First Blat in the S1

[jbcollier]

Had the S1 out for the first time this week.  No trouble literally burying the needle on the 200 mph speedo!

(Note to self: calibrate the speedo)

Very happy with how the 807-13 runs: decent idle, good torque low down and a nice high rpm hit as the intake, exhaust and cam reach their happy place.

The cable shifter works a treat.  It's a little notch-y when you're messing around in the driveway but on the road it all just disappears.  Though it's a tight gate, there is a much larger step to get to reverse so absolutely no issues finding second on a downshift.

When calibrating the speedo, I went the wrong way at first and travelled 60+ miles in about two wheel revolutions!  Once headed in the right direction, the Smiths electronic speedo was easy to dial in.  I'm using a 200 mph speedo calibrated to read in kilometres.

Just starting the carb jetting phase.  Started with 7772.5 emulsion tubes but felt it was a bit rich in the mid-range so then went to 7772.8 tubes.  Sweet, so I went next to 7772.10 tubes and started to get some missing in modest throttle applications.  Back to the .8s.  Main jet is at 118 and it all runs sweet but just a tad on the rich side: perfect for running in.

Can't recommend running without front and rear windows.  Sets up a venturi effect that tries to suck the passenger seat out!  At not that high speeds the leading roof edge starts vibrating in a way that had me concerned I'd develop cracks.

Looks a bit odd grinning like a loon while driving like a maniac with one hand steadying the lip of the roof!

Ta for now,

John

[BDA]

Congratulations John!!

That's great news! That sounds like a very successful maiden run!

[Grumblebuns]

Major milestone and congrats.

I've had two out of three successful first time around the block shake down runs. The third one, my S1, came home on a flat bed tow truck. Smoked the wiring harness about 100 yards from my driveway. I managed to pull off the battery cable before any other damage was incurred.

Now the fun part starts, getting all of the little detail work done.

[3929R]

SWEET!!

[Gmg31]

Can't wait to be able to say the same, you've spurred me on, well done

[blasterdad]

  Sounds like a safe bet you didn't get to try out your new AC...  Congratulations!

[jbcollier]

True, AC isn't even charged yet.  It's on the list!

Yikes!  Sorry to hear about your harness.  Did you find out what the cause was?

[tgx]

John I had a friend from Germany that had an S2. The leading
edge of his windshield was problematic at speed as well.
Apparently on one spirited run the windshield
became dislodged and came into the car. Fortunately it wasn't
a catastrophic fail but it was unsettling for him. He never
embellished on a solution to the issue. I'm guessing some additional
bonding with the seal. Others that I have heard discussing the issue
have speculated that the mounting lip on some cars may be insufficient
or that replacement glasses may be the culprit due to poor fit.

[jbcollier]

Made me smile.  I was running without a windshield so it was no surprise that not-particularly-strong roof was not happy at all.  I'll report back once the windshield is in place.  Just finished fitting the headliner, dash cover and a-pillar trim so hopefully soon.

[BERNIEHUMBER]

HI:I just read of your "Very happy with how the 807-13 runs" and have to ask a question.
I have not as yet assembled the lower of the 807-13,what in your experience, is the most critical(or difficult) potion of the rebuild?
I rebuilt the 1470 in my S2 oh 30 years ago and remembered the wet cylinder /dial indicator to get the correct projection of the sleeves above the block for a leak free existence but that experience was so long ago the the process is a blur.
I have the Haynes for general stuff but any "learn from experience" info would be appreciated.
Thanks

[jbcollier]

Nothing too special but here are some general and specific notes:

General practice:

- keep parts together that work together.  Mark rods, pistons and sleeves. Keep followers, pushrods and rockers in order.  These parts have already "worn" to a perfect match so don't mix them up.

- clean, clean, clean and then clean again.  Lots of places for crap to hide!

- clean?  Then wrap them in lint free rags and plastic bag 'em until needed.

- use silicone sealer SPARINGLY. Globs can work free and plug oil passages.

- pack the oil pump with petroleum jelly (vaseline). Do NOT use grease as it plugs the oil filter.

- double check ALL clearances.  Machine shops and manufacturers do not often make mistakes but that is not the same as saying they never do.

- if you port your head be careful not to lower the floor of the intake port.  This would "visually" seem to improve things but it actually sets the air flow going across the valve which significantly reduces total air flow.

- use a good quality assembly lube.  Sure the engine is going to be fired up right away but how many times have rebuilt engines been left to sit for years afterwards?

- ALWAYS use a specialty cam lube on the cam and lifters.

- fitting high compression pistons or a wild cam?  You need to check for clearance between the piston and the head at TDC and between the valves and piston.

- all Renault engines do not take kindly to overheating.  Maintain the cooling system properly.  Always bleed the system after working on it.  Investigate issues before they become problems: that is, STOP if the coolant gauge goes out of its normal range.

- pistons need to be oriented properly.

- use a light grease on the sealing lip of all oil seals.  That's the only lube they'll see until they start failing.

807 specific:

- fitting new pistons and rods? Assemble the bottom end and check that they clear each other at BDC before sending the parts out for balancing.

- use oil-proof silicone sealer on the rubber head gasket seal.

- you MUST check cylinder protrusion: no ifs and/or buts.

- fitting high compression pistons means you must regularly re-torque the cylinder head and readjust the valves.  Follow the recommended maintenance schedule for the 807-20 engines.

- aftermarket alloy oil sumps can be porous.  Get it properly sealed before it's contaminated with oil.

- if you fit an oil cooler, which you should, use an electric pump to fill the system before first start up.  I take off the hose on the block outlet and pump oil until the oil pressure gauge registers 20# or so.

[BDA]

Thanks for the great advice, John.

To amplify your point about silicone sealers, I remember when I was racing - back in the dark ages - a prominent team in our area had a problem where they couldn't get their car to start. They found the float bowls empty and followed their fuel system to the tank. Everything looked good till they pulled a hose off the tank. It was clogged with silicone sealer! They finally pulled a rope of silicon that went from the tank to their pump!

Silicon sealers are resistant to oils and fuels but there is a point where it will soften and can cause problems. You don't need to use much for any legitimate application.

[BERNIEHUMBER]

HI:Thanks for the info!!!A couple of years ago I rebuilt my 260 that I have in a Tiger but those Fords don't have wet sleeves so its one less thing to worry about.When I did the 1470 I didn't use any sealants on the lower sleeve seals and its not leaked to this day so I am not sure whether to do that procedure on this build.

The engine came to me in pieces so its impossible to find out which series of components matched which.I understand the wear fit issues but...
The crank was reground to a new set of rod and mains and what would be nice to find is a clear easy to follow method of setting up the valve timing.
I will be doing a lot of hand cranking to make sure of no piston/vale interference.

I used to(back in the day) put Plasticine on the piston heads and hand crank the assembled unit to make sure of clearances.

Retirement is looming so my Black Bomber,Tiger and Lotus will receive some quality time as I am sure my wife will want me out of her hair.

Thanks again for your time in responding to my queries.