Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: TC2000 on Tuesday,July 26, 2022, 06:54:32 AM
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Hi All,
I need to renew parts of front suspension (Europa TCS).
The lower pin is stuck in the chassis and I did not succeed to extract it; the thread is damaged so that the nuts do not hold on thread.
I tried to fit different spacers and washers, then tighten the nut at different locations of the pin, but the thread is too weak.
I am soaking it with anti seize stuff, heating the chassis tube, tightening the other end with spacer (that thread is good), but no move...
Any one has an idea or experience to share?
Thanks
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Can you rotate the pin where it is? The more you can rotate it, the more it will free up.
When they rust, the rust expands trapping the pin in place, so if you can loosen the rust by rotating it, it should become loose enough to push out.
Plenty of WD40 helps, with careful heat.
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To start off with the positives - that chassis looks very clean for one with a seized suspension pin ;)
Personally I'd just get brutal with it. Support directly under the chassis upright with axle stands with some wood to protect the chassis and then wade in.
My favourite tool for such things is the old fashioned Stilson pipe wrench, they completely wreck the surface but usually get enough grip to rotate most things. (but then again, I do have one about 3' long, serious stuff)
And as Alex says, once you get it rotating then you can think about using spacers/nut to slowly drag it out of the chassis mounts. If the Stilsons slip then it would be welding something to the pin, the heat from welding will probably be enough to shake it loose but if not, then you'll have plenty of leverage to move it.
Brian
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In my experience with three S2 frames the upper chassis pins come out. The lower pins don't. I did try to remove one once and the only thing I had that would shift it was an impact driver, but progress was painfully slow. I gave up because that frame was toast anyway. If I had no choice then I'd use heat and the biggest impact driver I could find.
I think Lotus must have used something at the factory (loctite?) to stop the lower pins from moving. If the loctite theory is correct then heat should help a lot. If I'm heating a fastener to release it then I'll use candle wax as a wicking lubricant. You're going to have to repaint the area after applying enough heat to make a difference.
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You're right, for the S1 and S2 chassis. The TC/S has a removable lower pin.
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Thanks for the clarification.
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It makes no difference to anything but my memory was that the lower pins on my TCS were locked solid so I tried to replicate that with red Loctite which actually worked pretty well. It didn't occur to me to double nut it because I don't think I had ever seen that.
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Have you tried a thread chaser? It's different than a die, less aggressive and used to clean up threads. I had to use one on mine.
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TC2000 says the threads are partially striped.
You are going to have to use heat, serious heat. You'll need an oxy-acetylene torch so you can heat up the whole length of the tube. A very dull red should do it. A propane torch doesn't put out enough for this kind of work. Let it cool SLOWLY so it doesn't harden.
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TC2000 says the threads are partially striped.
You are going to have to use heat, serious heat. You'll need an oxy-acetylene torch so you can heat up the whole length of the tube. A very dull red should do it. A propane torch doesn't put out enough for this kind of work. Let it cool SLOWLY so it doesn't harden.
Thanks all for your help.
This all started because the right tyre is very very close to the body (even touching when turning), meaning the distance between front and rear wheel is shorter than on the other side.
I have 2 reasons to remove that pin:
1/ the thread is striped and I am not confident that I can tighten the wishbone properly,
2/ the trailing lower wishbone is trapped because the space between the body and the end of the pin is too small.
for 1, my solution is to thread the pin with a M12x1.25 dye. Pitch is very close to the 1/2 UNF (1.27). By doing that, I can use a M12x1.25 nut (standard wheel nut) to secure the wishbone. see pictures.
for 2, I am considering to remove about 4 to 5 mm from the pin; should be enough to free the wishbone. It seems the nyloc on this side is thinner than anywhere else (15mm instead of 18mm), maybe on purpose.
Doing that, I could leave the pin in place.
Now, the findings: the leading lower wishbone is bent and the weld around the tube where the damper is bolted is cracked all around, I will change all 4 to tubular ones. The previous guy who fiddled on this car (not a mechanic >:( )mixed the upper trailing arms and put them on the wrong sides (although they are clearly marked LH and RH); he had problems aligning everything so he trimmed the holes - they are elongated :'( .I will weld washers at the correct place.
All nyloc nuts are pretty loose, need to change all of them.
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Have you ran the die over the threads in the picture? They look flat and questionable to me... :confused:
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Have you ran the die over the threads in the picture? They look flat and questionable to me... :confused:
You are right; picture was taken when partly threaded. I have now threaded enough to be compliant with bushing plus washer. Outer diameter of thread becomes 12mm, previously 1.27mm.
BTW, do you all recommend polyurethane bushes or conventional rubber ones?
Are the polyurethane bushes in 2 parts inserted from each side or one piece to be pushed in?
Thanks,
Bertrand