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FS/WTB: Europa Parts and Stuff / Re: Pels adapter and Toyota 4age for europa
« Last post by Grumblebuns on Today at 09:10:55 AM »I believe from memory, John Pels offered an adapter plate for the 336 and NG3 transmissions
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July 1, 2023 Forum membership reaches 1,465 !!
This Community became 11 years old in April 2023.
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2
Garage / Re: Output shaft leaks and a bad memory
« Last post by FourLoti on Today at 08:47:06 AM »Hi:
Reviving this thread in search of some updated help. I had mild leakage from both sides and ordered seals and rings from Ray. The rings came in the square variety. I noticed that they (maybe surprisingly) easily slipped over the sleeves on the workbench, but I assumed that once inserted into their grooves, the ID would shrink sufficiently for a tighter seal.
Next, when I reinserted the sleeves, I expected to have difficulty getting them through the rings, as explained in various threads, but there was hardly any resistance as far as I could tell. I first thought maybe what was happening was that they weren't fully seated and that more pressure was required, but I could not get them to go in farther. The sealing ring nuts went back in with the proper number of turns (with Hylomar) and the drive shaft yokes also went fully into position for pinning. So I'm assuming there's no way the sleeves could still be outside of the o-ring area.
Everything seemed OK after that, but now with just a few more miles on the car, both sides are leaking a TON of lube, and it's coming from the center of the shafts, not the seal. The only thing that makes sense is that the square rings were indeed to large or too thin, to adequately seal around the sleeves.
I suppose I'm going to need to go back in
but if anyone has any thoughts on what to check for this time I'd appreciate hearing. Also, if anyone else has had similar experience with the square rings - from R&D - or other sources, please let me know.
Finally, if the rings are the problem, I'd prefer to not have to pay shipping and wait for (hopefully more effective) rings. Has anyone found that suitable O-rings can be found at big box stores?
Thanks,
Ron
Reviving this thread in search of some updated help. I had mild leakage from both sides and ordered seals and rings from Ray. The rings came in the square variety. I noticed that they (maybe surprisingly) easily slipped over the sleeves on the workbench, but I assumed that once inserted into their grooves, the ID would shrink sufficiently for a tighter seal.
Next, when I reinserted the sleeves, I expected to have difficulty getting them through the rings, as explained in various threads, but there was hardly any resistance as far as I could tell. I first thought maybe what was happening was that they weren't fully seated and that more pressure was required, but I could not get them to go in farther. The sealing ring nuts went back in with the proper number of turns (with Hylomar) and the drive shaft yokes also went fully into position for pinning. So I'm assuming there's no way the sleeves could still be outside of the o-ring area.
Everything seemed OK after that, but now with just a few more miles on the car, both sides are leaking a TON of lube, and it's coming from the center of the shafts, not the seal. The only thing that makes sense is that the square rings were indeed to large or too thin, to adequately seal around the sleeves.
I suppose I'm going to need to go back in
but if anyone has any thoughts on what to check for this time I'd appreciate hearing. Also, if anyone else has had similar experience with the square rings - from R&D - or other sources, please let me know.Finally, if the rings are the problem, I'd prefer to not have to pay shipping and wait for (hopefully more effective) rings. Has anyone found that suitable O-rings can be found at big box stores?
Thanks,
Ron
3
Garage / Re: Restoration of 3940R
« Last post by jbcollier on Today at 08:12:52 AM »You can blast with very fine grit, or you can use pea gravel. Match the medium to the material.
4
Garage / Re: Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by jbcollier on Today at 08:08:23 AM »“Electric fuel pump with a regulator”
High fuel pressures cause the fuel to “squirt” and create turbulence in the float bowl. This messes with the jetting. Fit a proper low-pressure fuel pump that does not require a regulator.
While waiting for the pump, check your valve clearances.
If you search the forum there are posts with recommended 28/36 jet settings.
High fuel pressures cause the fuel to “squirt” and create turbulence in the float bowl. This messes with the jetting. Fit a proper low-pressure fuel pump that does not require a regulator.
While waiting for the pump, check your valve clearances.
If you search the forum there are posts with recommended 28/36 jet settings.
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FS/WTB: Europa Parts and Stuff / Re: Pels adapter and Toyota 4age for europa
« Last post by jbcollier on Today at 08:02:02 AM »No, it is for the Renault bell housing. You could find a Renault bell housing for your 365 but most people fit a Zetec engine in a TC rather than the Toyota one.
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Garage / Re: Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by BDA on Today at 07:54:19 AM »
johnn1493!!Wish I could help you with your carb.
I know we’d all love to see pictures of your baby!
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Garage / Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Last post by dakazman on Today at 05:19:15 AM »Ugly needs love too .
See pic .
Did I mention you can kick this hard with no damage ,shoot at windows without damage, Small caliber of course .
Still, I have my respect for the craftsmanship .
As for price point, as with everything nowadays is more expensive , hopefully prices will come down . The “,Beast” is the most expensive and crazy fast . I hit 70 in 3 sec on his , fast enough for me . Steering lock to lock in a one way street, easy , no k turn required.
D’man
See pic .
Did I mention you can kick this hard with no damage ,shoot at windows without damage, Small caliber of course .
Still, I have my respect for the craftsmanship .
As for price point, as with everything nowadays is more expensive , hopefully prices will come down . The “,Beast” is the most expensive and crazy fast . I hit 70 in 3 sec on his , fast enough for me . Steering lock to lock in a one way street, easy , no k turn required.
D’man
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Garage / Re: Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by 4129R on Today at 04:08:21 AM »Does the Weber have an air filter?
Dirty air filter will restrict oxygen and make the engine run richer.
If the mixture is rich, they start easier, but run too rich when hot.
Dirty air filter will restrict oxygen and make the engine run richer.
If the mixture is rich, they start easier, but run too rich when hot.
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Garage / Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by johnn1493 on Today at 04:01:32 AM »Hi everyone
First post from me. I’ve a Series 2 with a stock 1470cc engine which is taking its first few runs after years off road. Over the last two years I have swapped the chassis and renewed most of the suspension etc. The engine received new liners from the previous owner and so I haven’t really touched that side other than changing fluids. All new fuel tank and lines and an electric fuel pump with regulator.
Starts reasonably well but black sooty exhaust. Plugs fouling up very quickly.
The 28/36 Weber looks relatively new. I’ve stripped and cleaned reset float height. Checked ignition timing, replaced plugs and coil.
All jet sizes are as per ford cortina 1500 settings in book.
Put all back but still running rich with sooty black smoke exhaust. Turning the idle adjustment screw seems not to make any difference.
Haven’t checked valve clearances yet or given it a compression test.
Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Thanks
John
First post from me. I’ve a Series 2 with a stock 1470cc engine which is taking its first few runs after years off road. Over the last two years I have swapped the chassis and renewed most of the suspension etc. The engine received new liners from the previous owner and so I haven’t really touched that side other than changing fluids. All new fuel tank and lines and an electric fuel pump with regulator.
Starts reasonably well but black sooty exhaust. Plugs fouling up very quickly.
The 28/36 Weber looks relatively new. I’ve stripped and cleaned reset float height. Checked ignition timing, replaced plugs and coil.
All jet sizes are as per ford cortina 1500 settings in book.
Put all back but still running rich with sooty black smoke exhaust. Turning the idle adjustment screw seems not to make any difference.
Haven’t checked valve clearances yet or given it a compression test.
Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Thanks
John
10
Garage / Re: Parking permanently in an enclosed trailer
« Last post by 4129R on Today at 03:03:11 AM »"Q. What Causes Microblisters on GRP Bodywork and How it Can Be Prevented in Future. Is it a Peculiarity of Fibreglass in Damp Conditions?
A. We spoke to paint specialists at Western Spray of Crediton, Devon. They advised that microblistering is always a result of moisture that was already present in the primer coat or undercoat, regardless of the material the car’s made of or the paint system used. It can remain sequestered within the primer for years without harm – but as soon as the right conditions come together, it’s forced out and causes blisters in the top coat. If you pop a fresh blister, you’ll find it’s damp inside.
Sadly, rectification will involve stripping the top coat off. In theory, if the old primer is exposed in this way and then dried off, it can be painted over safely."
I think that popping about 300-400 paint spots and then repainting them and flatting them down and polishing them will make the car look a lot worse than it is.
A. We spoke to paint specialists at Western Spray of Crediton, Devon. They advised that microblistering is always a result of moisture that was already present in the primer coat or undercoat, regardless of the material the car’s made of or the paint system used. It can remain sequestered within the primer for years without harm – but as soon as the right conditions come together, it’s forced out and causes blisters in the top coat. If you pop a fresh blister, you’ll find it’s damp inside.
Sadly, rectification will involve stripping the top coat off. In theory, if the old primer is exposed in this way and then dried off, it can be painted over safely."
I think that popping about 300-400 paint spots and then repainting them and flatting them down and polishing them will make the car look a lot worse than it is.