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Lotus Europa Community
This Forum is Dedicated to the Lotus Europa and It's Variants
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July 1, 2023 Forum membership reaches 1,465 !!
This Community became 11 years old in April 2023.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by EuropaTC on Today at 01:02:49 AM »Thanks all, really appreciate the input. It struck me late last night that I'd not supported the weight of the door, and that might have hampered the pin from shifting. I'll give it a further dousing of release spray and then try again in a couple of days.
What usually happens is that the pin seizes in the door bush and so when you open the door the pin moves at the same time and the sliding surfaces are between the aluminium bushes in the body (lower sill, upper door aperture). This is what causes the wear and doors to drop.
My first shot would be to sit inside the car, hold the pin with mole grips and try to open the door. If it moves the mole grips as well, then use the leverage of the door whilst holding the grips to get the pin rotating while the door is stationary. That'll be the best way to get the release fluid where it's needed and any marks from the grips can be filed off before you start to drop the pin out.
Brian
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 12:48:23 AM »Posted in anticipation...
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by Cheguava on Today at 12:35:23 AM »Thanks all, really appreciate the input. It struck me late last night that I'd not supported the weight of the door, and that might have hampered the pin from shifting. I'll give it a further dousing of release spray and then try again in a couple of days.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by EuropaTC on Tuesday,May 14, 2024, 10:00:43 PM »The door pin and door bush/lock nut look in excellent condition, I wouldn't be surprised if someone has been there in the past and replaced them. When I did mine in the late 80s the car was probably 15-16yrs old and the lower part of the pin and door bushes were completely rusted. Even getting the nut to move was a big effort whereas yours looks as if you could be in with a good chance.
As for magentism the austenitic stainless steels, 18%Cr/8%Ni grades for example, are usually non-magnetic although they can have a very small pull on a magnet. Ferritic stainless steels with only 11/12%Cr were the original "stainless steels" and are strongly magnetic, it's the structure that does it. Ferritic steels are cutlery, usually exhaust tubing and anything where you want shiny/no rust but at a lower cost than the 18/8's. Hence it could be as magnetic as plain steel but still stainless.
I would certainly try to move that pin though, leave it soaking in plus-gas or equivalent for a couple of days and you could be in luck with it.
Brian
As for magentism the austenitic stainless steels, 18%Cr/8%Ni grades for example, are usually non-magnetic although they can have a very small pull on a magnet. Ferritic stainless steels with only 11/12%Cr were the original "stainless steels" and are strongly magnetic, it's the structure that does it. Ferritic steels are cutlery, usually exhaust tubing and anything where you want shiny/no rust but at a lower cost than the 18/8's. Hence it could be as magnetic as plain steel but still stainless.
I would certainly try to move that pin though, leave it soaking in plus-gas or equivalent for a couple of days and you could be in luck with it.
Brian
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Garage / Re: The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.
« Last post by Richard48Y on Tuesday,May 14, 2024, 05:53:04 PM »With a complete car here to trial fit wheels on it has been an educational day.
My wheel choice has been finalized.
And the winner is, Cosmic!
Turns out the CSS "Basketweave" are .625" too deep in offset and will not clear the trailing arm, so I will probably list them on feeBay.
The wheels that came with the car clear the suspension but really sit just bit too far out for my stock bodywork.
I can see where the DPO trimmed the fender lip, and some past rubbing near the top outer edge in front.
They may end up on the Spitfire or GT6.
Not at all unhappy to use the Cosmic's, period correct, they clear the inside and should also have a bit more clearance to the outside, WIN!
Almost as importantly, I have six of them.
So I will have a matching spare, and an extra wheel if I ever damage one.
Looking like 185/60-13 tires.
My wheel choice has been finalized.
And the winner is, Cosmic!
Turns out the CSS "Basketweave" are .625" too deep in offset and will not clear the trailing arm, so I will probably list them on feeBay.
The wheels that came with the car clear the suspension but really sit just bit too far out for my stock bodywork.
I can see where the DPO trimmed the fender lip, and some past rubbing near the top outer edge in front.
They may end up on the Spitfire or GT6.
Not at all unhappy to use the Cosmic's, period correct, they clear the inside and should also have a bit more clearance to the outside, WIN!
Almost as importantly, I have six of them.
So I will have a matching spare, and an extra wheel if I ever damage one.
Looking like 185/60-13 tires.
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Garage / Re: What are we missing, what should I make on a VMC?
« Last post by Richard48Y on Tuesday,May 14, 2024, 05:25:05 PM »I've collected all sort of welders, I would get prettier welds if I did it more often.
I have a nice tube bender and dies in several sizes.
I have access to sheet metal brakes but not a shear.
If the tired seats show up on Sunday my plan was to repair them, good practice parts.
This is all tooling I have now!
Do we have a drawing, pic, or sample to look at?
I have a nice tube bender and dies in several sizes.
I have access to sheet metal brakes but not a shear.
If the tired seats show up on Sunday my plan was to repair them, good practice parts.
This is all tooling I have now!
Do we have a drawing, pic, or sample to look at?
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by BDA on Tuesday,May 14, 2024, 05:22:13 PM »Good point, Fotog. Cheguava can check it with a magnet. Most but not all stainless steels are non magnetic. If it's really rust free, it probably won't need to be cut and will come out with a little coaxing.
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Off Topic Subjects / Re: Hemmings - Was the Lotus +2S a Better Elan?
« Last post by BDA on Tuesday,May 14, 2024, 05:19:21 PM »The Elan +2 is a nice car. I was always disappointed that they didn't use the front end of the Elan, but that's a personal taste issue. It is definitely a more "civilized" car than the Elan.
That one is only bid to $12,000. It might be your best opportunity to get a nice +2 On the other hand, you're up to your elbows in Europa S2 so maybe it's time to focus...
Kendo, you are right. That's the normal TC motor (possibly with a different tune from the regular Elans) which all have 2 valves/cylinder. It wasn't till the BDA that a Kent based motor had 16 valves.
That one is only bid to $12,000. It might be your best opportunity to get a nice +2 On the other hand, you're up to your elbows in Europa S2 so maybe it's time to focus...
Kendo, you are right. That's the normal TC motor (possibly with a different tune from the regular Elans) which all have 2 valves/cylinder. It wasn't till the BDA that a Kent based motor had 16 valves.