Author Topic: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?  (Read 1646 times)

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Offline TC2000

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Re: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?
« Reply #15 on: Thursday,April 29, 2021, 08:31:38 AM »
Hi All,
.......the front link is shortened and a new RH thread insert is welded (at 10 degree angle)......

Hi TC2000 - the above is a small part of your earlier thread - I measured this at 15 degrees, but I have to ask the question, from your first hand experience, "How critical is it - will anything between 10 and 15 be ok...??  :confused:

In reality, I did not measure that angle; I cut the end of the link and re-welded the new threaded boss at similar angle. I do not think it is critical

Offline TC2000

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Re: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?
« Reply #16 on: Thursday,April 29, 2021, 08:40:46 AM »
I hope your second photo is after having already selected a gear, otherwise (at least on my car) there wouldn't be enough movement left to select it. Some times a rose joint has domed washers around it, but in this situation I think there is only room for a selfmade 'domed nut' if necessary.


I do not remember if the picture was taken with a gear selected.
It is exactly what I did: If you have a close look at the nuts on each side of the rose end, you will notice that  I have turned them on the face against the rose joint. they are indeed selfmade domed nuts.

What an interesting design that generates endless technical comments .... ;D

Offline pboedker

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Re: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?
« Reply #17 on: Thursday,April 29, 2021, 01:09:50 PM »
Chris, I believe your plan will work. TC2000 already proved it. :)

Yes, it is the same car, and I’ve been happily using it through all the years and with no need for reassembling or readjusting it. It might help that I have removed the external Lotus detent so the linkage is now only stressed by the actual gear selection and not the previous slamming from side to side when selecting reverse and 5th.

When I switched from the 352 gearbox to a 365 box I had to lengthen the rear selector tube about half an inch. I then adjusted it all so that the rose joint again ended up perpendicular to the engine/transmission when selecting neutral.
Peter Boedker
3904R Special
Denmark

Offline Dilkris

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Re: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?
« Reply #18 on: Friday,April 30, 2021, 10:51:47 AM »
I understand completely.

Because I am having to rebuild the yokes of the UJ - including cutting off and replacing RH and LH threaded sections, (for which I can make as long as necessary) - is there anything to be gained by machining the RH threaded section accordingly so as the location of the rose joint can be locked by 2 external circlips...ie one either side???   :confused:

Offline TC2000

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Re: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?
« Reply #19 on: Monday,May 03, 2021, 06:38:59 AM »
I understand completely.

Because I am having to rebuild the yokes of the UJ - including cutting off and replacing RH and LH threaded sections, (for which I can make as long as necessary) - is there anything to be gained by machining the RH threaded section accordingly so as the location of the rose joint can be locked by 2 external circlips...ie one either side???   :confused:

In my opinion you can indeed use circlips but you will need to be right on target. I preferred to have a domed nut on either side to be able to adjust freely.

Offline Dilkris

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Re: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?
« Reply #20 on: Monday,May 03, 2021, 08:41:22 AM »
 :I-agree: Thinking about it and in hindsight - you are right.  :))

Offline Dilkris

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Re: Gear Linkage - What's the way forward with this?
« Reply #21 on: Saturday,May 15, 2021, 01:01:24 PM »
Thankyou you all for your valuable comments - to close the thread - I thought I'd throw out there what I did - it may be of use to members having not travelled this road yet. As you will recall I was faced with a heavily butchered intermediate gear linkage - ie: that linkage which sits to the side of the bell housing. Not only was the UJ worn but various roll pin insertions by PO's had left components seriously compromised and to make matters even worse, adjustment had finally been welded...  :headbanger:     
 
The story is pretty much explained by the photo's - purchase wise I had to buy some round bar, a 1/2" UNF turnbuckle and some 1/2" UNF left hand taps. (I had already purchased a replacement rose joint, the metalastic bush for the gearbox mount and an overhaul kit for the UJ).

I opted to move away from the norm in some areas, (if these prove not to work, then I'll simply revert back to accepted methods). The left and right hand 1/2" UNF threads either side of the UJ, are firmly located, (once adjustment is complete), by locknuts plus 3 grub screws to each. The rose joint is located by a threaded collar and locked by a single grub screw.

The left and right hand threaded studs were machined as a 0.002" interference fit into the salvaged UJ's, press fit, (they were tight..!!) and secondarily locked, (albeit I think unnecessarily), with roll pins. (Yes it would have been easier to weld these - but my welding skills require 10 minutes with a grinder for every 1 minute of welding.... :'()

The effective lengths of the front and rear control tubes were shortened in order to accommodate the extra length of threaded bar either side of the UJ.

A long way round? Maybe - but as one member of the forum said in another post "I just wanted to see if I could do it"  :)) :))     
   
« Last Edit: Saturday,May 15, 2021, 01:03:58 PM by Dilkris »