1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[Pfreen]

Just an fyi on the demister grilles.  The originals are so weird in geometry because the plastic deforms to the crashpad.  I don't know how your aluminum will do.  Obviously, they won't deform but the crashpad will.
They look nice though.

[dakazman]

  Thanks Paul,
  My crash pad is fiberglass Mat, on top of foam core.The original vents are still original in place . Plan is to squeeze the aluminum grilles onto the pad  the entire pad will be attached on the sides just outside of the vents .  Plan b is to add a base dead center, maybe for timers or a mirror to hold the entire unit. The glass side will have window dash edge seal.
  I may have to paint the aluminum to stop glare .
  Dave

[dakazman]

  I’ll take a milestone day today.  After installing the battery and new leads I decided to turn the key and see what happens, 😁. Starter cranked the engine over easily.  It’s really nice to hear it coming alive. Posted it on instagram
.
  Then I added a grounding bar below dash to easily get to terminals. Tomorrow add some fuses into the new fuse holder.
 Secured the demister grilles so they float until tightened down. I’ll have to get some chrome acorn nuts .  I tried to tap a 10- 32 without going thru the 1/4 “ plate but it just wasn’t happening. I think it should be good enough and I’m moving on to securing the pad to the subframe.  Two wing nuts thru a bracket on both sides is the easiest.  Then I’ll add veil to the top area to mirror it out while cutting in the windscreen seal.
Dakazman


 

[BDA]

You have to love milestones!!! 

[dakazman]

  Details, details, details.
Next time I’ll stick to strictly stock, I added some rivnut anchors to the back of my crash pad that is non conventional, all fiberglass finish. So that just needs some mild tweaking and brackets added to the dash mount brackets. It will be secured by 2 1/4 inch bolts.
  Added the console and wired up the window switches but yet again wire in the electric heater that’s controlled by the original heater on/off lever but now electrical thru a relay . Which I added a complete relay panel next to the main fuse panel.
  The rest is led mood lighting and windscreen washer switch 😁
Dakazman

[TurboFource]

I like it! (What's the fun in "stock"?)

[dakazman]

   Turbo, your probably correct, but fun would be driving it sooner 😁
Dave

[TurboFource]

I agree with that!

[dakazman]

  I thought it would be easy....
    I clearly didn't allow for poor eyesight, seeing the difference with a gw and a gp shining a light doesn't help.  Any way, just venting a bit because some switches that were good with a continuity check, failed with voltage applied. I decided to go through each circuit separately. found some switches only work in a up position and not down. Windows do work now that I found that gremlin. Their were others, more brand new switches not working with power on. Its not all doom and gloom, 50 percent work, some work but don't shut off, some stopped working, some were wired wrong. ( yes I hate to admit that one,... Interruptions,... Maybe, but I will fess up to it.)
   Lets just say I'm immersing myself in all thing lucas.
 Dakazman

[SilverBeast]

Lets just say I'm immersing myself in all thing lucas.

As long as it's not Lucas smoke it'll be fine...

[dakazman]

Ran into this little gremlin,one of  the PO’s installed a rubber 5 pin straight thru connection to the ignition switch, basically ganging them together. It works when individual circuits were tested separately however they don’t play nice when connected within the connector. WTS, I guess the hi beams get hot thru the dip switch and turn indicators, headlights, horn all went through it. Only 3 showed continuity.  Yes it was strange, but I didn’t keep them in the same slot in connection so I cannot diagnose the reason for to meltdown.
 
   Lol , JB answered it perfectly on groups.
 
    Don’t use used rubbers! 🥱😂

   Installed the individual connections at the ignition switch with much more predictable outcomes.

   Dakazman

   
 

[dakazman]

  Horn button question,  what is the purpose of this copper clip? Is it to hold the push button section from falling out ?  How is it secured ? Inside or outside the cap? Can it be removed and put back together? 
It doesn’t seem to be sitting correctly and presses on just one side. Is that correct?
 Dakazman

[kram350kram]

Believe that is the ground and retainer, at least the ones I have dealt with in other single pin horn buttons. Check it continuity when button pressed. 

[dakazman]

   Kram,
  Good continuity.     Don't pull it out .    It is spring wound around inside the cap . If I could, I would thke it out and paint under the lotus emblem, which
  now I can see thru below the plastic cap. It likely touches the outer edge of the steering but the 3 prong holder is the ground along with the spring loaded contact in the ring below.
 Dakazman
   

[dakazman]

  Cleaning up some wire runs and simplifying the connections by labeling the connection blocks and adding them to the schematic drawing.  As you can see some connections are missing at the DB10 component. I’ll be coming out with the changes soon on the schematic. This is a S2 fed but can be done on other vehicles with the DB10 .
   This is my answer for that area.
Dakazman