65/0038R Restoration process

[BDA]

Tony, I'm not arguing with anything that you say, but I would note that Jensen Motors replaced stub axles every three races because they apparently stretched. Knowing that they would need to be replaced every three races, other preparation might have been short circuited because the eventual problem would probably happen later. Also, not using loctite on the splines makes replacing the stub axles more difficult.

There are better options for stub axles that have been discussed elsewhere on this forum but they require some modifications. I guess the other option is to prepare the stock stub axles to provide the longest life possible.The quote I posted about using loctite 35 a few posts ago came from the TC workshop manual. Unless more efficient procedures or materials, I think the shop manual should be considered the best practice.

[BDA]

  and if you're like me, that will eat at you in the back of your mind. 

You would do that!!!

Sorry! If it keeps your stub axle and hub from coming apart, it will be worth it. But on the other hand, you might want to wait to see if there is a discussion later this evening or tomorrow that sheds more light on this. Tony found another proponent of the use of red loctite for the splines (it did come from Golden Gate Lotus Club so the author, Kiyoshi, may have gotten that tip from Dave Bean, too!).

Maybe it is ok!

[TonyWa28]

FWIW - I'm with the green team as it is a bearing and bushing retainer product as opposed to a threadlocker (red).  I sent an email to Henkel to see what they say. but I actually only asked about 635 vs the 660.  Its likely they won't respond, but it took a minute to send....

[TonyWa28]

Response from Henkel/Loctite in regards to what should be used on stub axle splines (nothing to dramatic):

after asking Henkel about 635 vs 660 for splines:

Tony, how much clearance is there?  I like 680 if it happens to be a little loose.   635 was the forerunner to 680.  The 680 TDS is attached.  Ordering item # 1835201 is a 50 ml bottle of 680.   The maximum fill for 680 is 0.015” on the diameter.  The maximum fill for 660 is 0.020” on the diameter.    680 is sold through industrial adhesive distributors like Fastenal and Grainger.

Gave him background on our application and asked about red threadlocker usage for the splines.  His response (no real comment on using red threadlocker):

Tony, 680 can be used in place of 635.   If you use “primer T”, this is called SF 7471 today.   However, 680 has primer built into the formulation already and thus, you really don’t need to use primer with 680 for its original purpose which is to aid the cure on coated metals.   However, if you want to speed the fixture time simply, you can still use the primer with 680.  Ordering item # 135337 is a 4.5 fl oz aerosol can of SF 7471.   I usually state 24 hours to achieve functional cure.


Regards,
Mike

Michael xxxx (redacted) | Technical Communications Coordinator | AG Technical Customer Service

Henkel| 1 Henkel Way,  Rocky Hill CT 06067  USA

[BDA]

Great info, Tony! Thanks!

[JasonH]

I am tempted to take that Henkel information and put it in the technical section with the title " what type of thread locker do I use to assemble the rear hub assembly"

[JasonH]

Two questions for you guys:
1) What have you done to restore your sunvisors?
2) Has anyone restored their dash board and pad using Richard's fibreglass dash pad replacement?

My sunv isors are quite stained and intact bags of dust.

My fitment of dash has shown the dash top sags a bit and is not level.  This is not a huge thing, but it is bugging me.  Did the original ones do this?  I am not sure if I have seen this on other restored cars.  I will try to heat it tomorrow and see if I can motivate it up, but I don't think that will last with the first hot day with the sun beating down on it.  Also I have been carefully trimming the leading edge so as to allow it to fit close the the windscreen without a big gap.  I have pulled and put back in the dash top at least 20 to 50 times already.   

My goal to make the dash  "easy" to remove.  Make an assembly from the unit that can be removed by unplugging a multi-pinned plug for the electrical and unbolting the 10 bolts that secure it.

[andy harwood]

1 the visors in my TCS were already done when I purchased it. Appears to be cardboard folded over, so to fit on the visor rod. Covered in vinyl, with edging sewn on. They just slip on the visor rod.
2 The Banks fiberglass dash was used on my car, and the front 'lip' looks like it is sagging. I attempted to modify to raise the 'lip', as it obscures the top of the gauges. The dash fiberglass is very rigid, and I didn't accomplish much. I did fit some rubber 'edge stripping' where the edge dash meets the body under windshield. I had to get a new dash cover stitched up as the old was torn in the process.

Like you, I wanted to make the dash 'quick-detach', but didn't, and just left some excess wire so I could pull it out farther. I've got a new non-Lotus harness that hopefully will get installed.... someday.

[gideon]

Paul Matty list a crash pad that is described as "Made from high quality ABS plastic from original moulding", which makes me think it is from a different source than the one that Banks sell.  One piece of possibly useful trivia I learned from google is that the Elan Plus 2 uses the same crash pad.  Anyway, here's the link:

https://paulmattysportscars.co.uk/product/europa-crashpad/

[EuropaTC]

Two questions for you guys:
1) What have you done to restore your sunvisors?

My sun visors are quite stained and intact bags of dust.

You're not alone with sun visors resembling a plastic bag of dust, I would guess that most are either in that condition or about to be.  I've just put new headlining in the car and used some of the same material to cover the sun visors. It's not a brilliant job because no matter how you look at it, you will have an external seam of thread at some point. With mine it's on the top where the bar goes so until you actually use the visor you don't see it from inside.

I did hear of one method of reclaiming the originals if the plastic covering is in good condition. That was to make a frame with two short planks spaced about 1/2" apart, clean out as much dust as you could from the visor then slide it into the gap. Use the hole where the support rod slides to inject some of that expanding foam you use around windows, etc. It fills the plastic envelope and the wooden former keeps the shape of the visor intact.

Apparently this does work but I didn't bother as the plastic covering was yellowed & stained badly.

Brian

[JasonH]

Andy  Thanks for the info.  Where did you source the rubber trim for the leading edge of the dash?  Yeah.  The dash is stiff and doesn't want to go where I want it to go! I an still going to mess with it some more.

Gideon:  That is some interesting news now I know why there is a discrepency with the demister recess cast into the dash top and the Europa grilles.  The dash was designed with the Elan in mind. Pictures below.

Brian:  Awsome suggestion.  My visors are pretty stained and quite yellowed  I am going to try the expanding foam in formers technique

[JasonH]

Pictures of the difference in the recess formed in the dash top compared to the Europa demister grille

[andy harwood]

I got my rubber u channel  from McmasterCarr.

[JasonH]

Oh good I use them frequently on this build.  Thanks

[JR73]

If you attempt the expanding foam in formers be sure to incline the visors (something like 20 degrees from horizontal) and inject the foam from the highest point so that the chemical runs to the base and expands up the incline - pushing the air ahead of it and back out of the hole you injected through. The former needs to be sufficiently strong enough to help the casing retain its original shape as you would be surprised just how much pressure is generated in the reaction of the foam! - One of the things my company does is moulded PU foam and the jigs used to retain the foam are far more substantial than anyone ever expects that they need to be! - also a common mistake is to inject far too much, which makes a horrible mess!