Lotus Europa Community

More progress, the electric window mechanism got cleaned up and moves up and down through its full range, not massively quickly so might still need to check the motor gears and bearing to see if they need fresh grease, but most definitely calling that a win

Ok, I know you're a fair way away from putting the motors back into the doors but when you do, consider fitting relays with a heavy gauge feed to operate the motors. I did that, two small relays (up/down) and it made a phenomenal difference to the speed they operate. Heck, they're like a normal car now !  The bonus is that you're also taking the motor current away from the switches so in theory they should last forever now.

Brian

Hi Joji,

It's ok, I've got John's address and am going to post out the stickers this weekend, probably Sunday as I'm busy with our Archery Club and Open Days until Saturday evening.

Brian

The shock and lower link share the same bolt on the TC. On the S2, the link and shock are on separate bolts.

Deffo the right decision to sleep and try again in the morning. Managed to ease out the vertical rubber for the quarterlight, and get the glass and then the other two rubbers out. Still couldn't budge the frame, but removal of the quarterlight rubbers revealed a rivet that someone had put through the door frame into the side of the metal channel. Drilled that out and the frame came out.

More progress, the electric window mechanism got cleaned up and moves up and down through its full range, not massively quickly so might still need to check the motor gears and bearing to see if they need fresh grease, but most definitely calling that a win

Finally, the inevitable daft question. There is a crack in the front lip of the "bonnet" surround, as shown in the photo, which needs repairing and probably a bit of lightening subtraction by building the fibreglass up a little behind it. Can I just check that there's nothing missing here - it's just the shape of the fibreglass supporting the panel? 

I called RD Enterprises, and the seal and "O" ring are available.  I also looked at my trans mount bolts and speedometer cable locking bolt and I find the locking bolt is in the trans in front of the trans support bracket rather than through the hole.  So, I figure I have to put a jack under the trans or block the trans and jack up the frame to expose the bolt head.  Anybody been down this road and can give some advice on which course of action is best?