Author Topic: New trunnion failure!!  (Read 1228 times)

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Offline Runningwild

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New trunnion failure!!
« on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 12:19:37 PM »
As I was installing the new coilovers I notice one of the new trunnions had gone bad. Car has ent even been on the ground yet. Any ideas what happened?   Thanks tom

Offline Runningwild

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #1 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 12:20:57 PM »
The rubber cap is all split and I can feel grinding when I turn the hubs.

Offline BDA

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #2 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 12:22:12 PM »
It looks like you turned the trunnion one turn too many. You did put it on the correct side of the car, didn't you?

Offline Runningwild

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #3 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 12:57:23 PM »
Didn't check if they were the correct side. How do you tell. Probably turned them 1 turn to many. Had the hubs done at a high end restoration jag shop. 

Offline RoddyMac

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #4 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 01:07:58 PM »
I can't recall if you can fit the steering arm and caliper bracket on the "wrong sides", but in the workshop manual it states that the RH vertical link has RH threads, and the LH side has left hand threads. 

In regards to the dust seal splitting like that, I agree that they were threaded on one turn too many.  As for the grinding, have you oiled the trunnions yet?

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #5 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 01:26:27 PM »
That looks to be a "Stanpart" trunnion, so unless it's a very, very sneaky copy it should be good quality.  That's what I look for when buying spares anyway.

It's difficult to go on a photo but my first thoughts were that it all looks too "clean and dry", mine typically look a mess with oil/grease coming out of the top once they are in use. Have they been oiled or greased  yet ? I don't mean a skim to assemble, I mean put the grease gun on and squirt until you see some come out !

The rubber looks like it's aged and hardened which has caused the splitting you see. Normally rubber shouldn't split with jagged cracking like that and the multiple cracks tend to make me think it's a material property problem rather than just being too tight.

I've no idea what the correct number of turns should be when putting them together. All I do is tighten them up as far as they'll go without pressure, then back it off until it will go full lock either way by hand pressure on the trunnion without binding. Hard to describe but if you think of the operating sweep they need in practice then it will just suddenly come to you when you're straining the joint.

Personally I'd just replace the rubber seal, check range of movement and try again. I can't remember seeing any markings on individual trunnions but it's a while since I last did that job. For some reason I seem to think they have right & left hand threads on the links, and if that's the case then if you can't screw it on, it goes on the other side !

The workshop manual covers the front suspension quite well, it's in the base S2 manual.  Worth a scan through if this suspension design is new to you.

Brian

Offline jbcollier

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #6 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 01:38:17 PM »
Cheap rubber boot.  As for the grinding when turning the hub, you going to have to look and see what's up.

Offline BDA

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #7 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 01:49:22 PM »
Thanks for pointing out which trunnion is which, Roddy! I've actually been wondering if I took proper note of that when I assembled my suspension all those years ago. Thus the reminder. Now, i know how to check.

There is a debate about how to lube trunnions. The manual calls for 90 wt gear oil, I believe. That's not only messy, but finding a gun to squirt the oil into the trunnion. I asked a friend who worked for Shell for twenty five years what I should use considering the manual recommended 90 wt gear oil. Here is his reply:

Quote
Use a lithium 2 hydroxystearate grease with moly in it.  Virtually all modern greases with moly are lithium 2 hydroxystearate, so if you get a good moly it will work just fine. Moly is important for your application because it is the ideal lube for sliding friction.  Grade 2 grease outperforms 90W gear oil in every respect since it has low shear, high film strength, and won't seep away over time (plus it works in grease guns).

I'll just throw that out for your information.

Here's some advice I found on a Spitfire forum that might be useful:

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Tighten the trunnion by hand, then back it off so that you can still get 90 degrees or so of movement out of it when in the installed position. Logically, should be less than one turn.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #8 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 03:18:47 PM »
Gear oil is easy to apply.  Don't use a grease fitting, use a plastic plug.  Then it is a simple matter of removing the plug and using an oil can with a pump to fill the trunnion.  Unlike grease, which just follows the path of least resistance in and out, the oil flows into all the nooks and crannies.

Offline Runningwild

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #9 on: Thursday,August 25, 2016, 03:43:15 PM »
Thanks for all the info. The hubs were rebuilt at a high end British (jag) shop and they used grease. I checked the grinding and it appears to be coming from the rack. Just got that back on and it gets better the more I turn it. So I guess it's just the rubber cap. The trunnions came from a lotus shop so they were good.  I ordered a few new caps and I'll make sure I don't turn an extra turn. 
Thanks again. Tom

Offline Runningwild

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Re: New trunnion failure!!
« Reply #10 on: Wednesday,August 31, 2016, 01:32:14 PM »
Took everything apart and yes I turned the trunnion to tight. Replaced the rubber cap and set up right. Thanks for the help.  Tom