Lotus Europa Community

  I’m learning how to cut time off working behind the facia, or dashboard. By leaving the column bolted to the facia and just removing the 4 screws on the facia and the two side bolts thru door jambs. Also the console and bottom ground bolts 2ea. The access to the gauges is very easy.
  All this for an oil leak at the pressure gauge and since my fuel gauge wasn’t working I found the problem after probing wiring.  My sender has Three connectors, two large spade connectors and a smaller spade .  Not remembering what I used to repair the unit when I received it new I just connected it to the larger spade. I swapped to the smaller spade on the sender and up came the needle on the gauge.
 Then I started the car and had RPM, oil and a working fuel gauge.
  Tomorrow I’m going to remove the LED instrument lights and go back to the original ones. A lot of work but well worth it.
DMAN

One would hope it's not leaking from the case joint!!! Of course, that's always possible. It's very common to leak from the control shaft where shift inputs enter the case.

If your tranny is leaking from the finned adjusting nut, there are instructions elsewhere that describe how to replace the seal or o-ring. If it is the o-ring, one method that I don't think anybody has mentioned is to smear Hylomar on the threads. When I rebuilt my NG3, I ordered some new o-rings and got the wrong size  . My o-rings were probably just find as I hadn't had any leaks there but I figured the Hylomar would make double dog sure it wouldn't leak from the threads. Before loosening the finned nut, mark its position relative to the case and count the number of turns to take it off so you can get it back to the same orientation. Do one side at a time. Actually, I think snugging the finned nut will be all you really need to know but it's best to mark and count the turns.

My twin cam special 5 speed has a drip from the trans.  It was rebuilt by a Lotus dealer and has since covered 1500 miles.  I have replaced the rear seal on the shifter rod twice and the second time I used a 1mm smaller bore seal and it made no difference.  I top up the fluis every month or two and I keep cardboard under the car to soak up the gear lube.

Is there a chance the trans is leaking from the joint in the case where the left and right halves meet? 

Sorry I did not see any of the questions on this thread, I rarely check this site. Gauges sold.

The horn is an electrical solenoid attached to a diaphragm and points.  When you complete the circuit with the horn button, power flows through the solenoid’s windings.  This moves the diaphragm and opens the points.  The open points collapse the windings, the diaphragm moves back and the points close.  This repeats rapidly creating the horn’s “honk”.

The adjustment screw controls the amount of spring pressure holding the points closed.  Less tension gives a higher tone (faster on/off cycles) and more a lower tone.  It only works within a narrow range.  In the old days you set it up by adjusting the amp draw but those days are long gone.

You can take the horn apart and clean the points.  Just mark everything so you get it all back together correctly.  Then adjust for the tone you want.