

Firstly, the arrowed area you have highlighted is the lefthand blanking panel I made out of GRP to cover the end of each sill area (did this on both sides) and you can see this in the first picture where it has been refaced (white) and then rubbed down. To achieve this I first cut a piece of GRP sheeting and trimmed it to fit each end of the rear sill, and with the smooth side polished and facing outward, glued them into place using a hot glue gun. Next step was to lay up 2 layers of 400g GRP matting and let cure. Then I cut the large hole in each the size of the rubber bung. This bung incidently is the one originally fitted up the front on top of the tunnel to cover the handbrake arm. The next bit was the fiddly part as it was a question of separating the new matting with the original glued on GRP piece, then breaking that up into pieces to retrieve through the hole.
Finished off by sanding the inside, refacing the outer and sanding down.
The purpose of each hole is to allow access to the rear of the door striker plate bolts.
A fiddly job, but a very satisfying one when completed!
The other pictures show what I was left with once the old rear end had been cut off and a new section (coloured black) grafted into place.

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