0453R Rockledge Florida

[jbcollier]

U-joints I have used and worked well:  GKN, Hardy Spicer and SKF.

U-joints junk right out of the the box: GMG

[dakazman]

Good to know, JB
  I did my vette’s 12 years ago but don’t know what make I put in. There was a lot more room to press out too.
  And idea where that pdf of part numbers are . I just can’t find it.
Dave

[jbcollier]

It's the same u-joint as used in Triumph Spitfire half-shafts and drive shafts.

[BDA]

Will this help:
R   U-Joints, type U-50   46D6005   Hardy Spicer K5 GB150, Borg Warner 114 514, Neapco 1-300 (TR Spitfire)

[dakazman]

Yes,  thanks BDA .
Ordering parts have been increased to get thing done.
Dave

[dakazman]

Don't know if you have this, a Golden Gate Lotus
parts cross reference. It may help sometime.
http://gglotus.org/ggpart/europacr.htm

Reading over past posts I found it , Thanks Andy.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

Nearly completed all new brake lines but I missed two female connections and the metric connections were o the MC.  I wish I would have taken the advice of some members and purchased another flaring tool. I said to myself, how bad it be. After 2 hours I finally mastered the bubble flare with consistency.
 I watched several videos online that were somewhat useful and used the information provided with the flaring tool I’ve had for decades.
What a mistake! 
  Not that I didn’t finish what I set out to do, I did but my advice to other members buy the new type tool. The old style tool needs to be super tight to achieve the bubble flare. The directions on the tool box gives a dimension to use , however going longer on the length gave a longer bubble look. The chamfering of the line inside and out along with the deburring is paramount. Followed by a good lube on the base of adapter. Extra long tubing to hold the flaring tool and wrench it down is my final tip.
 Dakazman
 

[Certified Lotus]

Practice makes perfect Dave! Nice work. Question, some of those lines above the chassis look like they will contact the body?

[dakazman]

  The lines under the 1/4 line clamps have 3M Teflon gasket tape wrapped around the line. The trailing arms are touching because the original lines there were longer than necessary so they will be modified when I mount the uprights and brake assembly.  There is a 1/16 clearance.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Bending brake lines is an art. I can't relate to your bubble flare woes because I used 37 degree flares but it looks like bubble flares are harder to make. As John Muir said in "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: A Manual of Step-by-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot", my first car repair/maintenance book, "Perseverance furthers."

[dakazman]

  Before opening my fuel tank I purchased a gasket first . The tank is in exceptional condition however the sending unit will need to go . R&D only has the tc unit , any ideas on a universal sender for a
2 1/2” opening S2 .
Dakazman

Just checked the DB catalog the s2 sender is NLA. They suggest using the S1 sender with a big
Anyone try that?

[jbcollier]

Check with Richard at Europa Engineering.  If anyone has a solution, he does.

[BDA]

I agree with JB that Richard (or now Nick & Dave at Lotus Supplies Ltd.) would likely have a solution but I wouldn't put any faith in Dave Bean's catalog being up to date nor would I refer to their website as it has never been updated. I would give Ken at Dave Bean a call. Given all the S2s in California, I might expect he'll have a solution. If he does, it might be a little more cost efficient. Ken is a great guy and he has A LOT of experience and another good guy to get to know.

[dakazman]

  Found out a few things about the original sender .
Smith’s Industry UK, TBS1514/001 patent number 941563, the 5 maybe a 3.
After dissembling I found the broken winding . The range is approximately 40 - 280 Ohms.

  Nosingers has a rebuilding service however mine may be unrepairable due to the float arm-is seized.
 
I will call Nick and Dave maybe tomorrow,🤪 babysitting ...I also checking the feasibility of adapting a universal sender arm and use the winding .

Dakazman

[BDA]

My experience with Nisonger's rebuilding service is that it almost cost as much to buy a new gauge than to have it repaired. That was the case when I broke a mechanical temp sender tube anyway. Of course, your sender might be made of unobtanium so the point in this instance may be moot. It might be worth a call to them just to see.

I still think a call to Ken at Dave Bean would be worthwhile. (ok, now I'll shut up)