Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: TurboFource on Saturday,October 24, 2020, 06:48:24 PM
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My First Europa is a one owner, never wrecked 73 Twin Cam Special (it even has the ashtray).
Came with lots of information, documentation, manuals etc. A complete restoration is needed as it has been sitting for over 40 years (on pavement and covered).
It also has something "special" under the hood, a Schwitzer 3LD turbo (thus the T after TCS) Piranha ignition, home made water/methanol injection, headers etc. This was all done back in 1975 so special engineering had to be done as turbos back then did not have seals on the compressor and they would allow oil to be pulled into the engine if they saw vacuum.
It was estimated to make over 200hp.
The first owner was CWTech who is a member here. Lots of interesting engineering was performed by him to make this system work with the limitations of what was available back then. I plan to upgrade and simplify the system with a more modern turbo with the required compressor seal and a waste gate as they tried to limit boost back then by the size of the exhaust housing or restricting things. I will restore the original system and save it as it rather interesting.
The car has a sunroof (which I may leave) but CWTech saved the roof cut out thankfully. The frame appears to be solid except for the bottom of the T-section, all the metal around the suspension points seems solid when poked with a scribe. I will first remove the body to repair and preserve the frame and redo all the running gear. Then interior, aesthetics will be last in case I run out of funds and have to save again. This will not be a concours restoration (though I am picky) but will be built to be driven! I will do all work myself as the budget is a concern ( no paint job that costs many times what I paid for the car!)
CWTech is a great a guy and I hope he posts more about the history of the car!
I guess it is fitting my first Europa is turbocharged since I go by TurboFource 8)
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That sounds like a really interesting project, Turbo! I look forward to seeing more about it along with some pictures!
Keep us up to date!
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The turbo system is draw through which was pretty much the norm in the 70s. He tried a side draft Weber first and had great difficulty getting the jetting right. He switched to a single Stromberg CD175 with a different needle and said that worked quite well. My research shows this carb is good for about 250hp draw through and much more blow through. Interestingly, Volvo sold a blow through set up in Europe using this carb.....
In order to monitor things there are boost gauges for intake and exhaust pressure, I believe there are 6 thermocouples that are displayed on a dash gauge using a rotary switch to select which thermocouple is being used.
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I remember a turbo kit and as I remember, it used a single Stromberg. Somebody will probably have an old brochure on it.
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-Fh9dQqd/0/93faaf23/X2/IMG_4032_heic-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-XKjCh5g/0/d4727312/X2/IMG_4034_heic-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-GP4gm9r/0/8a8fd838/X2/IMG_4035_heic-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-G2DkBc8/0/dc670e7f/X2/IMG_4036_heic-X2.jpg)
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That's what I remembered! Thanks for posting that, JB! I had forgotten is was done by Checkpoint America - I believe it was started by Dan Gurney.
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Nice! I like the part "will out accelerate a Daytona Ferrari from 0 a 120 mph"!
CWTech did not use a kit , he did (or had made) all the parts he used.
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My first challenge will be trying to get a jack under a Europa with four flat tires.....
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As far as Checkpoint America, I don't believe Dan Gurney had any involvement. ...Back in 1974, when I spoke with them, it was owned by Bob (Vanderhoof) or (Vanderhoot). [CRS strikes again!] :headbanger:
The Checkpoint America conversion was not sold as a kit. ...Turbo installations had to be done by them. ...That is why I designed my own.
Checkpoint America used a Rajay turbo, which did have a seal on the suction side. ...Air Research also had a small turbo which used a seal on the suction side. ...At that time, it was very difficult to purchase a single turbo, as those companies wanted to deal on a larger scale.
Crane Cams (in Hollandale, Florida) was just getting into the turbo business and selling components. ...They were in process of developing kits, but that never progressed. ...I became a Crane distributor (long story) and was able to buy direct from them. ...They used Schwitzer turbos, which had a "piston-ring" type seal on the suction side, and were not good if subjected to high manifold vacuum.
The Schwitzer turbo was fine for a blow-thru (the carb) system, but weighing the pros & cons, I wanted a draw-thru system ...I incorporated a design to isolate the compressor side of the turbo from manifold vacuum, yet it could still "free-wheel" to reduce turbo lag.
Back then there was little information about turbocharging available. ...Many people that knew wouldn't talk, and many people that talked, didn't know! ...I learned a lot through trial & error.
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First challenge accomplished, it was quite fun to get a jack under with four flats. Now on four dollies😉
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Checkpoint American was also known as Dan Gurney’s Checkpoint America - a ‘sort of’ franchise operation. I bought my 74 TCS from Checkpoint America in 1978. The guy who owned it will remain nameless. When I asked ‘nameless’ if the car ever had any body damage, he paused, stroked his chin and said no - $6500 later the car was mine. About 10
years later I had an attack to brain fade and drove into the woods about one block from our house - necessitating a new frame. Upon removing the body from the frame I discovered the original frame had undergone a ‘body off’ repair - ‘nameless’ strayed from the truth. Came to find the fellow who repainted the car possessed the truth and passed it on to me - he was a fellow Lotus Espirit owner and a member of the local Lotus club. Love the car regardless’
Tom
74TCS - 4605R
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TCST also has an oil pan of increased capacity, adjustable lower links, electric fuel pump, hotter coil, cartridge style water pump (CW designed this), And Koni shocks (hopefully these are still good). CWTech saved everything he took off the car like emissions stuff etc.
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Since I have not taken a wrench to my Europa yet I was curious if all the hardware is "standard" or metric?
Is there a list of what the original color of the various chassis components etc. are supposed to be?
What are the best places to get part for chassis renovation (suspension, brakes etc.?).
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Everything except the tranny (and Webers and Delortos) are English.
IIRC, the frame and suspension was matte black.
Front suspension parts can be hard to find. You may have to rely on tubular reproductions.
IIRC, brake cylinders and calipers are still available either from the usual suspects (r.d., Bean, lotus-supplies, SJ Sportscars). Master cylinders are more of a challenge.
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I would love to see pictures of this Turbo Europa! I do remember seeing the checkpoint Europa years ago during my research and restoration of my own Europa TCS.
Good luck with the restoration - Plenty of great people here that will guide you in the right direction.
:ttiwwp:
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I just reminded myself that you are considering turbocharging your car. I think with the increase of performance, you should upgrade your brakes too!
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BDA, it was turbocharged in 1975 😉
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Seat removal......the seats don't seem to slide...will put some more effort into persuading them.... In anticipation of trouble I have read that people cut off the bolts from underneath, there is nothing protruding through the seat bobbins on my TCS, are the bobbins threaded? The bolt threads appear to be flush with the bottom of them. If they are threaded, is it possible to reach the rear bolts from underneath the seat?
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On the TCs, the seats sliders are bolted into floor bobbins. With my seat removal process, I was able to slide my seats all the way forward off the bottom slider to access the four bolts.
If your sliders are rusted in place, remove the bottom seat cushion and see how accessible the four bolts are. If possible spray penetrating fluid on the seat sliders and bolts.
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Thanks! Hopefully that will work.
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I picked up my Pilkington windshields today, had them sent to the closest place that carried their brand, which involved a 5 hour round trip!
I asked for shaded if they had them......guess clear it is going to be! I will look to see if it can be matched with tint to the other glass when I get to that point.....
Not what I wanted to buy first but I am glad I didn't procrastinate on this!! Many thanks to Marissa at Clearview Auto Glass in Baltimore for getting my order in ASAP and following up to make it happen!
Working on organizing my garage so I can get started!!
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Couple pics of turbo system and one of the water/methanol injection tanks and the pump, there is a matching water tank on other side. Lots of work ahead!
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Are the pics ok in size?
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Engine pic circa 1975
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Dash......has a couple gauges! And an ashtray ;)
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Pictures are great! It's a shame that people let their Europas get in such bad condition! You better treat her right!
What are all those gauges for?!!
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Intake boost pressure, exhaust boost pressure, exhaust temp (there are six thermocouples and you select which one is displayed with a rotary switch), oil temp, fuel pressure and vacuum I think....and the four standard gauges.
Popped oil cap and things look good, dipstick shows clean oil too.
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Me looking at Europa in February. It will not be brown when I paint it.
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Hi Turbo, It looks like you have an Iphone , just for fun take a picture and mail it to yourself. when it ask what size select just under 1mg say 800kb range or even 100kb. then go to your mail and SAVE it to your pictures . when posting here from attachments/choose file/recent and select the resized photo.
I love the turbo setup .
Cant wait for your pics on the paint job.
Dakazman
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I remember our first ride together Turbo. Keep that in your mind when your rebuilding her. I’ll be watching your progress in this post.
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I will Certified! It made a very positive impression I won't forget ;)
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So last night I scared myself by searching on best ways to store windshields and read a few horror stories about damaged windshields.....actually woke up thinking about it. So today's Europa related project was to build a wall rack to store my new windshields out of harms way. They are stored vertically with exercise mat foam at all contact points, wrapped by an old comforter, wood protective bumper and also cardboard barrier to stop anything that could get air born. The curved side of the windshield fits between the wall studs so they are as close to the wall as possible and they are as high under a wall mounted shelf as I could get them and still get them in the rack.....
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You should be set for a long time, turbo!
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I think squirrels were living in here at some point....
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Very common! There must be some communication channel that alerts squirrels that a Europa is a great place to set up house!
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Or something about nuts and Europa owners.
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I think you are on to something there Sandyman!!
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I think the pivoting part of my pedals are rusted away... :-\ is there a drawing of them with dimensions so I can fab that part of them?
I know Serge did a video, I will have to rewatch it.
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Couple more pics....
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I was all set to point you to Lotus-Europa Central master documentation page (a GREAT source of information) but it's unavailable. I truly hope that this isn't a permanent situation. It a valuable site!
However, our own EuropaTC saved and categorized all the files from the old lotuseuropa yahoo group here (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1uOmTsXhIF3qlutvCvmY8sAaliwc8Rwbj). Among those files is this page with drawings for fabricating your own pedal assy (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RE6xKmBQ1UNNfADyDYKkhPpZwlese3Oa).
Just a fun fact, the lotuseuropa yahoo group was completely migrated to a groups.io group (https://groups.io/g/LotusEuropa). It would be a good group to join (and several of us here are active over there as well).
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Thanks BDA!
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Are passenger and drivers seats the same and can be installed on either side?
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Yes.
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You have the jack/tool bag! Lots of those got thrown away.
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That bag is original? 😎 I will hang onto it then!!
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Yes.
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Early turbo manifold.....for side draft weber.....water injection point....floating discs between upper chamber and lower to create a "priority breather valve" to allow direct path from carb to intake until boost starts to build and then intake charge was drawn through turbo....I believe there were issues due to lack of compressor side seal...CW?
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Discs went here on the two shafts.....
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I think there are a LOT better ways to build turbo systems now.
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There are JB, just thought the pics were worth posting from a historical perspective...will take detailed pics of current system when I pull the engine. It will be upgraded when I rebuild the engine.
Made some minor progress today. Decided to I am going to pull the seats as they wont move and I can't reach the pedals, and pull the pedals because they need work, that way I can work on this stuff while the body is off and I am working on chassis etc. Will probably pull the doors too as the hinges need attention.
Well....since the seats won't move this is proving to be a fun task! Front two bolts came out but I am having to drill bolts out of the bobbins from underneath on the rear bolts. Tried to unbolt the seat from the track but they just spin. I ended up having to drill one size over tap drill size (I was off a bit) but I can always drill for 3/8-16 threaded holes. I had to stop as my cordless drill needs charged.
It is obvious the seats need rust repair too.......
Good thing I don't get upset easily!
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Are there drawings of the seats available?
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RD has replacement seats. I bought two for my TC. They are in pieces and assembled using pop rivits. My seats were so bad I didn't want to waste time trying to refurbishing them. I believe Ray still has them available
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Thanks.....don't have mine out yet....will see how bad they are.
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:o
Having trouble getting the damper out of the piston.....
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Yikes! It might be time for new carburetors!
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Heat the outside with an hot air gun and spray the piston with freeze spray — Dust Off upside down works very well.
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The piston came out of carb body and actually looks like it will clean up well, can't get the damper out of the piston.....have it soaking in penetrating fluid....I have the other carb since the turbo set up only uses one carb. Will try to save this one so I have a spare.
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I would suggest going to adjustable needles using "pistons" from a TR6 or TR7. You just need to swap the Lotus unadjustable needle (preferably Euro-spec) into an adjustable holder.
Change the needle jets! They wear and make the carbs difficult to set.
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Persistance, and patience and the damper is now out of the slide, cleaning up nicely considering....diaphragm isn't even torn....
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Boy those cleaned up great!
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Sheesh....... What a chore! Got drivers seat out!! :o
Some rust.....I think repairable.....
Some hidden treasures too.... 8)
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Terrific clean-up job on the carb! You have much more patience than I would in that situation.
Good luck on the rebuild!
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Aren't these supposed to be mounted to a bracket :confused:....wait, that pile of rust was
The bracket....... :help:
Boy are the pedals hard to reach for a short person like me!
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Pretty typical. You can buy them ready-made. It's also an easy fab if you have a welder.
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I think I will make my own with inexpensive and replaceable nyliner bushings.
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I used bronze bushings in mine and fit grease nipples as well.
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I am not sure my car is in the registry (3496R) , how do you add it?
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Drop Dan Morrison an email at danmo at yahoo dot com. He took over the site.
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My cheap HF furniture dollies with plywood addition allowed me to easily spin car around in garage to start removal of the other sear....
The plan is to spend Mondays and a couple of evenings a week working on the Europa.... Hope to have chassis and drivetrain gone through by the end of 2021.....
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Second seat extraction went quicker than the first....still had to drill rear bolts from underneath on this one, so still no fun. This seat has better sheet metal....some holes were drilled in the floor on this side so the water probably ran out.....
Second pic is more squirrel residue... :o
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It sounded easy, "remove 3 screws holding door handle and loosen clips and remove door panel" or something similar. Well the screws were too rusty to use a screwdriver, tried to drill and use an easy out.....ended up drilling the heads off. Going to be a long journey if every fastener requires this kind of effort😏
One door panel off and next task is to remove this door.....this looks fun too😬 See pic ....
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Just use a hacksaw between the door and the body, top and bottom. Much easier to deal with when the door is off,
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Hacksaw doesn't seem to fit.....did you mean sawzall?
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A sawsall is your friend if you have one. I used a hacksaw blade holder (see the attached picture).
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That's what I used as well. The blade is not fully supported so set it up so the teeth are cutting when you pull. Ease up when pushing back.
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I used a small compressed air grinder with a cut off wheel to cut thru the nuts and steel shaft inside the door to remove my completely rusted “hinge” assembly. There are pictures in my rebuild post.
It had been suggested to use a hack saw between the body and door. Even after taping everything it was evident that there might be some fiberglass repair needed afterward. I decided not to chance it and went the inside the door route.
Of all the work I did on my Europa, this was the most pain in the ass job of any. The second most was re-installing the doors and aligning them with new “hinges”.
Hmmmmm. Now that I think about it, installing the rear window was the most PIA job.........
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We will see how it goes, I bought some 9" long metal cutting sawzall blades today. Will try to avoid fiber glass damage but as the car needs paint it would not be that big a deal if some minor scrapes occur. Thanks for the advice everyone.....I know this will be challenging.....
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Has anyone with the all stainless hinge sets had any issues with galling? Stainless on stainless for moving parts can be troublesome.....
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I thought that would be a problem to but I have not heard a single complaint from anybody who has them.
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Has anyone with the all stainless hinge sets had any issues with galling? Stainless on stainless for moving parts can be troublesome.....
Hate to say this, but . . . given the pins likely don't move in the bosses, galling probably won't happen! ;)
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Has anyone with the all stainless hinge sets had any issues with galling? Stainless on stainless for moving parts can be troublesome.....
The potential for galling is the primary reason I have chosen to go with the brass hinge kit from Banks. The propensity for galling has a lot to do with the grade of ss used, and I’ve not heard of any problems so they are probably ok, but the environment in which they live and operating dynamics of the hinges seems it could potentially invite trouble. Having dealt with galling ss many times over the years, I avoid the material for such applications whenever possible. Once that stuff ‘picks up’, the moving parts are as good as welded together.
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The Banks brass setup has the additional benefit that once the door is aligned, you can take the door off an only the height needs to be adjusted.
I thought the Banks setup would be easier to set up but people who use r.d.'s hinges seem to get them adjusted pretty quickly so I'm not sure one is any easier than the other.
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We will see how it goes, I bought some 9" long metal cutting sawzall blades today. Will try to avoid fiber glass damage but as the car needs paint it would not be that big a deal if some minor scrapes occur. Thanks for the advice everyone.....I know this will be challenging.....
I've done eight separate door's to date...they all sucked!
Take the sill (If you have one) off
Get the smallest palm grinder/cutter wheel you feel comfortable with.
Fab a small shield of thin scrap to protect the glass from an accident.
Working from the inside.. put your goggles on & let the sparks fly!
Your hands will get tired!...multiple slices may be required, you may have to drive out the lower portion of the pin.
I have always used the new replacement stainless pins...however, they are a bitch to get right and will try your patience to no end.
The next one I do will be the Banks brass...The time saved on refit adjustments is worth the cost.
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I had my hinges replaced at British car shop that is very familiar with Europa hinges. I bought a pair of stainless hinges from Bean. The shop installed them just fine. After a few months the passenger door began to sag, even though only three people have even been in the passenger seat. I tried adjusting it and had no success. The car went back to the shop for other stuff and they fixed the sagging door but, they said if the hinges had used a fine thread it would have been much easier to adjust. If the Banks hinges are a fine thread I may have them changed if the doors begin to sag again.
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The door sags because it slips on the fibreglass/bobbin of the door. You need to have good friction washers to hold it in place. I made mine out of coarse abrasive paper (can't remember the grade). I made them tight against the body of the hinge pivot so I only needed abrasive on one side. No problems with slipping (knock on wood).
It is also important that you do not lean on the door, nor use it to pull yourself up. The length of the door is a long lever trying to make those hinges slip. I made up these for my doors:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-xZ9fMZd/0/0a87f433/X2/IMG_1375-X2.jpg)
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I use the "Banks" hinges myself. What most people don't realize is that they are not a hinge, just an adjustable brass pivot working against the body bobbin. It settles/wears into place and requires a few cycles of snugging up before it is stable.
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Found a deal on a stainless set so I will give them a try and use plenty of never seize and polish all wear surfaces before assembly.
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As with JB I found that the RD supplied friction material did not work. I used a 80 grit sanding disc cut to match the available surface (4 per door). No slippage so far.
Sandy
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Made my abrasive washers out of those dry wall sanding sheets.
They're some kind of synthetic matrix with gritty bits stuck to them and seem to be largely impervious to water.
I used one of the fine grades because I figured the course bits would be crushed in any case.
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++ on the drywall sanding sheet.
I even had a supply from the last reno.
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Looks like a good idea....and I probably have some.....somewhere...
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+++ on drywall sanding sheet. It’s what I also used. Medium grade.
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Hello and good year,
I was afraid that there are often settings with the Banks part. So I entered Igubal ball joints. I have never touched it. This is an economical solution, but you have to make an opening to be able to hold the screw below.
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Do you have more pictures? Maybe from inside the door? How do you adjust the door alignment?
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Do you have more pictures? Maybe from inside the door? How do you adjust the door alignment?
Difficult to see the montage with the photos.
It should be understood that the two axes of rotation are not necessarily aligned. The two ball joints allow this.
the original hole in the door is + -25.5mm. Very easy to re-drill with the tool (2 first photos) 26mm drill in the door. The crank is on the outside of the door. Hopefully the tool was just the right length. The ball joints came in force.
The top screw must be tightened by passing a hand through the dashboard towards the top of the door. At the bottom you have to make an opening (see the photo). With the plastic ball joints and after 8 years, the doors have always adjusted perfectly. I think it is always easy to find the kneecaps at Igus.
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Very clever! :beerchug:
It really comes down to how easily is the door adjusted and unless you have worked with the different kits, I would think it would be difficult to judge. I have the Banks kit and the misalignment you worried about is not a problem. The one thing I would like from any of the kits is a way to make fine adjustments in the horizontal plane!
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Very interesting...what is the part sticking through the front of the door? Part of the spherical rod end?
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Very interesting...what is the part sticking through the front of the door? Part of the spherical rod end?
There is no through axis. Just the two screws visible on the plan. You can see the two screw heads in the back inside the door.
For proper operation, a slightly sliding adjustment is required (black arrow).
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Passenger door off......
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:beerchug:
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One door off and hinge removed....moved car to start other side....
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Drivers door off... :) it seemed to work well using sawzall on bottom hinge and hand hacksaw on top one.
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That has to feel good! :beerchug:
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Doors off and seats out and pedals removed.....hopefully the worst disassembly projects are done :pirate:
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Hood off, ground heads off the 4 rusted out pedal assembly bolts, blower motor removed, radiator and fan removed.....how do you get that lower fan bolt out ? Would have been easier removing fan😐
Radiator still had some water in it.....not sure if that is a good thing....
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Congratulations on your progress, Turbo! It's too bad most of it is at the hands of a grinder or a saw rather than a wrench!
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I need to buy a case of cutoff discs......
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More progress, emissions evap canister removed, swirl tank removed, battery removed(it will not go back to this awkward spot), exhaust removed....
Pics:
Exhaust and street sign heat shield
Critters lived in exhaust :confused:
Rust pile in turbine housing
After vacuuming out the rust, the exhaust turbine looks fine and the turbo spins by hand :pirate:
Figured it was a lost cause when I dropped the exhaust....not using this turbo but nice to know it is rebuildable!
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That looks pretty rough. Think you can save it?
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New SS door hinge kit arrived in the mail today 8) Look much better than rusted mess that was there!
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Brake boosters out.....why did they put that brace right in the way of one of the nuts?
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Rear fender well braces undone, fuel line, misc. wiring.....
Pic of 5 of 6 thermocouples used to monitor things.....two of them were quite the bugger to get off the header!
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Is all the engine compartment wiring removed with the body or is there a connector I don't see?
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You didn't miss a connector. The loom is one piece with branches. The "trunk" goes through the firewall and along the top of the tunnel to the dashboard. You can leave the wiring on the body when you remove it from the frame if you wish.
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Had an"aha" moment today as I was undoing wiring in the engine compartment.....the turbo system would be in the way of lifting the body off.....
So I removed it.....typical Lotus fun.... :o
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Ignition in car.
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Boy, that's a blast from the past!
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The Judson is interesting looking.....hopefully it still works.....would probably get some questions about it if it's in the car....
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I think I now have everything in the engine compartment disconnected that needs to be removed with the body.....the bolts to the brace that goes from under the rear window down to the chassis attachment point are fun to get out by yourself....did not have to use any cut off discs today :pirate:
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Closing plate removed.....required a grinder....needs replaced....has anyone used aluminum? If so what gauge?
Radiator hoses off.
Bolt out of steering universal joint (More Lotus fun). Will the u-joint only go on in one position or do I need to mark it some how before taking it apart?
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Congratulations on your progress!!
You can probably use aluminum but I would make it thicker and I might make the "lip" edges taller than the original steel since it does ad some support for the nose of the car. Mine is about 0.060" so I might go up to 0.10". If you have a sheet metal guy or access to a shear and a brake, that would work but you can buy them. I know that europa-supplies lists them and I would expect Dave Bean and r.d. to have them too.
There's no need to worry about indexing the steering shaft to the u-joint. You can adjust the clocking position at the wheel.
When you get to work on the frame, you might figure out a way to give yourself more room around that u-joint!
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The steering shaft and u-joint can go together in multiple positions but it's not important as so can the steering wheel. You will have to align the signal cancelling clip to suit, and that's all.
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Thanks JB and BDA!
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The closing plate does a lot of work, I suggest you replace with steel like the original. You'll avoid electrolytic nonsense too.
Steering UJ can fit anywhere on splines. When you refit, centralise the rack, make sure the column and steering wheel are in straight ahead position, then refit.
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The closing plate does a lot of work, I suggest you replace with steel like the original. You'll avoid electrolytic nonsense too.
What sort of work does the closing plate do?
As far as I can see, it acts as a brace between the lower nose line and the chassis.
If it weren't there, there would be a large unsupported chasm all the way from the lower extent of the body to nearly the top extents. I think that's why it's called a 'closing plate'.
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As I understand it from many years ago when I briefly drove my car without the closing plate, it keeps the front part of the body from working up and down as you drive until it cracks off. So, generally useful to keep.
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Today, removed center console (what a flimsy piece), heater hoses, bolts holding dash to chassis and seat belt bolts.
I think all I have left before lifting the body is removing the steering column (u-joint already loose), the emergency brake pivot bolt and several more bolts holding the body to the chassis :)
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Oil pressure guage pipe?
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I believe so, I will double check everything before attempting to lift body ;)
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Good luck. I hope it all goes smoothly. :welder:
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Great progress, Turbo! :beerchug:
The original console cover was really flimsy. The good news is that the replacements are much more substantial and made of ABS. The bad news is you’ll have to trim it yourself.
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If you are wondering if anything could be worse than removing door hinges.....
I have found the answer :blowup:
The pivot bolt in my emergency brake arm would move in it's threads but was frozen solid in the arm!
I couldn't get much force on it because it moved around so I made a board with a slot in one end that would go over the arm and then braced against the firewall....great....until the head of the bolt broke off ( I used penetrating oil, tapped on it, tried to loosen then tighten to work it free) :o
Much fun to reach under the dash with a hacksaw blade and cut through the bolt (glad I already removed the doors).
So I removed one bolt today....... :(
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I think that the job you have just finished after skinning your knuckles is the worst job. Pain is a short term memory.
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I think Gary's right. You've pretty much taken care of the things that are really hard to get to. There is the dash work that requires the Lotus Position (and a g-suit to make sure you keep blood in your noggin), but that's just uncomfortable.
There will be more difficult parts but I think the worst may be behind you! :beerchug:
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Crikey, Turbo, you've had the worst run with frozen bolts.
If there's any justice in the world, you should win a big lottery.
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I think I have had one work session so far that did not require a grinder/sawzall/hacksaw/drill to remove hardware..... :o. Hopefully the worst of it has passed!
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Found this ......glad I will not have to go through emissions or any inspection with it 8)
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WOW! This is the kind of stuff I love to see. What history. What technology for the time. If you need a full roof section I have it. I'd make a deal you can't refuse.
Keep posting. Love it!
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Found this ......glad I will not have to go through emissions or any inspection with it 8)
There's a story behind that document.
While trying to tune the single Weber 45DCOE, the car was running extremely rich. ....The car stalled in the inspection line, wouldn't re-start, and I needed to be pushed out of the building, which prompted a "failed" inspection sticker.
I asked how I could fail emissions if the car wasn't running. ...They didn't think that was as funny as I did.
Of course, once outside, it re-started. ...I cut my losses and left to return another day.
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Steering column and shaft removed today. Found it easiest to remove the emergency brake handle and sit on the floor to get the two steering column bracket bolts loosened from the dash bracket (door needs removed for this).
How do you get the push rod out of the master cylinder?
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Congratulations on your progress!!
IIRC, under the rubber "boot" there is a "washer" that is held in by a circlip. The end of the push rod is larger and rounded and doesn't fit through the "washer." So if I got it right, disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal at the clevis (there is a pin through the clevis and pedal that is retained by a small cotter pin), take the M/C off the frame, take the rubber boot off the M/C and push it down the push rod. You should see the washer and the circlip. Take out the circlip and pull the pushrod out of the M/C. Something like that. There really isn't a trick to it...
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So I need to remove the master cylinder to get the body off the chassis?
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Couldn't get the clevis off the brake rod and could not get the top master cylinder bolt off ....
Knowing I had to replace the bottom of the T-section, I cut a hole in it and had another awkward hacksaw session to cut through the brake rod ( I will weld it back together later).
Pics:
1) Found out why bottom T-section probably rotted out .... More critter debris and their pee probably rusted the floor of their Europa dwelling place.... :-\
2) Brake rod hacked in two.
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Sorry, I didn't see your previous post... I think the answer is yes, you need to take the M/C off to take the body off. You have to take the M/C push rod out to take the body off and I believe the only way you can take it out is to detach it from the M/C. My memory is a little fuzzy there but I think that's right. BTW, if you're planning on keeping your M/C I would recommend White Post Restorations (https://whitepost.com/#hometop) to rebuild it. They seem to be able to rebuild any hydraulic bit from any car and they line the bore with copper (or is it brass?) so the bore should never need attention again.
You certainly have your work cut out for you! I don't think I remember critters taking up lodging in the 'T' section before!
I've probably already suggested to make more access to the steering u-joint (but you'll just have to live with that. Wait till you start talking about your dash and you'll get tired of me reminding you to finish both sides and all the edges to keep moisture out!). If you can find someone with a flaring die punch (I think I've heard them called a chassis punch). Eastwood has them but you might want to find someone who has one already. Alternatively, you could probably fabricate something.
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Steering column and shaft removed today. Found it easiest to remove the emergency brake handle and sit on the floor to get the two steering column bracket bolts loosened from the dash bracket (door needs removed for this).
Thanks Turbo , I' doing the reverse soon, thanks for the heads up. I'm still not gong to take off doors. I just put on the master cylinder and rods. my last c'clip going in soon.
dakazman
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Today I undid the clutch, speedometer, choke etc cables. Also undid oil pressure tube under dash and all wiring/tubing for the six additional gauges and thermocouples that were added to monitor the turbo setup.
One more check for anything I might I have missed and all I have left to undo are the remaining body to chassis bolts :beerchug:
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:pirate: :pirate: :beerchug:
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Opened my "glovebox" door for the first time and found more critter debris...... :o
Removed luggage area and engine compartment chassis bolts. I previously undid engine compartment bracing and chassis bolts in the dash area......are there bolts in the seat area? I have pulled back the carpet and looked from underneath.....if they are there where are they :confused:
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There is plate between the outer body shell and the interior where the outer seat belt anchor lives. They are usually in very bad shape by now and given the “crustiness” of your car, it is a very good bet that yours will be terrible. The inner seatbelt anchor screws into the backbone. You’ve probably already encountered the upper seatbelt anchor at the upper outside corner of the tubular frame behind the firewall.
Seems like your car was a critter hotel! It is interesting that your glove box had a door. The PO did that and if you restore your dash yourself, if he did a reasonable job, you are that much further along to a custom dash.
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I have removed the inner seat belt bolts.....are there others in this area near seats and "firewall" ?
If not I am ready to lift the body off :pirate:
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Nope. The S2 and probably the S1 had bolts behind the seats but not the TC or TCS.
It sounds like you’re ready for liftoff!! :pirate:
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BTW - here are plans for the outer/lower seatbelt anchor: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1pWkOZ6a7g3D0iWUf8aY6Rpc9WfbVqxQT
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Thanks BDA!
I have to reorganize the mess I have created getting to this point before lift off will commence :trophy:
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BDA has come to the rescue with my dash drawing/pattern issue....thanks BDA :pirate:
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You're very welcome! I'm glad I could be of help!
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Some minor progress today, removed deck lid and body seems to lift up from chassis when I lift at various points on body.
Reorganizing the mess I created today, took the oppurtunity to weigh some parts:
Original turbo system (minus carb) 56.3lbs
Brake boosters with brackets. 13.2lbs
Exhaust with Corvair turbo muffler. 18.6lbs
Breather system 5.7lbs
Door panels w/speakers. 8.7lbs
Center console .7lbs
Spare wheel and tire. 29.1lbs
Radiator (original). 22.6lbs
Radiator fan. 4.2lbs
Closing plate (very rusty). 4.2lbs
Seat w/tracks. 24.8lbs
Battery. 32.9lbs
Pics Soaking parts in vinegar to remove rust (some before and after).
This is just regular white vinegar, next time I will buy "cleaning" vinegar which is twice as strong.
It takes several days but it is basically non-toxic .....neutralized with baking soda water mix after soaking then dried parts.
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Vinegar is a nice idea. It's a lot cheaper than Naval Jelly!
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A bit more reorganizing to do and I will be ready for lift off😎
I plan to use a system with two block and tackles in the front and one centered over the engine compartment, after lifting high enough I was thinking of sliding a wooden "T" made out of 2 x 4s to simulate the chassis and hoist it up to my garage ceiling (11') to keep the body out of the way for chassis and running gear restoration. Should this adequately support the body?
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I think that should do it. I would align them vertically so you get extra rigidity.
It might be simpler to have two 2x4s, one under the front jack points or across the 'T' and one under the rear jack points and hold it up that way.
It's not that heavy. I think three men could pick it up without problem. I held mine up on two pretty rickety saw horses.
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I used 4 ratchet straps. One attached to each of the 4 corner mounting points on the body, going up to padeyes screwed into the ceiling beams. I had one pair of helping hands and that was enough. The ratchets let us lift the body bit by bit and without having to hold the body ourselves. However you do it, having some way to lift a bit and then lock the lifting tackle, while you investigate, is a good idea. Being able to take your time and check to see what's happening takes a lot of the stress out of it.
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More organizing today so I decided to start work on carb too.....
Pics:
1) 40+ year old gas.....now varnish
2) Initial cleaning in ultrasonic cleaner
3) Now soaking in Pine Sol water mix will put back in ultrasonic cleaner after Pine Sol bath
4) Starting pic
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I guess you got a barn find. Too bad it spent all its time under the barn!
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I guess you got a barn find. Too bad it spent all its time under the barn!
haha, that made me laugh.
That's some pretty special stuff in the carb bowl. Has it come clean?
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Working on it.....
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That looks A LOT better!!! :beerchug:
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Before and after (same carb).
Future mods.....thin throttle shaft and install needle bearings for it to pivot in.
Been thinking about going to a blow through setup.....
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On seeing the first pic, I'd have written it off.
But that's quite a transformation, Turbo . . . well done.
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Amazing transformation!! You’re a miracle worker!! :beerchug:
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New throttle shafts and shaft bushings are available. Done lots and lots of them. Change the needle jet as well as the needle.
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Lift off has started 8). My goal was to have body off chassis by end of February......I think I might make it.
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Being on time is a good thing! Congratulations on your lift-off!! :beerchug:
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Today's progress......made my goal of body off by end of February :trophy:
I am the in the middle of the one pic with my two sons :)
The block and tackles were workable but next time I will buy winches! Probably add some more bracing to the supports....the block and tackles are still attached but I didn't want to tempt Murphy to show up so I figured I had better support it also.
The top of the chassis has no surprises! So I will be repairing the bottom of the T-section, and refurbishing chassis and running gear....
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Nice family, Turbo! No surprises on the top of your frame is nice but that's where the least surprises are. As you noticed, the bottom of the the 'T' and and the corners of the 'T' and the backbone.
I think I suggested to you earlier but in case I didn't, now is a great time to make better access to your steering u-joint.
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You did mention that BDA, and I will 😊
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Congrats Turbo! Now the fun begins :beerchug:
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Today I just tried to reorganize work space after shuffling everything around to lift body. Also sprayed penetrant on all the hardware I could see.
Pics -
Space :)
More critter debris ....this one must have to wanted to be a mechanic because he had a wrench in there with him :o
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More critter debris, Turbo?
In Oz, we pride ourselves on our critters . . particularly the deadly ones, but I think you've cornered the market on critter home making.
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For Gavin.....one last pile of critter debris.....
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Some progress this past week, removed alternator, sway bar, loosened all front suspension bolts (none are stuck in the chassis now :))), removed shift linkage from transaxle, removed roll pins from u-joint flanges, pulled valve cover just to see how things look (pic attached)..... Ordered a stock distributor (mine is crusty looking and retard mechanism has missing parts).
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Your cams look like they are ok. Can you see anything of your followers? You'll know a lot more when you take the rest of it apart! Fingers crossed!
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Removed speedometer cable, engine compartment diagonal bracing and decided it was a good time to drain the transaxle, the gear oil looked like gear oil with very, very minimal tiny brass specs, and dragging a magnet through it grabbed no particles, so the transaxle should be in good shape internally. (Pic of gear oil).
I would assume now is a good time to loosen the large nuts on the stub axles while the suspension is still together ?
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Yes. You'll probably have to lock the hub with a breaker bar against the floor of your garage to loosen it. When you get it off, you should need heat to melt the loktite on the hub to get it off. Make a note to yourself to get the right loktite (#635). r.d. enterprises sells small quantities.
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My axle nut loosening rig......boy that was tight!
3/8" plywood is up to the task!
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Unpleasant surprise........
About 1-1/8" of water in the oil pan (calculated based on 40 ounces of water in drain bucket)..hopefully below the level of anything important :confused:
Good thing the capacity of the oil pan was increased!
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Water in the oil is never a good thing and given what you've found already, I supposed it shouldn't be unexpected. I hope the oil mitigated any damage from the water. Good luck!
Your plywood solution seems to have worked well!
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Can water pump on Twin Cam leak into engine :confused:?
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Not than I'm aware... unfortunately...
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Not the pump itself but there are gaskets between the cover, adaptor plate and the block. Not a common problem though. Head gasket issues are much more common.
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There is evidence of corrosion at the cover mating surfaces at the water pump area, near the timing chain tensioner sprocket......so hopefully that is my issue......
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Hopefully!
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Maybe mentioned in a previous comment, (if so sorry), but you appear to have a toothed belt drive to your water pump do you not? This being the case - do you have the cartridge water pump conversion on that engine?? (Personally I would rate this as "desirable" ;))
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It has a toothed belt and It does have a cartridge water pump that was designed by the original owner CWTech.
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Minimal progress today, got the other stub axle nut off.....it was tighter than the other one!
Took coolant hoses off engine and discovered why it looks like I had coolant leaking from between the front covers near water pump.....see pic of coolant "goo"..... :-\
Pulled thermostat housing.... Head seems to be ok.....
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Another step in your journey...
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Removed all the rear suspension today and lifted the chassis up and over the engine and transaxle....
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These pics are from when I picked up my Europa in October(there were on a different device).
The one pic is me on the right and CW on the left.
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Great pictures! It will be fun to look back on these after you’ve finished restoring her.
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Ya got so good times ahead. :trophy: Hopefully you can breathe new life into her.
Keep posting your progress, you'll love the read later.
Best of Luck,
Dakazman
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My friend Murphy showed up today with his buddies Rust and Corrosion.... >:(
I was able to remove the coolant tubes, emergency brake cables, master cylinder and most of the suspension.
Rust on shock is holding up removing drivers side upper suspension bolt and half the control arm, also preventing removal of lower suspension bolt....soaking with penetrant (again).
Corrosion is preventing removal of the steering rack as one lone bolt has decided to become one with the aluminum mounting bracket....heat, penetrating oil, wiggle then repeat numerous times has gotten it to move about 1/16"......may be hack saw time and then deal with it.
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You continue to have your work cut out for you! Those rack mounts are available but they tend not to be inexpensive. You could probably make your own without too much trouble if you have a buddy with a machine shop.
Good luck!
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Yeah, hack saw time . . or the angry grinder.
Life is too short and bolts too cheap to put up with that sort of recalcitrance.
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Rust on shock is holding up removing drivers side upper suspension bolt and half the control arm, also preventing removal of lower suspension bolt....soaking with penetrant (again).
I had the same problem - managed to remove the upper suspension bolts by cutting them in half through the center and then used an impact wrench on each half. (Makes sense?)
Lower suspension bolts came out with most of the front box section though...... :headbanger:
I used a lot of cutting discs (and expanded my vocabulary hugely rendering the garage with a blue haze), before my chassis was completely disassembled.....
Keep at it - its satisfying when done - not particularly so when you look at the pile of items you are going to have to replace though. :o :o
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Had to use a hacksaw to get steering rack bracket off (anyone have a spare?).
Also removed lower stuck suspension bolt. Had to resort to something I dislike using, curse words, a pipe wrench,'small sledge hammer, long bolt for a punch >:(
Hopefully tomorrow I will tackle remaking stuck control arm bolt.
Amazing how getting one bolt out can turn into a huge ordeal!
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Had to use a hacksaw to get steering rack bracket off (anyone have a spare?).
Available at sjsportscars.com (X046H0015Y - Steering Rack Mounting Clamp), if you fail to find anyone on the Forum with one.
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RD also has them.
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Upper stuck bolt came out with a little persuasion :pirate: Suspension points are all still intact!
All that is left is to remove brake lines that go from front to rear (looking forward to simplyfying that mess!), trailing arm pivot points and the padding. Is the heater tubing removable?
Then I can flip chassis and repair lower T-section etc 8)
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Good job, Turbo!!! :beerchug:
I don't think the heater tubes come out. On my new frame (I have a pre-tubular Spyder frame), I believe they are made of copper and so probably brazed into the frame. I suspect the Lotus frames were similar. Also, there don't seem to be listed in the parts manual.
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:I-agree:I can confirm heater tubes are an integral part of the original chassis, they cannot readily be removed.
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They are steel and tack welded in place. For goodness sake, change them while the chassis is out. They rot. Mine vacuum tested fine but they leaked under pressure with hot water. Changing them in situ is a nightmare!
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Thanks for replies. Are new ones available or should I just make them?
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Just make them. I'd use SS.
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Met my goal having chassis flipped by the end of March :beerchug:
Now to repair T-section.... ??? The big hole I cut to hacksaw through brake rod.....
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Congratulations on your milestone, Turbo! :beerchug:
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Will have to fold pattern in half to recreate left hand drive pedal mounting as it was to far gone for an accurate pattern.....
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What is your next milestone?
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I admire you taking on that chassis repair - kudos to you. I am not that brave and do not have that skill set. Mine was the same, but being over the pond it went to Spyder Engineering and came back with a more user friendly T section for access.
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Dilkris: S.E. did a great job!
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That’s very similar to (or maybe the same as) my frame. I didn’t know they made frames other than their tubular space frame. The extra access to the steering u-joint is really great!
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Yours looked worse than mine Dilkris! My suspension attachment points are all still intact.
Literary....hope to have chassis repaired and painted by the end of April... :welder:
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Both Banks and Spyder will replace rotten “T” sections on standard frames. Be nice to live in Jolly Old for that reason.
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When converting an S2 frame to S1 specs, I didn’t drill it for the pedal assembly until after I’d modded it. You could even do it after the body is mounted if you wanted.
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Started removing lower piece of T-section.....too rusty to tell where spot welds are and drill them... ??? Looks like I will be grafting in new metal for the first couple of inches of the vertical pieces too
....
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Started removing lower piece of T-section.....too rusty to tell where spot welds are and drill them... ??? Looks like I will be grafting in new metal for the first couple of inches of the vertical pieces too
....
I certainly haven’t looked at the welds on my frame nearly as closely as you, but I don’t recall seeing any spot welds. I think they were mostly intermittent welds.
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Where the sheet metal T-sections overlap and where the internal pieces are welded in are done with "spot" welds. There are a couple of stitch welds at the pedal attachment plates at the rear of the T-section to add support and I would imagine to keep from flexing at the spot welds, and of course stitch welds where the T is attached to the rest of the chassis.
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Turbo, I have an S2 so I used these dimensions ( zoom in to see dimensions)
http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/Lotus%20europa%20chassis%20drawing.pdf
Maybe you can compare and document your findings. I have to add my pedal assembly plate to the frame now after body on. I have the original plate and can check where welds were made.
Dakazman
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Thank you!
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Met my goal having chassis flipped by the end of March :beerchug:
Now to repair T-section.... ??? The big hole I cut to hacksaw through brake rod.....
Just seen the below whilst looking for something else - I know it is the wrong side of the pond - and the price is eye watering (what isn't on a Europa...??) but thought the spot welding was interesting - may be useful reference??
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254700792362?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254700792362&targetid=1140323547510&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1007072&poi=&campaignid=12125464313&mkgroupid=116526847373&rlsatarget=aud-381667280803:pla-1140323547510&abcId=9300481&merchantid=6995734&gclid=CjwKCAjwx6WDBhBQEiwA_dP8rbu2iHczqaXGi_GpzyhMKKkvK2OdY6KJkUu74Dw0XKf8OncGEu37fhoCqc0QAvD_BwE
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Thanks, at least you can see where they are in those pics.
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The original is two box sections welded together. This just has a centre plate tacked in. I prefer the original design.
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No progress on Europa this past weekend. I was busy sorting through the crusty wiring on the 35 year old camper/covid restoration project I have been working on so it could get safety inspected yesterday. I also ran wiring for the brake controller in my trusty/slightly crusty F150. Good practice for upcoming Lotus wiring....
The good news is it passed Maryland safety inspection first try!
My wife is happy ........ :trophy:
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Some progress tonight......bottom of T-section removed.
The construction of a Twin Cam T-section certainly is different from the earlier cars!
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Interesting! That seems to be more complicated than I would have expected.
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Discovered another fun task.....removing the heater tubes :huh:
The welds are no fun to get to! Especially the front ones as they are welded inside the chassis (see pic). Take JB's advice and change them if you have doubts about their condition and you are redoing the chassis (JB how did you do this when the car was together?).
Also figured out my T-section repair (I think.... Have to go by a fab shop for work this week and will see if I can buy some 14 or 16 gauge from him as I don't need a whole sheet).
Started to clean up chassis too....
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Getting those out is a tough job but just keep in mind that you can ensure that you won't end up with a leak after you put the car together!
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In addition to everything being together, I also had AC and oil cooler lines, and a cable shifter in their as well. Access is limited to say the least. I did them out of copper and in two pieces. Still a real pain.
That's why I tell everyone to just change them when the chassis is out.
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JB did you attach the copper lines to the chassis like the originals?
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No, made the holes slightly bigger and sleeved the pipes with rubber hose.
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Bought steel sheet today from a fab shop.....2' x 4' for $38 vs $36-50 for about 3 square feet at the various "big box stores"....
Now I just need to buy that TIG welder.....
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Finished doing a quick wire brush of chassis to check it over, discovered another spot that needs repair on drivers side of frame lower part near the gusset where the braces bolt to the chassis, there was quite a lot of critter debris in this area.
Started fabricating repair pieces for T-section.....using 14 gauge, amazing how much thicker another .014" of material looks!
Still need to cut the lower vertical part of T-section off ....I think I am going to remove 2-3/8" which will bring it the internal box shaped gussets.
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That's looking good, Turbo! :beerchug:
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The front lower T section has two plates , one for the t section and an overlay for the pedals. Then the cover plate on top of all that. But that’s an S2 .
Looks great , keep moving forward.
Dakazman
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Finished removing rot from T-section....need to clean things and finish fabricating repair pieces.
BDA you said to add clearance for the steering accessibility..... In which direction?
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Good job, Turbo!!
Basically you want a bigger hole in the front of the 'T' so you have better access to the steering wheel u-joint. You're probably not like me and probably won't end up essentially rebuilding your car several times but if you need to get at the steering u-joint even once, you'll be thankful for better access.
I don't know if they make what I've always called "chassis punches" in the size you would want but I found this on the inerwebs (https://www.trick-tools.com/Flare_Tools_78?view_all). I searched for "sheet metal hole flare tools" (without the quotes) because "chassis punch" just gave hole punches so I apparently don't know the real name for them! The flare should give you some extra strength to make up for the bigger hold. If that's not practical, you should be able to double up the area there.
Sorry I can't give you dimentions but if you experiment with positioning your hand at different angles in the existing hole, that might help you size your new hole.
Does that help?
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That's impressive work TurboFource - keep at it !!!
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Thanks BDA... I found something called a "The Bob Stick" online that home aircraft builders
use to flange ribs for wings etc. Look s easy enough to make one and try it, especially since
I will end up with an odd size and maybe oval shaped opening. I can temporarily stick the rack back on the chassis
to help figure things out....
The Twin Cam T-section is surprisingly fabricated much different than an S2....the main part of the chassis is formed differently too.
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I am continually amazed at the many differences between the S2 and the TC!
Another name for the tool I was talking about is "dimple die". I think you know what I'm talking about but just to make double dog sure, here's an image search (https://duckduckgo.com/?q=sheet+metal+hole+flare+tools&t=opera&page=1&sexp=%7B"biaexp"%3A"b"%2C"msvrtexp"%3A"b"%7D&iax=images&ia=images). I wasn't able to find any information on "the Bob Stick" but I think you know what you're doing. An oval hole might be as good or even better than a round one.
Good luck and show us what you did when you finish it!
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Here’s a simple flanging tool used in aircraft fabrication:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Hw3ntQv/0/O/i-Hw3ntQv.jpg)
This works with light aluminium sheet and extremely light steel sheet. It would not work with the 16g steel used in a Europa chassis.
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Hello Turbo,
They are known as 'Flanged Lightening Holes' and there are tools available but for a one-off I'm sure that you could make one if you have access to a lathe?
Usually these are used in a fly press and given a good thump to form the flange but these appear to be able to be used in situ on the chassis.
For reference here's a photo of some that were for sale in the UK...
(If not, try and fabricate a beefier version of the tool that JB has shown?)
Mark
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The "dimple dies" for flanged lightening holes are probably the best way to go, but this guy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LicoIj-BdWk - skip ahead to about 5:30) does a descent job hand hammering into a home made aluminum die. FYI, this sardonic Irishman is restoring an S2 Esprit on his channel Soup Classic Motoring. He explains himself well and uses a lot of stop action photography which is interesting to watch. It is also interesting to see just how similar the older Esprits are to the Europa.
Folks might be thinking I waste a lot of time on YouTube. Well... :confused:
Tom
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No way to get a die in there....the rectangular stiffener/gusset inside is flush with the bottom of the steering hole.....
Did some cleaning up of my chassis cuts and started fabricating repair pieces.
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This is " The Bob Stick" , you just put the metal in the slot and slowly and incrementally work your way around the hole to flange it.
Of course a wooden dowel would probably not work trying to flange steel.....
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That will complicate things. You may have to cut the hole a bit bigger and double up the area surrounding the hole.
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The "dimple dies" for flanged lightening holes are probably the best way to go, but this guy (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LicoIj-BdWk - skip ahead to about 5:30) does a descent job hand hammering into a home made aluminum die. FYI, this sardonic Irishman is restoring an S2 Esprit on his channel Soup Classic Motoring. He explains himself well and uses a lot of stop action photography which is interesting to watch. It is also interesting to see just how similar the older Esprits are to the Europa.
Folks might be thinking I waste a lot of time on YouTube. Well... :confused:
Tom
I spend hours on YouTube - and I take my hat off to those who produce the videos on there - these in themselves are not easy to produce - especially when you just want to get something done and are not too sure about what you are doing... :)) :)) (Well this generally is the case for me anyway...). Regarding the above video, I have watched many of them and find his presentations "way up there" - I always laugh at his term "the spinning wheel of death" when referring to an angle grinder.... :FUNNY:
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Some more T-section repair pieces being fabricated.....slow going....using an angry grinder and cutoff wheel...and Dremel etc
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I know it feels like slow going but it is coming together. Those welds in the fist picture look really good! :beerchug:
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I have relatives from the west coast coming Monday, so the lack of posts the last few weeks is due to the lengthy requisite honey-do list....my wife says after they leave I "can work on the Lotus all I want".
I do plan to order a TIG welder from Eastwood this weekend so I can finish chassis repairs in early June 8)
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I hear you about the honey-dos, Turbo!
I don't know anything about welding or welders. Eastwood has quality stuff but it seems like most of it seems overpriced. But then some people would buy Snap On wrenches even if a truck didn't deliver them. I just wonder if there might be a more competitively priced welder. Just a thought.
Enjoy your house guests!
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TIG welder on order...back order....supposed to ship 6/4.... :)
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Relatives left this past weekend so back to Europa work :beerchug:
TIG welder running late .... Should have it mid next week.
Finished T-section repair pieces except for mounting pattern for pedals (need an accurate dimension).
Made repair piece for rear chassis section.
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I know you can’t wait for your welder to come! Love to see what you do with it!
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were the holes for the pedals drilled for both sides? Okay for a tc ..., but why drill out both sides?
Dakazman
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Dakazman,
Both sets were drilled. I have considered not drilling them but I added the holes etc. to mount a RHD master cylinder so I might as well drill holes to mount the pedals too....
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ThAts perfectly fine , make a drawing and post it. Information never hurts.
Did you cut all that with a dremmel? Nice work!
Dakazman
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Some was with angry grinder and cutoff wheels and a hole saw for wood survived for four holes with lots of lubricant to get me close on some of the holes, and then I used the Dremel and carbide burrs to finish them.
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Holes drilled in repair section.
Clearance for steering rack joint.
"Bob Stick" flanging tool I made....part of the hole can't be flanged since internal chassis member in the way
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Good work, Turbo!! You’ll enjoy that extra access to the steering u-joint, especially if you’re like me and end up taking your rack in and out a few times! :) :headbanger:
Actually, you’ll be glad when you install the rack the first time!
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Came home from running errands this morning and found this on the front porch... :welder:
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:pirate: :beerchug:
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:welder: :trophy:
Practice makes perfect!
Dakazman
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Looking good, Turbo.
You'll be proper dangerous with the new welder. :D
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Is there an a stiffer mount available? (Tranny crossmember to rear frame loop.) These are rather soft and I imagine let things move around....
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It is a little bit of a problem that those mounts are as compliant because they allow the tranny to move and that means your rear suspension pickup points are moving. I haven't seen any other replacement so you're kind of stuck with them so it's best to get new ones. TBH, I'm not sure you can tell that things are wiggling around a little back there when you drive it so don't be alarmed.
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Cleaned the mill scale off the repair pieces for the chassis where the welds will be be, started to clean chassis too in prep for the welding.
Finally had a moment to unpack the welder. Argon bottle on the list of things to get this week and hopefully start welding next weekend :welder:
Interesting that the TIG welder came with a hand held welding shield......kinda hard to TIG with one hand..... :o
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You have to wonder about the guy who put that together. You don’t expect them to include a fancy welding helmet because, after all, you’re primarily buying a welder, but you don’t expect them to “save money” by including an inexpensive shield that you can’t even use! That is really false economy!
Enjoy your new toy!
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The legal department will insist that a shield be included so the, lowest cost option gets picked.
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It's just the more affordable hands free option . .
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Had time to set up TIG welder today. The TIG welder works :welder:
I immediately found out the batteries in my helmet were dead so I dug out my old school one.
Then I discovered I can't see ..... I have an optometrist appointment tomorrow....I did get the ends of once piece welded and tacks along its length....then decided since it as hot as heck and glasses will improve the situation, to wait till continue.....
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That reminds me of the song, "There's a Hole in the Bucket" (in case you don't remember it: https://genius.com/Harry-belafonte-a-hole-in-the-bucket-lyrics).
It's always good to remember that the journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. (I thought that up myself but some ancient Chinese guy stole it from me!)
I anxiously await seeing a stack of dimes all over your frame! The interesting thing is that our own Serge, who is building his S1 and documenting it on youtube used the same "stack of dimes" colloquialism and he's lives in Belgium and they don't have dimes over there!
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I have 1.00 dollar store glasses through out my house but need 2.00's for welding. Sucks getting old. Are you using straight argon on steel? I though that was only for aluminum but I have never used a Tig.
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We used straight argon for all TIG welding in the Air Force.
It doesn't help that what I assumed was a #10 lens in my old helmet was actually a #12,
No wonder I couldn't see welding at low amperage... :o
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:FUNNY:
I was welding blind also, went close to the sunlight near an open garage door. With a set of cheaters in the mask and a set of 2.00 glasses instead of progressives, I can see what’s going on , with MIG .
Soon I’ll try out the TIG with 100 percent argon. I also say getting old sucks!
Dakazman
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Beats the alternative...
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All most missed that JB. 😂😂😂
Dakazman
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The optometrist confirmed I need glasses, will try to get them Friday, and I bought batteries for my auto-darkening welding helmet so hopefully things will look better this weekend 8)
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Got my new glasses and new clear lenses for my welding helmet. So nice to be able to see 8)
Welded some repair pieces in today, my welding got better as I went (been a number of years),
Not stacking dimes yet.....more like random loose change...... :welder:
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Turbo, Good to see again . :welder:
Getting past our hurdles is the best story coming out of this. Wow , you laid it down nicely. 👌👌
Now your in control again.
Dakazman
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Great start, Turbo! I’ll bet you’ll stack that loose change into a stack of dimes in no time!
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Scrubbed inside of T-section as best I could and treated with Ospho will I still have reasonable access before welding last two pieces in....it's already turning to iron phosphate....will prime with rust preventative tractor primer....
Repaired rear frame section.
Welded closing plate nuts and drilled "spot" weld holes for bottom T-section piece.
Welded chassis to T-section between lower 2 welds with silicon bronze as this area is prone to crack.
Added horizontal holes for master cylinder mounting to facilitate all options....
Going to add a couple of 1" square tubing pieces for jacking support......I already opened up the hole for steering joint access.....are there any other chassis upgrades that could be done at this point?
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Careful with brazing. While material temperatures "should" be lower, it easy to go too high, especially with thin sheet metal. This affects the metal more than straight MIG/TIG because a larger area is heated for a longer time.
It's the same with seam welding, which I see you have also done. You think it would be better. But, unless it is carefully and skillfully done, you end up with a weaker, embrittled, structure.
If you are ticketed, skilled welder, naturally ignore the above but I didn't want other, less-skilled, people following your example.
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It was done with my TIG welder not oxy/acetylene. And for short durations.
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Looking good, Turbo.
Out of curiosity, have you encountered much in the way of distortion happening with that front T section?
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It does not seem to be Gavin. Going slow, letting it cool, fairly low amperage since it is thin.
Nothing has buckled or distorted...the circled area shows back side of where I welded with silicon bronze to strengthen the lower chassis to T-section weld....miminal heat input....
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JB brought up a good point a couple of posts ago.
I am just documenting my build and do not recommend anyone repair or modify their chassis or suspension components etc. as your skills, experience, thoughts, etc are probably different than mine and these are no areas to learn welding.
My experience includes:
-Time served in the Air Force as an aircraft machinist and welder certified to weld titanium, magnesium, aluminum, stainless and carbon steel. I also did a lot of silver soldering here.
-I have been an AWS Certified Welding Inspector.
-I have rebuilt/upgraded high speed precision industrial manufacturing equipment.
-Fabricated custom made industrial agitators.
-Programmed industrial robotic welding equipment.
-Did machine work for a race car shop.
-Worked in the service department of 2 Honda motorcycle dealerships while in school.
-I am currently a boiler and pressure vessel inspector.
If in doubt, please sub it out!
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Hi, Turbo,
Pleased you've outed yourself as a certified inspector (as distinct from myself who probably should be merely certified). ;D
It was done with my TIG welder not oxy/acetylene. And for short durations.
I've sometimes wondered about this.
With the arrival of reasonably priced TIG welders for we, the great unwashed, no one seems to bother with brazing any more.
Back in the day I recall joint design had a serious place in the discussion, but now, brazing is usually seen as an outmoded and inferior method . . . and maybe that's OK.
Would you care to comment on the differences between TIG and oxy/acetylene brazing?
Apart from the differences between silicon bronze and manganese bronze, my impression is that TIG has better bead & fillet control but gas brazing sees more capillary action happening.
Thoughts?
Way back in the dark ages, I had an entire header oxy/acetylene brazed together (by someone else) using various bend sections and it never gave an ounce of trouble.
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Gavin I believe you already hit the nail on the head. Also because of more controlled heat input with TIG your heat affected zone is much smaller. Using the foot pedal provides infinite control of heat input as you weld.
Old school oxy/acetylene definitely has its place as you can weld, braze, solder, cut , bend etc with just one welding rig. I wouldn't use it on sheet metal I am trying to keep straight....the heat input is significant before you get things hot enough to weld or braze.
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I need to preface with the fact I am not an expert welder. My training was in college as I worked towards an engineering degree. I weld but have a tendency to do test welds and destroy them to insure what I am doing will result in the needed strength. Most things I have my professional welder do it though we are mostly brute force type stuff in the welding shop.
That said, back in the day, English chassis for cars like FF were all braised. US chassis were often mig welded. Tig seemed to come along later as is probably how most hand built pro chassis are done today. For exactly the reasons turboforce stated. Though proper mig does still serve well.
The braising rod is what makes the difference. The rod used in the old chassis that provide strength has a high silver content and that makes it expensive. And yes, capillary action certainly enters into some applications. Your ac system has copper piping. It is not soldered together like water pipes but rather braised with high silver content rod. (If done right) and capillary action is vital for that application. I have repaired tubes with other tubes and used the capillary action you can get with braising to make the repair easier and strong.
As my tig went down about every six months and wanted hundreds to repair each time, I scrapped it years ago and recently braised repairs to a FF chassis and a new header. I question whether to get a new tig but my ability makes me question if I should bother. :confused:
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Figured I better paint in here while access is the best it will ever be.....finished with paint up to my elbows, on my glasses and who knows where else.....hope to finish welding tomorrow :welder:
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Finished chassis repair :beerchug: I am about 1-1/2 months behind my mental schedule ....
Next up is rust prevention and painting of chassis....
Special thanks to Alexa for keeping me company and playing lots of Rush and Triumph as requested ;)
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That looks great, Turbo! :beerchug:
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Just a reminder what it did look like.....
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This encouraged me to look at your previous two pictures again. Is there a hole in the side of the backbone about a foot from the 'T' section? Is that typical? If so, you'll get a lot of use out of your new welder!
Keep up the good work!
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No hole BDA....thank goodness....just a small portion of the original chassis paint that actually stayed on the chassis.....
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Complete chassis treated with 2 coats of Ospho. Primer and paint soon!
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Proper progress. Nicely done.
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Primed......
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That's looking good, Turbo!! It's an early step but bigger than it might seem. Now you can start hanging things off the frame! :beerchug:
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Painted.....
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:beerchug:
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:trophy:
Now first job put the coolant line rubber seals in … now.
Dakazman
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Looks good!
You're one step closer, Kraig! :pirate:
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The main reason for taking the whole car apart, to repair chassis, is complete :welder: :pirate: :beerchug:
Let the reassembly fun begin!!
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Decided to put another coat of paint on chassis this past week to better preserve it.
Figured out coolant tubing lengths and angles etc. Chased all the threaded holes in the chassis .
Decided to put the rack on it to see how much extra access I created ....
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That looks like pretty good access to me, Turbo. Hopefully, you'll only need it once but if not, you'll be glad every time you take it out and put it in!
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That brown truck that my dogs bark at like it's their mortal enemy dropped off some goodies today....
I may need to put a 240V outlet in the garage to handle the aluminum welding amperage....or I could pull the stove out and weld in the kitchen... ::) think my wife would notice... :o ?
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It's always fun to get new toys! These will be great fun! I don't know your wife but I'm guessing that putting 240v in your garage would really contribute to marital harmony!
Have fun with your new toys! Show us all the cool stuff you do with them.
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Decided to put the rack on it to see how much extra access I created ....
That access hole looks good . . and the 'mood' lighting makes it easy to see. ;)
Did you do the lip with that bobble-stick or joggle-stick . . or whatever it was called?
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Gavin,
I used the " Bob stick" to do the flange on the opening.
The "mood" lighting is because the body to my car is suspended from the garage ceiling
And blocking some of my lighting....the "Europa" effect.....
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Thankfully my Koni's look usable! I will probably upgrade down the road but it is nice to save that money for any surprises that may be hiding in the Twink......
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if you're going to all the trouble to restore the car, don't go cheap on suspension since THAT is what the Europa is in essence. Save money yes, but find some other area to go cheap on....not the drivetrain in a Lotus!!!
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:I-agree:
Those Konis are going to be really old. I think Koni will rebuild them for you so that is one point to consider.
Another point is what spring rates do you think you'll want. The Koni front shocks used the stock front springs which is a larger diameter spring than many newer shocks take. r.d. sells slightly stiffer springs in the original sizes (i.e. they would fit your Konis but make sure with them first). Ray at r.d. said that he sells SPAX shocks that utilize the stock front springs and similar. Most other shocks use a smaller diameter (1.9") ID spring (the same as the rear spring ID).
You can get springs of any length, diameter, and rate (within limits of course) so the springs don't have to dictate your decision but I find it a little easier to have the 1.9" ID springs because more shocks support them and they are a bit more compact.
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The green TC I recently met mentioned that he wished he hadn’t had his shocks rebuilt and now has the nose up stance. Time to buy some adjustables ,and maybe shorter springs.
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I didn't really expect much response when I posted the Koni picture.
They were a period upgrade that was done by the original owner and still on the car when I got it.
They probably don't have that many miles on them as the car sat for over 40 years, they stroke in and out smoothly, don't leak and will work to get the car going...... :confused:
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I have heard some Europa owners who fitted Konis back in the day, found that they worked very much better as they accumulated miles. Out of the box, they were to 'tight' for the lightweight Europa.
Second hand info, just passing it along.
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I had also heard that Konis were a bit harsh. Back in the day, they were the only option to the stock shocks, at least in the US. Given their age, if you plan on using them, I think it would be a good idea to see if they will rebuild them for you.
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So Koni's get better with age like the rest of us..... ::)
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We'd certainly like to think so! :)
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Kraig: I think you have some paperwork on the Koni shocks.
My C.R.S. is slowly progressing to C.R.A.F.T. , but I believe those Konis were adjustable for ride stiffness.
IF I remember correctly, the shock needed to be fully compressed and rotated to adjust to 1 of 3 different settings.
Note: Just found this which may help ?? http://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/ (http://www.koni.com/en-US/Cars/Technology/Adjustment-Guides/)
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I had a pair of front Konis on my car too. The car only had 45k on the clock so I cleaned them up with a little Chevy orange engine paint and had the shop use them with the stock springs. Once they put the body on they said the body sits too high and the shocks were no good. The Konis stroked fine for me too by hand at home. I ended up with the Spax from RD Enterprises and new springs from some other Europa project the shop had laying around.
There is a shop in Ohio that rebuilds the Konis but I think I recall they were equally or more expensive than buying the new shocks.
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Thanks for the Koni input to all!
On to other things......"some assembly required......."
I will make a post at a later date if the master cylinder works out.....if not I will quietly take it off, toss it, delete this picture and try something else.... ::)
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I rebuilt the Konis in my Elan+2. They turned out great and work perfect. New o-rings and clean everything up. They didn't new glans seals. Oil just got old and mucked up. I used some new Lucas shock oil for motor bike forks and I've had 2 trouble free years with them. I think somehow people end up running those adjustable Konis at the hardest setting. That's how they came out of my car. I dialed them back and it totally smoothed out the +2.
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Rosco,
Do you know what weight fork oil you used?
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I thought I'd mention another thing that occurred to me about Knois, which is that you have to take the spring off to adjust them. If, as I think I remember I was told back when I bought my Konis (which I never used so I have no experience with them), the adjustment was to accommodate for wear rather than for suspension tuning. This seems to be confirmed by Rosco's post as well as the fact that they are inconvenient to adjust and I think there are only 5 settings. ++
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Running brake lines.....
Cleaned this brake fitting in vinegar/salt solution while running front lines....rinsed with baking soda water mix and then went over it quickly 0000 steel wool, then clear.
Only one line going to back now.....
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That fitting will look even prettier next to your newly painted frame! ;D
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Turbo,
I trust you got permission from the D'man before polishing that brake union. ;)
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Turbo,
I trust you got permission from the D'man before polishing that brake union. ;)
:FUNNY:
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Dakazman.....is shiny stuff ok? ::)
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Rosco,
Do you know what weight fork oil you used?
Hey Turbo,
I used Lucas Hi-Performance Synthetic Fork Oil. I used the Light 5WT. So far so good, I probably have about 1500 miles on them.
Cheers,
Ross
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:beerchug:
Totally acceptable and encouraged. :FUNNY: It doesn’t last long but you will have a picture.
It does show you actually inspected it for hairline cracks. I’ve had stainless steel fittings that had cracks from misalignment and over torqued. Misting skydrol burns your nasal cavities and lungs, eyes and skin. Automotive Brake lines not quite the 3000 psi hydraulic lines but should be inspected.
Dakazman
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Finished chassis brake lines today. (A spray paint can is perfect for the bend radius at the chassis "Y".)
Drilled out what was hopefully my last remaining stuck bolt.... In emergency brake arm....what does this bolt look like since I cut both ends off in the removal process?
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Your brake lines look great, Turbo! The pivot bolt for the parking brake is a shoulder bolt. With the threads in the frame, the diameter and depth of hole in the arm, you should be able to get a replacement at a good hardware store (leave room for a washer under the bolt head). Failing that, I’m sure r.d. or Dave Bean would have them.
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Well as you asked so nicely, I went down the garden to get one.
The head is 19mm hexagonal. 6mm thick
The shaft is 12.5mm diameter and 39mm long of plain shaft.
It then tapers into a threaded part, 9.5mm UNF thread, 12.5mm of thread.
19mm equates to 3/4"
12.5mm equates to 1/2"
39mm equates to about 1.5"
9.5mm is probably 3/8".
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Thanks 4129R for measuring it!!
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As you can see from the parts diagram, it is a shouldered bolt. You can make one with a bolt of the correct length and thread, and a round bushing made to suit.
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The problem with this solution is that the head is not large enough. The way I have done it is to use a bolt that has the correct shank and turn it down and cut the correct threads.
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Just add a washer.
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Not trying to start anything but a bushing is unlikely to be much easier than a custom bolt, you will need a lathe for either option.
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If I were going to make one, I would get a 1/2" bolt, 2" long, turn down the end to 3/8" for 1/2" long at the end, cut a 3/8" UNF thread on the 1/2" end, and use a penny washer to make it wider at the top.
I would also smear the thread with copper-ease to stop it rusting in the chassis again. But the reaction lever is seldom removed, normally only the take the body off the chassis, or to change from LHD to RHD or vice-versa.
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That is (except for sizes) exactly what I did for the bolt at the bottom of the shifter. On that bolt it is important that the head is the correct size so the welded on anti rotation thing works.
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Bought 2,flange bushings, washers and a grade 8 bolt (will shorten bushings and bolt so arm pivots on bushings.) Greased on assembly it will last quite awhile!
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Should work a treat. But some of us are always searching for an excuse to uncover the lathe.
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Gary,
If I had a lathe I would do so!
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Shortened bushings and bolts for emergency brake arm.
Disassembling front hub etc....
Cleaning more pieces...
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Coolant lines cut and ready for welding.....: :welder:
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Nice work turbo.
I may have said this before but remember to put new seals in the frame before installing the tubes.
Dakazman
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Already done Dman!
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Today's progress.....
Turned chassis into temporary work table.....
Then :welder:
Going to weld tabs on heater tubes and then pop rivet them in place, also need to weld NPT weld bungs in place for heater hoses etc. on coolant tubes.
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Excellent!!! Another step in your journey! :beerchug:
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Again nice work Turbo . I hope this next step goes smoothly for you , Now for the fun part, getting them in.
dakazman
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Very pretty welds there, Turbo. 8)
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Welded a couple of NPT bungs on....ran out of argon...
All the old coolant/heater tubing weighed 9.1lbs...the new aluminum ones weigh only 3.8lbs 8)
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You are good with a welder, Turbo! :beerchug:
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Welded tabs on heater lines so I could rivet them in place.
Installed all the coolant lines (thankfully my welds went through the frame grommets) 8)
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Great stuff, Turbo! Now it's time to :BEER3:
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Been cleaning parts....much fun.
Added mountings tabs to lower control arms as the lightest option I could think of as I plan
to move the front sway bar higher on the chassis. (I end up repositioning these mounting tabs...)
Modified the emergency brake arm to provide more travel....will it work :confused:
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Still cleaning parts and been trying to get my front Koni's apart for 2 weeks so I can at least change the oil in them. A week of PB Blaster didn't work, a week of tranny fluid/acetone mix didn't work. They laughed at my spanner wrench >:(
So I decided that a controlled application of heat with my jeweler's torch, a wet rag, and a hammer and punch were now the last resort. It worked :) (I know there are better shocks these days ....but the Twin Cam rebuild comes before $1300 shocks).
Oil definitely needed changed!
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One year and counting......
I brought TCST home a year ago today 8)
I still enjoy, and look forward to working on it! I thought I would be a little further along but most things have been
difficult to extremely challenging to get apart! I did lots of research and asked lots of questions prior to purchase so
none of this has been a complete surprise.
Thanks to all for their advice and encouragement to date!! Please continue to do both!!!!
Looking at it on a regular basis it is hard for me to see the progress until I look back at pictures...
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:happy-bday: to your project!!
One of my favorite parts about the board is people documenting their restorations. Yours is certainly not an exception. I love seeing how people put their own stamp on their car and it can be a big help to others who come behind you. I’m ecstatic if I can be of any help and I know I’m not alone in that.
I’m looking forward to following your progress.
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Wow, Kraig, it's hard to believe it's been 1 year already !!
Progress may not be as quick as you hoped but you'll get there.
Keep up the good work!
~~~Bruce
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:beerchug:
Just keep doing what you’re doing. Post often, you’ll enjoy the read when your finished.
Dave.
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If you ever wonder if the 40-50 year old oil in your shocks can deteriorate over time and clog things up, the answer is yes! While my Koni's seemed to stroke in and out smoothly the damping passages were quite clogged up! Glad I took them apart, they would have been awful on the car! I think I will add a drain port at the bottom and a bleed screw at the top so I can drain the oil at the bottom and then force more oil back in, bleed to screw to make this easier.
I also cleaned some more parts.....
Cheap baking sheets from the dollar store are great to use to disassemble parts on, things don't roll away and it contains residual oil that always seems to run out of things.
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Don't know much about what's inside a shock but those look like they're hurting!
I've been inside almost every component of my car but I'm not qualified, or adventurous enough to take shocks apart! Good luck! I hope you end up with great shocks!
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Same here :confused:
I just found my rear shock leaking fluid out of some set screw. good thing it wasn't my brake cylinder.
I just hate to spend money on shocks and purchased them used :headbanger:
dakazman
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The wear surfaces etc look good, just the passages were clogged up, the ultrasonic cleaner and a dental style tool seem to be working well to clean things. It was amazing how dirty the solution was after the first shock going through the cycle several times. The cleaner heats the solution which helps ( I use a few ounces of Pine Sol in the water which is cheap and works well).
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This week's Lotus fun...
Wire brushed outer cable housings for emergency brake cable and then sprayed with Rustoleum 2 in 1 Rust Reformer & Seal, then hung them and oiled the inner cables at the top until it ran out the bottom, they move like new now!
Added drains to front Koni's.
Repaired lower control arms on drivers side as trunnion bolt must have been loose and elongated the holes.
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Someone’s been busy! :)
Good work! Looking good!
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Hey Turboforce, just a heads up on the Koni's, make sure you take apart the lower shaft adjustment valving; bolt in the end out, adjustment tab unscrewed, spring, then screw the piston off the shaft, small washers and wavy washers too. The lower valving in the tube end needs to come apart too. That one really get clogged with many .024 diameter holes. The solidified gunk gets in the very small orfices and has to be physically removed. I have done probably 75 Koni's and each one needed the valving cleaned or the adjustment feature will not work.
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Thanks for the input Kram. I think I got all the crud out of the passages, I will check again before I reassemble them!
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My favorite brown truck showed up today 8)
Drilled/slotted discs, stainless brake hoses, caliper and suspension rebuild stuff, material and oil lite bushings to refabricate pedal assembly :)
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Christmas in November!!! :beerchug:
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Got these drivers side pieces cleaned up and painted today :)
I think I am almost ready to start assembling the front suspension...;)
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It's a great day when you start putting parts on the car rather than taking them off and cleaning them!!! Congratulations!! :beerchug:
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:beerchug:
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Excellent!
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:trophy: Every little bit helps.
One day I’ll count the number of parts we recondition during a rebuild. Looking 👍.
Dakazman
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I modified the upper front Koni spring perches with billet aluminum adjustable collars.
(They fit much better on the upper perch). I am using needle bearings between the springs and perches as suggested in " Autocross To Win". Coil springs can "twist" when they compress creating unwanted loads and the bearings will help prevent this. They also make adjustment easier as you eliminate the increasing friction between the perch and spring as you increase the preload. They will also help prevent the "twist" of the spring from trying to adjust your preload for you :o
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Nice! :BEER3:
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Turbo, I saw this by chance on Facebook tonight. A turbo with what looks like a 175 carb
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=4905639019470380&set=pcb.10159464118015871
Dan in NJ
2624R
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Looks like an 1 3/4" HS type SU carb. Might be 2".
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I think it's gone already....
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I think it is a 3 screw Hitachi SU (45mm) off of a Datsun 240 Z. I have the 4 screw on my car, but no Turbo.
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Two steps forward one step back....
Got the front Koni's assembled and the spring and perch with the needle bearings on one of them.
I could turn the top of the shock easily in both directions by hand confirming the bearings work.
Then it got hard to turn in one direction..... So I wrestled with the Harbor Freight spring compressor again ( >:() to see what the trouble was....the inner part of the coil had a nice sharp edge that was digging into my aluminum perch....at least I noticed it before putting the spring on the other one! It would have been much better to have noticed before the first one though.....deburred the springs and now need to rest before wrestling with the springs again ;)
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Good you found it early! Deburring that spring should be a quick job and you’ll be on your way.
My new spring compressor is a steel shaft that fits in the lower bushing. There are holes on either end. Then I have two J hooks, two pieces of all thread, and a coupler to connect the J hooks to the all thread.
I think you can figure what I mean but if you’re not sure, I can post some pictures.
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Shocks together....
Spindles/hubs together/disc centers painted with high heat paint...
Then I realized the trunnions have to go on earlier in the assembly process.... ??? Trunnion rebuilds next
then front suspension assembly :)
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Good stuff, Turbo. Don't forget that trunnions have a left and right and need to be on the correct side of the car!
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I kept them separated BDA.
The new springs and perches are 2.6lbs lighter (each) than the old ones 8)
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:BEER3:
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The new springs and perches are 2.6lbs lighter (each) than the old ones 8)
Some dampers can be mounted upside down . . for the easily excited folk who are looking to save every gram of unsprung weight. :D
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Some more progress.....
I debated myself about the arrangement of the upper controls arms.....there seemed like there would be no caster when swapped front to back.....is this right? To add to my confusion I found pics online both ways :confused:
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Caster for a TC is supposed to be 2° 30' + 30' so the upper A-arm halfs are not the same. This is also confirmed by the fact that all the upper A-arm halfs are different according to the parts manual. Unfortunately, the workshop manual doesn't help in determining which half is leading or trailing and even the section for inspecting damage just copies the dimensions from the S1/S2 manual - the upper trailing arm halfs for the S1/S2 are different on the TC/TCS. You're just going to have to make sure the pair you use will provide the caster you need which means the leading half will be a bit longer than the trailing half since the bottom halfs are the same.
Remember to tighten the nuts on the pivot pins at ride height so you don't tear the rubber when you have large suspension deflection.
Those springs don't seem to have many coils! Do you know the rate on them?
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BDA they are supposed to be 125lb...I could get them to compress slightly when I put my weight on them (153lbs).
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I only commented because there seem to be a lot fewer coils on yours than mine (my current front springs are 250#) but then your wire must be thinner. 120# is a very reasonable spring rate for the front. In that case you would probably want rear rates in the neighborhood of 100#. This is taken from advice from Certified Lotus who preferred 150# fronts and 115# rears. Of course, there are as many spring rate preferences as there are drivers so you may want to experiment a bit after you have it all put together.
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Castor is set by the fact the T-section is welded on at an angle to the main chassis section. It is not adjustable. If your castor is off something is bent.
The upper, leading, a-arms are all the same (except for the very, very earliest). The upper, trailing, a-arms are straight in the S1 and early S2 as they attach inside the T-section. Later upper, trailing, a-arms are angled (but not as much as the leading a-arms) as they attach to the outside of the T-section. The upper a-arms are handed as the ball-joint mounting holes are offset so the ball joint "points out".
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Your pictures are bit on the fuzzy side but things look to be correct.
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Thanks JB and BDA! Just wanted to be sure they were correct.
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Seems I read someone else had this problem….I need to shorten the threaded portion of my new tie rod ends because they are longer than the originals ….. :(
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Several listers have reported having to do that. Didn't have to myself but it was close.
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Here is a lot of information on the family of steering racks from which the Europa borrows, in case it interests you (https://www.macleansbridge.com/index.php/triumph-info/technical-information/22-steering-racks). Unfortunately, it doesn't directly address the Europa.
When I rebuilt my steering rack, I basically took a used Spitfire rack and added the Europa bits on to it - the rack tube extension, the tie rods, and the tie rod "cap nuts" (I think those were the only different parts). As I remember, the tie rods for the Spitfire were shorter than the Europa tie rods. The S1/S2 workshop manual has a page that calls out the different lengths of different sections of the rack (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/s2work/h/s2h.pdf). The steering rack section of the TC Workshop Supplement merely refers back to the S1/S22 manual and I'm not sure if the dimensions are consistent between the S1/S2 and TC since there are other differences that aren't noted but it might be a place to start when deciding what length you want if that's a question.
I would advise you to take the force needed to move the tie rods, as spelled out in the manual, seriously. Use a spring scale. Originally, I thought that loose was better as long as there was no slop between the tie rod and the rack. That turned out to be a mistake. I ended up using red Loctite on the tie rod "cap nuts" since heat was required to disassemble mine.
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New vs old
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Wrestled the rack boots on today. Shortened my new tie rod ends to match the originals and installed them. Started on the brake calipers (Pistons would not move with air) so I split the calipers and have penetrating oil soaking around the pistons ( I bought the square o-rings).
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I think I will bolt the calipers back together and try a grease gun to get the pistons out.....
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Those calipers look really bad. Hopefully you can save them. I think I remember seeing that stainless pistons and I think I remember an operation that installed (or provided) stainless bore liners.
Looking good!!+
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I used an hydraulic ram pump, however you can use your master cylinder to pressurize the the cylinder.
Dakazman
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In order to use my master cylinder I need to fabricate a new pedal assembly..... :-\
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In order to use my master cylinder I need to fabricate a new pedal assembly..... :-\
Or put the master cylinder in a BFG-clamp . . or bench vise using a short temporary push rod. 8)
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I think I will bolt the calipers back together and try a grease gun to get the pistons out.....
as you're going to replace the pucks, i have used an air hammer with a chisel and was able to free all my rusted pucks. Does the job! just be careful not to get near the caliper body itself, just stay on the pucks only.
Good luck!
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A common grease gun can create 1000s of psi of pressure, with $8 worth of fittings from the
local hydraulic shop, my grease gun easily pushed out my stuck caliper pistons 8)
It is quite messy though.....
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Well done!
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After deciding to order stainless Pistons for my brake calipers, I cleaned up the caliper bores. Then I tried to remove the brake bleeder screws that have had penetrating oil on them for a couple of days, the first one came out. The second one after several heat then cool with penetrating oil then repeat several times decided to ask Murphy to join in the fun >:( It easily snapped right off.....
I tried to weld a bolt on it but there wasn't much room to get weld on it and it snapped off (I think I heard Murphy snickering in the corner of the garage). So I cut the head off the bolt and modified it, welded it on......and success :beerchug: I was hoping to paint the calipers today but Murphy is a real time waster!! :o :o
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Bleeders can be a pain, indeed. I always smack 'em hard with a hammer to shock the threads.
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My first challenge will be trying to get a jack under a Europa with four flat tires.....
Those pesky little jobs. :FUNNY:
Dakazman
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Dakazman,
The aggravation level has been from low to high and all over the place on this project :o I am still enjoying it though 8)
That first challenge was easier!
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Progress update.....
Calipers painted (bundy pipes on back order, waiting for them to ship with my SS pistons etc).
Rear suspension disassembled with no issues :beerchug:
More critter debris in rear suspension arms :o
I was concerned about the condition of my rear stub axles and hub splines as the car was/will be turbocharged and since CW said boost would spike to 12lbs it was making decent power! There is no evidence of movement between the two and I cannot press them back together by hand 8) There is some minor fretting on the bearing spacers. Uprights were drilled and fitted with grease fittings....quite a bit of grease in them! And the bearings are still a press fit in the housings!
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It's interesting that a PO put a grease zerk on the bottom of the upright but then there might have already been a hole there (memory fades...). In any case, it would require you to fill the entire upright with grease to do any good. The bearings I got for my car were completely sealed which I think is a better solution.
Your splines don't look bad to my untrained eye. Keep in mind that you'll be using loctite that is designed to fill gaps in splines. I'm more concerned with the "lands" for the inner races of our bearings. I think polishing them up and using loctite for bearings (seems I remember people using that but I didn't so I don't have any real experience with it) should work fine - but I might check me with someone with more practical experience.
The rear stub axles are a weak point and if you have significantly more torque - and use it frequently - you should probably look into alternatives. If you are intending to maintain the stock rear suspension setup, you might look into a set of hardened set of stub axles. Lotus Supplies (https://www.lotus-supplies.com/parts/suspension/rear-corners/outboard-shaft-assembly-en24-billet-modified-tc/) and Kelvedon (https://kelvedonlotus.co.uk/product/race-drive-shaft-kit/) have their own. Dave Bean might have their own stronger stub axles but you'll have to call them to find out.
If you use a twin link design (either Lotus Supplies or Richard Mann's design) you might want to use stub axles from a VW (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4782.0). You could use those other uprated stub axles with these twin link setups too.
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Yikes! they are kind of pricey!
I may look into the VW ones......main goal is to get this on the road without to many trips down rabbit holes that end
up making more work at this point ;)
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I didn't mean to scare you. By "and use it [torque] frequently" I meant seriously high stress use. I did not mean fast highway driving, occasional auto crossing, or fun on twisty roads. With that, I should also say that I've heard of only one or two people who have had stub axle failures so it can happen. I think after you clean up your stub axles, they will be fine for use on the street and auto crossing. You could have them checked by a machine shop to make sure they are good. New ones are also available. If you are going to track your car, you would probably want to upgrade them.
For what it's worth, and it's probably not much, I still have the stock stub axles (though I know mine's history and age). My engine tops out at about 130 ft-lbs of torque. Upgrading the stub axles is a future project I'm seriously considering but for now I feel pretty confident in what I have. I don't track my car and haven't auto crossed it so far but I might. I don't go crazy on the street but I do like to lean on it a bit from time to time. The reason I am planning on upgrading the stub axles is just for added peace of mind and to strengthen a weak point.
There are other stub axle upgrades you could consider if you have worries. This one (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/suspension/aubin.html) involves converting a Corvair stub axle and this one (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/suspension/BMW%20STUB%20AXLE%20AUG%202005.html) involves converting BMW stub axles. Finally, this one (https://www.prevanders.net/europa/rearaxle.html) which appears to use a modified "standard" axle of some description. The website says that the builder's email address is email address is davea42 at linuxmail.org. Unfortunately, that car was sold a while ago so he may no longer have information and there's not guarantee that that email address is still good but it would be worth a try. It looks like a pretty economical way to get a stouter axle setup.
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Some shiny stuff showed up....and then was installed :)
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Working on brakes,I have to recommend speedbleeders, they make the bleeding process a single handed operation.
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Just cleaning up rear suspension pieces to paint. Wasn't happy with spring compressor when I used it on the front shocks so I am making a new piece out of an unused exhaust flange to hold the shock and probably some all thread to extend it....
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Fabbed together spring compressor works great! I had a far easier time with rear shocks than fighting with the front ones!
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I like that exhaust flange idea . . the way it properly locates the damper and prevents escape under pressure . . . like a cranky wife. ;)
Looks like it was made for the job and a lot quicker & better than making it from flat plate.
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I like the exhaust flange idea too. It's a lot nicer than my first spring compressor which was made from two squares of 1/2" plate and two lengths 5/16 or 3/8 all thread. The plates had holds burned into them in sizes to catch the upper spring mount and the lower end of the shock tube. I finally settled on a rod a little less than 1/2" in diameter with two 5/16" holes drilled through either end (radially). The holes are oversized to allow for misalignment of the 'J" bolts. It goes in the lower mount eye and two 'J' bolts - such as might be used for holding down a battery - are hooked to either side of the spring and the other end through the holes in the rod. A nut and washer on the end of the 'J" bolts is turned to compress the spring. It sounds more complicated than it really is. My springs are shorter than stock so this might be more appropriate for my springs but I think it would work for stock springs, too.
Just a thought...
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There is another guy undertaking the rear axel of the Europa. He has an add on Ebay for S1 S2 rear axel shaft and he is in Clarkston, MI. I copied the text of his add below. I think he is also working on front and rear Knockoff option for the Europa TC and is looking for hubs to borrow to get the measurements he needs. I am from Michigan so when I get back there I will bring him my front hubs but I don't have any rear hubs off the car. Here is his email: dvdmeisel@gmail.com Meisel Industries Clarkston, MI 248-245-7872.
The kit includes everything required to replace the woefully inadequate factory materials and design of the rear stub axle, bearing spacer and wheel flange.
Some advantages are:
1. All parts are made from billet 4140 chrome moly steel hardened to 40 Rc.
2. The stub axle thread is increased to a 7/8"-14 thread.
3. Our 3 key with smooth-shaft design locates tighter within the wheel hub.
4. Assembly procedure is virtually identical to factory original.
Free shipping to the lower 48 U.S..
Overseas orders must be shipped via. Ebay international shipping program.
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Moving anti-roll bar up.....not so easy in this busy area of the car....
I think I have a solution for the end link end......
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WHY??? i think it's a bad idea... keep as-designed original bottom position.
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I still have my anti roll bar mounted in the stock position but the first Europa I had had a broken stud on one of the shocks. Fixing it would have required buying a new shock. That could be a reason. :)
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......Why is it a bad idea?
The stock location is vulnerable and hangs in the air flowing under the car.....
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hangs no lower than the fiberglass nose along front, and shock bottoms are still only level with the wheel rim (the tire sidewall provides the 4 or more inches necessary for clearance) What road terrain are you expecting to drive over where interference might be an issue?
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Seems these have been in contact with the ground more than once ....
I live on the Eastern Shore of Maryland....some back roads aren't the best.
And I want to make it adjustable ;)
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there is NO WAY those links were scraping the ground....it's impossible. Unless both front wheels came off and you slid down the road on your rotors!!! :) :) :)
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I agree with Ted that the stock anti-roll bar mounts work just fine, even great. I've never had any issues, not even a scratch on the bottom of the studs. BUT, though it's very close to the wheel, there are conceivable situations where the wheel would miss an obstruction and the lower mount would hit. It's very unlikely but not impossible. Still, no plans to alter mine.
Broken mounting studs? My money is not on impact but over-tightening of mounting nut.
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A mate of mine knocked the stud off a damper during some exuberant driving through the Adelaide hills once. The wheel dropped off the edge of the bitumen road is how that happened - purely anecdotal, though.
Looks like an oxy/acetylene torch in that pic.
Are you thinking what I'm thinking?
I may be going against the grain but I like the idea of separating the roll function from the spring function.
Are there any really small/tight PU bushings available instead of the rubber ones?
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This seems to be one of the more economical places for PU bushes (https://autobush.com/4/Lotus). The Elan and Europa use the same front end bushings.
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I have never driven the car, that is the way they were when I took it apart…..
CW, any comments?
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MOOG have a large range of rubber and poly bushings.
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The stud was broken off one of the original shocks, a different one welded on and it must have been hit again because it is crooked (and longer which increased the probability of getting hit again)....
I am happy with moving this stuff up......
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The stud was broken off one of the original shocks, a different one welded on and it must have been hit again because it is crooked (and longer which increased the probability of getting hit again)....
On US Hwy 22, there was a railroad crossing which sat on a raised hump. ....At 60 mph with someone on my azz, I wasn't always able to slow down before hitting the hump. ....Two different times the stud got snagged on the raised hump. ....Hence the welded stud. ....I don't remember the link dragging on the pavement, but that is the only thing I can think of.
After those learning experiences I would pull onto the shoulder and creep over the hump before returning to the traffic lanes.
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hangs no lower than the fiberglass nose along front, and shock bottoms are still only level with the wheel rim (the tire sidewall provides the 4 or more inches necessary for clearance) What road terrain are you expecting to drive over where interference might be an issue?
On my Special, the roll bar is the lowest part and hanging lower than both the fiberglass and the frame. Are you sure your roll bar mountings haven't been shortened by a previous owner? ???
The damper studs are also prone to being hit by a 'well-placed' rock, curbs or the edge of the tarmac. Raising both the roll bar and attaching to the suspension arm at a higher point could eliminate that.
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As Gavin and Peter mentioned, going off the edge of the road is problematic,
Some of the backroads are narrow and you need move to move over and make room to
pass each other…..
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On my Special, the roll bar is the lowest part and hanging lower than both the fiberglass and the frame.
On mine as well. I've struck the links hard on at least two occasions, including my first drive in the car when I hit a rock while turning around in a dirt parking lot (thought I broke it first time out). I'll definitely be raising my bar when I get to that part of the car.
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No going back now ;)
I cut the ends off my anti-roll bar and sanded/filed the end round so I could slide
the adjustable end link clamps on that I made. Painted the bar and started cleaning up
my rear Koni's so I can take them apart.
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if you decide to go back to original, i have one i'm selling for $80
http://www.taylormadeclassiccars.com/images/IMG_3953.JPG
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Adjustable anti-roll bar end link....
(I end up moving lower mount position...and going to double shear on the top link mount)
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The cleaning, sanding/scrubbing, painting seems never ending.....some more parts done :)
Wrestling the u-joints out with a c-clamp ..... Lot's of torture usually severe ..... I miss having access to an arbor press....
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Looking good! I've always used a vice for u-joints.
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You can also use a soft face hammer. I use a lead hammer.
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I like the sway bar. Adjustable is nice. Did you mount it off the upper control arm bolt?
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Adjustable anti-roll bar end link....
The Heim joints and adjuster are in tension/compression, so they should be OK.
With the upper and lower bolts in single-shear, will that become an issue?
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Clifton, yes mounted with upper control arm bolt.
CW….I will keep an eye on them….they are grade 8 and 3/8”
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Glen broke his shock on his Europa on the way home from Don Butler's when we hit a place in the road where they had 1 1/2 dump for repaving.
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Low profile tires exacerbate the issue. I run 175/70 series and not a scratch.
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It looks like my car, run with normal sized tires, was used for off-road rally racing. Pretty much everything underneath has some evidence of off-road work, and the sway-bar bushing thingies (just what are they called?) are definitely flattened.
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This week:
-Finished removing u-joints and degreased the half-shafts
-Painted rear uprights
-Wire brushed/sanded trailing arms (used scotch Brite stapled to a board to do inside) and degreased in prep for painting
-Rear Koni's getting soaked with penetrating oil for a week so I can take them apart
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Nice work turbo, I don’t regret getting past that assembly. Keep up the pace .👍👍your doing great.
Dakazman
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What D'man said! You're making great progress! :beerchug:
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Trailing arms, drums and half shafts painted....
Almost ready to reassemble rear suspension....
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Turbo,
I am glad to be past that job . The universal joints , bearing fit , freezer time , lubricant on seals , thread lock-tite. What joy, but worth it when your done. I believe I asked every question imaginable when at this point. I documented every step so it may be a concise tool for everyone , you can skip all the polishing too. 😁
Dakazman
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Been mulling this over for a couple of weeks..... At full suspension droop and the steering at the stop,
my anti-roll bar rod end mounting bolt hits the caliper. I am not sure that this condition would occur in normal driving, but it could happen so I have decided to reposition it....removed mounts from control arm today, also sanded and painted my rear coil springs (not much fun sanding a spring...)
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I didn't notice before. The sway bar tabs look nice but the vertical flat that receives the fastener is on top of the open side of the control arm. The top of the control arm will flex as it's not supported on the open end. It will eventually tear along the top.
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The high level anti roll bar solution from Banks locates the drop link into the end of the lower shock mount bolt.
Needs to be bored and tapped on a lathe (bolt size escapes me atm) but I’ve never witnessed any clearance issues (even with much bigger brakes/wheels etc) and neither have I seen any failures (22 years fitted on my own car without issue on various sized anti roll bars). - might be worth considering?
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There's a ton of Alder uprights used on race cars here. The open wheel ones show better pics but this one is one a Spitfire.
Link to more.
http://www.britishracecar.com/
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Clifton,
I was worried about flex too, redesign will fix that!
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TF, Another rendition to contemplate. This clears P-16 Cortina calipers.
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I will be doing something similar to Kram that way I don't have to disassemble
half the front suspension to weld new tabs on control arm half.
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Cleaned and painted emergency brake levers and some misc hardware.
The majority of the parts for the rear suspension and brakes are in....hope to have assembled
In the next couple of weeks and tear into the Twin Cam in March... 8)
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Very good! :beerchug:
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Got the rear Koni's apart (as much fun as the front ones to do so).
They are dirty and gummed up like the fronts were....cleaning/painting ahead....
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"Lift off" occurred a year ago today!
Things are progressing well even though I thought I would be a little further along....
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This week I am working on cleaning the Koni's and assembled the rear uprights :)
When I used to rebuild/assemble/upgrade high speed industrial manufacturing equipment
we had a nice SKF bearing driver set, since I don't have a press I made my own version
to assemble the rear bearing housings/uprights (try at your own risk).
1-1/4 PVC fits the inner race fairly nice, I used a large, thick washer and ground it down so it would
hit the inner and outer race simultaneously (like the SKF set), I used a piece of cereal box to
help distribute the load/absorb the impact (PVC pipe helps too) and a nice nylon dead blow hammer. I put the axles in the deep freeze over night and the bearing housings in the sun.....went together well and the bearings turn smoothly.......
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Are your sons helping, or showing interest, in your project?
Did you use Loctite on the bearings?
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My sons are not helping much ….. :-\
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After getting my chassis off the saw horses before it was too heavy to easily do so, I decided
"Today is the day to see why TCST was pulled off the road in '78 for low compression in one cylinder".
Being turbocharged with stock valves I was hoping/expecting it burnt an exhaust valve.... well it burnt number 1 exhaust valve ??? Pistons tops look good, some carbon and a couple of dead flies :confused:
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How do you anticipate correcting for that? (Aside from replacing the valve. ;D)
#1 is also on the end of the engine. Is cooling worse there?
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Yea, that would cause low compression! >:(
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I am only measuring .004" clearance on that valve which is too tight,
It was probably not closing all the way when things warmed up to operating temp
and the valve got burnt......I hope to upgrade to a better material to withstand
the increased heat etc. from being turbocharged.
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Kraig, I know the clearances were set to spec when assembled.
I'm just wondering what changed to affect the valve lash. .....If the valve got that hot to erode that much metal, could the heat have allowed the valve to stretch ???? .....Could the valve seat have been pounded deeper into the head?
How are the cylinder walls?
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That’s a pretty standard “burnt” valve. Carbon build up or pitted seat leads to localized low heat transfer and the valve overheats.
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CW,
I believe you set them to the correct clearance.
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Made adapters to relocate anti-roll bar mount to lower shock mount bolts (they longer hit calipers).
Welded drains to rear Koni's like I did on the front ones.
Removed DIY cartridge water pump that CW created before they were available,
impeller did not come out with pump....coolant leaked onto auxiliary shaft gear....
parts I see in oil pan look fine......old antifreeze makes quite a mess....
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I used the original cast iron pump impeller.
Is the up-rated water pump bearing still free?
Were the O-rings on the cartridge still intact?
Can you tell where (how) the coolant got to the sprocket?
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CW it leaked here.....see the corrosion between the cover halves? It was probably a very slow leak (for over 40 years),if it was running it probably would have just burned off and never been noticed.
Bearings still turn....I don't recall an o-ring...will look tomorrow.
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Made adapters to relocate anti-roll bar mount to lower shock mount bolts
The adaptors look neat but why not use a longer bolt to include the rod end and a spacer?
What am I missing here?
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The rod ends are 3/8 (rated at 5100lbs) and the bolt is 1/2”
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(http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4034.0;attach=37945;image)
The small tapped (10-32 ?) holes visible in the pic were used to fasten the insert with the o-rings to the cartridge. ...That insert (or what's left of it) should be removed from the cover. ...The impeller was on the engine side of that insert.
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/images/WorkshopManual/PartManual/tce.pdf (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/images/WorkshopManual/PartManual/tce.pdf)
....Scroll down to Section ED where the insert (ref # 9) can be seen . ...The O-rings fit on the insert and seal the coolant from the timing chain area.
....One O-ring was located in the front cover, the other O-ring was located in the timing case back plate (Section EA- Ref # 38).
....Failure of the gasket between the back plate and the block would also allow coolant to reach the oil pan.
...I suspect the insert corroded away and that is where the coolant leak occurred.
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I do see the o-ring between the timing cover halves
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More disassembly progress.....
Found a dead critter.....
Twin Cam is shedding that Chevy Orange paint like it's the plague.....
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Is that the original factory clutch squeak, or an aftermarket one?
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Lol JB!
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Also went to my youngest son's work today and he machined my rear hub spacers....
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Cleaned out the coolant passages in the timing cover....quite a bit of crud in it, it would have instantly overheated. Cleaned coolant passages in the block too, used "cleaning vinegar" changed it and agitated it a couple times a day for 3 days, (with a piece of welding wire to free crud between bores and block sides) a bunch of crud came out with the water hose today!
Dropped oil pan today and was relieved to see the water pump leak didn't get high enough to hurt anything ( remember I got like 40 ounces of water when I drained the oil) I am sure the oil pan capacity (it was baffled too) increase helped!
The engine was rebuilt with a .020" overbore, balancing, high volume oil pump etc. 5434 miles ago. I will take a couple of bearing caps off and if things look good (bores look good with no ridge etc.) I plan to go back together with new gaskets, seals, rebuilt water pump and new exhaust valves etc.....
-
Do you know anyone close by with a glass bead blast cabinet ?
If you weren't so far away (especially with current gas prices) I would be happy to blast parts for you. ....It would save you a lot of time, and remove all corrosion.
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Thanks for the consideration CW! I do not have access to a blast cabinet and my compressor is to small to run
one. I will continue using old fashioned elbow grease...it is cheap and keeps me in shape ;)
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The beams on my connecting rods have been "polished", are they all like this?
Nice that they are "capscrew" also.
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No, not stock. It's a high-performance mod to remove stress-risers and aid in crack detection.
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The 45 year old engine oil that drained out of all the places it was supposed to lubricate decades ago,
turned into a mild "varnish" and prevented things from turning over with a reasonable effort.
I decided to take the motor completely apart, clean everything, put new rings, gaskets, seals etc.
and use assembly lube so things will turn much more easily. On the bright side the stuff that is supposed to be shiny is still shiny :D
I also have spare head gaskets etc. that came with the car.
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Looks good. Always best to check.
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:I-agree: Best to measure all spinney bit tolerances. Refresh valve seats. Make sure all cylinder liner tolerances are good. Confirm block and head surfaces are true.
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Don't let that crankshaft fall over and hit the floor !! :headbanger:
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I will move it to a safer place
-
Today....has bronze guides with seals and tapered in the port.
My "free" valve spring compressor....used a piece of foam rubber on valve side of c-clamp to keep from marring things.
-
Your valve spring compressor is pretty clever and economical of you! :beerchug:
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Don't let that crankshaft fall over and hit the floor !! :headbanger:
Or let the con rods bang against the piston skirts. Wrap in soft cloth. Ask me how I know...;)
-
The never ending cleaning of parts continues......
-
This week, removed stuck piston rings and cleaned ring grooves (ordered rings from QED), more parts cleaning, It was nice out so I took advantage and sanded and painted my rear Koni's so I can put
them together this week.
-
Made my own stickers for the rear Koni's, just printed the logo on regular printer paper, sprayed with
clear rattle can paint on both sides, let dry, cut out and glued on with super glue, sprayed some clear over them....not mounted in the stock location but you wouldn't be able to see them through the nylon material I used to prevent springs from wearing through shock body (Thanks PFreen for the idea!).
Assembled rear Koni's...ready to install....
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Nice work, Turbo! The Koni "stickers" are a nice touch! :beerchug:
-
Notice in my mail box today that I have an International package to pick up…..
Should be my piston rings from QED :) I think I now have all the parts
I need for Twin Cam reassembly……still cleaning and painting stuff though…
-
:pirate:
-
TCST was bought and on the road on this day in 1974 8)
Easy day for me to remember…..it’s also the Ford Mustang’s bday ;)
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:happy-bday: TCST!!
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Since my blood probably runs Ford blue, I feel compelled to remove
all traces of Chevy orange from my motor which is quite the messy task.....
-
I would say there is no place for Chevy anything on a Europa!
-
I would say there is no place for Chevy anything on a Europa!
Going to install manual window winders, BDA? :D
-
You got me, Gavin! :P
I also forgot about my Delco alternator!
-
Since my blood probably runs Ford blue, I feel compelled to remove
all traces of Chevy orange from my motor which is quite the messy task.....
All of the blocks (but you probably know this...) were painted Ford grey.
When I get my lump to that stage....anyway, something to think about...;) That and a nice red VCG instead of the black.
Oh, the list just keeps getting longer.
-
Planning on gray ......
-
8)
-
Pretty! :beerchug:
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Ooooo... purdy. 8)
-
Chevy orange now gone, head painted today and hopefully the block tomorrow.
-
I'm at the same stage with my block and head though mine only has the machine shop work residue to clean off. What method did you use to clean the head/block surface and did you use a primer? My block will also be some shade of grey.
Joji Tokumoto
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Joji,
I scrubbed it with a Scotchbrite pad and Simple Green and then hosed it off.
Let it dry and cleaned with alcohol in a spray bottle. I am using Dupli-Color with ceramic
engine paint, it does not say to use primer. It said it’s for manifolds etc… I will be trying to duplicate the Lotus gray since it has a blue tinge to it…..hope to try that tomorrow and will post results…
-
Lotus engine grey is Ford engine grey.
-
Painted first coat on block today (just went with Smoke Gray since I already had it), baked paint on head since my wife was at work today
and I wasn't.... ::)
Amazing how much better things look with a coat of paint!
-
More parts cleaned and painted, finished painting block, cylinders honed and threaded holes in block have all been chased....
-
Rings hand filed to fit and deburred. Epoxy repairs to some pits in the timing cover
and painted.
Hope to start engine assembly next week....
-
Great stuff, Turbo! More fun ahead!
-
997, 998, 999…..1000!
A thousand posts and still having fun 8)
-
Removed the last of the Chevy orange paint off the high volume oil pump, and water pump pulleys.
Crank in block and caps torqued...spins nicely.
Rings on pistons, Pistons on rods.
Challenged by Literary today to drive it around the block in 6 months......
-
Moving right along…
Ok! Six months! We’ll be expecting your report!
-
Started out this morning putting new spindle bearings in my 32 year old Craftsman die grinder so I can "blunt" the port dividers in my head.
Noticed a burr in my HF made in Cheena piston ring compressor so I deburred it which was a waste
of the time because it is about useless, due to it's failure I made it sacrifice some of it's material and made my own....which works but you have to pay attention...
Auxiallary shaft and rods and pistons installed....(I can turn it over by hand...)
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Looking good, Turbo! :beerchug:
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An “rounded” shape to the port divider will flow smoother than a sharp edge.
-
That’s what I will be shooting for JB….hopefully mine will look as good as PFreen’s !
-
Things are looking good! :beerchug:
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Decided to baffle the oil pan since half the original was gone after the pan capacity was increased.
Put a plate in the front and rear corner where the angle piece was removed in the original baffle to keep more oil on the right side of the motor. Also added a 1" square tube towards the middle to allow oil to transfer to the the right side, it is 1/2" off the bottom so it does not dam the oil away from the pickup. Increased the baffle's height and added a small horizontal plate too.....the pieces around the edges were added when the capacity was increased...hopefully get the pan painted today and get started on "blunting the port dividers in the head...
Made my pattern with CAD (cardboard aided design), cereal box works well, then put pattern on the metal, sprayed paint over and cut it out with grinder.
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It is funny that the Craftsman grinder is the same one I used in 1987.
I bought the head porting kit from I think Eastwood and made some longer arbors.
-
I figured it was better to change bearings in my Made in USA Craftsman, than buy a new imported piece of junk
-
Oil pan painted. Blunting port dividers (it's smoother than the pic looks), taped off one valve of the pair of cylinders, taped a plastic cup to one combustion chamber with a slot for vacuum cleaner, did fairly well at sucking up the aluminum dust.
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Nice work on the intake runners :beerchug:
I thought about doing that to mine, but got in a hurry to get it running.
-
"Blunted" the other intake port divider. Spent a few minutes cleaning up the short side radius in the exhaust ports (hard to take a pic), going for easy mods on head, I have a spare to do more work to if I need to....started laying out pieces for new draw through turbo intake manifold to replace the old system.
-
Went camping this past weekend so the only progress was that the tight radius investment cast
SS elbows I ordered to fab new intake manifold showed up....
-
Cleaning up some more parts. I was cleaning the distributor that came with the car it is a 41225E dated 10 - 73, I have a 41225D dated 6 - 72, the advance mechanism on both has "10" stamped in them, is this the advance in crank degrees? Is the earlier one more desirable (besides being immaculate, even diaphragm is still good)?
The diaphragm in the rusty one is still intact too.
-
The vacuum unit is a retard unit for emissions. Don’t hook it up.
-
JB is the advance curve any different between them?
-
AFAIK, and as listed in the manual, no, they are the same.
-
This week.....
Power washed my house so I figured I would get some of the grime and Chevy orange off
my transaxle....CW, what kind of paint did use? It's a bugger to get off everything!
Installed rear crank seal housing, timing covers, oil pan, gilmer crank pulley, started detailing
Cartridge water pump for installation.
-
Good stuff, Turbo! What is the sensor in the oil pan?
-
Oil temperature.
Used Hylomar for the first time today…..interesting blue goo.
-
Oil temp sensor... Ah!! I put mine in my oil filter...
Hylomar is strange stuff. I used it when I was racing for the end cover of the Hewland transaxle. The consistency was not confidence inspiring for me, but it did work. We changed gear ratios pretty often it it was easy to clean and sealed well. I have a new tube and have started using it again. I may be redoing my oil pan gasket sooner rather than later so I might use it there or I might use some Permatex that is supposed to be specially formulated for synthetic oils.
-
I figured I would get some of the grime and Chevy orange off
my transaxle....CW, what kind of paint did use? It's a bugger to get off everything!
Chevy Orange Plastikote Engine Enamel
After 40+ years, it proves its durability!
-
Today....
Cartridge water pump assembled and installed.
Oil pump cleaned, reassembled etc. ready to install.
-
I don't remember if I told you that the oil pump was modified with a spacer plate to accommodate longer gears (Triumph?) to increase volume.
-
Re: head gaskets,
I just talked to my engine builder buddy and he said if you use a Cometic head gasket, you should not use any other sealer. The gasket is coated with something that liquifies and seals the oil and water passages. Using other sealants mess with that. This is counter to my suggestion earlier (elsewhere?) that adding head gasket sealant wouldn't hurt.
Just passing along what a person I trust told me.
-
CW , you told me and I noticed when taking it apart ;)
Thanks BDA
-
Some minor assembly today, valves lapped.
I like the way someone used cable ties to mark plug wires on distributor I bought awhile back.
-
Valve lapping lightly with grinding paste is a way of checking valve seat width, position, and concentricity. It is NOT a way to fit valves to seats where both actually need machining. Most modern machinists do not lap valves and check seat width with bluing only.
-
This was all rebuilt 5400 miles ago, just freshening things up.
The valves are new, wanted to do a quick check to be sure they match the seats.
-
When I was racing, I was taught to be very respectful of the valve and seat grind. I think that’s good advice. At one point, for reasons I don’t remember now, I was concerned about the quality of the seal of some of the valves in my racing head. An engine builder I trusted cautioned me not to use anything grittier than toothpaste on my valves and seats.
Fast forward to a couple of years ago when I was adjusting the valves on my BDA. Without going into why (and in case you might remember the writeup I did on it, I didn’t include this part) I took my head to the engine builder (Dennis) for a very successful IMSA team (they won their class at the Daytona 24 Hour four or five times - that successful) to use his trick table top valve spring compressor. He suggested that I lap the valves before I reinstalled them. I mentioned the machinist from long ago and his toothpaste idea. Dennis made a joke about the brand of toothpaste he must have used and gave me a quick lesson in lapping valve (using fine grit paste). I can’t say I was completely comfortable with it (old lessons die hard I guess) but I trusted Dennis and I knew he’d probably forgotten more than I’ll ever know about building motors so I did as he instructed.
After reassembling the motor I did a leak down test. All my cylinders were above 92% which was a big improvement over my previous leak down test.
I don’t in any way dispute what any machinist or engine builder says. I’m confident that any good engine builder knows much more than I. I’m only saying what I’d been told to do and how it worked out for me.
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A light lapping in is one thing, more than a few passes is not good.
-
I am fairly certain they seal better than the burnt valve I replaced ;)
-
Valve springs etc. installed after confirming retainer to guide clearance at full lift.
Ready to bench check intake valve clearance.
-
Hoped to have valve clearance set today but I ran into an issue on the
intake side. My new intake valves are .020” longer that the ones they replaced.
This means I would have to use shims at the low end of the commonly available
range (.060”) which would make future adjustments difficult. The shims previously installed were in the
.080 - .082” range confirming the length issue. I removed one new valve and compared the length
to 2 different sets of used valves. I used some .045” washers as shims to determine where I am at…..
New valves 3.917”
Removed valves 2.897”
Other used set 3.902”
This kind of stuff eats the time! :-\
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Are the grooves for the keepers in a different location than the used valves?
.015" to .018" removed from the end of the valves should get you where you want ???
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That is what I am looking to do CW.
There is plenty of room from the tip of the valve stem to the keepers or retainer.
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NAPA machine shop will shorten them for $10-12 each.
I sent an email to Ray at RD Enterprises today about it....
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Still waiting to hear back on valve length from Ray....
Had a couple of hours this morning so I put the head on the block with missing valves so I could start on new turbo system intake....
Yes I know the valve cover looks terrible.....
-
Shiny object showed up yesterday.....old fan and radiator weighed @27.4lbs...new setup weighs 8.8lbs total.....fan is probably junk as far as airflow...SPAL in the future...
Was out of town last weekend and family get together this weekend....more progress will happen tomorrow....
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Now that's shiny!!
-
Worked on new intake for turbo today.....just taped together in pics as I have to add some tubing between the elbows and middle section for proper spacing on the head.
Water cooled .60 trim Garrett T3 with .48 exhaust housing to replace the antique Crane turbo.
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Got my the valves shortened the .020 to match what came out, $21.86 to have the intakes shortened at local NAPA machine shop and less than one day turn around! Reclocked compressor housing to better suit the turbo's new home ;)
-
Isn't it great when a plan comes together?! :beerchug:
-
Finished intake flanges and started welding stuff together....
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Nice welding job!! :welder:
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I concur! Nice :welder: :trophy:
I’m closely following your turbo journey (maybe turbo mine in the near future).
-
I am looking forward to cooler weather so I can spend more time in the garage,
it's been quite hot this year! May need to consider A/C for garage next year!
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Many years ago, I got a great deal on a used 1200 BTU window unit. It doesn't keep the garage cool but it cuts a lot of the humidity so it's much more comfortable!
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Many years ago, I got a great deal on a used 1200 BTU window unit. It doesn't keep the garage cool but it cuts a lot of the humidity so it's much more comfortable!
Was thinking of one of those floor mounted units with the dryer vent for the exhaust...my garage has no windows, so, I'd have to punch a hole thru the siding, but, if it keeps the space cool...and found one that also acts as a heater...ideal for those winter evening projects...;)
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Trying to reduce flow bias to the outside ports since they are siamesed...made intake port vanes..they go into the siamesed port about 3/8" or so ..,.. Ready to weld....
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Flange for turbo made and intake welded together.
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Nice work, Turbo!
-
Trying to figure out how to get from header to turbo....space is a premium!
-
Damn those cross flow engines!
-
This will work.....I can reclock the exhaust housing to any position 8)
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Cleared and baked intake today with high heat satin clear with ceramic in it... Looks shinier than satin, oh well.
Header collector looked restrictive (see pic from 8/18/22)...can't have that! :o Opened it up and welded new flange on.
Old bent copper penny (can't use a newer penny that isn't solid copper) and bent welding wire to back up thermocouple holes that I wanted to fill in with weld since I will be using wideband O2 sensor and gauge.
Trying to get bolts loose to reclock turbo >:(
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Great job with that intake manifold! :welder:
-
5 out of 5 bolts broke on exhaust/waste gate housing after soaking with penetrant for a week, using a torch, working back and forth etc.... >:( I have gotten two out so far...more fun tomorrow with them!
V-band adapter came in. Headers sanded, primed and painted with 2000 degree ceramic paint...will bake them Monday when the wife is not home ::)
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8) TIG welder to the rescue!
-
Good job!! :beerchug:
I've seen videos of that being done but yours didn't look like there was enough meat on the old studs to do that.
-
Thanks BDA....it was a little challenging to weld to them :o
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Baked header.
Reclocked turbo exhaust housing 45 degrees.
Modified 90 degree adapter to a 45, which lines up nicely now and will require a simple 90 degree up pipe to turbo :)
Modified v-band adapter wastegate so it would open slightly farther and "unshrouded" it's valve for better flow and to hopefully prevent boost creep....
-
Tacking new up pipe together brought back memories of aircraft welding in the Air Force...laying down and using knee to run foot pedal, right, left, forehand and backhand welding 8)
Pics:
New vs old turbo up pipe
Then new up pipe
Tacking together
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Nice work! :beerchug:
I'd say your pipe looks A LOT better than the old one! :)
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Wow!! :welder: :beerchug:
Amazing work!
-
Used this for backup since I am not setup to run argon backup....not "sanitary grade"
but better than stainless "sugar" on backside of weld...exhaust worthy I think...
-
Tacking new up pipe together brought back memories of aircraft welding in the Air Force...laying down and using knee to run foot pedal, right, left, forehand and backhand welding 8)
Oh, a hitherto aircraft welder, so that explains the very neat and precise joints.
I don't mind saying I'm rather impressed.
This is also some relief for me . . or at least that's how I intend to rationalise the thought that mine will never be that good because I simply have not had the time, practice, training or experience.
Brilliant work, Turbo.
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Thanks all.
Gavin I was stationed at Beale AFB....worked on the SR-71, U-2/TR-1, KC-135, T-38
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Looks like it will fit 8) ....turbo is above frame rail and within it's outer edge (framing square), I tried to stay within the "real estate" of the original build....started on oil drain (goes where fuel pump was) and figuring out oil supply line and turbo support.
-
Minimal progress this past week....working on a kitchen project....because "happy wife, happy life" ;)
Finished oil drain plate and ran oil supply line.
-
Still working on kitchen project but managed to make a turbo support brace that will bolt to a bell housing bolt. Started carb mounting using a Mikuni carb boot (bolt pattern worked with no mods) so the carb will be rubber mounted to help absorb vibration and possible fueling problems from it...modified boot for vent etc....
-
Cool stuff!!
I hope the kitchen project comes out as well!!
-
-Bead on tube to engage groove in carb boot
-Wood lathe "machining"
-Carb mounted
-
That Stromberg is a bit of a cork in the system. Why not fit a flat-slide Mikuni?
-
Great job there turbo, I’m in awe .
Dakazman
-
JB,
The Aussies say the CD-175 will flow enough air draw through for 250hp…we will see. I envision a Mikuni 48mm HSR at some point being installed :) ( if I was a rich man instead of a normal guy trying to get a Lotus on the road I would have already bought one ;))
-
This carb is also a known entity as it ran with the previous turbo system.
-
Hook up a A/FR gauge regardless. You don’t want a turbo running lean.
-
Definitely will be installing that! Going to reach out to Joe Curto too. (They had no advice....)
-
From Australia:
-
:pirate:
So, I was ahead of my time! :WTF:
-
You were CW ;)
-
Turbo system all mocked up and disassembled, head back on work bench and I am back to where I was 2 months ago setting the valve clearances…didn’t think the turbo setup would be a 2 month detour….. :o
-
Valve shims, tranny seals, turbo rebuild kit on order. Painted up pipe, paint remover on valve cover, cap cleaned up nicely. I think the tranny mount looks like an unfinished part and is quite visible so I decided to improve it's aesthetics...
-
Baked ceramic paint on up pipe and v-band exhaust housing in our new stove that created quite the kitchen project as my wife decided we needed to move the stove and microwave a foot to the left...cabinets were built in place so this involved cabinet work, new countertop, subway tile backsplash and painting...what I thought was a 30 minute stove install turned into more like 30 hours....there is enough slop in the hinges one of the doors isn't straight even though I laid out the hinge locations.... >:(
Valve cover ready to paint, valve clearances set, flywheel cleaned and painted and new pilot bushing installed, tranny mount painted....pictures of old valve, retainer, shim and bucket in case someone hasn't seen them in real life...
The two aluminum tubes added to the valve cover are for the crankcase breather system.
-
Tedious taping........
-
That came out great! I've used grease to mask areas. That might have been easier.
-
Good looking cam cover.
-
2 years ago today I brought TCST home .... 8)
I have learned in that time:
- the devil really is in the details
- perfection is the enemy of completion
- the more I do the more I find to do
I still enjoy working on this little car and can hardly wait to drive it!
A few pics of the journey so far .... basically finished the engine today :pirate:
I hope to have a rolling chassis by the end of the year ;)
-
2 years ago today I brought TCST home .... 8)
*** Deletia ***
- perfection is the enemy of completion
*** Deletia ***
Or, as I say all the time: "Don't let the perfect become the enemy of the good".
These will never be perfect. You can go crazy trying to attain that. Sometimes, good enough is really good enough.
-
:I-agree:
My car is way not perfect!
I sometimes feel that a steel car is easier to get "perfect" (but maybe it's because of the loose tolerances of the fiberglass or maybe it's just me). Besides, these cars are made to be driven and driving a perfect car will quickly turn it into a not-perfect car.
I feel very safe saying that you are in for a treat. It will be unlike any car you've ever driven and I can guarantee you that you will be impressed! I can't wait to see her when your finished with her!
Congratulations on your progress and keep up the great work!
-
Impressive work so far! :beerchug:
I’ve also used grease instead of tape for masking.
So looking forward to this turbo Europa running as I have ideas to turbo mine.
Keep up great work.
-
2 years ago today I brought TCST home .... 8)
*** Deletia ***
- perfection is the enemy of completion
*** Deletia ***
Or, as I say all the time: "Don't let the perfect become the enemy of the good".
These will never be perfect. You can go crazy trying to attain that. Sometimes, good enough is really good enough.
So true...
-
[/quote]
Or, as I say all the time: "Don't let the perfect become the enemy of the good".
These will never be perfect. You can go crazy trying to attain that. Sometimes, good enough is really good enough.
[/quote]
So true...
[/quote]
:I-agree:
Beautiful work Turbo !
Dakazman
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This week:
- Double checked cam timing
- Retorqued head bolts
- Cleaning transaxle and using paint stripper to remove the last of the orange paint...
- Modifying motor mounts (they were coming apart) with a no weld upgrade (hopefully for those that don't weld) - using urethane from McMaster - they will allow .125" of movement in vertical and horizontal directions (is that too much?)
- Tapered bearings for rear uprights on order
- 8-1/2" clutch and new throw out bearing on order
-
Cleaned rubber off of mounts...much joy. Drilled a couple more holes in inner part of mount so urethane would flow through it....Poured them....the urethane was thinner than I thought.... made quite a mess .... should have sealed it better.....tranny mounts are fine....ordered some more urethane to top off motor mounts...it takes a 168 hours for it to fully cure so the next pour should stick to it
-
Interested to hear what you think of this pourable Poly stuff, Turbo.
For some reason I always presumed adhesion to the steel might not be all that good but I really have no idea.
Also interesting is the conical shape of the inner steel sleeve of the gearbox mount.
As an aside, looking at your original engine mounts reminded me of a failure I encountered.
At some point, my RH steel engine bracket had broken through the large hole (a common S2 issue) and was subsequently welded back together by the PO but at a slightly wrong angle. This then forced a distortion of the rubber section and a shortened life. It's pretty much unnoticeable when you tighten the bolts because everything seems to pull together just fine.
-
Time will tell …. I sanded the parts that urethane is in contact with 60 grit and cleaned with acetone. I used an 1/8” thick o-ring on the bolt to center the plates on them and they look straight….at least the bolt will keep things from completely failing. I will completely fill the mount with urethane so if the inner part of the mount is contained in the urethane and the bolt is a fail safe, it can’t really move anywhere anyway(unlike the originals that have a gap at the bottom).
-
Changed transaxle stub axle seals today ..... Not a big deal really.
- Checked back lash at start.
- I marked nut fin at locking tab as this seemed a convenient spot.
- Used 4 wheel drive lock nut socket, it worked well.
- Counted turns on way out, pulling up on nut on way, as soon as nut was free marked disengagement point that coincided with the "fin" I marked previously.
- Cleaned it up and installed new seal and square o-ring.
- Used Dow Corning 111 on the splines on the spacer and nut threads to prevent possible path for leakage and to prevent threads from galling.
- Installed nuts number of turns required to remove, starting at removal mark made earlier.
- Back to where I started on backlash.
- Dollar Store cookie sheets are great at catching fluids when you take something apart.
-
Good work turbo,
I will try the liquid rubber on my wheel well closeout panels that are just fiberglass right now.
JB sent me a link on DANA, Ring and pinion interpretation by spicer. It would be wise of you to check the backlash. I believe the correct range is 7-10 but I had one in the 25 range. I posted pics of the ordeal on my blog. Ill search for it.
dakazman
-
Manual says .005 - .010”…..I am at roughly .006
-
[...] I will completely fill the mount with urethane so if the inner part of the mount is contained in the urethane and the bolt is a fail safe, it can’t really move anywhere anyway(unlike the originals that have a gap at the bottom).
Cool . . I had some engine mounts made up with harder rubber that completely filled the U-shape. That was back in the day when the local Mackay Rubber folks would do custom jobs for punters walking in off the street.
They were really too hard. The NHV went up and I didn't notice any handling improvement – se la vie.
That said, I still like the idea of limiting engine movement – perhaps one of those torque limiting dampers we see on modern transverse mounted engines.
-
Today installed new shift shaft and input shaft seals, cleaned up and painted
bell housing and tranny housings. Reassembly and attachment to engine tomorrow
and hopefully in the chassis Thursday 8)
-
Looks really clean!!
-
Despite the mess I made, the motor mounts cleaned up well.
Assembled tranny.
Installed throw out bearing, 30mm impact socket matches the inner race.
Piece of rope made installing the throw out bearing/clutch shaft spring a piece of cake.
I have 5 clutch alignment tools, of course none of them match.... :(
-
If you're looking for a clutch alignment tool, r.d. sells them.
-
Usually you can adapt one on hand by using tape wrap to adjust fit. I have also successfully just lined them up (carefully) by eye.
-
I will be trying the tape idea today….
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1/2" drive extension and tape worked great as clutch alignment tool, thanks JB and the Internet!
Almost bolted in chassis...would have been but I had the motor mounts on the wrong sides ::)
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Pretty motor! That's got to feel good!!!
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Before....
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Big improvement!!
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In! :pirate:
Fit much easier with the motor mounts on the correct sides ;)
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Looks great!
How did the molded motor mounts work? Fit right in?
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Kendo the motor mounts fit fine, However the right side one is at a slight angle when tightened up just like the original, makes me believe the bracket that bolts to the engine is off slightly. I don’t think it will go anywhere so probably not an issue. With them and the tranny mounts it seems fairly securely located!
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If I remember correctly, the ends of the mounting brackets were at an angle, not perpendicular to their mounting flanges at the engine block.
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Looking good.
I kinda like the cam cover treatment, too.
Questions:
Do the gearbox mounts feel a bit stiffer? . . which might be difficult to determine unless compared to a new original one.
What is the spacing of the gearbox mounts – bolt to bolt.
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Gavin,
They are definitely stiffer! They are approximately 12-1/8" center to center.
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Thanks, Turbo. :beerchug:
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Turbo,
Pat yourself on the back. Your work will be preserved for at least another 50 years. These cars are truly a art form in there own right.
History is important.You made your mark.
Dakazman
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Thanks for the kind words DMan!
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Figured I should make sure the turbo clears the chassis and engine bay bracing before I proceed....it does...barely....the T3 exhaust adapter I bought also will fit a T4 .... If I trim it to only the T3 size it will clear by about 3/4" 8). It looks like it will clear the body too.....still need to rebuild turbo and detail it!
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I forgot to add the 1/2" larger clutch disc I installed...
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-Trimmed up pipe turbo flange to T3 size except for one bolt hole that is for the turbo brace...half inch above chassis now and it is 6 ounces lighter now :)
- Working on tapered bearings for rear housings.....slightly complicated....more to follow
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I'm interested in how you do your tapered roller bearings. Maybe you could do a writeup in the Technical Articles section.
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Still working out the details BDA ..... hope to be done this week.
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- Cleaned and painted shock and cross bracing.
- Tapered bearing sits "proud" of casting.
- Trailing arms will need to be cut to clear for assembly purposes, shouldn't be an issue since 1/8" thick backing plate bolts there also.
- Spacers need to be .084" longer to give .002" clearance for bearing axial clearance.
- My 3D printed seal holders need a 2.0 version, my son is bringing his printer home for Thanksgiving 8)
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Don't you want the radius arm flanges to keep the bearings in the upright?
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It will still overlap the bearing and I will put the piece removed back in place so it is sandwiched between the backing plate and housing to hold the bearing,
this is so you can slide the assembly in place between the two ears on the trailing arm.
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Hmmm... Maybe some pictures as you're assembling it? A technical article would be nice! :)
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I was thinking.....the opposite side tapered bearing keeps the shaft from moving so there is no real need to contain the bearing race (except it's fit in the bore)....
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- 3D printed version 2.0 seal holders. Seals glued in with oil resistant gasket sealer, the seals are multi-sided and will seal on the face of the bearing race and OD of stub axle hub (this would require different seals if you use the Lotus outer spacer which I eliminated for full spline engagement of the hubs).
- Bearing roller cage needs clearancing on outer bearings because there ain't much room. (One on right race has been beveled.)
- Using machine tool arbor spacers to set clearance so more wood lathe/grinder machining. (I wanted a tighter fit than the Lotus spacers that can move quite a bit).
- One side set (.002" end play)..... hopefully the other one Wednesday then assembly...
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- There is .070" slop between ID of bearing spacer and stub axle OD...first 2 pics show how far off you can be
- Small cable tie is perfect thickness (.035" thick) to center spacer and keep it there.
- Waiting for sealant to dry on seal holders
Trailing arms modified for them to fit and cleaning up and painting front trailing arm bushings and hardware.
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Ta da ..... tapered bearings in gear oil ....drain plugs, vent/fill plugs and "sight glasses" installed.
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Nice!
But... not sure about using gear oil. It's a good lubricant, no problem, but, if you develop any leaks on a long drive, you could easily toast your bearings. Wheel bearing grease is a proven solution that works well and you don't have to keep checking the level.
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Nice!
But... not sure about using gear oil. It's a good lubricant, no problem, but, if you develop any leaks on a long drive, you could easily toast your bearings. Wheel bearing grease is a proven solution that works well and you don't have to keep checking the level.
Plus.....all that extra weight of additional parts! :FUNNY:
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That’s what the sight glasses are for…to easily monitor things….if they leak like heck around town it is easy enough to go back to grease…..not sure that the 8 to 9 ounces of gear oil they hold is adding much weight…if I didn’t try it I would always wonder if I should have :confused:
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They look good, Kraig !!
What weight gear oil did you use?
Any concerns about pressure build-up blowing past seals or blowing the sight tube off?
I've seen pressure blow past seals in small gearboxes without vents. ....There is a small pressure-relief fitting made by Alemite that vents pressure build-up but seals to prevent intake of dirt or water. ....It installs at the highest point of the gearbox. ....I believe I used 1/8" NPT fittings, but they may be available in other sizes.
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The fitting on top is a vent CW. Not sure what weight gear oil I am going to use yet…open to suggestions.
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My choice would be SAE 90w or 80w90 if the fluid level is up to the axle shaft or it's center line. ....Others may disagree.
Will the 3D printed parts deteriorate if exposed to leaking fluid?
...Will synthetic lubes attack them?
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Gear oil comes in a plastic bottle so I sure as heck hope not!!!
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Olive oil burns at a low temp, so don't use that.
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Which material did you use to print the seal holders?
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Rainer,
My son printed them, I will ask him.
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PLA Rainer.
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Gear oil comes in a plastic bottle so I sure as heck hope not!!!
I am not a plastics expert and I don't know which plastics are used for 3D printing.
I do know that polycarbonate (Lexan) is degraded by petroleum products.
Most petroleum products are in polyethylene conainers.
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I seem to find conflicting answers about PLA and oil resistance so I am going to soak one of the scrap parts
in gear oil for a few days and see what happens to it. These may be just mock up parts (I hope they work though!).
May switch to PETG...
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With PLA you will likely run into temperature problems.
Its a great Material and i use it for all my prototyping prints, but it starts to distort and soften around 60 degree C (around 140 F).
Happend to me several times when i left prints in the car at hot summer days.
I would use ABS, even if its sometimes a pita to print.
PETG is an alternative but make sure to print solid as PETG likes to shrink when heated.
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Today's minor progress.....
- Shock mount and cross bracing installed
- Trailing arm bushings installed into chassis
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I’ve been following your build Turbo. Nice work!
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Thanks Certified!
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My technical adviser (oldest son) says we are going to try printing the parts in carbon fiber reinforced nylon 8)
I am trying to find any easy solution for those that may want to swap to tapered bearings and use easier to contain grease...like
most things on these cars there is not much room!
Wheel studs from Rimmer Bros showed up yesterday!
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What kind of printer do you have? Carbon fiber reinforced nylon?!? (Asking for a son)
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Not sure…..it’s my son’s, I will ask him
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This may be a bit nitpicky, but if the parts in question are in contact with the aluminum bearing housing then glass fiber nylon may be a safer choice than carbon fiber nylon. It'll avoid any worries about galvanic corrosion. Graphite is right at the top of the galvanic series, but glass is an electrical insulator.
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:o dang I guess I will paint the parts before assembly :confused:
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I am trying to find any easy solution for those that may want to swap to tapered bearings and use easier to contain grease...like
most things on these cars there is not much room!
Yeah, that's a conundrum.
But not everyone has a 3D printer.
Ally would seem to be an ideal material for those seals (?) and a simple enough job, but then, not everyone has a lathe either.
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Gavin if I had a lathe they would be aluminum!
A 3D printer is much cheaper and lighter !
Buying a lathe is one thing, getting it home and in the garage is another!
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Not much this week with Christmas right around the corner!
Decided to make end link adjustable mounts double shear (still some finish work to do on them).... Hope to print new seal holders next week....
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Those upper ball joints...did you install the zerk or did they come that way? Asking for my own info, since I'm going to be replacing mine and that looks like a good idea...
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They came that way from RD Enterprises
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They came that way from RD Enterprises
Thanks! I have some older ones that were still in the baggie from him (circa 09?) that didn't. Guess he changed suppliers, which is a good thing having the zerk on the bearing. One more thing to grease, but one more thing to last longer.
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Finished my adjustable sway bar end link clamps.
Reduced front trailing arm bushing deflection by 20% by constraining them with a hose clamp!
Measured before and after with an extension and old front rotor for weight.
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Really cleaver idea, Turbo! Cheap too! :beerchug:
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Reduced front trailing arm bushing deflection by 20% by constraining them with a hose clamp!
Science. 8)
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We were able to print carbon fiber reinforced nylon seal holders using a $200 Ender 3 V2 printer.
Made a cardboard enclosure, used a dehumidifier to get humidity down to 30% in the room and a heater to get it over 80 degrees, also used a filament heater.
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Very cool!
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Two steps forward, one step back (so back to work!).....
- Decided to simulate running temp (since my garage was cool when I set the end play) and heated rear housings and stub axles since aluminum expansion rate is twice that of steel...they still spin freely 8)
- New 3D printed carbon fiber reinforced nylon seal holders glued into housings
- Polished "seal" surface on flanges
- Replaced spindly rear wheel studs with 12 x 50 mm Rover ones
- Upgraded turbo heat shield to a "titanium" blanket
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- The counter bore for my brake drum spacers (I eliminated the outer spacer to get full spline engagement) were not deep enough (I couldn't find my sketch so I don't know if the sketch or machining was off) so I did more wood lathe machining (don't try this at your house :o)
- Ready to start putting rear suspension on chassis :)
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Does the brake backing plate need to be spaced out also?
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Nope...this is to get the drum back to it's original distance from the backing plate since the spacer was removed from between the flange and the outer bearing.
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The existing 1/8" NPT drains would not keep gear oil in, went to 1/4" NPT and Loctited in
Some 1/4 to 1/8 reducers so they would seal. Installing u-joints .... Hopefully rear suspension on tomorrow.
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Today......
Love these wheels 8) 8)
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Before....
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:trophy:
Simply amazing craftmanship turbo, your before and after shots mad me chuckle.
I can see a few orders coming your way. Keep up the momentum.
BY THE WAY, THE WHEELS LOOK AMAZING. I may have to strip mine down.
Dakazman
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What size are your wheels, Turbo?
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15s
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15 x 7?
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Double checked my flange shims and found if I used a ratcheting strap to make sure the u-joint flange was all the way in, I got a different result than I previously did. So I reshimmed them and installed the spring pin with the strap in place. The spring pin is also thicker in one direction because of the way they are wound. I put this thickest dimension in line with the axle so I had the maximum thickness (diameter) holding the flange against the shims etc.
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Double checked my flange shims and found if I used a ratcheting strap to make sure the u-joint flange was all the way in, I got a different result than I previously did. So I reshimmed them and installed the spring pin with the strap in place. The spring pin is also thicker in one direction because of the way they are wound. I put this thickest dimension in line with the axle so I had the maximum thickness (diameter) holding the flange against the shims etc.
Ratchet straps have lots of uses...did this with my S2 to get the yokes fully seated back in the day (using the 7mm/4mm combo that was called out for that assembly) and never had a problem with loose yokes and got the holes lined up properly (yoke holes just an RCH to the outside) to get the tension properly.
Nice going.
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I have been wondering for awhile now if eliminating the outer spacer to gain spline engagement
would end up with the flange hitting the wheel cylinders.....
I no longer have to wonder because they do! Some clearancing of the flange provided clearance.
(There is more clearance now than in the picture as my new wheel cylinders are slightly different in shape.) My spacers seem to be good as the brakes went together and nothing seems to be rubbing.
Brakes were a little challenging as I didn't take any pictures as I thought they were in the Lotus manual.....rear brakes for Specials are not, so I had to scratch my head for a moment and look at my pile of brake parts.....
(I have new lock washers for the flange nuts, I just used the old ones while test fitting.)
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When fitting my spacers, the hub would lightly 'tink' one of the brake shoe springs so I relocated it to inside the shoes (where they were supposed to be).
I dunno . . . you guys with big brakes. ;D
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Rear brake lines flared, bent and installed.
Next project is make this pile of iron oxide into a usable set of pedals so I can bleed the brakes while everything is easy to get to!
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I have supreme confidence in you! :BEER3:
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I'm jealous of that first photo, I just finished replacing the rear flex brake lines on my 73 TCS with the body on. For me, at least, a very difficult job. Had to buy a set of stubby open-end wrenches after I tried for several hours to do it with regular wrenches. The passenger side was a bit easier than the driver side as the battery tray wasn't in the way.
Larry
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Looking good, Turbo.
If I recall, on an S2 and with the body in place, you cant subsequently remove the trailing arm if the bolt head is on the outside because there is insufficient room to withdraw the bolt. Maybe a TCS is different.
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Good point Gavin! I will change them, thanks for noticing.
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I’m glad you caught that GavinT!
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That's a useful one for Techical Section!
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I just checked which way I installed mine and head of bolt on the outside, the cooling tubes are in the way the other way. For the s2 at least plenty of room to pull out.
Whew you had me worried. Dodged that one.
Dakazman
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Having the transfer tubes in the way of taking the bolt out is not a big deal. If the bolt head is in the frame, you'll still be able to take the radius arm off the bolt even if you can't easily get the bolt all the way out. With the bolt head on the outside, you'll have to find some way to withdraw the entire bolt to take the radius arm off. That might involve cutting a hole in the body or unbolting the bushing from the frame - either of them is a PITA.
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BDA , So on a tc you don’t have all the clearance that’s in the picture? If I recall correctly it’s about a 6” bolt , I have at least all that before fuel tank walls.
Dakazman
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Some progress on pedal project today.
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BDA , So on a tc you don’t have all the clearance that’s in the picture? If I recall correctly it’s about a 6” bolt , I have at least all that before fuel tank walls.
Dakazman
It's been a while since I've been under there but if memory serves, I don't think there would be enough room to put a bolt through the radius arm and into the bushing from the outside. If memory serves (and it might not) the body work to accommodate the fuel tanks are in the way. I COULD EASILY BE WRONG about this but if you are not sure about the available room it seems safer to me to start the bolt from the inside of the frame.
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Some progress on pedal project today.
Great start! :welder: :beerchug:
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Bda I thought they, lotus, changed that dimensions of the mold on the TC models. :confused: I use my faa training on bolts, either, down, back, or in.
I know Lotus is not like that at all. front links comes to mind: FUNNY: At least you got me to touch the europa again. I needed to get under here any way to get a few bolts out of the y section. I didnt want to pull the body off again.
Dakazman
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Nice work Turbo,
I think I sliced up the brake pivot shaft so that I can space it for my large foot. i also carved a grease pathway on shaft.
Dakazman
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These round things showed up.... 8)
Kumho Ecsta's
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Yes, I understand that the TCs allowed more cabin room for taller occupants and that probably impacted other dimensions too. As I mentioned, the position of the fuel tanks may the biggest difference that is impacting this bolt. If you can get the radius arm off with the bolt head on the outside - go for it!
Maybe you can point us to the FAA's training on bolts or summarize it for us!
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Yes, I understand that the TCs allowed more cabin room for taller occupants and that probably impacted other dimensions too. As I mentioned, the position of the fuel tanks may the biggest difference that is impacting this bolt. If you can get the radius arm off with the bolt head on the outside - go for it!
Maybe you can point us to the FAA's training on bolts or summarize it for us!
BDA, I didn't know anything about those changes. I'm here to learn. As far as finding those basic rules, I only found one reference to an AC advisory circular manual which would not open for me. Here is a great references to many tasks. I know I'm old but things cant change that much.
https://www.faa.gov/training_testing/testing/acs/media/amt_acs.pdf
I tried opening , some would open and others not. I know Brian Boyle posted the AC manual somewhere on the site. give me some time
found it,
https://www.faa.gov/documentLibrary/media/Advisory_Circular/AC_43.13-1B_w-chg1.pdf
Dakazman
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These round things showed up.... 8)
Kumho Ecsta's
What size, Turbo? . . and also which Ecsta's? There seems to be a number with different suffixes.
I particularly like the wide central grooves offered by many modern tyres - good for a light car prone to aquaplaning.
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For the s2 at least plenty of room to pull out.
I better let that one go through to the keeper . . . ;)
BDA , So on a tc you don’t have all the clearance that’s in the picture? If I recall correctly it’s about a 6” bolt , I have at least all that before
Got a pic with the bolt removed, Dave?
My stock bolt is 4-1/2 inches long. To get it out, you'd need that 4-1/2" plus the thickness of the bolt head.
It's difficult to judge but going by your excellent pic and given the boss through the trailing arm is 2-1/4", Im still thinking you haven't got the room.
I'd love to be wrong.
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185s and 205s …they are PS31
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Got a pic with the bolt removed, Dave?
My stock bolt is 4-1/2 inches long. To get it out, you'd need that 4-1/2" plus the thickness of the bolt head.
It's difficult to judge but going by your excellent pic and given the boss through the trailing arm is 2-1/4", Im still thinking you haven't got the room.
I'd love to be wrong.
If the bolt head is outside won't you need to only withdraw it enough to get it out of the mounting bush? You can then leave it in the sleeve in the swing arm(?) while you lower it. You'd only need to withdraw the bolt all the way from the swing arm if the bolt head is on the engine side. I've yet to "experience" this so I may be wrong!
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I didn't want to find out later I couldn't get the bolts out so I flipped them around,
coolant lines are not in the way....
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If the bolt head is outside won't you need to only withdraw it enough to get it out of the mounting bush? You can then leave it in the sleeve in the swing arm(?) while you lower it. You'd only need to withdraw the bolt all the way from the swing arm if the bolt head is on the engine side. I've yet to "experience" this so I may be wrong!
That certainly sounds plausible, m'lud.
I can't now remember why I needed to withdraw the bolt completely, but I also don't recall the headroom that seems to be available in Dave's pic.
With any luck, he'll prove me wrong.
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These round things showed up.... 8)
Kumho Ecsta's
What wheel diameter do you have?
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15”
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Nice looking tires.
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If the bolt head is outside won't you need to only withdraw it enough to get it out of the mounting bush? You can then leave it in the sleeve in the swing arm(?) while you lower it. You'd only need to withdraw the bolt all the way from the swing arm if the bolt head is on the engine side. I've yet to "experience" this so I may be wrong!
That certainly sounds plausible, m'lud.
I can't now remember why I needed to withdraw the bolt completely, but I also don't recall the headroom that seems to be available in Dave's pic.
With any luck, he'll prove me wrong.
I didn’t intend to prove anyone wrong, it was my frustration thinking I put them in wrong. I can’t believe they made it harder to remove. The s2 does have the clearance either way. I shoved my phone into the y and snapped the pics. No pun intended. If someone has pics of a tc on frame I’d like to see the difference.
dakazman
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I am curious too....
D'Man ... you didn't polish those bolts? ::)
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:FUNNY:
Totally unacceptable!
Like the tires also .
Dakazman
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Almost ready to :welder:
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Don’t make the bushing/shaft fit too snug. The assembly may flex a bit when it tighten down to the floor.
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I didn’t intend to prove anyone wrong, it was my frustration thinking I put them in wrong. I can’t believe they made it harder to remove. The s2 does have the clearance either way.
dakazman
I know D'man - my apologies. It was a figure of speech and not my intention to offend.
Looking at your pic with the tape measure, I'm trying to account for parallax error. What would you say is the distance between the bolt head and the fibreglass?
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Turbo, see you made some motor mounts. Nice job. Did you consider solid mounts for both motor and transmission? Thinking solid mounts would make the suspension pick up points stable and suspension movements more accurate. Would pick up some vibration but might be a good trade off? Ran my V-8 on a solid test stand yesterday and it got me thinking what is the advantage of rubber mounts; vibration control, not cracking the block?
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Kram,
They are 86 durometer so hopefully they will limit motion!
The tranny ones I poured are definitely stiffer than what I replaced.
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Turbo, see you made some motor mounts. Nice job. Did you consider solid mounts for both motor and transmission? Thinking solid mounts would make the suspension pick up points stable and suspension movements more accurate. Would pick up some vibration but might be a good trade off? Ran my V-8 on a solid test stand yesterday and it got me thinking what is the advantage of rubber mounts; vibration control, not cracking the block?
About 3 1/2" Gavin, and remember it my bend in the rubber mount to angle it slightly more.
dakazman
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New billet compressor wheel and new turbine shaft, because it is lighter and will spool up easier (also more efficient etc), they even balanced them as an assembly gratis 8)
(All the internal parts will be new and cost more than a new questionable quality chinesium turbo but this turbo will remain all Made in USA!)
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The turbo should be good for at least 150,000 miles.....I think the life expectancy of a boosted Twink is somewhat shorter :-\
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Sticking with the turbo theme on life....my favorite wine (18%)
-
Wouldn’t that be more of a ported wine?
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Kendo,
It certainly seems so! A glass of this changes your perspective ::)
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Almost done with pedals.....left some room to use shaft collars so I can
be sure brake pedal is lined up with master cylinder to prevent any side loading on
piston....
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The pedals definitely look good.
I see too that they the TCs' jog outward more than an S2s'.
I can't wait to see more of your Turbo pics. I don't drink wine much except to finish my wife glass. :FUNNY:
Dakazman
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Going by that drawing D'man as I had nothing left of mine really to go by.....may end up bending them :confused:
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No .. probably much better for larger feet.
I only drove literary madness’s car, without shoes, which reminds me to buy a pair of sand shoes our drivers shoes . I have a 10 1/2 eee foot . That’s why I mentioned an adjustable sections on the shaft.
Dakazman
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You can give yourself some extra right foot room by shaving off the right and/or left side of the brake pedal pad and more space by shaving off 1/8” to 1/4” from the pedal itself. You should be able to get your 10 1/2 EEE foot on either the gas or brake or both.
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Thanks BDA, copying and pasting that to a “to-do list.”
Dakazman
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The pedals definitely look good.
I see too that they the TCs' jog outward more than an S2s'.
Dakazman
When I bought the Europa, which is now TurboFource's, the dealer bent the clutch pedal to allow more room for my big feet.
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I might try bending the brake pedal first but be careful that it doesn't rub on the steering column.
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Got slowed down this week...it took 3 years but all three of us (my son, then wife, then me) tested positive for covid for the first time this week >:( .... day 3 of covid and I managed to finish my pedal assembly and upgraded the clamps I had put on my trailing arm frame bushings...
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Hope you all are coping with the Wuhan flu ok and get over it quickly!
Your pedals look nice. Is the brake pedal meant to be adjustable left to right?
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BDA, yes. I want to make sure I am in line with the master cylinder so I am pushing it straight.
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Pedals temporarily mounted...hope to bleed brakes this week.... Good thing I made brake pedal adjustable side to side...
Has anyone else made pedals from those drawings :confused:
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The pedals still move when they are bolted down too 8)
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:beerchug: :pirate:
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Got slowed down this week...it took 3 years but all three of us (my son, then wife, then me) tested positive for covid for the first time this week >:( .... day 3 of covid and I managed to finish my pedal assembly and upgraded the clamps I had put on my trailing arm frame bushings...
Hope you all recover without incident from the Wuhan flu. Gone through 2 bouts. Had all the jabs. Still got it. Gave me time to work on things (just as you have) last year whilst self-isolating from society.
Pedals look super. Nice work!
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Brakes bled today.....took awhile using gravity/vacuum/manual bleeding (used PVC pipe to push on
pedal while doing the rears). Took several rounds of snugging fittings to sneak up on no leaks. My first time doing brake line flares and happy to say I didn't need to redo any :)
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Brakes bled today.....took awhile using gravity/vacuum/manual bleeding (used PVC pipe to push on
pedal while doing the rears). Took several rounds of snugging fittings till there were no leaks. My first time doing brake line flares and happy to say I didn't need to redo any :)
great flare tool, guy.
I used the Gunson EEZIBLEED kit when I did mine after excising the boosters and building the jumpers. Worked a treat; one-person job. Just a suggestions for the next time.
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I will have to order one Bryan!
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I will have to order one Bryan!
You will not be disappointed. Went from an empty/old fluid system to a full flush and bleed in less than half an hour.
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I second the Eezi Bleed. Wroks great. (Though it's weird using a tire as the compressed air source: great bled brakes, one flat tire :))
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I used mine last year on the Europa. I bought it in 1986/87 to use on my mini!
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"Things from above" (since body is hanging from ceiling) started today (since I basically now have a rolling chassis). :trophy:
Removed my iron oxide ravaged clutch cable.
Removed fuel tanks and only broke
one bolt off! Critter debris and lots of rot in left tank, right tank looks pretty clean inside and salvageable.
I may relocate sending unit to right side tank and run one tank to get it going....would
lose 10lbs of weight and offset drivers weight too....
Interesting that the bottom of the tanks are stainless....
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The bottoms are stainless!?
Might it be time for aluminum tanks a la TurboForce?
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Interesting that the bottom of the tanks are stainless....
I didn't remember them being stainless, but I can't argue with that. :headbanger:
I remember the driver's side tank leaking and a new bottom was installed by someone (not me). ...I don't think that one was stainless. ...The new bottom was totally smooth and it would "oil-can" loudly. ...I believe the original tank bottoms had beads rolled in them to prevent flexing.
C.R.A.F.T. strikes again because I can't remember when or by whom the stainless bottoms were put on.
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CW - both bottoms are stainless.
BDA - aluminum when either time or financial budget allows it ... would probably fabricate my own... time to get this thing going!
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That’s what I meant by “a la TurboForce.” I’m sure you could make tanks as good or better than any for sale and for a lot less. :welder:
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Repaired fuel level sending unit (it wouldn't move), moved sending unit to passenger tank,
upgraded tank fuel line to 3/8" stainless and extended it to rear of tank.
Ordered gear reduction starter, clutch cable, oil pressure gauge line and misc items.
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Some goodies showed up today 8)
The gear reduction starter is 3.6lbs lighter than the original :)
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Yeah, your new starter is lighter than the stock one but you could have had my lightly used stock starter that was OEM on my TCS for only $25 + shipping! :). (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=5760.0)
Of course the reason mine is for sale is because I replaced it with a gear reduction starter of my own! ;D
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Lighter starter = lighter wallet
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Painting tank... While waiting for paint to dry....
Installed gear reduction starter to make sure it clears turbo up pipe .... It does 8)
Because I am a pack rat, the next challenge is to turn my stash of rod ends, end links etc. into
a DIY cable shifter.
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Lighter starter = lighter wallet
You got that right. The lightest parts usually cost the most...
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Installed gear reduction starter to make sure it clears turbo up pipe .... It does 8)
May be obvious...but hope you wrap that section of the pipe...or a blanket on the starter (just to keep the radiant heat from having an effect on the winding insulation, etc. I'd go for the blanket...;)
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Maybe both?
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Haven't gotten there yet ....
Have this for insulating things...
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Tank painted .... top has Ospho, primer, paint and undercoating....
Found "Pressure Tested To (can't read what to) under the paint on the tank.
Back to figuring out cable shifter.
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Did you pressure test your tanks?
If that insulation you show is what I think it is, I've used it for insulating around my exhaust pipe, under my oil tank, and my battery but I think this is probably better: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010402?rrec=true And from the same company.
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Thanx BDA…may put that on my next order.
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Some shifter progress on my early Esprit cross gate inspired shifter....
Need to shorten the rod ends for the "stick" like I did for the bellcrank one....
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It moves in each direction :pirate:
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Very nice! :beerchug:
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Nice work on the shifter. I've been working on designing a hydraulically actuated shifter, and see some ideas in yours.
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Bainford, that is interesting...I wondered (briefly) about hydraulics while thinking of this!
I will be looking forward to see what you come up with!
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- Chassis has been persuaded to accept "Shifty" as a new friend.
- Heat shield installed on oil pan to keep header heat out of oil.
- Speedo cable lubricated and now spins easily.
- Shifter cable lengths figured out.
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Neat, Turbo. 8)
Is there enough room under the rubber gaiter for "Shifty"?
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Probably not the original one Gavin…but I might not want to hide it ???
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Shift cables came in…..I messed up measuring one of them :-\….new one on order
Time to play with reverse motion linkage, bell cranks, ratios etc.
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Easter and then camping (my Trusty '95 F150 needed some pre-trip maintenance), so no progress the past two weeks until today.
Discovered I needed to remove drivers side engine mounting bracket to install header.
Shifter cables ran.
Removed passenger side mounting bracket and drilled a hole through it since it was where my shift cable wanted to be ;)
Chased threads in transaxle case to mount rear shift mechanism.
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Front of cables mounted ... will add choke and defrost cables to bracket and then trim to minimize weight. ( The original holes in the chassis to mount choke and defrost cables were 3/16" out of square.... :o )
One rear bracket mounted ... will add a gusset to it.
In keeping with Lotus philosophy of everything serving more than one purpose my chassis is also my welding table since there are Lotus parts all over my work bench ::)
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nice welding table you got there, Turbo!! :beerchug:
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Some CAD (cardboard aided design) ...
"Pinned" 15mm shaft collar so it won't spin/slide on selector shaft (using existing hole in shaft).
One more cable end to deal with....
And it's getting much easier to shift by hand :)
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Pretty cool, Turbo! :beerchug:
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Turbo, That’s some serious detailed engineering work there , hats off to you!
Dakazman
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Thanks for the encouragement!
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One step forward.......
Braced the cable bracket bolted to tranny because, lightness=flimsy.
Made lever for side to side motion of shifter....revision time, as with most things on the Europa there is minimal room. My "lever" will hit rear frame in 1st and 3rd positions ???
I don't think getting into reverse on accident will be a problem as there is no longer 9lbs of momentum from stock shift tube etc. You will definitely be aware you're shifting into reverse ;)
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Version 2.0 ... now it will go in 1st and 3rd :)
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I usually end up making three versions of even a simple widget.
Version 1.0 is because that's the obvious way it needs to work.
Version 2.0 is a redesign because something cropped up that didn't seem to be important in the original idea.
Version 3.0 is to redesign the whole thing because what seemed to be obvious in Version 1.0 never actually addressed the crux of the problem and, in hindsight, neither did Version 2.0.
;)
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They say third time is a charm…..
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Inspiration for my fabricobbled shifter.....early Esprit one
Painted stuff same blue as valve cover cuz I like blue :)
On to next task!!!
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Nothin’ wrong with blue!
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Cleaned up choke and defrost cables (I at first thought they were just black knobs), made a new bracket for them so they would clear my shifter cables.
Made my own tool to remove cable bezels.
Removed the existing Piranha/Judson Magnacharger ignition components and SW fuel pump.
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Yesterday......
Thought I was done with rusty bolts.... Decided to remove and paint engine compartment/seatbelt mounting point bracing before lowering body onto chassis.
My arms weren't quite long enough to reach both sides of bolts especially since they were rusty and hard to get loose. Came up with some interesting ways to hold the nuts in engine compartment....
To add to the fun this was all done on a ladder since the body is hanging from my 11' garage ceiling :o
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That's good practice for when you have to adjust the handbrake in the tunnel . . . ;D
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Clever idea for the wrench!
As for climbing your ladder, who knew working on such a low car could be so exciting?
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Heck, it may be the first time a ladder was used to work on a Europa :trophy:
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Is that what is meant by "taking your work to a higher level ?"
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Is that what is meant by "taking your work to a higher level ?"
If you keep this up, I'll be forced to tell my step ladder joke.
I once heard about a guy who positioned his Europa over a storm water drain/grate so he could drop the fuel tank out.
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What’s your joke Gavin?
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This is my step ladder.
I never knew my real ladder . . *boom-tish*
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::)
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This is my step ladder.
I never knew my real ladder . . *boom-tish*
🥱😆🤣
Dman
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::) ::) :o
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Bracing sanded and painted, installed sending unit in the one (passenger side) tank I am going to run. Turns out the W1270 socket that you can use to adjust the differential case nuts is the perfect size to install the fuel sending unit lock ring 8) Tank installed with new fill hose, Ladder height is perfect to easily get tank in ;)
Neoprene/closed cell foam frame insulation came in.....
I am thinking of moving the water/methanol tank to where the driver side tank was and use that gas cap to fill it......
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Had a couple of weeks with little progress .... Honey do stuff and 2 kids saying "Dad, can you help me with my car?"
Frame insulated, engine compartment bracing back in (not much fun reinstalling on a ladder), body trimmed for emergency brake mod clearance and new shifter.
About ready for "Operation touchdown" 😎
Original genuine Lotus frame insulation available for big bucks :o
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Woohoo!!! :beerchug:
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Didn't like the ugly upper "transition" coolant hose so I modified my thermostat housing to use straight 1-1/4" hose. Making spacer to go under thermostat housing with a NPT port to use for turbo coolant line. Good fun cutting through inch thick aluminum with a hand drill and hole saw :-\
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Finished fabricobbling (hacksaw, grinder, file etc.) thermostat spacer for turbo coolant source, painted a few items, installed valve stems in wheels so I can get tires mounted this week, hooked up e-brake cable and spring inside chassis (much fun). Will buy new hose clamps tomorrow and plumb engine coolant hoses and should be ready to drop body onto chassis....maybe this weekend....
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Tires mounted.....
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Milestone reached this morning .... On the ground on tires that hold air for the first time in decades :trophy:
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:beerchug:
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Everything is looking very nice. It’s a lot of work so sit back and enjoy it for a minute. I spent a year, off and on, trying to solve an overheating issue.
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:beerchug: Footer,
lol I remember when my 40-year-old tires looked full when psi was 0. they were rock hard.
Everything looks really nice. I love the look of the twin cam just sitting there. ITS REALLY IS A MILESTONE, BE HAPPY.
DAKAZMAN
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Had a few minutes today so I finished this up.
Before and after...
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That's fantastic for a few minutes work..... ::)
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You got me Silver :o finished installing modified thermostat housing and hose, used strips of plastic under the clamps instead of high dollar clamps to prevent hose extrusion by the clamps.
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You went from the first picture to the second one today?!! Why aren't you driving your car by now?
Seriously, I'd say there was a slight improvement... :FUNNY:
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I wish I worked that fast!!
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Found the heater control valve and coolant temperature sensor and cleaned them up to install. The sensor had two NPT adapters to make it fit and in the spirit of "Simplify" I went to the hardware store and bought an 1/8 to 3/8 NPT adapter so there would only be one .... the sensor would only screw in about two threads, not enough. So I ran a tap through it ... looked at the package. "Made in china” so no real surprise I had to fix it >:( Ran some of the heater hose, they will be run a little different than stock to cool turbo center housing.
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Graceful me, while trying to clean up my garage so I can lower the body on the chassis, tripped over my mess today and cut my arm rather nicely ::) I am fine and making progress… it will probably leave a mark ???
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Bummer!! Get well soon!
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After cleaning up my arm injury last Monday (it is healing nicely), I was going to put the chassis on my dollies...I noticed movement in the left rear .... So I took it apart to investigate. I assumed because the other side went together fine this side would. The hub did not go all the way onto the stub axle and there was no preload on the tapered bearings. Cleaned up the burr and now have 100% engagement as planned and no more axial movement. Waiting for sealant to cure, then reassembly hopefully tomorrow.
Continuing to clean up my mess....
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The SVO Mustang I sold my son to help fund this project, blew a head gasket. Since he lives 3 hours away we towed it home Saturday to avoid trying to do this in his apartment parking lot. While returning the UHaul my other son gave me a ride home and he wanted me to drive his car as there “is something rumbling” ….. joy … I think a front bearing is going out…. So yesterday we pulled the head off the 2.3 Turbo motor and it had a blown head gasket as expected and a surprise…. the head is cracked and they are hard to find as they are known to do this >:( :( :blowup:
so no Lotus progress this week …. Still got to look at the “rumble” too….
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Man, that is a serious bummer!!! I hope you find another head somewhere. I'm assuming your son's head was aluminum. I think back in the day the 2.3 Pinto motor had a cast iron head. I don't know if they are interchangeable but it's a thought (that you probably already had!).
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Today produced worse news… the block shows some “notching” but between 2 and 3 (some evidence between 1 and 2 also) which looked like it was getting ready to blow but hadn’t yet… which makes me wonder if this happened to a previous owner and they just slapped a new Felpro gasket on it since there is no reason the block should be notched at this position as 3 still had a good compression test…...this all means the block should be decked…..
Not sure I mentioned the gasket was gone between 1 and 2
BDA the head is cast iron.
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Cast iron head and block! That engine sounds over stressed! Presumably, all the turbo engines of today are properly designed and not over stressed but it makes me wonder...
Sorry you're having such bad luck! That really stinks on ice!
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Project Descent has touched down 8) :trophy:
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I am stoked! The rear wheels and tires are about as wide as possible without rubbing and the turbo system will fit without cutting any fiberglass! ;D
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:beerchug: :beerchug:
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Removed water/methanol injection system(those two brackets weigh 9lbs!, they will be severely lightened as I plan to keep the two tanks in the spirit of the original build.) Moved engine compartment wiring out of the way and cleaned engine compartment for painting.
Two Facet fuel pumps showed up, one will be operated by a Hobbs switch and come on under boost ... It will be my "spare" if the other quits by bypassing the Hobbs switch and keeping out of boost.
Next step is to paint engine compartment :)
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Engine compartment painted, water/methanol tanks brackets lightened (3lbs lighter :) ) and painted, surge tank sanded and painted.
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Brackets and tanks mounted, made coolant catch can out of an aluminum automotive freon bottle
(making oil catch can/breather out of one too). Since the Facet fuel pumps do not have a check valve and I will not have both running at the same time (one will turn on with boost) I made my own check valves with no springs so there is very minimal "cracking" pressure, gravity will close them or pressure back flowing from the other pump. The check valve is to prevent fuel from just looping back through the non running pump and never make it to the carb. The "seat" for the valve was made by just using a hammer and punch with bearing in the fitting and gently persuading the fitting to take the shape of the bearing.
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Finished freon bottle breather system and got some bling today 8)
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I got my seal tracks apart by soaking them in a toolbox of vinegar and salt for a week...some repairs required :( Working on fuel system .....
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I’ve heard of using vinegar for this. But what does the salt do for it?
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I read somewhere it works better ... seems to be true ... chemistry is better (It increases the acidity)
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I read somewhere it works better ... seems to be true ... chemistry is better (It increases the acidity)
Did you consider using the washing soda/electrolytic method?
I was trying to figure out where to get an iron anode...everything in my garage is stainless or some other alloy...and you really need plain iron. Then I remembered that I had a shoulder bag full of plain iron tent stakes left over from my CW reenacting days. Shazam! I have all the bits now to try using that method to clean out my new old gas tanks of rust...and they are heavy, and at least a foot long. Plenty of surface area to react!
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I have not Bryan, hopefully that was the last of my rusty parts…..
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Pumps mounted ..... Not much room .... Had to drill one hole twisting a carbide burr with my fingers ... Good thing it was fiberglass!
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Installed needle bearings on throttle shaft, turbo torn apart in ultrasonic cleaner before rebuild, and a shiny new distributor showed up today 8)
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Change your needle jets while you are in there.
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Will do JB, didn’t you say to plug up the compensator etc?
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Yes, if the temp compensator “needle” is in good shape, just use the adjusting screw to shut it tight. The decell valves I block off using a gasket with no passages.
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Carb together.... Bought a B2AR needle and realized I have new one from 50 years ago from CW Tech... Interesting the new one seems to be brass and the old one stainless ... running the vintage one ; Did some cleaning on turbo housings... Before pic of carb for comparisons sake
Followed JB's suggestions too 8)
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I don't have Strombergs but I'd say your carb looks better now... :)
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Turbo cleaned up...bearing cartridge together with billet compressor wheel, new turbine shaft etc.
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Turbo together and back on motor....need to figure out exhaust and all the little things like cable hookups etc.....
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:beerchug:
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Went to mount my small alternator because the original was ugly and heavy, only to discover the vertical faces for the stock alternator mount were machined by a blind person using an angle grinder as they weren't square to anything useful to me :o
Then I thought about making a new mount ... And then "simplify...then add lightness" entered my thought process and I decided to use one of the bell housing bolts and a spacer from the hardware store 8)
Trying to figure out the exhaust as I am seriously constrained by the radius of the mandrel bends .... first effort will not let me use the luggage bin... I will search for tighter radius bends for my "touring" exhaust that will allow luggage bin usage ;)
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Neato, Turbo.
Never thought this before, but does an alternator care which way it rotates?
A quick search seems to indicate "no" but to be mindful of the fan direction . . and then I note your alternator doesn't seem to have a fan!
On the tighter radius bends, I seem to remember people offering 'donuts' which you cut up as needed. Looking at the pic, they appear to be formed from sheet steel (as far as I know) and are tighter than a fishes.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165836247562
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The way they are mounted on a Twin Cam the alternator turns the same direction as if it were at the front of the motor since it hasn’t been flipped around.
I have seen those “donuts” before, thanks for the reminder Gavin.
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Alternators can turn either way. The fan still works but it will flow air in the opposite direction. This is usually not a problem. The only exception being if the alternator has ducted cooling air. Not an issue in this case.
This alternator has a built in fan inside the body.
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$4 belt tensioner....revised "touring" exhaust allowing luggage bin use :)
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Exhaust welded with O2 sensor bung and support brace bracket. Brace made. Festiva throttle cable pulley/disc/lever(?) fits a Stromberg with very minimal modification. Need to make a custom throttle cable and bracket. Exhaust will exit by taillight...new turbo system and exhaust is 40.8 lbs lighter than original system :)
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Great stuff, Turbo! is there a first noise event soon?
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It seems there is always one more thing to do!
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Looking great TF. Impressive work. What's the story on the green alternator belt? I don't think I've seen that before.
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Based on what you are doing and what I have gotten into , I think we will always have “another” one more thing to do, even when done! What alternator are you using?
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Not sure why the belt is green?
Alternator is a mini Denso.
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My fourth grandkid(3rd grandson) showed up this past week so minimal Lotus work 😎
Drilled new hole in compressor housing to move water/methanol injector farther upstream to minimize bias going into intake manifold (that's not the injector). Using a Harley air filter until a later date to design something better (like everything on this project, not a bolt on, fabricobble involved)...decided to add a v-band flange to up-pipe as it is a nightmare to get to the turbo exhaust flange bolts and removing the pipe in the future to facilitate a starter change etc. will be a nightmare.... V-band on order
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Congratulations on the new arrival. It’s always something special, precious memories that last a lifetime. Enjoy them. Everything is now baby, baby, baby. At least for a couple months.😂
It may give you time to relax and get a new plan of attack. Transitions from one task to the next before being completely finished and tested is a good thing for speeding up the completion of the total package.
Dakazman
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Congratulations grandpa!! Congratulations to mom and dad too, of course!
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I brought TCST home three years ago yesterday..... I need to speed it up several notches!
I have made progress.... It is helpful to go through all the pics because when you look at it every day you wonder what you have accomplished ???
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You've come a long way, baby. :beerchug:
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Added v-band clamp to up-pipe, throttle cable pulley needed more pull wrap so I added piece of bent tubing that I split open. Working on adding breather tubing to air cleaner base.
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Exhaust can now be assembled with body on the chassis :) Finished air filter setup for breather etc.
Working a new throttle cable….boy is it fun to get that little cotter pin out of it way in there , glad the doors are still off !
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Looking really good! :beerchug:
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High dollar throttle cable bracket...a piece of brake tubing to guide the cable and welded to a piece of scrap I hacked up ... needed to plug a 1/8npt hole in turbo that conveniently lined up with throttle cable position so I drilled and tapped a npt plug to hold the bracket (simplify....) Replaced inner cable and made new end out of 1/4” bolt shank I drilled a 1/16” hole through and soldered it.
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Made a new battery hold down and did a few little things that needed done.
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When I re-clocked the turbo exhaust housing to clear the chassis the exhaust housing interfered with turbo oil drain … I bought an extended drain which hit the chassis … so I modified it … installed a pre-bent 45 degree coolant hose to water pump housing inlet …. I had much joy attaching the emergency brake cable arm that I modified for more travel to it’s cable (darned tough trying to get two hands in there :o) … found some loose nuts in the interior (walnuts that is …. :-\)
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Good times… good times! ;D
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Progress. :beerchug:
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I had a joyous time getting the steering shaft clamped to the rack and getting the steering wheel straight. (Unfortunately I had to do it more than once to get the steering wheel straight). Much joy also getting the bolts in that hold the steering column to the dash >:(. Got the parking brake ratcheting mechanism to work and soaked the limit switch in vinegar/salt solution because it didn’t work …now it does (You can see how the corrosion discolored the vinegar)
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I did have a moment of some concern today… I have been easily moving the rack and wheels etc. with just a wrench on the “ D” part of the steering shaft … after I got the steering wheel installed and straight etc it would no longer steer …. I thought WTH … then I thought maybe this thing has a steering lock … it does ::) … now the problem was, where did I put those keys 3 years ago :o
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Painted where the pedals will go as it may be awhile before this thing gets carpet. The steering shaft seal wasn’t lined up with the shaft so I made my own gasket. Got side tracked while waiting for paint to dry and cleaned up the license plate lights. Right side taillight looks like it had water in it quite awhile, probably why the lower right hand lens screw broke off …. Corrosion.
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It's such a small, simple car, yet the bits & pieces seem endless. Nice progress.
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Nothing picture worthy…just trying to clean up wiring connections, is there a special tool to get the bullet connectors apart?
Progress has slowed as I am also involved in an engine rebuild for my son’s SVO Mustang…CNC ported head with roller cam , Carillo pistons, ARP bolts, ported exhaust manifold etc 8)
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I didn't go that far into a reconditioned assembly. the rivets holding them deterred me.
I do know there is an insertion tool, just push it out . plan on replacing the bullets, crimping the wires in a new end or as I did soldering them in.
Thats another one of my gripes with the schematic, they don't show all that's needed.
Dakazman
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Dunno if there's a tool for the bullet connectors. I imagine there isn't because there's no way I can see to get at the bullet once it's pushed in. On the occasions I've tried, I was surprised at the force they withstood and still pulled out OK.
That said, I did find an obstinate one and ended up cutting the black insulation off to extract the bullets. Replaced same with heat shrink tube. These days you can get heat shrink with glue inside and it seems to be thicker than the usual stuff.
The whole bullet connector system invites corrosion IMHO. They're often positioned horizontally in rainy areas where the curved ends of the plastic insulation can retain water.
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...is there a special tool to get the bullet connectors apart?
I hate those (but that's just me) but there are tools for bullet connectors. r.d. enterprises sells them. Check out the "Tool Chest" link on the left of their page.
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Had a look at RD's site.
They have a "Bullet Assembly Plier" (pic below) which appears to be an aid for snapping in the bullets but I can't see how it can do disassembly ?
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I thought you just let time and moisture do the disassembly for you?
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Decided I should get out in the cold garage and get back to it!
Cleaned up rusty taillight backup light reflector housings, lenses etc, sill cleaning up connectors.
Bought an electrical connector cleaning tool set from NAPA(#8040) seems to work on flat connectors.
Still working on engine rebuild for my son … have had some parts issues ….imagine that >:(
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Yesterday I decided to make sure I had continuity in the taillights from the ground wire through the bulbs and their power wires, I do now.
A gun cleaning brush works well on the bulb sockets.
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Had a look at RD's site.
They have a "Bullet Assembly Plier" (pic below) which appears to be an aid for snapping in the bullets but I can't see how it can do disassembly ?
It can't. The dissimilar metal corrosion between the tin plated double female and brass alloy bullet strikes again.
Get a selection of bullet ends and the proper crimp tool, cut the old ones off, strip the wire, crimp on new one. You loose 1/4" in length, but you have a new, fresh (mostly) uncorroded crimped bullet on the end. Sometimes it's just easier.
When you put them back together, get yourself a bottle of Penetrox from the local big box hardware store of choice, smear a little on the bullet, and push together. Problem solved for the time you will own the car.
(side note...one of the reasons Jag electrical systems are so fragile is the number of those bloody things they used to connect the rat's nest of wiring in the cars...Lotus are just as bad...I could tell you stories of reterminating the entire harness from 693R back in '07...but to this day (AFAIK) the subsequent owner has not had any electrical gremlins...)
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More wiring harness joy today :o I learned the wiring colors don't necessarily match the diagram ???
And to make yesterday a real bummer, a non-English speaking (made communication challenging) out of state licensed, poorly insured lady decided to turn left from the center lane in front of my son who was in the left lane and screwed his 2002 40th Anniversary Edition Grand Prix all up (his Grandmother gave it to him) >:( .
He didn't get a ticket...police said her fault...waiting to hear back from her insurance....
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Bad luck for your kid! Hopefully your insurance company will fix things!
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Sorry to hear that news Turbo,
I don't want to tell anyone about my daughters new dilemma , but it involves a squatter.
so far 2024 is not going well.
Dakazman
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What is wrong with people these D’Man?
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40 degrees in the garage today …. made a new ground strap for the one chassis ground to relocate it away from the turbo …. working on gated oil pan baffles for the SVO …. have not heard back from the guilty party that caused the accident of my son’s Grand Prix >:(
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Peeled rear wiring harness apart as my fuel gauge sending unit is on the right now instead of the left as I am running one tank. Seam ripper works well to get tape off the harness.
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More wiring fun this week ...... :-\
Also found out the lady that tore up my son's car let her insurance lapse >:( >:( >:( ....
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Working on a baffling situation for my son…. ::)
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Neato, Turbo.
The pivot pins on those 'doors' look quite substantial.
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The price was right for the hinges :confused:
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Still working on the SVO ... good news, I had "uninsured motorist" so my insurance "totaled" the Grand Prix even though it's driveable and gave me a check :) ... we will fix it as I won't have to get a salvage or rebuild title here.
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Got some time on TCST today …some more stuff wired and some heat protection …space is at a premium, made coil mount that bolts to intake.
Baffled SVO oil pan (horizontal ones …copper because I have big roll I got for free and can cut it with tin snips and TIG with silicon bronze)
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Usual nice work! :beerchug:
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Onto to the terror within…. :o
Removed the six added gauges, cleaning wiring connections, removed most of the grubby carpet.
I discovered my VIN number hand written by some English bloke at Lotus in my interior 8)
Then it looks like “1AWNP” :confused: anyone know what that means?
I feel like I will be crippled after working on the interior , glad the doors are off !
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Still working on wiring, made short adapter wires for new fan and temp sensor since they have different connections than the original otter switch etc. I was going to pull the gauges out of the dash but on some of them the stud just spins in the gauge >:( I don’t really want to pull the dash yet …. Found the VIN number on the rear bulkhead/firewall also. Painted around radiator opening so I can install it and not have to pull it out to paint the forward compartment.
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Are you fitting a relay to power the fan triggered by the temperature sensor?
Apologies if you are already aware - you might have mentioned it and this is a long thread..... The original otter switches could handle the current to power the fan, but more modern sensors are only intended to handle the current to power a relay, with the relay handling the current delivery.
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SilverBeast,
I am aware of the possible need for a relay but have not gotten that far yet,
I need to research the rating of the new temp switch. Thanks for the reminder ;)
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Test fit …. Being “thrifty”, I will try the fan that came with the radiator realizing I will probably have to upgrade it (many parts etc. ahead that still need purchased). Of course the holes didn’t quite line up etc…fan is sealed to the radiator so all the air goes through it .
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I also wouldn't risk current through a temp switch. it can take it but relays can designed to do it. If you want reliable without worry later.
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Planning on getting a relay tomorrow ;)
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A Spring like 47 degrees in the garage this morning …. :-\
Cleaned and painted the “frunk” on Saturday and my back is still complaining… :o ...cleaned up front wiring harness today and installed relay for the fan.
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I forgot to mention my 51 year old Tudor washer fluid bag doesn’t leak!
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Make sure you clean out your washer bag! I didn't realize mine had junk in it and I clogged up my washer pump. Thinking I had a bad pump I tried to take it out but couldn't get to it so I replaced the whole thing with a washer tank with its own pump.
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Already did BDA !
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Hanging out under the dash today …. :help: Speedo cable, oil pressure gauge line and pedals installed.
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Ahhh! The Lotus position! :pirate:
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Mine had carpet behind the pedals. Are you leaving it painted but uncarpeted?
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Not sure at this point Kendo …. Just want to drive it ….
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There is that!
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Hanging out with my son working on the “Distraction” ……
Lotus work to continue soon 8)
Carillo pistons, CNC ported head with roller cam, baffled oil pan, ARP bolts and studs, welded up and ported exhaust manifold, 3” down pipe and exhaust etc.
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That manifold takes a big carburetor!! If the rest of the engine can handle the carburetor, it should go like stink!
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That’s the lower half of the intake, it’s turbocharged…..
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I may have a problem…… currently their is TCST which has a turbo, an SVO Mustang which is a 4 cylinder turbo, a 4 cylinder Chevy Malibu LTZ turbo and the complete drivetrain out of a Merkur XR4Ti (4 cylinder turbo) at my house …..I guess my screen name is very fitting ???
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I was thinking that!
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Almost done with “the Distraction “ …. Lotus work will resume tomorrow 8)
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The struggle resumes … unfortunately I do mean struggle :-\
The Europa specific radiator hoses I bought didn’t work, the bottom one needed cut and spun because the bend orientation to each other was wrong and the bend was larger so I had to trim some fiberglass to get it on the coolant tube. The upper one needed cut and spun to reorient the bends and shortened almost 2 inches :(. Adding two pieces of aluminum tubing and 4 more hoses clamps is not “simplify”. The clutch cable abutment bracket holes did not line up with the original hole spacing and were closer together so I made a threaded plate to spread the load….why does everything have to be a challenge :confused:
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why does everything have to be a challenge
It’s a Europa, Turbo! That’s why! ;D
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Still plugging along …. nothing picture worthy ….
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Turbo, I feel your pain, :I-agree:
I made a bracket for the clutch cable also. my hoses weren't perfect either off Ebay ,but I'm sure you'll work it out. Sometimes it feels like I'm going in circles so then I start another task that will also give me a problem. Makes sense doesn't it? :headbanger:
so just keep moving forward.
D'man
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*** DELETIA****
...why does everything have to be a challenge :confused:
Never surprised at anything I come across. I think it comes down to the manual assembly nature of the car and the 'as it comes down the line, make it fit' nature of the production. EVERYTHING takes a bit of 'fettling'.
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Went to a British car show today because the featured marque was Lotus ….ironically the
damp gloomy English weather kept the cars away …. ???
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Minus the white circle, that Elan is sexy AF!
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It was beautiful!
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Made an adjustable pedal stop so I can easily adjust how close the pedals are to me…
I was able to salvage the passenger seat track to use on the drivers seat because it’s set was fairly dissolved from water like the pedal set was …. so much to my dismay but also logical, the seat foam absorbed that water like a sponge and lightened the seat far more than I anticipated :-\
Is there a seat drawing available ?
What are seat options? Thought I was past the fabrication stage …. :o :( …