Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: 460384 on Saturday,October 03, 2015, 12:30:34 PM
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I am planning to buy a lift for my shop, no height restriction (16 feet). But I would like to get a smallest footprint lift as possible. 4-post ones may be the best for Europa due to the structure of the car. Who makes a smallest one for 1500 lbs Europa cars? Any suggestions.
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Tom,
It doesn't make any business sense for any manufacturer to make a "small" lift. They want to make a product with the most application. I'm not saying that there aren't any small lifts out there, there may be, but why bother.
When I bought my 4 post lift, it only had one function, store my "excess" Lotuses. That eliminated all of the high cost, ALI certified lifts available. I purchased Chinese made Auto Lift, almost identical to the Direct Lift brand. With a 7k lift capacity, it is more than adequate to handle vintage Lotuses and am happy with my choice. One issue with probably all 4 post lifts is the track width of the runways. With my Elan currently stored on the lift, there is only about 3"- 4" of clearance between the inside edge of the tire and the edge of the runway. During an earthquake, the tire may slip off the lift.
http://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/4-Post-Lifts-s/290.htm
I bought my lift from the company above.
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Joji, you need a bigger garage! :)
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Thanks. I thing you need another lift on the left side. So you can have more room to work on your cars.
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Oh boy, now that's what I call a toybox..... :)
well done that man !
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If it is storage you are after, then probably a four post is what you should be looking for. We bought a Greg Smith two post as I think these are a bit more useful for general maintenance and repair tasks.
I was a little unsure about putting the Lotus on the lift at first, but it is rock solid and well supported. I am not using it for storage, but I have left it up there for a week or so. I do have poly a-arm bushings. It is so light that it takes the lift twice as long to drop to the floor compared at any of our other cars.
I waited years to buy a lift, and I don't know why. Between my son and I we are practically fighting for lift time:)
Everything is easier on a lift.
Dean
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As much as I prefer a 4 post lift in their versatility for both storage and maintenance, my next lift will have to be a 2 post. My current 4 post is located in the wing from the main section. To get cars in and out from the lift, I will need room to maneuver the cars around the small space. A 2 post lift near the garage opening will allow this.
Dean, it's nice to know that you have no issues lifting the Europa with your 2 post lift. Which brand did you get?
Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca
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Dean,
I want a lift so I can work on the Europa. How do you lift your Europa? directly on the fiberglass as showing in your picture (behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels)?
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What about something like this?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000kg-Manual-Fork-Lift-Warehouse-Stacker-1-6-m-lift-/111757280696?hash=item1a0540c5b8
Cheap. Lifts 100kg.
Looks to fit the bill to me.
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The forks look too short and close together to prevent damage to the body sills.
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I like working on a 2 post hoist much more than on a 4 poster but a four poster is nice for storage though it is nice to get a store vehicle with the wheels off the ground so it doesn't wreck the tires. I haven't had my Europa on my dad's hoist yet but the fact that the fiberglass is bolted to the frame and you would be lifting the frame and engine weight on those bolts I would be skeptical of the lifting the car the first time to make sure it doesn't stress the bolts on the floor excessively.
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The forks look too short and close together to prevent damage to the body sills.
Spreader plates?
A wooden pallet?
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... but the fact that the fiberglass is bolted to the frame and you would be lifting the frame and engine weight on those bolts I would be skeptical of the lifting the car the first time to make sure it doesn't stress the bolts on the floor excessively.
I know what you mean. I did see a picture (was it here?) where 2x4s were put between the pads of a lift so that the load was at least spread more. I've also seen pictures where there was no special accommodation and presumably, everything worked out fine. Presumably, the S1 and S2s would be safer on lifts like those since the body is bolted to the frame at more places, but it appears that even a TC is not damaged by using those lifts. I think lifting from behind the front wheels and in front of the rear wheels (the jacking points) would be best.
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I know what you mean. I did see a picture (was it here?) where 2x4s were put between the pads of a lift so that the load was at least spread more...
I was thinking this same thing writing my first post but since I had never done it I wasn't sure how well it would work. With my dad's hoist the height pads are big threaded tubes. If I was try some sort of cross bar I would unscrew those pads and make sure any cross bar was positively attached to the arm of the hoist through the original pad wholes as a 2X4 doesn't give you any forgiveness if it slide forward or backwards.
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I bought a 2 post from Strongman Tools here in the UK - it is very well made and they were very easy to deal with, right up to delivery straight into my barn.
Bear in mind though, if you go for a 2 post you need good strong concrete under the posts - I had to dig my floor out to reinforce it as it was only 4" thick - it is 12" now (4000psi) with rebar reinforcing 2m square around the post base (tied to the old base with epoxy resin / rebar).
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I've got one of these.
http://www.hamercarlift.com
Hamer car lift, but not sure you can get them in the states.
Very small profile, portable, versatile and not even requires bolting down. BUT is a manual action to lift so no good if fast regular use is required.
It's the only one that I could get to fit in my garage for stacking and working on. And I can set it up in 2 widths one for the lists and one for the Range Rover
Dave
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Dean, it's nice to know that you have no issues lifting the Europa with your 2 post lift. Which brand did you get?
Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca
Joji,
I searched all over for a small 2 post made in USA lift. When you peel back the BS marketing, the reality is there are none. So, once I resigned myself to a foreign lift, I found the folks at Greg Smith were the most reasonable and knowledgeable. The thing I liked about GS is they stock all the component parts.
I bought the Atlas BP8000. I admit that I repainted using a two part epoxy grey it because I was a bit anal that a big modern BLUE piece of shop equipment would dominate the shop. It doesn't seem to really mind a bit when I load the Range Rover on it. I do, as it is too frequent:)
When I bought mine it was $1,300. It weighs around 1,300 pounds. For what it is, a dollar a pound I rationalized was quite reasonable.
Here is a link:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-BP8000
Dean
PS: Yes I am lifting directly on the fiberglass with the rubber lift pads. I position them inboard a bit to catch the vertical load either behind the front wheel well or right in front of the rear. They are far enough inboard that there does not appear to be any strain on the lower rocker lip, floor nor fender sides. I considered making larger lift pads, but it doesn't seem to be necessary.
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Good purchase, Joji! How did you get a discount? When I clicked on the link, it says it was $1500. It's too bad someone doesn't sell one for LBCs that have a capacity of 4000 lbs instead of 8000.
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A friend has a mid-rise lift - MR6K-38 Mid-Rise Lift with specs as follows: 6000 lb max, 120 volts. each runway is 18" wide and 33.5" width between runways. Total width of the lift is 69.5". Runways are 57" long without ramps and about 76" with ramps attached. It's lifting height (38"), which allows plenty of clearance when removing the engine and sub-frame. The lift comes with four rubber blocks to place under the car to make it higher. The entire lift collapses to 4" so it's easy for a low profile car to roll on and off. The lock release could be operated from a portable air tank - keep the pressure at no more than 40-45 psi. It is around $1,800.
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I've been really happy with my Direct Lift 4 post. So nice to be able to stand under the car to work/inspect. Plus the bridge jack makes life much easier for pulling the wheels.
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What is the footprint of your 4-post Direct Lift from post to post (width and length)? Price with the jack?
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Thats a nice garage! love the chequered floor 8) 8)
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I've got one of these.
http://www.hamercarlift.com
Hamer car lift, but not sure you can get them in the states.
Very small profile, portable, versatile and not even requires bolting down. BUT is a manual action to lift so no good if fast regular use is required.
It's the only one that I could get to fit in my garage for stacking and working on. And I can set it up in 2 widths one for the lists and one for the Range Rover
Dave
I'm a bit late to this party but I've just been looking at that website you posted. I've not really got the space for a permanent 4 post lift in the outbuilding I use most, but something like that looks as if it could be dismantled & stacked when not needed ? So I guess the main question is, if it's entirely manual how tough is it to raise a car up, is it just like trolley jacks or do you end up gasping for breath ?
A secondary question, do you have the extended version that they show for storage, that could be quite handy for me and free up some space in the garage when not needed in my workshop.
Brian
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ON how tough it is to lift. not tough for the weight of a Europa, easier than a trolley jack.It just takes 10-15 min or so to lift or let down and walking round to each corner to raise or lower (about 10-15 cycles). I would think that for a range rover it is much tougher and more like a trolley jack as it can take 2.5 tonnes
Yes it can be dismantled and stacked when not in use, but it is very efficient on space. My garage is tight for 2 cars side by side and the impact in minimal. it can be made or adapted for an exact width very easily.
mine is the std length, but for storage a couple sheets of ply on the ramps would do I would think.
If you have space a second hand standard type 4 post is the best bet but I could not get anything near to fit. I looked at 4 post, 2 post and single post lifts but none would fit and cope with the vehicles I want it to.
The good thing to is that I can move it about easily, when down it takes 5 min to dismantle, there are only 8 bolts to take out.
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Thanks Dave, it's sounding very positive.
I do have a garage pit and although it's a great time saver for things like exhausts or tightening suspension under load, it's not always convenient for every job. I guess about half the time I end up jacking the car in the air and getting axle stands out, and that arrangement just struck me as "big axle stands" with a bit more versatility.
The fact you don't need to bolt it into concrete and can move it about is a big advantage. I could see me using it for jobs in the summer and then storing it away when not in use, even perhaps "stacking" the cars in the garage over winter when I tend not to use them.
Brian
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Well I have them stacked at the moment, the Westfield on the top and I can get the Europa out to work on.
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After reading all the comments on lifting and much deliberation on how best to use my scissor lift with my Europa I concluded that 2x4's layed along the full length of the rocker panels (sills) should spread the load enough. Worked a treat. No frightening cracking or creaking noises from the fiberglass.
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Saw this single post lift at the NEC classic car show last year. I was very impressed. The whole thing folds up and stands in a corner when not needed. There were several other interesting options
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Yes they do look good but only if you have the space. watch out for the clearance for driving over the feet and the length of the arms to pick up on the europa chassis.
I did not have enough width or height in my garage to be able to use one.