Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Members Cars => Topic started by: Chuck Nukem on Friday,April 19, 2013, 04:17:44 PM
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Alright guys here it goes...My first Lotus...
My name is Charles...and I have a problem
I have never driven one of these.
In fact I had never even seen one of these in person until I drove 800 miles to pick this one up in Mississippi! My folks don't know I have it! I am keeping it at a friends house until I finish restoring my 1966 chevy pickup...
I have wanted a car like this for longer than I'd care to admit...and I finally got the guts to pull the trigger.
As for its condition...It has weathered its fair share of hurricanes and suffered even more neglect, but all in all it is a complete 1972 Europa Special, Big valve engine, and 5 speed tranny (minus the coveted JPS badge!)
I am going to swap a zetec in to this beast and my ambition is to have it running by the end of the year. (edit for 2016...HA HA HA HA. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nAZfGXkOb4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nAZfGXkOb4)) (edit for 2020...Ha hA ha AAhHha Haha H! A!)
(edit for 2019...My odyssey...I have been lost in a sea of projects for 6 years now....I just want to return home)
I'm glad to be here!
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36,000 original miles!
First update.
I know I posted this in the other thread, but for the sake of continuity I will re-post it here!
I snagged a 56k mile non vct 2.0L zetec out of a ford contour for $300 bucks last weekend. The engine came with the wiring harness, cats, intake, etc...
Today I grabbed a M.T. ECU and ignition coil off ebay.
I am looking to grab the correct flywheel this weekend. I also have a lead on a Triumph Spitfire that someone is parting out locally. I may try to grab his front end to replace mine...Mine is more of an amorphous rust crystal than a font end.
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A word of warning on the Spitfire parts... not everything is usable.
Most of the wearing components - bearings, rod ends, etc will be usable as will the vertical uprights, hubs, brake calipers, rotors and steering arms. But the service components are easily available and cheap, so s/h isn't usually worthwhile. I'm not sure about the steering rack, the toe links (?) at the ends of the rack (inside the bellows) might be different lengths ?
The wishbone arms are different and I think the lower ones are unique to the Europa. And they were the bits that rusted first on mine !
Brian
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You're a brave man, Chuck. Your support group is standing by ;)
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I will grab a keg for the support team :beerchug:
No real updates this week...Been studying for finals. My M.T. ECU came in this week. I would really like to figure out a way to get this motor to run with some R1 throttle bodies (and velocity stacks O:-)) If not I will fab up a plenum that utilizes the stock T.B. and MAF. The Europa might be changing locations in a month or so... Can't wait to get started on this thing!!!
If anyone out there has any experience running Motorcycle carbs/TBs, or any non stock intake on the stock ECU don't hesitate to share your wisdom!
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Well guys not much progress in the way of the Europa so far. I did manage to get a rear deck lid off ebaby. I have made a lot of progress with my '66 chevy pickup. Almost all the welding needed has been tended to. The frame has been sandblasted, primed, and painted. The springs, spindles, steering setup, and diff are on it...so now it is a matter of time until the body is reassembled. Then its off to the body shop for my first crack at painting.
I have tentative plans to sort out the Europa frame next month, provided that the truck is done.
I will have to take a pic of the truck's pedals next to the Europa's. They are literally 10x the size of little lolo's.
How is my support team holding up?
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I'm here Chuck Nukem..........the best action hero name ever.
mike
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Some news from my end :)). As of today I have started the disassembly to separate the body from the frame!! Everything short of the steering column, radiator, and master cylinder has been removed in preparation for the lift. Hopefully I will have this finished next Sunday...and then we can all see what remains of that frame after katrina, ike, and the others had their way with it. I am still optimistic about its condition. :welder:
I also repaired the hole in the hood, and have started to mend the driver's side fender...I was told that a tree had fallen on the car at some point...Pics to follow within the next week or so....
I am very excited to finally be at this stage!!
I am going to order a ST 170 intake manifold and a set of gsxr TB's to start tinkering with in the coming weeks...
Only two more months of school remain for me!!!!!!!! I can taste the freedom 8)
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...Pics to follow within the next week or so....
Well??????
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What is that engine hanging from the crane? With and without transmission?
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What is that engine hanging from the crane? With and without transmission?
That is a Zetec engine
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What is that engine hanging from the crane? With and without transmission?
That is a Zetec engine
That's what I thought. But the car is supposed to have a Big Valve Twink according to the owner. Is he swapping Zetec for Zetec? It certainly looks like it.
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I do have the original twin cam engine...but I do not have main caps, con rods, or pistons for it. Those were regrettably absent from the pile of parts when I purchased the car. It needs quite a bit of work and will be done at some point in the future.
That shot of the zetec with the tranny was just for fun when I picked up the new engine. For the money, I could not beat the zetec swap.
As for the frame separation situation, my friends bailed out last weekend!!! I will try again this sunday...
How is everyone out there doing??
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Roger you are a local!! (Edit...I thought your Location said "Richardson"...Texas is a big place) How funny! We will have to get together sometime so I can see what a working Europa looks like! ;)
On the plus side, I do have to go to Houston at some point to tend to some bureaucratic rituals which can not be performed with out me present. Maybe then I can see a working one in the flesh...(If yours is working that is! :) )
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Chuck, it's working OK, and you'd be welcome.
I thought the pic was the engine coming out of the car, hence my query!
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Ok here are some shots of the fiberglass work I did recently
The obligatory before shot. I also mended that nice hole in the hood.
Going to try for the body/frame separation tomorrow! All that remains is to remove the steering column, gas tanks, and wiring.
Pics to follow!
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Success!
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Ahh, I see you have the Official Lotus Overhaul Kit to hand, the "LoBricks" and "LoStool", essential items you will need when rebuilding your Lotus sir..... :)
Well done, that's a milestone. :beerchug:
Brian
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Looking good Chuck. I'm looking forward to following along on your journey.
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Here it is boys!
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When they said it handled like it was on rails....they weren't kidding! My upper back is glazed with pain today!
Here's the damage report thus far. My in no way cosmetic fender repair held together for the most part during the lift. I will be going back over it eventually. The frame seems okay from where I am looking. The little flaps by the T post are toast. They have the structural rigidity of a saltine cracker. The bottom panel of the T section will need to be replaced. We will all find out together after I get around to sandblasting this thing. The welder will be near by... :welder:
The master cylinder reservoir died on me when my finger glanced into it. The molecular bonds in the plastic gave out and my finger released the brake fluid from its 30+ year confinement. Better to free it now I suppose.
Very thrilled to be at this part! Watch this spot to see a blood-letting, tetanus infested strip tease that you wont soon forget...no matter how hard you try!
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Watch this spot to see a blood-letting, tetanus infested strip tease that you wont soon forget...no matter how hard you try!
I can't wait. This is much better than reality TV shows.
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Out of curiosity, what do you fellow Europa owners do for a living? I am sure some of you have some very interesting non Lotus hobbies! How do you all sustain the habit?
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Out of curiosity, what do you fellow Europa owners do for a living?
as little as possible...... ;)
I'm retired now but was a Materials Engineer (a metallurgist really) with ICI/Zeneca. I retired so I could play with my toys..... not regretted it for a minute !
Brian
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I'm a geologist. And you Mr. Nukem?
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I am currently a full time student. I finished my math undergrad last semester. Currently I finishing a Physics degree, and will be done in 30 days!! I work as a physics/math tutor/TA at the university, and do handyman/auto work when I have time to.
As for the future, I have no concrete plans besides finishing the car! ...I suppose it will be time to try and find a way to make a living :BEER3: ;)
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I provide technical support to the Canadian Navy, working for a UK based company that is an OEM for some equipment fitted to navy submarines.
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Natural Gas Pipeline weldor........retired. :welder:
Listening to burning rod or the crackle of wire surrounded by argon........ohhh' mommy.
mike
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Free at last!
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The rusty frame looks kind of eerie bathing in the moonlight
She is getting stripped! :))
I am hoping to have everything sandblasted before December. Those brake drums are on nice and tight! What size is that gargantuan nut that retains the half shaft yoke?
Biggest pain so far is a tie between the rusted bolts that hold the steering rack on, and an A-arm bushing that had fused itself to the frame...manliness and grunting were required to remove it. (In all honesty it quickly devolved to a scenario similar to a chimpanzee beating a hard fruit against a tree)
Most disconcerting were the bolts that fasten the rear hub to the trailing arm being forcibly threaded in at random angles.... some re tapping will be in order....I wish I had taken a pic of that....you all would not believe it.
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(In all honesty it quickly devolved to a scenario similar to a chimpanzee beating a hard fruit against a tree)
:FUNNY: and something all recognise only too well. In fact I often think it's more like :headbanger:
Brian
Edit to add; After stripping a thread in my carrier this year I decided to fit a helicoil insert rather than re-tap to the next size up. I've never used them before but came away very impressed with the job, so much so that the next time the carrier is on the bench I'm going to fit helicoils to all of the bolt holes. It might be worth putting on your option list ?
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Definitely! I forgot about those little things. Those bolts were literally at 45 degree angles!
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Well friends, everything on the frame is removed now. The body shell is also stripped of its rusty components. There were a few surprises, namely the drivers side door hinge. I am going to make some patterns this week and cut some new sheet metal for the frame...stay tuned.
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I reckon you're gonna need a new hinge pin mate.... now that's what I call corrosion !
Mine was rusted solid but nothing like that. If the top is the same condition it's going to be a long boring time with a hacksaw blade ahead. You might even need to renew the bush in the sill as well if it's been open/closed a lot with the pin seized up. But what's going on in that center tunnel ? something making a nest ?
Brian
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I bought RD's stainless pin set for the doors. Ain't cheap but this way you only do it once.
Wait........I bought them last year and still haven't done them.
mike
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I bought RD's stainless pin set for the doors. Ain't cheap but this way you only do it once.
Wait........I bought them last year and still haven't done them.
mike
If you are looking for another "ain't cheap" option, I bought Bank's brass hinge set. This consists of independent upper and lower pivots that lock in place allowing the door to be removed without upsetting the alignment. Handy if you were like me and removed and replaced the door a hundred time. Since there is no long pin, you can glass up the lower sill hole. You can see a photo by scrolling down a bit in this page.
http://www.vintagemotoring.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1534&start=25
Dean (S2/Zetec)
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I reckon you're gonna need a new hinge pin mate.... now that's what I call corrosion !
Mine was rusted solid but nothing like that. If the top is the same condition it's going to be a long boring time with a hacksaw blade ahead. You might even need to renew the bush in the sill as well if it's been open/closed a lot with the pin seized up. But what's going on in that center tunnel ? something making a nest ?
Brian
I hear the doors are the pinnacle of lotus restoration pleasure. I am looking forward to them...Right now the task at hand is to remove the gargantuan nut which holds the half shaft on the hub! wish me luck!!
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Right now the task at hand is to remove the gargantuan nut which holds the half shaft on the hub! wish me luck!!
Just in case it was before you signed up, this has been discussed before on the forum, this is one thread and no doubt there have been others;
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=249.0 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=249.0)
After Mike's post showing a design for a restraining bar locking on the wheel nuts I made one myself for the next time I did the job. It worked a treat and is well worth a place in the toolbox. It's also well worth giving it some heat from a torch just in case someone has used Loctite in the past to stop it loosening.
Brian
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Thanks for that Brian. One nut came off with relative ease. The other is exactly as is described by that thread...We had MAP gas and penetrating fluid on it and I still managed to shear a 1/2'' breaker bar! I had a 6' cheater pipe on hand and it was completely ineffective. Looks like I will be investing in a 3/4'' solution...
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I hear the doors are the pinnacle of lotus restoration pleasure. I am looking forward to them...
Pinnacle implies that once you reach the door hinge summit it's all downhill. I adjusted my doors such that they were well aligned and shut smoothly. Anytime anyone got in or out of the car I instructed them to NOT LEAN ON THE DOOR but they are just too handy for hauling fat arses up out of the car :headbanger:
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Pinnacle implies that once you reach the door hinge summit it's all downhill. I adjusted my doors such that they were well aligned and shut smoothly. Anytime anyone got in or out of the car I instructed them to NOT LEAN ON THE DOOR but they are just too handy for hauling fat arses up out of the car :headbanger:
I will be adding the Lo-spike strip to the top edge of the door to discourage this behavior
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I hear the doors are the pinnacle of lotus restoration pleasure. I am looking forward to them...
Pinnacle implies that once you reach the door hinge summit it's all downhill. I adjusted my doors such that they were well aligned and shut smoothly. Anytime anyone got in or out of the car I instructed them to NOT LEAN ON THE DOOR but they are just too handy for hauling fat arses up out of the car :headbanger:
Yup, a constant problem. I instruct riders that they are not to touch the door at all when getting in or out.
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Pinnacle implies that once you reach the door hinge summit it's all downhill. I adjusted my doors such that they were well aligned and shut smoothly. Anytime anyone got in or out of the car I instructed them to NOT LEAN ON THE DOOR but they are just too handy for hauling fat arses up out of the car :headbanger:
I will be adding the Lo-spike strip to the top edge of the door to discourage this behavior
Very nice!
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Guys...Been through the door pin removal mantra a few times. From the looks of things, go right for the throat. Break out grinder or sawzall and cut them off. I made a small shield{around the pin} of light aluminum as not to slip and damage the body. A palm grinder or dremel works best. I have used the pins from R&D and would suggest the fibre washers supplied are not that good. They seem to slip and the adhesive backing is weak. Go get some heavy grit sand paper and cut your own...
Good luck.ld
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If you are squeamish turn away now...these pictures are not for the faint of heart.
Those are the gory details that I am going to be sorting out eventually. On a side note, how much does lotus dust sell for by the gram? I am thinking about parting out the frame :FUNNY: In spite of all this, there is some good news!
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I got a new frame! Well a used frame...actually I purchased part of a used frame...First and foremost a huge thank you to Dave at sports car world in Dallas. They hooked me up with 90% of a TC frame and a nice used windshield!
I have taken the measurements I need from the T section off of the creature from the black lagoon. The rear section will be a little easier to make than the front I suspect. I have access to the tools that I need, so get ready to follow me on this little fabrication journey! anybody have any previous experience with frame work? I would love to hear from you!
As for the old frame, after I get this new one finished up, I am going to sandblast it and see what remains. If it can be saved I am going to save it. I would be tickled to death to have the original frame for the original twin cam :)
On a hugely significant side note I finally got to experience a Europa in the flesh! Dave took me for a drive in his '73 JPS special. Words can not describe how thrilled I was. Its a good thing you all know the feeling, because I know that I wont do it justice in writing! As I slid in the passenger seat Dave fired up the very willing motor. I was amazed at the sound!! Surely this can not be a 1.6L!?! We waited a minute for it to warm up as it was an uncharacteristically cold day in Texas. A light scent of twin cam exhaust made its way in to the cabin. He stamped on the pedal...my god what a visceral experience!! A pronounced click from the gear change and my upper back and head pop against the seat. It went on and on! And then there was the turn in...I swear it was telepathic. I haven't even driven the damn thing yet! The ash trey flew out and landed in my lap, an expensive souvenir. We gunned it around the neighborhood a few times...what a riot. I cant wait to get mine running! After hearing that twin cam in person, I would be lying if I told you that I didn't have immediate regrets about going the Zetec route...
Thanks again Dave!
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I have quite a bit of experience with frame work. The link below is a video of me repairing the backbone and I have also remade an entire front T section, but I haven't posted any pictures of video about that, but I'll add one to this post. First is the measuring and cutting 16 gauge sheetmetal, second one is all of the parts that will become the T-section and the last picture is the completed T-section completely welded up. Made with nothing more than a vice, a hammer, some holesaws and a TIG-machine.
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqBmgBixX2s
Pictures and text:
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=581
Don't forget that the later frames had a different construction of the backbone (one part in stead of the two [ ] shapes.)
Kind regards,
Serge
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Clamp the crap out of everything that moves
Measure five times....cut once.
Stitch welding (Tack at point A, Tack at point Z, come back to Point B etc
You are lucky to be close to Sports Car World.
mike
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I'm pretty sure the fuel tanks can be saved.....with new ones. :beerchug:
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The frame looks so good in your living room, are you sure you want to use it on the car? :huh:
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Serge your frame looks wonderful! I have been keeping up with your videos and was wondering when you were going to address the front T section. Inspiring work!
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I'll try to get around editing the next couple of videos, the T-section video is the second in line that I need to do. But they'll both be shorter than the last one, so it shouldn't take that long.
My original T-section was too far gone, when I started to try and restore it, it became clear early on that it would be much easier to just build a brand new one. I do not recommend to use the drawings and dimensions on Jerry's website, because when I compared them to my original T-section, everything was way off.
Kind regards,
Serge
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Yeah, I took measurements off of my old frame. I was surprised by how different the construction of the S1/S2 and TC frames were. Should not be too bad! I will be using a mig welder, but I think it will be OK for this job.
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Hey guys quick question. I am not near my old frame at the moment and I need the diameter of the 5 speed tranny tube. If anyone can run out and measure it for me I would greatly appreciate it! I am going to buy the sheet metal tomorrow and don't have time to run out to see the car.
Much appreciated!
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I got the cooperative axle free from its hub. Still hitting the other one with a daily dose of PB blast and occasional torching. I even tried bathing it in a kerosene/synthetic oil solution for a few days. Hopefully this will pay off when I try to break it loose. I think my axle looks pretty good all things considering! I have definitely seen worse ones out there.
The Head is a different story. I have been hitting it with a ritualistic PB blast in preparation for some gut wrenching...wrenching. Someone has an EZout nestled in one of the spark plug threads. The PO didn't know anything else about it, just that it was there and he didn't want to take a chance with it. It will probably be a few months before I attempt anything on the head, but I want to let it soak.
Hopefully some sandblasting will be happening in the near future...I have a lot of parts to clean....
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Brother Nukem
Be very careful when sandblasting. I prefer bead or shell on steel (less damage). Especially on "any" aluminum engine or suspension parts. Some mediums can and will embed in the soft alloy. And then may break loose when the engine is put back together for a rather unpleasant surprise.
I hot tank those pieces.
mike
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Sorry, I should have specified a bit more. I am only going to sandblast the steel pieces. I have a nice ultra fine grit that works very well. As for the suspension, head etc, I have access to an ultrasonic parts cleaner that I am going to use.
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Both axles are free and I have the hubs stripped down. :BEER3:
Hopefully some new purchases will be on the horizon :))
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Let's get this party started!! This is my first attempt at real fabrication, and I am pretty pleased with how it's going so far. I am making an extra set of trailing arms for this new frame I am going to have. :welder:
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Here are a few more!
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Very impressive..... and that's some workshop kit you have there ! A real folding machine.... heck when I repaired my frame years ago I had to bend the steel into shape with G clamps, a hammer and a 4"x4" fence post (which explains the hammer rash on a couple of areas ;) )
Great work, I'll look forward to the next installment.
Brian
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Thanks for the kind words. Unfortunately that is not my shop! It belongs to a a friend of a friend. The man who owns it makes deluxe deer blinds of all things and uses the brake to bend the aluminum siding for them.
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Very nice work Chuck!
I can see having the access to metalworking equipment makes everything so much easier. I had to have all the large pieces bent by a friend of a friend and did all of the small pieces for the T-section myself on a vice and welded everythin together afterwards. It took a really long time. I'm glad you don't have to go through the same.
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Thanks man! The right tools definitely help... That being said I am going to try and fashion a die out of wood to flare that center hole. My connections ran short there. We will see how it turns out...
Serge yours looks incredible so the time was well spent! I am certainly trying to be patient with this, contrary to my usual impetuous self. I have to drive about 60 miles to check the measurements on the old frame...guess where I am going again tomorrow? ::)
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Thank you, I try to make the chassis as best as I can with my limited resources.
I too didn't have the means to flare the hole, so I cut out the flared hole from the old T-section and welded it in the new one, you can't tell the difference once it has been ground down smooth.
Serge
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This looks very good. Keep on doing it that well and you will get lots of pleasure with the result.
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Serge,
The original front "T" section is a double box section stacked one on top of the other. It makes it quite a bit stiffer than a single box section.
John
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Serge,
The original front "T" section is a double box section stacked one on top of the other. It makes it quite a bit stiffer than a single box section.
John
Hi John,
I agree that the stacked box sections are stiffer than one big one. Mine was made like my original one was (apart from some welded joints overlapping in stead of being from one large sheet). There are folds in the sheetmetal everywhere where there should be folds. I hadn't noticed that Chuck didn't have these on his T-section, but you are correct. I wouldn't make a new one without the separate box sections.
Kind regards,
Serge
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I noticed that S2 and previous frames shared this type of construction with two sections stacked like that. While twin cam frame construction varies in that it is a single folded box, it has two folded internal supports that are spot welded inside the box. I did not want to deviate from the original construction.
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Chuck you are correct, I did not know that there was a difference in the T-section as well as the backbone on the TC chassis. You are right for keeping the original type of construction. The S1 T-section also had the strengthening plates on the inside.
Serge
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Here are some detail shots for those interested.
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I feel like it would be more prudent to save posts for a big progress update...But I am a shameless attention seeker, so with out further delay check out the flares!
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A coat of paint and you will never know that those flares weren't done by Lotus, that looks as good as anything I've seen from a DIY workshop. And there's nothing wrong with being a shameless attention seeker, if it weren't for such folks there would never be any forums or topics such as these.....
I'm curious - why all the little holes in there ? They look to have been drilled deliberately along marked lines, is it for a plug-welded internal stiffener or something ?
Brian
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Yes precisely. If you look at my previous post you can see the internal support for the T section nestled inside. Your car should have them too!
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yee haw.........dang nice work. Anyone that has a press.......impress's me
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yee haw.........dang nice work. Anyone that has a press.......impress's me
Alas my friend I must confess,
I am a charlatan for it is not my press.
To be accompanied by a gorgeous figure
in late evenings it brings me pleasure
To cast envy with such a splendor,
her long legs tread where other wonder
But as we part my heart gets weary
As soon as I have finished she states it clearly
"Eighty dollars" Her cold glare hinted
My wallet's grief surmounts feelings of betrayal
I quietly discover that she was rented,
not by the hour, but by the minute!
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Nobody enjoyed my ode to prostitutes? tough crowd..
Here are a few shots of my sandblasted and painted suspension components. I hope to have the original frame blasted and painted soon. Going to work on remaking some of those pieces I have made before (for the new frame)...turns out bending sheet metal takes finesse to get it right...
Serge you always seem to be about 5 steps ahead of me!! I am living vicariously through your progress.
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Looks good, Chuck!
I'm on my third year into this project, so all in all, I think you're still ahead!
Serge
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yee haw.........dang nice work. Anyone that has a press.......impress's me
Alas my friend I must confess,
I am a charlatan for it is not my press.
To be accompanied by a gorgeous figure
in late evenings it brings me pleasure
To cast envy with such a splendor,
her long legs tread where other wonder
But as we part my heart gets weary
As soon as I have finished she states it clearly
"Eighty dollars" Her cold glare hinted
My wallet's grief surmounts feelings of betrayal
I quietly discover that she was rented,
not by the hour, but by the minute!
:ttiwwp:
;) :)
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Here's a little before and after:
Now that the shop is clean, I have taken the old frame to the farm so that I can put her out to pasture...
...The welding pasture that is. Hopefully there will be some progress to report soon!
I have changed plans. When I picked up the new frame section I had ambitious plans to make new parts for it so that I wouldn't have to "hack up" the original frame. The truth is that the rusty frame is going to need welding anyway, and any cut outs I have to do to it for zetec belt clearance can be welded back. When I get around to overhauling the twin cam I will right the original frame. After seeing how good all my painted parts came out, I have confidence that the frame will look just as good after a little welding.
I am still going to proceed with my project frame...but that can wait til after I have a running and driving car. This way I will get to spend much needed time behind the wheel to see how driving the car actually feels. I think this decision will probably speed up my build by a month or more. Once I get an idea of how it goes I can really modify my project frame to suit something a little more nontraditional...Let's have some fun!! 8)
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Well here we are two weeks later and I have a nice update for you all! Every piece of rusted steel that is destined to return to the car has been repaired and painted! Unfortunately right as I was laying my top coat down the air compressor decided to take a crap on me. It ceased to charge above 25psi, so I was left with a "textured finish" on some of the parts... Better call sears... :blowup:
I recently ordered some of the 75A Polyurethane after reading Dean's (HealyBN7) tutorial on making motor mounts. He said his were still going strong, so in addition to those I am going to try and make the tranny and trailing arm bushings as well. If all goes well I may even try to make some bushings for the A arms. With all this clandestine manufacturing I feel like I should rent a cave in Afghanistan and start making AK-47's as well...
How is my support group?!?!?! :BBQ:
The next phase is to get power in the building where the body is at. After it was all said and done we removed 7000 lbs of debris from there! I plan to start the bodywork on my '66 chevy pick up so that I have something to do when I get bored of doing the bodywork on the lotus. What is a man without options?
Pay no attention to my brother's vulgar expressions of relief, a nail popped a hole in that tire and he had to plug it somehow. Notice that the top of that tire is above the windshield line...That is not a 4x4 truck either...just a plane jane lwb C10. I have been telling people that the lotus is just a semi-waterproof motorcycle only lower. I think that picture sums it up pretty well.
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Great pics and a great update, reading that gave me a chuckle at O-dark hundred on a Sunday morning...... Keep 'em coming.
Brian
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Fair warning...this post contains major alterations to the inherent quality of my car. It is in no way authorized or approved by the factory. Stringent purists avert your eyes now!! :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath:
You have been warned.... :help:
In the spirit of the Europa del sol, and that red hood scooped abomination on ebay I decided to....
:holdurbreath: :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath:
...make my first permanent alteration to the car.... :holdurbreath: :holdurbreath: My mom and I (I can hear the laughter now) made a pattern for the steering wheel and cut a piece of leather to fit. My main contribution was the menial task of punching the holes out to prep it. She started on the sewing it yesterday and needless to say I am impressed with the result! She used to sell hand made dresses and I told her I was going to commission her as the artisan consultant for my interior. ;)
In other news I got a big box of grade 8 bolts in the mail yesterday... Lets see where this frame ends up by April 30th. Exarkun and Serge are storming past me!
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I recently ordered some of the 75A Polyurethane after reading Dean's (HealyBN7) tutorial on making motor mounts. He said his were still going strong, so in addition to those I am going to try and make the tranny and trailing arm bushings as well.
Oh *&^*&^. Don't do it. they worked for a while, but eventually had to replace the mounts with captive sleeves and bushings. You can see what I did for the rear mount in this link:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/lotuseuropa/files/Zetec%20Megajolt%20S2%20Manual/
Or on the third page of this thread.
http://www.vintagemotoring.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1534&start=50
One of the front mounts gave out after a spirited autocross session.
While there is indeed less rubber in these mounts, they still provide dampening and appear to have tightened up the rear suspension. Don't underestimate the role they play in handling. I tried to attach a picture of the new front mounts, but I am not sure it it uploaded.
Let me know where you found the motor mount posting and I'll either pull it down or add a new ending.
Dean
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Well fiddlesticks. Your link is on the lotus europa master documentation menu at the bottom of the engine section. http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/ When I emailed you replied,
"The motor and trans mounts are working out great. Before the change I was getting some rear end steering on our crappy rain grooved freeway, now there is less, so I know it made a small difference."
So I went ahead full steam and made not only motor mounts, but trailing arm bushings and tranny mounts out of the stuff. In fact I was about to go machine some molds out of aluminum to pour front A arm and rear link bushings!! I'm glad you got a hold of me! What do you think lead to the failure? I have a vacuum pump and was going to let the bushings cure under vacuum to draw out any voids.
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They were working fine for a couple years. It wasn't until I pushed them hard on during an autocross session that I experienced the failure. The weak point doesn't seem to be the rubber material, it is the bond to the metal that pulls away.
I don't know how meticulous I was a cleaning the bonding surfaces so that may be a factor. I didn't use a vacuum pump. If you wanted to give it a try, I would go after them with a very rough (40 grit) sander and make sure they sparkle before setting the mold. The other thing I thought would help would be to add more surface area to the mounting plates perhaps by welding small tabs or angles to make the mounting areas more complex.
I do recall responding to your email. I wonder if I was thinking about my "new" bushing style mounts when I misled you as the before/after comment could have only transpired after I changed from the pour-your-own mounts. Poo!
I'll ask Jerry to pull down the documentation.
Dean
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No worries man!! Don't stress it! I am going to keep running with what I've got. I sandblasted the surface of the mounts before I poured them, so maybe that will hold up better? One of the original rubber mounts had done exactly what you described, it simply slid out. The tranny and trailing arm mounts have a configuration that should keep the poly in place. I will be very vigilant with them. If yours lasted a few years, I figure I will be OK for a while. Was the car controllable during the failure at all?
I am super impressed with your through documentation! It is almost a scientific paper! I can only hope to provide a fraction of the level of relevant information to the community. I really like the idea of pouring ones own bushings/mounts, maybe you could just put a caution note on the page.
I am still going to proceed with the bushing moulds. I got some 303 stainless to make the inserts. We will see how it goes...I don't mind being my own guinea pig.
In other news my wheel is finished! Now I'm off to mill a faceplate more reminiscent of the S1/S2 style.
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Can anyone tell me what the diameter of the horn button is for the S1/S2 cars? I'd like to machine my faceplate to be somewhat close.
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I just measured my S1 steering wheel and the ring with the rivets that holds the horn push has an inside diameter of 54 mm and and outside diameter of 82mm.
Serge
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Thank you Serge! :BEER3:
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Well my friends it has been so long that the forum is asking me if I am sure I still want to post in this thread!!
I apologize for the long over due update!!
I have some very exciting news to share...for the first time in my life...I live in a house...with a garage! Since this tremendous development took place I have been overcome with the urge to sand. I am pretty sure I have developed some sort of degenerative nerve condition from using my orbital sander so much.
My drivers side door hinge pin had rotted in to two pieces and seized at the bottom. Would not have been too bad if the door had not been yanked open by a previous owner... The bobbin in the door was totally separated. Has anyone ever tried this repair? I think I may be better off sourcing a new door. I ran in to quite a bit more body damage than I initially expected. There is a foot long crack at the rear quarter which was patched poorly, and the front fender had a previous repair that extended from the headlight to those big cracks from where a tree hit the car. She has had a hard life...
To think out loud for a second I am considering doing a euro turn signal conversion at this stage. Has anyone run in to any inspection related problems because of this? I have seen a few twin cams with shaved warts, but I am not thinking about going that far.
How is everyone out there???
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Congratulations sure are in order for you, Chuck!! Your new house and garage and you've made good progress on sanding! The cracks shouldn't be too hard to fix. As for the door, I guess it all depends on if you can get a nice door or a trashed door. If you can get a trashed door (with the lower bobbin in place), it should be easy enough to cut it out of the donor door and graft it into yours. Otherwise, if you can find a good door, that may be the ticket. I don't know if the bobbins are available any more but even if they are, that could be an option, but grafting that chunk of the door seems easier to me. Sports Car World is in your part of the world and I know they have been a good source of pretty rare parts in the past so I would check them out first.
Good luck and post more often!!! ;D
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Yes, congratulations indeed. Having your own garage for a project like this is surely a blessing. The progress looks great. BDA pretty much summed up my thoughts on the door repair. Cheers.
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Good stuff is coming guys...
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A big congratulations on the garage and house.
To think out loud for a second I am considering doing a euro turn signal conversion at this stage. Has anyone run in to any inspection related problems because of this?
I'd think this would be dependent upon where you live. My car only needed an initial VIN inspection. Vintage plates exempt me from any other inspections.
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Chuck, I totally missed your comment about turn signals. I did that. It wasn't difficult. You have to run your wire from your brake switch to your brake lights directly, then hook the turn signal wires to your new turn light. There maybe a little more to it than that, but not much. It's a good idea as red/white/amber lamps are available but I don't think the red/white lenses are any more.
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The federal red/white lens are still available. I ordered a pair from SJ Sportscar in the UK earlier this year.
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I stand corrected! :D Thanks Joji!
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sneak peek ;)
Just in time for me to have to drive from Dallas to Boston for work....
Anyone out there along the way have a drivers side door they want to sell me?
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Ok, when are you going to end the suspense and tell us what the honeycomb and whatever else is in the picture will be used for? :confused:
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I apologize for being a little too deliberately dramatic. It was a suspenseful week for me... my order of carbon fiber and aluminum honey come arrived the day I had to leave for a week long work trip. I had nothing else to think about on the 60 hours of driving from Texas to Massachusetts and back!
I am going to do a carbon fiber/kevlar sandwich panel with a large piece of aluminum honeycomb to replace my old MDF firewall. Hopefully I will have time to start on that this week. I have a nice lab spec vacuum pump that I got from work. All that is needed now is to turn a few vacuum fittings on the lathe.
So ladies and gentlemen what will the outcome be? A disgruntled 3rd graders attempt at a science fair project, or someone who looks like they know what they are doing?? Tune in next time to find out!
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That sounds like the highest tech firewall I've heard about! It should be a lot lighter than the marine grade plywood many guys use! Please post pictures while you're constructing it!
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I certainly will!
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I started my mold this week and so far things are going well. I just put my first layer of fiberglass over the gel coat and am eagerly anticipating the separation tomorrow! This is my first try at mold making. I also starting building up the cracked pieces of my chin spoiler to make a mold for that piece. Check out The Dukes of Norwich!!
I completely forgot to fill you all in to my goings on last week while I was in Mass. I stopped in Atlanta and got a nice gift from a man on craigslist....The back half of a twin cam europa! I also grabbed a drivers side door from a nice fellow with a type 62 project. That was a monster to behold...and sorry ahead of time but I did not take any pictures of it...Shame shame shame, I know :confused:
I also happened to stop in Birmingham Alabama to see the Barber vintage motorsport museum. Let me tell you, if there is one place on earth you absolutely must see before you die...this is it! That's right, heaven is in Alabama. They had a lotus 11, sitting next to a type 47, sitting next to a type 26r, sitting next to a 23b, sitting next to a type 30, sitting next to a...you get the picture. They must have had about 40 loti of renoun sitting there to behold. Unbelievable.
To be totally honest I didn't know there were any lotus cars there when I decided to stop in. I went to see the incomparable Britten motorcycle. If any of you are not familiar with John Britten I highly recommend you watch the documentary "Backyard Visionary". He was a true individual with an uncompromising and relentless drive. In 1990 he and his friends made this bike in his garage in New Zealand by hand. It utilizes a carbon fiber body, carbon fiber suspension, CF wheels, frameless design (engine is the stressed member...which he sand cast himself!), a state of the art computer system that monitored the bikes performance. All these firsts and he decided to take it racing against the likes of Ducati. I won't spoil the movie for you...it is a real roller coaster.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyht48MAOTw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyht48MAOTw)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV0FWljj6FE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DV0FWljj6FE)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTubQg_4_To (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTubQg_4_To)
Hopefully I will be able to lay some carbon fiber of my own soon!
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Having that spare back end sure helps. Good luck with it and keep those pictures coming! :)
The Barber Museum is amazing. As you found out, besides motorcycles, they also big fans of Lotus and they have a nice collection of street and racing Loti. I'm not much for motorcycles, but I have to say I was fascinated by all the different ways one could build a motorcycle. They have an example of Gurney's (low CG) motorcycle. The last time I was there, I saw a motorcycle with A-arm front suspension. I hadn't heard of Britten but that was probably it. There are probably five floors of motorcycles (with some cars thrown in) from every time period and manufacturer. It reall is something not to be missed.
The videos on the Britten are fascinating, too. I don't know where he gets the time to have his kids after building all those motorcycles and his house! A very interesting guy. I think he's a brilliant lunatic! Who casts his own engine in his in his garage without the proper equipment and on a short time line?! Ok, I just finished the last video... What an amazing story!!! It's truly unbelievable! Thanks for the videos!
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I've been to that museum too, and apart from anything else I was struck by the number of Matchless G50 racing bikes there.
I suspect most of the world's survivors are in that museum
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I have a new surprise for you all...:)
:ttiwwp:
:) :) :) :)!!!!!
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:) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)
Here is a shot of my firewall mold out of the car. The flanges are not pretty, but I think it will work :)
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Great progress, Chuck!
So is the idea to build the whole thing in the mold or are you going to layup one surface, then put the honeycomb and top layer on the cured first piece?
This should get interesting! Good luck!
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That is right. I am going to try a few experimental pieces to establish a good method for bonding the aluminum. The mold needs a little bit of clean up, but is not too bad overall! I need to add some weirs for stability before I laminate. I still need to turn my vacuum bag fittings on a lathe as I was not prepared to shell out 50 bucks for a 1/8 npt air fitting that clamps to plastic.
The bad news is that we are due for a two week cold spell here in TX so I will have to get some kind of heater for the garage.
Stay tuned for some destructive testing.... :)
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Well it got so cold here I have not been able to laminate anything. I decided to switch gears and get back to work on my bushing mold. I have some poly that I plan to pour in there eventually. I made a locator bushing to keep everything concentric. Now I just have to machine the plugs to fill the centers and the stainless sleeves to fit there! It sure is nice to have a boss who has a mill!
After this I need to start hunting down a set of adjustable shocks. Any recommendations?
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Re: shocks
It's amazing there are so many choices for such a rare car! I use Spax and like them well enough. Checking the knowledgebase (http://lotus-europa2.com/ekb.html) others have used AVO, Protech, and GAZ. Of course, there are varying opinions about each.
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Update! Progress is on the horizon! My friend in Connecticut is hand making me a set of 16ga aluminum gas tanks. We are waiting on a sending unit to come in from England...they look incredible so far! He is available for bar mitzvahs, birthday parties, and other restorations.
I changed gears on my mold for the carbon/kevlar/Al honeycomb firewall. The fiberglass mold taken from the firewall was not exactly smooth...(thanks lotus) so I made a new mold out of melamine board. Stay tuned folks... It is about to get expensive.
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Nice tank! That's a big improvement on the original!
Shame on you for even thinking that the compressed horse hair/fiber board/shop sweepings or whatever it's made of would be flat! ;D
Can't wait to see the finished piece!
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That tank is excellent, amazing attention to detail the way he's rolled the end caps. It makes the OEM Lotus ones look like backyard specials...... (which they probably were :) )
Brian
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They were backyard specials. They were steel and had a permanent catch for water in the top. Great design!
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I forget the alloy, but it is for marine application. Supposedly very corrosion resistant. I was showing him some pics of the aluminum tanks floating around on lotus-europa.com to which he replied, "I can do it better". Well, I put it to him to prove it...so far so good!
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Yes! He did VERY well! It really is beautiful.
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I got a warning for this thread being over 3 months old... lol
Guys I am cheating on the Lotus. I started a 1966 chevrolet C10 project about 5 years ago and I'll be damned if it is going to get the best of me. It was my first project and I can confidently say that I barely knew how to change oil when I got it. I learned a lot, (mostly I learned that I am a god awful welder responsible for creating fabrication abominations). I am getting ready to paint this damned thing if only to have some practice before I paint the Lotus. Hopefully it will be painted by next week and I can focus my attention on what is really important...THE CAR! I quit my old job to get the truck and the cars done, but my new job is going to start soon so I may not get to paint the TC as soon as I'd like. Just thought I would throw you guys an update since it has been so long!
In lotus news! I finished both sandwich panels of my CF/Kevlar firewall, and am waiting to bond in the aluminum honeycomb. I did an infusion on the second panel and it worked very well! I plan to infuse several CF panels for the car down the road. I found a supplier for aerospace and commerical grade honeycomb near dallas and I plan to do some strategic reinforcement on the car. Mainly around the sills, doors, roof, and rear 3/4 area. The spec on the commercial grade stuff take 640psi in compression and has a density of 5lbs per cu/ft. This is before any additional sandwich panel support. The weight penalty should be minimal...and who knows, I might survive the first crash I have?! (call me a coward now!) Other than that I have been trying my best to get the car ready for paint. I was planning to paint it in August, but then the job thing snuck up on me so we will see. Boo to work and real life.
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I try to keep up with Lotus models but that is one I'm not familiar with! >:D
Just kidding. Good luck with your paint job! Please post some pictures of your CF, Kevlar, and honeycomb stuff. That sounds really interesting!
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Not much lotus stuff...yet. But here is what I have been up to! I sprayed epoxy on the back and side of the lotus wheels tonight. Hopefully I can get that part of them in color tomorrow. I am getting tired of this truck!
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Back to Lotus stuff! So far I have painted the backs and sides of the wheels in my first attempt at BC/CC. I painted the wheels on the workmate to get good access. The black is epoxy primer, the first pic is color coat before any clear. I am happy with the results so far!
As an aside has anyone ever experienced any health issues as a result of spraying urethane paint? I was in a full paint suit with a new cartridge filter. Total paint time was maybe 1 hr and I had a high volume fan removing air from the room. The next day I did not feel quite right...kind of dizzy and disoriented. Needless to say I am going to invest in a supplied air respirator. Just wondering if anyone had experienced anything similar.
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Looking good - now make sure to watch the tyre guy very carefully !
Painting - I've used a similar set up with a mask rather than fresh air breathing. I've not really had any problems even doing a full car in a relatively small workshop but.....
1. I buy new filters for every job and my mask has 2 filters rather than a single one.
2. I cover up as much as possible, even wearing gloves.
3. I don't spend more than a few minutes at a time (one spray gun is the limit when doing a car) before leaving the workshop for fresh air. The fumes linger far longer than you'd expect and come off the paint whilst drying so I tend to paint (5 mins ?) and then leave for at least an hour before going back in. On the same theme I tend to mix paint & fill the gun outside in fresh air. Fortunately we don't have anyone else living nearby so I'm not annoying neighbors.
4. I spray at relatively low pressures so there's not a lot of overspray or clouds in the air. I think that helps a lot compared with spraying at 60psi like I used to do.
Brian
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Finally got around to painting the fronts!! What do you guys think? I need to polish the fins again as some tape left residue on them.
Also FINALLY GETTING THE DAMN TRUCK IN COLOR!!! That was the second coat of clear on the hood. It really smoothed out on the third one. I had a hard time hammering the clear on because it got a bit colder down here and all my activators are very slow....I am trying to play the safe side on the runs. Lotus progress soon I hope!
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The wheels and hood look great! I hope you'll be out from under the truck soon so you can get back to work on the Lotus!
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Thanks again for the control arms Jim! I can't wait to hook them up to the frame get it rolling!!
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My pleasure! Keep us informed of your progress! :welder:
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Progress!
The lotus is back home, and the truck has been painted! I cleared out the garage to bring the truck home next week and begin the assembly.
I'm not sure if I ever elaborated on the circumstance of my paint booth. My friend let me borrow their abandoned house which was supposed to be torn down in October....They mercifully delayed the deadline for me several times. The picture of the cab in primer has a shot of my lovely mother who helped me do bodywork during crunch time! I showed her how to block and use bondo. She is a machine now! Unfortunately the house is coming down at the end of the year and I wont be able to paint the car in it. :( (It is probably just as well because the roof is caving in...)
the truck = :deadhorse:
Only one hang up....I had a friend help me move the lotus out of its temporary residence. While I was loading a tub he took to "securing" the windshield....I had warned him to be VERY careful with it.... :blowup: Looks like I need a new windshield...
I have a set of Protech shocks and springs on order from SJ. As soon as I can track down a set of lower control arms I will be in business! (Nobody seems to have any! Rdent, Banks, Dave Bean, etc...) Hopefully I will have a rolling chassis by early next year.
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Go mom go! :trophy:
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Great pictures! Thanks, but they don't look at all like a Europa!! ;D
Seriously, the truck looks great and if it goes as good as the motor looks, watch out!
Sorry about the windshield. At least they seem to be available, unlike lower A-arms.
Our regards to your mother. She sounds like a peach!
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Hi
Try to contact "Brammer" in germany i think have the lower arms
Greetings Frank
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Alright guys...minor progress.
I joined up at a co-op workshop in Dallas called Makerspace. They have them all around the country, and if you find one in your neck of the woods you should go check it out. The one in Dallas has some serious hardware including, 5'x10' CNC router, Haas VF2, two post lift, cnc laser cutter, 4 3d printers, mig/tig welding, 3D scanner, full wood shop, lathe, you get the idea.... The unbelievable thing about it is that it only costs $50 dollars a month to join and have access to all this equipment. Classes are offered on just about anything that they have inside.
I borrowed a dashboard to make a template from and modeled it in to CAD. I fired up the laser cutter to do a test piece in cardboard and it is pretty well on. If the dash didn't have those little rabbits cut in the back I would just cut the whole thing with the laser. I just picked up some nice Baltic birch to give to the CNC router as soon as I get the tool paths written. I am planning to make one skinned in carbon twill and another in mahogany veneer.
I also got the SVT focus lower intake manifold up and connected the r6 throttle bodies to it. Now I just need to make up some trumpets....
For those that are curious if I am done with the truck yet, I am not :( I am currently fitting disc brakes to it from an '86 truck. It will be nice to actually be able to stop. Hoping to get that thing wrapped up soon. It needs exhaust pipes and then it is ready to start throwing panels on! :welder:
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Looking good, Chuck! Just remember which one is the prize and to keep your eye on it!
Makerspace sounded really interesting.
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I like the idea of the co-op workshop. That is pretty cool ..even 3D printers too...4 of them! Same money as a gym membership 😁😁 but one hell of a lot more useful. Not heard of these in the uk tho 😔😔
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That is basically what it boils down to. Not all of them are as equipped as the one in Dallas. Ours has grown to have 1000 members and like any gym only 10% of them actually come with any regularity. It is all volunteer based so nobody actually owns it (this one is open 24/7). You are encouraged to teach classes about things that you have expertise in. If you get 3 people to show up to your class they comp your membership fee for the month. I am going to sign up to teach a carbon fiber class out there soon. If you don't have any in England...you should start one ;)
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I think there is certainly a market for it in the UK in the right areas and it 's a fantastic idea. I can see some challenges from an insurance point of view. who is responsible to maintain the equipment in a suitable condition and training, which it does seem that you have covered.
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At ours the chairperson of each group (machine shop, metalworking, woodworking, automotive, etc) is given funds from memberships and donations to maintain equipment and purchase consumables. I am not sure what kind of insurance policy they have, but I could find out. Training is offered by volunteers who have expertise in the equipment. The organization functions as a non profit and I don't think anyone there is paid outside of membership reimbursement for teaching a class. Some things like 3d printer filament is paid for by weight once you print your part, but you can bring your own and print for free. Most things are totally covered though. For instance you do not have to provide endmills or other tools for the CNC machines, those come out of the membership fees.
I do know that the local fire marshal has an issue with the CNC plasma cutter, so it is currently off limits to run...
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Chuck, I'm surprised that you are fitting a zetec into this car. An original big valve TCS is a very rare and valuable Europa. Probably the most collectable !
These things are attracting big money now.
I shouldn't preach , I'm fitting one in mine but mine is not original.
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Chuck, I'm surprised that you are fitting a zetec into this car. An original big valve TCS is a very rare and valuable Europa. Probably the most collectable !
These things are attracting big money now.
I shouldn't preach , I'm fitting one in mine but mine is not original.
Mine was left for dead. I am missing pistons, con rods, and main caps. While I realize those are ford parts, from the damage done to the head It would probably take $5-7k to rebuild it to original spec... That is more than I have in the whole car right now. I got the used RUNNING zetec for $300 bucks...hard to beat that, and it should be more powerful to boot. I guess I could put the TC in at a later date if I decide I want to sell...but I plan to drive the thing daily.
Also check out my new dashboard! The CNC router cut all the rabbits in the back in a single go. Probably 5 minutes of total cut time...Never mind all the hours I spent mocking the thing up in CAD...
Now time for some CF layup...Personally I think a nice walnut burl looks better, but in the spirit of trying new things I cant resist.
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You may want to put something else besides the dimmer on the right. I doubt you'd ever want to dim your dash lights. I put an oil temp gauge there.
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Time trial stopwatch!
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Chuck, I'm surprised that you are fitting a zetec into this car. An original big valve TCS is a very rare and valuable Europa. Probably the most collectable !
These things are attracting big money now.
I shouldn't preach , I'm fitting one in mine but mine is not original.
Mine was left for dead. I am missing pistons, con rods, and main caps. While I realize those are ford parts, from the damage done to the head It would probably take $5-7k to rebuild it to original spec... That is more than I have in the whole car right now. I got the used RUNNING zetec for $300 bucks...hard to beat that, and it should be more powerful to boot. I guess I could put the TC in at a later date if I decide I want to sell...but I plan to drive the thing daily.
Also check out my new dashboard! The CNC router cut all the rabbits in the back in a single go. Probably 5 minutes of total cut time...Never mind all the hours I spent mocking the thing up in CAD...
Now time for some CF layup...Personally I think a nice walnut burl looks better, but in the spirit of trying new things I cant resist.
I understand your dilemma, just hang onto the original engine. Maybe find the time and money to sort it at a later date.
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Chuck, I'm surprised that you are fitting a zetec into this car. An original big valve TCS is a very rare and valuable Europa. Probably the most collectable !
These things are attracting big money now.
I shouldn't preach , I'm fitting one in mine but mine is not original.
Mine was left for dead. I am missing pistons, con rods, and main caps. While I realize those are ford parts, from the damage done to the head It would probably take $5-7k to rebuild it to original spec... That is more than I have in the whole car right now. I got the used RUNNING zetec for $300 bucks...hard to beat that, and it should be more powerful to boot. I guess I could put the TC in at a later date if I decide I want to sell...but I plan to drive the thing daily.
Also check out my new dashboard! The CNC router cut all the rabbits in the back in a single go. Probably 5 minutes of total cut time...Never mind all the hours I spent mocking the thing up in CAD...
Now time for some CF layup...Personally I think a nice walnut burl looks better, but in the spirit of trying new things I cant resist.
I understand your dilemma, just hang onto the original engine. Maybe find the time and money to sort it at a later date.
Definitely :)
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So lots of talk on my end about carbon this and carbon that....
The dash is not finished yet. Still need to trim a bit and then gloss it up with a nice clear coat.
As for the trumpet...I tried 3d printing the mold and it worked...once. I will have to try another solution for the mold as plastic doesn't stand up to my release methods. The part came out looking OK, it was more of a test piece and was made with scraps left over from the dash. It had some voids because I could not press the two molds together hard enough to disperse the resin properly. It was an interesting trial! 38 grams for the trumpet, I think Collin would approve.
3 more to go!!
I am also working on making a mold of the front spoiler.... more to follow in the coming weeks!
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Truck related diversion...my first milled cnc part!
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Congratulatiohs!! :beerchug:
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OK more CNC stuff.
I have a good opportunity at work to use time to get more experienced on the mill....so I might as well use that time to make lotus parts.
The exhaust ports on the zetec are a funny shape...I don't know why they couldn't just make them circular, or ovular, or any symmetric shape for that matter... There were two styles of headgasket, one that matches the port closely which I have ('96 contour), and one that is circular that appeared to go on later the 00-04 focus. As far as I am aware the shape of the exhaust port did not change...If it did I got the gimpy head
I could probably just weld round tube to a round hole and call it done...but I feel compelled to complicate my already full life. I am going to match the port shape on the stainless header flange via CNC and also machine up a die to form the leading edge of the header to match that port.
Relevant? probably not very.... Fun? absolutely
Anyone have any good lit on tuning headers?
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That's interesting, I never did look at the ports in the head. I merely chopped off the existing primaries from the stock header (00-04 Focus) and welded on my own set up. The next time in the garage I'll have a look to see if the later head has the odd shaped ports.
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On the exhaust header I just bought an after market one. It was like $100.00 or so.
(https://performanceparts.ford.com/images/part/full/M9430ZX3C.jpg)
(http://www.lotuseuropa.org/gallery/albums/Zetec/pipingLeft.jpg)
Some where I have a steel exhaust flange I bought from Dunnell Engines. If your interested in it I'll dig it out. You can have it for the cost of shipping.
(http://www.dunnellengines.com/images/catalogue/Zetec%20Exhaust%20Flange.jpg)
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Joe thank you for the generous offer! I am only going to the trouble because I need to get some more time with the mill. Otherwise I would certainly take you up on it.
Thanks!!
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Figured I would revive this old ghost of a thread since I am back!!! After over 4 years of hiatus I have returned to the order of the glass...My hands are still tingling from the DA sander and a familiar itch has returned....Stress cracks are being purged...
Pick up trucks and house restorations be damned!! I have paid my debts to all prior obligations and can now indulge my fiberglass fantasies without guilt! Let this finally be the year that I know what it is to drive a Europa!!!!
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Go get'em Chuck! That's a pretty aggressive plan. Good luck and keep us up to date!
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Congrats on your newfound freedom !
Yahoo! As BDA says to me , stay focused! All the bodywork and painting is a big commitment.
What upgrades to the garage do you have in mind,??? a headset with some music is great for sanding.
Dakazman
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Chuck, you and D'man have my sympathies! I'm in Pensacola visiting family and it is HOT! Given where you both are, I'm sure your in the middle of similar weather. Stay cool!
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Glad to hear your still committed. You can read that anyway you want :trophy:
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Chuck, you and D'man have my sympathies! I'm in Pensacola visiting family and it is HOT! Given where you both are, I'm sure your in the middle of similar weather. Stay cool!
Thanks for thinking of us BDA. A cup of poylester resin goes off in a bout 10 minutes down here.... I have to try and spread it out as fast as possible or it congeals on me...
I wear a sweater when I sand fiberglass so I get a bit of a sauna workout.
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Congrats on your newfound freedom !
Yahoo! As BDA says to me , stay focused! All the bodywork and painting is a big commitment.
What upgrades to the garage do you have in mind,??? a headset with some music is great for sanding.
Dakazman
Dmakazman I am going to put a metal carport up this weekend. That will help me clean out the garage and make a better work space. I am planning to make a temp spray booth with plastic and 2x4s. I need to spend some time reading your thread to uncover your method. You have posted some seriously impressive results!
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Chuck,
Sounds great. I’m here for you. Thanks for your compliments. My son in law is the master of all things paint. It’s all long story but the paint shop I purchased most of my paint from the grandfather son married my daughter, unknown to me his relationship.They are very knowledgeable, and now the grandfather is retired after 40 years in the business. Funny how things work out.
Dakazman
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Guys,
Just want to do a sanity check. I still have the square bobbin that fits in the bottom of the door which was ripped out. I am getting ready to glass it back in the door. Is this big square hole the "adjustment" that is spoken about with the door? Does the finished product simply rely on a pinch fit between the two sand paper discs?
I folded on my fancy honeycomb carbon kevlar firewall...I figured if MDF did the job then marine grade ply should work just fine. Thankfully that job is now done and I also changed the seat belt plates from rust to stainless! The car is preparing to be flipped for crack repair.
I am seriously thinking about adding a few layers of kevlar to the floor after seeing what happened with the spun S2 and the street sign on the forum... not sure if it will help much but it certainly can't hurt...
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Yes, those square bobbins are what allows for door adjustments. I would try to glass it in as close to the same place and orientation as on the other door just to be sure.
Some extra floor stiffness wouldn't hurt, but it didn't happen to be an issue with my car at all. My thin glass was elsewhere. I don't think you would but I wouldn't make the floor substantially thicker. I would think a quarter inch would be a gracious plenty. After all, you won't be standing on it!
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Here is my air bubble filling method for the TCS. I am using the filler with fiberglass reinforcement. I'm grinding out all visible surface bubbles from repairs and filling them before primer. Time will tell!
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I'm not an expert but I have used micro-spheres or chopped mat mixed with resin but I've also used Bondo and glazing putty. I think they both worked well.
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All that will work out fine, Chuck.👍
If you need a template of the bottom hole my doors are still off and I can give you a good point.
I would glass the bottom of the door flat first , cut in place, and then add the square bobbin in later layers.
I see sandy got your back👍
Dakazman
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Upside down again! Assume the "Lots Of Toil Unrivaled Suffering" position.
The doors came out very well indeed. Will post pics soon. I think as soon as the underside cracks are sorted it will be time to flip her right side up and shoot some primer on to see how far out she really is.
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How do you flip it upside down just like that without cracking anything? Many people lifting where? I think the front is quite sensitive when lifting without the closing plate underneath?
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Lahi,
I flipped it with the help of a friend. I was at the front, he was at the rear. Thankfully there was no cracking. The front wheel arches are sensitive to stress, but I have never had an issue moving my TC.
One of my S1 cars had damage to the front wheel arch due to improper frame removal of a PO and this car needs 4 people to move it, the front two must lift with the trailing edge of those wheel arches.
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Lahi,
I flipped it with the help of a friend. I was at the front, he was at the rear. Thankfully there was no cracking. The front wheel arches are sensitive to stress, but I have never had an issue moving my TC.
One of my S1 cars had damage to the front wheel arch due to improper frame removal of a PO and this car needs 4 people to move it, the front two must lift with the trailing edge of those wheel arches.
Ok, thanks!
I asked because I would need to flip mine upside down later on to take care of the underside too. I'll ask a friend to help me out and if I'm not confident it will hold together after the first "test lift" I'll call some more friends ;D
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Lahi,
I flipped it with the help of a friend. I was at the front, he was at the rear. Thankfully there was no cracking. The front wheel arches are sensitive to stress, but I have never had an issue moving my TC.
One of my S1 cars had damage to the front wheel arch due to improper frame removal of a PO and this car needs 4 people to move it, the front two must lift with the trailing edge of those wheel arches.
Ok, thanks!
I asked because I would need to flip mine upside down later on to take care of the underside too. I'll ask a friend to help me out and if I'm not confident it will hold together after the first "test lift" I'll call some more friends ;D
I think you will be surprised at how easy it is to pick up. These bodies weigh nothing...Its kind of scary!
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Update for the week pt 2!
Why are there so many voids and pinholes in this thing?!?!?! I think I am almost done with my underside repairs. Hope to flip it right side up and prime soon. Door repairs are also tedious. Many voids and pin holes.... were these pinholes visible on new cars?
I got a new dynabrade 5" PSA sander with their most aggressive 3/8 orbit. It chews through build up pretty quickly with 40 grit. I have now discovered that it is actually quite a nice luxury to have a roughing and finishing (3/16 orbit) sander at hand for doing this kind of work.
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Back on the ground!
More little stress cracks around the front bonnet lid opening. Hoping to get it ready for primer next week. TCS doors are just about ready to prime but it decided to rain this weekend.
I am starting to get a little freaked out that this stage is wrapping up! It is coming boys!!
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Twin Cam People - Can you tell me if this is normal? When resting in the car, the front bonnet lid does not sit too flush with the body. Is this normally fixed with padding to bring it to level so the panel is under tension at all times? The front part of it seems fine, but the sides are low and the windshield side is high.
The S1 fits almost perfectly when resting in its respective place. S1 panel does not really fit in my TCS well.
I am asking because the car was hit by a tree and the left fender was totally obliterated. If I need to reshape these now is the time to do it. Also I am using a bonnet out of another car because the original seemed even more distorted. That bonnet is assumed to be good... I am more concerned about the side fit rather than the fit by the lock. With pressure everything fits OK there and I am thinking I can fit the lock so that it clamps at the correct height. Right now I am tempted to reshape the car to fit the bonnet rather than the other way around.
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Yeah, I think that's about par for the course. Neither my bonnet nor boot fit exactly right. I thought the boot was being distorted by the rubber trim at the front under the rear window (I think it's used to keep water from getting into the spark plug valley), so I took it off. So far, it still hasn't relaxed to be flush. I'm planning on popping a piece of aluminum angle there so the water will run off to either side of the engine.
My theory is that the older cars were made more exactly with thicker fiberglass. It seems that the Elans (except for their doors), Elan+2s, and S2s fit better, but that's just my thought. You could section out the high parts to make the fit better. It wouldn't be that difficult. Sometimes I wish I had done that, but I didn't.
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Thanks for the quick response BDA. I think I will shave the fenders down to meet the bonnet.
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I'd second BDA, the fit of Lotus panels does seem to have quite a variation. My doors fit reasonably well, the front bonnet is ok front & sides but with a slight kick up at one corner. A distorted panel I'd guess. The rear deck is hopeless, get it to fit at one edge and the other drops or rises from the shell, it's a case of getting the best you can. Original panels, no significant crash damage, it's just that cottage industry that was 1960s Lotus !
They'll have changed moulds several times during the production runs and that's probably the reason for variation in fit, they'll have had some dimension drift as new moulds were made.
As BDA posted, the Elan the S1,S2 & S3 doors were good until some time in the S3 production they started to move outside the body. No amount of adjusting would get them to fit properly so most folks went for a good fit at the front and top rear with the lower rear sitting proud of the body - as Lotus did at the time.
When the cars started to get restored to higher standards then you'd cut the panel to bring the outer skin in line with the body. After 40+ years of decidedly un-aerodynamic doors I decided to do mine a few years back and now, at 52yrs old, the doors fit..... Lotus & cottage industries y'know ;)
Brian
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I'd second BDA, the fit of Lotus panels does seem to have quite a variation. My doors fit reasonably well, the front bonnet is ok front & sides but with a slight kick up at one corner. A distorted panel I'd guess. The rear deck is hopeless, get it to fit at one edge and the other drops or rises from the shell, it's a case of getting the best you can. Original panels, no significant crash damage, it's just that cottage industry that was 1960s Lotus !
They'll have changed moulds several times during the production runs and that's probably the reason for variation in fit, they'll have had some dimension drift as new moulds were made.
As BDA posted, the Elan the S1,S2 & S3 doors were good until some time in the S3 production they started to move outside the body. No amount of adjusting would get them to fit properly so most folks went for a good fit at the front and top rear with the lower rear sitting proud of the body - as Lotus did at the time.
When the cars started to get restored to higher standards then you'd cut the panel to bring the outer skin in line with the body. After 40+ years of decidedly un-aerodynamic doors I decided to do mine a few years back and now, at 52yrs old, the doors fit..... Lotus & cottage industries y'know ;)
Brian
Brian,
Thanks for the reply! I feel that Lotus left it up to us to dial things in on these beasts. It was part of the design intent ;)
I mean how many car manufacturers publish control arm dimensions in the service manual so that owners can verify the tolerance when necessary or remake their own as needed? To me that is owner involvement!!
After I marked a sharpie line on the body it and reviewed old pictures it appears that there was a generous amount of bondo on my old bonnet, so I may just split the difference between the two. The TC doors are another story! My next project is to turn up a set of hinge pins because holy hell I am going to have quite a time getting these to look decent if they are not actually fitted to the car!
I also checked the rear deck lid, and reading your comments made me laugh because mine is exactly as you describe.
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Got a bit of priming done today. Wanted to hammer out a few coats before the temp drops so I have something to do for the next few days. Hoping to get the body prepped and in primer this week! The car that covid built... I guess it's only fitting that the Chinese own Lotus now :FUNNY:
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Looks great, Chuck! I really like the roomy work area, too! Well done! :beerchug:
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Looks great, Chuck! I really like the roomy work area, too! Well done! :beerchug:
Its only roomy because the body panels are so small :)
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It was a beautiful day to paint and smell the fumes! First coat of primer is down on the Twin Cam...It shows the way forward!
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I was about to say she was looking pretty good and then I saw the last picture! Did you not wash the car well enough before you shot the primer?
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I was about to say she was looking pretty good and then I saw the last picture! Did you not wash the car well enough before you shot the primer?
Thanks!! Those are the pin holes that are everywhere in the fiberglass. I washed it with acetone and wax and grease remover. These have been pretty standard on every lotus panel I have painted thus far. After filling with glazing putty and sanding they go away nicely though.
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My painting experience was short and a long time ago so I'm not the one to say, but it seems like you did what needed to be done and still got those pin holes. I hope and expect you're ok. What kind of paint are you using?
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My painting experience was short and a long time ago so I'm not the one to say, but it seems like you did what needed to be done and still got those pin holes. I hope and expect you're ok. What kind of paint are you using?
Thanks. Yeah I think everything is fine. I am using Evercoat slicksand polyester primer. It is pretty thick so I think that's why it is not finding its way in to all the little pin holes. We will see how it looks this weekend after a round of putty, filler, and a second coat! I am not worried at this stage.
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I couldn't resist throwing the bonnet and a freshly primed S1 door on it. Not bad if I do say so myself!!
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Looks great, Chuck!
What I meant to ask before is what kind of paint are you using for your color coat?
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Very, very nice! I think primer gray is a perfectly good color, if you want to quit while you're ahead. ;D
t
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Looks great, Chuck!
What I meant to ask before is what kind of paint are you using for your color coat?
JPS Black! It was originally that color and I believe it was actually one of the numbered cars. It is a Dec '72 build date and there are numbers before and after mine. Unfortunately I don't have the little disc!!
Edit*
Sorry BDA I missed the point of your question.
After all this primer work is done I will seal with 2 coats of SPI epoxy.
I am planning to use SPI two stage urethane color/clear. That's what I used on the truck and it worked well. They don't have a lot of color choices, but black is one of them. For the price they make a good product.
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Very, very nice! I think primer gray is a perfectly good color, if you want to quit while you're ahead. ;D
t
Thanks Surf!! If it had wheels on it I would be more tempted than I am already...
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Nice job Chuck, I like the clean look of the shaved side lights. Did someone say,... BLACK,,,Black is a good color!!! ,Wow a real JPS.
Dakazman
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Nice job Chuck, I like the clean look of the shaved side lights. Did someone say,... BLACK,,,Black is a good color!!! ,Wow a real JPS.
Dakazman
Thanks Dman!! You picked up on one of the key details :) I am thinking about putting the Lucas L734 turn signals like the S1. It does look clean with nothing though...I am following in your footsteps on the blackness!
I am also thinking since I am molding a boot and bonnet for the S1 to make replacements...I might mold my set of S1 doors just in case I want a very clean looking TC. I am really taken by the clean lines of the early windows and lack of door handles. It also opens the door for unconventional materials... ;) Depends on how long this lockdown lasts... My list of projects is growing exponentially!
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Chuck , that was my plan years ago but other to - do projects got in the way. Time is a commodity that disappears fast. It’s easier to repair a door than form it , unless you have no other options.
Boot and bonnet a little easier. I tried to buy a bonnet and the cost of shipping was the deal breaker, so I understand why you want to make them. I posted a few months ago two complete S1 doors free to pick up in Texas . The guy was going to trash them. ☹️
Good choice with the smaller L234 👍👍
Keep blocking the primer with a contrast agent. Get it out in the sun and let it dry. If you have heat lamps use them also.
Dakazman
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Thanks Dman. I am trying to wait 1-2 days of cure before sanding and recoating each panel. This may be excessive though as I have heard that one of polyester primers big advantages is that it does not shrink like urethane hi build which means you can turn the panel around faster.
Ah crap yes I remember those doors... In hind sight I should have gone to Houston to get them, but its about an 8 hour round trip. The boot and bonnet are necessary, but more than that I really want a chance to exercise my molding ability. I have never done a large panel and I want a crack at it. Doors seem like fun because they are 2 part molds. It's a rabbit hole project for sure...
How long would you wait after fiberglassing a part before priming it? I am giving it about 1-2 days as well. Im using a 404 isopthalic poly resin that seems to work well.
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G'day Chuck,
Just one hint on moulding large panels.
After the layup on the donor door, be sure to glass on a reinforcement frame of some sort.
The idea is to make the mould rigid so that any subsequent parts taken from the mould aren't distorted.
The reinforcing frame can be made out of anything that's rigid. I've seen them made out of plumbing pipe which is not pretty, but entirely satisfactory.
For extra points, make the frame such that the mould can sit flat on the workbench.
This guy's work seems pretty good to me.
http://www.sceadu.com/support_fiberglass.html
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All I can say is check with the mfg recommendations on the sanding.
Just a longshot, maybe you can trace Them down.
Dakazman
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Will you be making your molded parts in polyester/fiberglass, or will you be "adding lightness" and going epoxy/carbon fiber? You might even find you have a cottage industry producing CF parts for weight obsessed Europa owners, once you have the molds.
Tom
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Will you be making your molded parts in polyester/fiberglass, or will you be "adding lightness" and going epoxy/carbon fiber? You might even find you have a cottage industry producing CF parts for weight obsessed Europa owners, once you have the molds.
Tom
Tom,
For myself I am going to make Epoxy/CF boot and bonnet on the S1. The factory parts had X core bracing, and are probably 1/4" thick of fiberglass. The TC panels are much lighter so I don't think it would be worth the effort. I am going to paint these panels body color so there will be not outside clues. If other people are interested I would be glad to facilitate their obsessions :) I will try fitting these lids to my S2 to see if there is compatibility. Despite being the same shape, The s1 front lid does not fit too well on the TC and some of the flanging is different at the front - not sure on S2.
I am planning to mold a set of bumpers for the TC because my metal ones were very pitted. I filled them and primed them years ago, but never got around to the execution stage on molding. I might leave these in exposed CF :)
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G'day Chuck,
Just one hint on moulding large panels.
After the layup on the donor door, be sure to glass on a reinforcement frame of some sort.
The idea is to make the mould rigid so that any subsequent parts taken from the mould aren't distorted.
The reinforcing frame can be made out of anything that's rigid. I've seen them made out of plumbing pipe which is not pretty, but entirely satisfactory.
For extra points, make the frame such that the mould can sit flat on the workbench.
This guy's work seems pretty good to me.
http://www.sceadu.com/support_fiberglass.html
Gavin,
Thank you very much for posting that! I always like to read and research other peoples methods. I am using the same material supplier that he used so I won't have that excuse if mine turn out crap!
There is a good youtube channel of this Australian taxidermist who does some very effective molding. WJP004 is the name of his channel. He does his part layups wet to make them simple, but on the mold side he is very generous about showing off his tricks. I am planning to go VARTM (infusion) on these parts.
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Tom,
For myself I am going to make Epoxy/CF boot and bonnet on the S1. The factory parts had X core bracing, and are probably 1/4" thick of fiberglass. The TC panels are much lighter so I don't think it would be worth the effort. I am going to paint these panels body color so there will be not outside clues. If other people are interested I would be glad to facilitate their obsessions :) I will try fitting these lids to my S2 to see if there is compatibility. Despite being the same shape, The s1 front lid does not fit too well on the TC and some of the flanging is different at the front - not sure on S2.
Heads up, the engine cover off an S1/S2 is actually different to a TC - aside from the ‘vent apertures’ being different the real difference is in the area just in front of the ‘flip’ as either side has more shape than a TC to blend into the higher buttress of the S1/S2 - easy to miss until you see it...
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Thanks Jon,
I was thinking more for the front lid. I wasn't planning to make an S1 style rear lid for the TC....but I must admit, now I am off to put the S1 lid on the TC to see if I can spot that flaw!
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Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the link to WJP004.
He has precisely the no nonsense approach needed to take the mystery out of this stuff.
Who'd have thought taxidermy would be a handy skill to have. ;D
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Hi Chuck,
Thanks for the link to WJP004.
He has precisely the no nonsense approach needed to take the mystery out of this stuff.
Who'd have thought taxidermy would be a handy skill to have. ;D
I love his videos! He was self building a country house around the same time I was restoring mine. He gets after it for an old bugger!! Every time I lacked enthusiasm to tile or drywall I would just throw one of his vids on and I was back at it soon...
I wonder how he, being a taxidermist, looks at the world? They say welders see all projects as a weldament, machinists see everything as a solid block...
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Nicely done Chuck! I’ve been watching that Australian guy’s channel fo awhile now. I liked the one where he made an oven out of a discarded gas bbq to soften lexan for a windscreen. Didn’t realize taxidermy was his trade!
Are the S1 doors a straight swap?
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Nicely done Chuck! I’ve been watching that Australian guy’s channel fo awhile now. I liked the one where he made an oven out of a discarded gas bbq to soften lexan for a windscreen. Didn’t realize taxidermy was his trade!
Are the S1 doors a straight swap?
Bodzer,
I think it would take some doing to get a latch system that would work. One would probably have to use an S1 style latch on the door, and make a reciever for the body. Mostly I put that door on the body to get a visual look of a door on the primed body for the picture because my TC doors were full of spot putty for pin hole repairs at that time. :)
I like the look of it enough to explore more. If the boot and bonnet molds go smoothly the S1 doors are next...because whats another project in a project right?!
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Thanks Chuck for the reply. Good luck!
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When I was repairing the damaged fender way back at the beginning of this thing I remember being buried in a cloud of bondo dust as I ground the previous repair away. To copy the profile of the fender, I took cardboard cutouts every 6" starting from behind the headlight. Today I realized I should have started AT the headlight. I trial fitted the buckets and indicators. The LH fender had a surplus of material around the light. Nothing a little plastic surgery couldn't fix!
Still filling the 2nd round of pin holes on the TC. I expect more of the same tomorrow. Should get the second coat of primer down early next week. I am going to try 3d printing the hinge pins for door fitting purposes during painting. The last big issue is the fitment of the rear deck lid. Once those things are sorted I can start dialing in the body lines and think about the sealing epoxy coat...
It was nice to see her with the semblance of a face for the first time in a long time! :) I can't wait til those enthusiastic eyes greet me on the driveway every morning!
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Great work, Chuck! That really does look better but I have to say, I would never have noticed it if you hadn't pointed it out!
This isn't quite the same but it reminds me of a racer friend who made flares for his Shelby GT350. He admitted that they were quite the same side to side but suggested that if you could see both flares at the same time, you had more problems than he did!
I have a feeling you're going to build some very nice cars!
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It's the never ending sanding!!! I wake up every morning thinking I am ready for primer round 2 but alas I find and fix several dozen more things every day. Hope to have some new primer pics up soon :)
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Hey Chuck, Have you given the thought to raise the base of your dolly to about 2’ . It’s much more comfortable and easier to paint.
Dakazman
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I put blocks under the car approx 12" higher when I paint it. I am 5'2" so sanding the roof is easier when it is at 'ride height' :)
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One good thing about not looking at this forum in too long, seeing your progress Chuck. Wow! Looking good man! :trophy:
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One good thing about not looking at this forum in too long, seeing your progress Chuck. Wow! Looking good man! :trophy:
Thanks Mark! Sometimes it feels like I operate on a geological time scale...but even in that regime I have managed to march progress forward! I am shooting for primer round 2 this week. The weather might have other plans for me though....
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Hey Chuck, Have you given the thought to raise the base of your dolly to about 2’ . It’s much more comfortable and easier to paint.
Dakazman
My friend gave me some tires to use on my M3. I couldn't resist trying them out on the Lotus.
I must admit there is some base part of my soul that now wants a monster truck europa. It is probably the same degenerate urge that compels us to stare at the carnival freak show. But my god what a freak show it would be!
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Chuck, looks more like a NHRA funny car. All it needs is a big block in the front. ;)
Sandy
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Chuck , It would definitely add another level of entering and exiting skills😂😂😂
Now that’s a good working height.
Dakazman
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Missing the chrome diff cover, SAD!
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Missing the chrome diff cover, SAD!
You are right! I will be sure to spray paint my transaxle end piece in a bright shiny chrome.
If my support material prints through my paint job again I will just stick 13 stars on it and have a General Lee monster truck europa.
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"Just the good ole boys..." ;D
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4x4 I hope.
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4x4 I hope.
Hell yeah brother
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Chuck,
You may need a sealer on that piece, and maybe the entire car for that matter .
Dakazman
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Chuck,
You may need a sealer on that piece, and maybe the entire car for that matter .
Dakazman
I was planning to lay down 2 or 3 coats of epoxy primer as my sealer before color/clear. The print through went away the second time I primed that piece. The X was raised up above the rest of the panel.
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Goober to hear. I will miss the stars though.
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The X was raised up above the rest of the panel.
Really?
Any thoughts as to why?
I'd be astonished if a ~40 year old fibreglass panel moved much.
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The supports both front and back will raise up when stored upside down. It gets worse if wet.
Dakazman
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The supports both front and back will raise up when stored upside down. It gets worse if wet.
Dakazman
it definitely got wet. the car was stored outside for 30+ years. Actually that is probably why these panels are so heavy...
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Progress today! After almost a month of filling pin holes and sanding both cars...Primer round 2! I used almost 2 gallons of Evercoat slick sand in 2 coats with the 2.5 tip gun and it worked well. I experimented with the thickness to see if I could chase out the last of the pin holes. Mixed results with how it was able to absorb those. I managed to fill some of them, but it ran a little in other places. Still a few pin holes to fix, but this round of blocking should go much faster.
I got some threading tools to turn up the hinge pin bushings out of brass. My plan is to fit the doors before next priming so I can see how much adjustment needs to be made. :welder:
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Chuck, that bodywork is looking great. I just looked through the past 7 years of your project. I'm impressed with what you have accomplished! If I had brought that car home my wife would have killed me.
Where are you at with the frame, suspension and engine at this point?
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Chuck, that bodywork is looking great. I just looked through the past 7 years of your project. I'm impressed with what you have accomplished! If I had brought that car home my wife would have killed me.
Where are you at with the frame, suspension and engine at this point?
I agree, everyone should go back and look at the first photos in this thread and compare to where this car is now. Great work Chuck!
Tom
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Chuck, that bodywork is looking great. I just looked through the past 7 years of your project. I'm impressed with what you have accomplished! If I had brought that car home my wife would have killed me.
Where are you at with the frame, suspension and engine at this point?
I agree, everyone should go back and look at the first photos in this thread and compare to where this car is now. Great work Chuck!
Tom
Thanks guys! I alluded to "keeping it at a friends house" in my initial post because the first year I owned it I was in college living with my father. I was restoring the '66 pick up truck and I was not to bring ANY other projects home... So I kept it a secret for a while... You know you have a problem when you begin stashing car projects in friend's garages. I probably mentioned it but when I was looking for a car there was this one and another JPS car for sale at the time. The other car had been sitting in storage and needed the carbs rebuilt. It was immaculate and the price was $3000 dollars. This car was $1000. Being a student I had $1,100 to my name at the time... to be young again!
My frame and suspension components have all been sandblasted and painted
I have a brand new set of protech shocks (and every other part) waiting in the attic...(I have 3 lotus europa's and a 1966 chevy pick up worth of parts in said attic....)
There are a nice pair of aluminum gas tanks waiting for me at my friend's shop in Connecticut.
The wheels are painted and eagerly waiting with tires on them
The zetec engine is supposedly fine with 30k miles on the clock. It will be a stand in motor until the real one is born.
My last big hurdle is that my 365 transaxle is totally locked up.
I was going to wait to post this til I had practiced a little bit, but I bought some real gold leaf and size to do my pin stripes with :)
It could be my greatest triumph, or the paint's undoing... time to practice!
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That body is really shaping up, Chuck! She's going to be a beauty!
I'll have to go back and see her beginnings. The only thing I remember from then was stories about building your house and garage. You have certainly kept busy for the last several years! Great work on everything!
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Good luck with the real gold leaf. It is fun but i have only seen it used where it is pin striped on the edges. This is the mail box I made for my parents. It turned out pretty good. It has stood the test of time too. in the weather with little protection.
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Good luck with the real gold leaf. It is fun but i have only seen it used where it is pin striped on the edges. This is the mail box I made for my parents. It turned out pretty good. It has stood the test of time too. in the weather with little protection.
Rosco that looks great. Did you find it hard to work with? I am concerned about the edges. If pin striping is best I may have to get a fine brush to do the edges in a gold color.
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The more I sand the more encouraged I get. I am hitting it with 180 and it is really cleaning up nicely. Just a few pin holes left to fill. I think this next coat and sand are going to do it! Then it is on to epoxy primer.
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Good stuff. My wife has me working in the garden so I have to sneak the Europa in.
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Good stuff. My wife has me working in the garden so I have to sneak the Europa in.
Get it in any way you can!
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The doors need some work! What kind of gap do you guys have? I noticed that my "rain channels" are different on both sides of the roof. I believe this is pretty standard fit. I want to make it look nice but I don't want to undo all the Lotus charm from it either :)
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One of my doors still needs work so I'm no expert, but I wouldn't worry as much about gaps as much as the door following the contours of the car.
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When I refit the doors, front & rear covers I worked to a 4.5 mm gap between panels by sanding or adding body filler and sanding that. As a gage I took a piece of wooden door shims and cut a piece about 1/4” wide lengthwise. I then used a caliper to mark shim thicknesses 3, 3,5, 4, 4.5, 5, 5.5, 6 mm etc and used that to have the gaps - took a lot of time but the result looked good.
Tom
74 TCS - 4605R
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Not sure if I have stumbled on to something significant yet, but these rubber bonded stainless washers are working great for initial door alignment. They have enough play that you can snug them down and it will hold the door in a fixed position. They are forgiving enough that if you tap the door you can realign it in the snug position, but it will not immediately droop when you reopen it.
https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=15791 (https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=15791)
Has anyone out there used anything like this before? for the final adjustment I will use some adhesive bonded sandpaper to the rubber so that you get the bite needed for long term holding.
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Switch to 400 grit here on out till your ready for color. 180 is to course and probably the reason you went thru 2 gallons.
Those washer look like what is in the s/s kit.
Dakazman
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Switch to 400 grit here on out till your ready for color. 180 is to course and probably the reason you went thru 2 gallons.
Those washer look like what is in the s/s kit.
Dakazman
Thanks for the feedback Dman. The 180/220 has brought it all pretty level for this second go around. I have a few little low spots to fill with spot putty before spraying again. I am not sure if the volume used was because of my change in spray technique (slowed down) or I got more comfortable with the 2.5 tip, but it drained out of the gun, and before I knew it I had put one coat down and I was already one gallon deep. I am pushing this layer with sanding until I flatten out or hit high spots to ensure that I have taken it down as far as I can. I think one more gallon should do me on this hi build of the TCS.
I am tempted to try the slick sand on the S1 for this next go around because I am still more comfortable with spraying it rather than the duratec. I am getting close to taking the mold off my other S1 tail section for grafting.
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My main door struggle appears to be the A pillar corners of the RH door. When everything else is within reasonable equilibrium the gap is totally gone on that corner. I have received advice that the seal will push this corner out and make it look better. Can anyone else relate their experiences with this particular spot? My body was a bit out of shape here and that will need correcting to clean up the corner joint as it transitions from window to door.
My hinge pin bobbins were slightly out of line in the RH door. I had to pull on the rod a little bit to get it to slide in. The LH side slipped right in and the gaps are more consistent there.
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Dman you were right about going ahead with higher grit. I started dusting with 320 and it is taking shape now. This will hopefully reveal the last round of low spots once I throw the guide coat down.
I used fiberglass reinforced filler to clean up the mismatch and gap issues here. Seems to be working well.
I also got the rear decklid close to primer shape today.
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My main door struggle appears to be the A pillar corners of the RH door. When everything else is within reasonable equilibrium the gap is totally gone on that corner. I have received advice that the seal will push this corner out and make it look better. Can anyone else relate their experiences with this particular spot? My body was a bit out of shape here and that will need correcting to clean up the corner joint as it transitions from window to door.
My hinge pin bobbins were slightly out of line in the RH door. I had to pull on the rod a little bit to get it to slide in. The LH side slipped right in and the gaps are more consistent there.
The door gap needs to be as equal as possible all the way around. Otherwise you won’t be able to get a complete seal with the rubber weather stripping. Compensating for one part of the door only creates a different problem for another edge of the door. I hate to say this, but you might have to re-align one of the bobbins. Now I understand why you wanted to install the weather stripping for a test. I’m in agreement with you doing that now that I see the issue.
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It just occurred to remind you to reinforce the upper corners of the A-pillar if you haven't already.
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My main door struggle appears to be the A pillar corners of the RH door. When everything else is within reasonable equilibrium the gap is totally gone on that corner. I have received advice that the seal will push this corner out and make it look better. Can anyone else relate their experiences with this particular spot? My body was a bit out of shape here and that will need correcting to clean up the corner joint as it transitions from window to door.
My hinge pin bobbins were slightly out of line in the RH door. I had to pull on the rod a little bit to get it to slide in. The LH side slipped right in and the gaps are more consistent there.
The door gap needs to be as equal as possible all the way around. Otherwise you won’t be able to get a complete seal with the rubber weather stripping. Compensating for one part of the door only creates a different problem for another edge of the door. I hate to say this, but you might have to re-align one of the bobbins. Now I understand why you wanted to install the weather stripping for a test. I’m in agreement with you doing that now that I see the issue.
I think you are correct. The way I have it now every other gap seems just about perfect on RH door. That top corner seems to be the only pinch point. I had to pull the rod toward the body to get the top bobbin in. That doesn't guarantee that the bottom bobbin isn't the offender, but it might suggest that the axis of rotation around the pin is tilted inwards toward the roof. I would think this would manifest itself in the bottom corner of the door too though... I will verify the angle of each bobbin once I get the door off.
Seals are on order so it looks like this part of the project is stalled for the moment. Good thing I have an S1 to restore :)
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It just occurred to remind you to reinforce the upper corners of the A-pillar if you haven't already.
On the windshield side? or on the door?
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More on the door side but I would carry it over above the windshield. I think the fact that the corners of the windshield and door are close together is the problem.
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More on the door side but I would carry it over above the windshield. I think the fact that the corners of the windshield and door are close together is the problem.
I will do it. Mine don't seem to have any cracks yet, but the S1 was cracked there at the windshield side. The A pillar profile on the S1 has less geometry and is more prone to twist.
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I am playing around with the gap of RH a bit more and I think the best compromise is to sacrifice the door being proud in the body section's front upper corner to give the window pillar a better match to the windshield and roof. This means I need to dope the rear of the front fender a bit more with fiberglass filler, but I think this is the most straightforward fix.
I felt so proactive when I was making mountains of filler dust while stripping this thing back to glass in 2014...now I wish I had paid attention to where all the filler used to be...
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Can't say I am enjoying the process of making these doors fit flush, but it is happening regardless...
Hope to be done in a few days so that I can continue to prepare for the final prime. So far no big surprises...other than the doors that is....
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Twin cam question for the experts!
Was any sealant, gasket, or rubber molding used when installing the chin spoiler and side trim on the special?
I have just about got the panel gaps where they need to be. I am trying my best to make sure everything else fits too!
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I believe the chin spoiler was simply bolted on. By "side trim" I assume you mean the panels between the wheels under the doors. I believe they were held on by clips along the bottom, a pop rivet on either end, and double stick tape along the top. In addition, there was a strip of bright work that ran along the top. I have some original bright work (that needs some polishing and one needs a bit of straightening) if that interests you. I got replacement bright trim from r.d. enterprises and it came out nicely. IIRC, it is plastic with finishers on both ends.
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I believe the chin spoiler was simply bolted on. By "side trim" I assume you mean the panels between the wheels under the doors. I believe they were held on by clips along the bottom, a pop rivet on either end, and double stick tape along the top. In addition, there was a strip of bright work that ran along the top. I have some original bright work (that needs some polishing and one needs a bit of straightening) if that interests you. I got replacement bright trim from r.d. enterprises and it came out nicely. IIRC, it is plastic with finishers on both ends.
That is exactly what I needed to know! Thanks BDA. I am missing the bright work. I will send you a PM.
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UK Twin cam owners I have a favor to ask.
Could you give me approximate turn signal measurements for the Lucas L734 placement? I need to drill the body before the last prime. Progress is coming!
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Hi Chuck,
This is a UK Special on the side that is least likely to have been rebuilt. I'm pretty sure the other side has had repairs to the underside of the front cavity below the spare wheel.
I laid a straight steel box section across the top of my wings with the front edge at the front of the bodywork above the headlights and dropped a plumb line from the front edge. See the pictures it's clearer than explaining!
The centre of the repeater indicator, where the bulb fits, is 25mm back from the plumb line, towards the rear of the car, and 140mm below the bottom of the box section.
Hope this helps,
Richard
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Hi Chuck,
This is a UK Special on the side that is least likely to have been rebuilt. I'm pretty sure the other side has had repairs to the underside of the front cavity below the spare wheel.
I laid a straight steel box section across the top of my wings with the front edge at the front of the bodywork above the headlights and dropped a plumb line from the front edge. See the pictures it's clearer than explaining!
The centre of the repeater indicator, where the bulb fits, is 25mm back from the plumb line, towards the rear of the car, and 140mm below the bottom of the box section.
Hope this helps,
Richard
Thank you Richard! I am in your debt!
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Hi Chuck,
This is a UK Special on the side that is least likely to have been rebuilt. I'm pretty sure the other side has had repairs to the underside of the front cavity below the spare wheel.
I laid a straight steel box section across the top of my wings with the front edge at the front of the bodywork above the headlights and dropped a plumb line from the front edge. See the pictures it's clearer than explaining!
The centre of the repeater indicator, where the bulb fits, is 25mm back from the plumb line, towards the rear of the car, and 140mm below the bottom of the box section.
Hope this helps,
Richard
Thank you Richard! I am in your debt!
No problem.
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Lotus position #2 - Flamingo style
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Lotus position #2 - Flamingo style
Perhaps the proper shoes would make this easier, Chuck . . .
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I don't think any of us want to see Chuck in pointe shoes and a tutu! ;D
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Sure we do, BDA.
Just a couple more weeks of lock down and I'm confident you'll see the common sense in all this. :))
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Lotus position #2 - Flamingo style
Perhaps the proper shoes would make this easier, Chuck . . .
You know I am willing to try anything at this point :) Just make the sanding go away!!!
I don't think any of us want to see Chuck in pointe shoes and a tutu! ;D
Sure we do, BDA.
Just a couple more weeks of lock down and I'm confident you'll see the common sense in all this. :))
It's funny that you posted that because I like to think of the Europa as an matured ballerina. The woman in your picture just needs some gold JPS stripes. Maybe we have been on lockdown too long...
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It's funny that you posted that because I like to think of the Europa as an matured ballerina. [...]
Reckon there's something in that.
There's not many fifty year old cars that handle with such poise and grace.
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Round 3 down. Started blocking with 320 and I am getting promising results. Could this be the final hi build?!
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That's looking pretty good. I'm sure you've seen it but just in case, there appear to be some sags around where the engine cover adjuster is in the rear. I'm sure that's an easy fix.
Great work, Chuck! I can't wait for the color coat!
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That's looking pretty good. I'm sure you've seen it but just in case, there appear to be some sags around where the engine cover adjuster is in the rear. I'm sure that's an easy fix.
Great work, Chuck! I can't wait for the color coat!
Yeah it is a tricky part to spray especially with that 2.5 tip I am using on the polyester primer. They sand out pretty easy though. :)
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It has begun! I have a complete set of S2 lower control arms I purchased from a forum member a while back. They appear to fit just fine with the protech shocks I have. Is there any big difference between those and the TCS factory lower arms besides the welded boss which allows more clearance for the lower mount of the shock absorber?
My lower a arms were quite pitted and I had a hell of a time finding a nice pair of TCS series arms. I got the uppers from BDA and they are great!
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I'm glad the uppers are working for you!
I'm pretty sure the TC and S2 lower arms give the same suspension geometry and the only difference was that boss for shock clearance. The stock shocks between the S2 and TC are different but I don't actually know what about the TC shocks required that boss - possibly a lower perch? I would think with the more modern shocks with adjustable perches, you would be able to use either S2 or TC lowers but I seem to remember trying S2 lowers and was not happy with the fit, but that is even more vague memory than my other memories so you should give it even less credence than you would usually give my memory! Since you're working with both, you might want to experiment.
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I got a steering rack from a donor TCS and overall it feels very good. The inner tie rods don't feel loose per se, but they certainly aren't as snug as the outers. Is it common to have to service these? I seem to recall reading about injecting grease inside the boot with a syringe.
I also pinched the anti roll bar off the donor car, but the bushings are toast and it has been modified a little bit. Seems like it is easy enough to change the roll bar even with the body on, but I might be procrastinating with something that will come to haunt me later... I have read the stories that changing these bushings requires the help of the devil.
As soon as I get my hubs greased up I should be rolling on the front end.
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Don't use chassis grease in a steering rack. Use either gear oil or semi-fluid grease -- I used gear oil many, many times. Chassis grease can restrict the free flow of air back and forth as the respective bellows expand and contract. I just clean around the boot, pry it off and pour some in.
All the lower arms give the same suspension geometry. The later TC/S arms provide more clearance around the spring and shock. Run them through their travel without the springs on to make sure everything clears.
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Don't use chassis grease in a steering rack. Use either gear oil or semi-fluid grease -- I used gear oil many, many times. Chassis grease can restrict the free flow of air back and forth as the respective bellows expand and contract. I just clean around the boot, pry it off and pour some in.
All the lower arms give the same suspension geometry. The later TC/S arms provide more clearance around the spring and shock. Run them through their travel without the springs on to make sure everything clears.
Perfect, Thank you JB! I just got some 100 weight gear oil for my rotary table. Was wondering what I would ever do with the rest of it :)
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I got a steering rack from a donor TCS and overall it feels very good. The inner tie rods don't feel loose per se, but they certainly aren't as snug as the outers. Is it common to have to service these? I seem to recall reading about injecting grease inside the boot with a syringe.
I also pinched the anti roll bar off the donor car, but the bushings are toast and it has been modified a little bit. Seems like it is easy enough to change the roll bar even with the body on, but I might be procrastinating with something that will come to haunt me later... I have read the stories that changing these bushings requires the help of the devil.
As soon as I get my hubs greased up I should be rolling on the front end.
I'm not sure what you mean when you mention inner and outer tie rods, but I think you are at least talking about the tie rod joint at the end of the rack and inside the boot. It should require about 8 lbs force to move the tie rod at the end. Less is not better. This is adjustable with shims. The S2 manual goes into good detail about how to set that up (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/s2work/h/s2h.pdf). You might need to make some adjustments.
My practice is different from JB's. I use moly grease on my rack and pinion. I know that sliding friction is what moly is best for and that there is rolling friction between the rack and pinion, but I've had no problems (nor would I expect to have any if I used JB's method). The manual says on reassembly to the rack to pack the bellows with 1/2 oz of Shell Retinax 'A' or similar. That is apparently a multipurpose grease as might be used on wheel bearings. I don't assert my practice is better but only that it is simple and seems to work well for me. I would also say that back in the '70s I had heard of bellows on racks on a race car that were connected by a hose - probably to solve the problem JB describes wrt air flow.
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BDA thanks for the advice about the shims. I found that Ray stocks the shims for the inner ball joints so those are on order in addition to many other goodies.
Not much distinct visual progress yet, but I have been practicing my gold leaf pin striping. There is definitely a window on the dry time of the size that you want to be in. My best results so far have been when the glue just squeaks as you rub it. Almost all the tack feeling is gone from it, but it still holds the gold just fine. The stripes are blinding in the sunlight!! I can't wait to have them on the car. :) :) :)
The boot and bonnet fitting continues. I think it is just about finished. I may make a mold of the boot (even though I said I wouldn't) because I have had to add quite a lot of filler to get the lines and gaps correct... added lightness through a shedding of sorts....
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Nice work on the stripes, Chuck!
I'd advise getting a spring scale to test the resistance of your tie rods. A trigger gauge works well too if you don't have a spring scale.
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Well I was going to wait and update when I had color on it...alas almost there....
Lessons from the primer...Don't be afraid to put 4 or 5 coats on at a time....The can says 2-3 but that is crap advice. Maybe I am bad at using filler, but I found that really hammering this stuff out saves on the prep of sanding and recoating a million times.... I have put a few gallons of primer on this thing and sanded much of it back off at this point...
Special thanks to Gavin for recommending the VW beetle boot release mechanism! With a little modification to the body it fits very well. I am finally happy with the seal of the boot and the gaps. I still need to come up with a clever way to latch the bonnet in the center, but from the inside. This panel crowns a bit when not under tension from the latch.
The whole car is sanded to 400. The plan is to flip it, seal the bottom with unreduced 2 part epoxy from SPI and wait a day. Once the car is right side up and everything is dusted down one last time I will shoot a 20%-30% reduced coat of epoxy as a sealer followed by 2 coats of base about 6 hours later. The next day I will shoot 3 coats of clear. Then its time to push the car in to the sun for a few days and sand with 800 in preparation for gold leaf and reclearing. I have been advised that one should shoot adhesion promoter on top of the gold leaf before clear coating.
Before any of that can happen I need to finish my mold of the rear decklid as it has become much heavier with all the filler I had to add to straighten it relative to the body.
two more weeks!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJhHjACjJjA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJhHjACjJjA)
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That looks excellent, Chuck.
If I recall, the VW beetle mechanism was used on the front bonnet (hood?) rear corners.
Just to be clear, I can't recall who did the mod but it wasn't my idea.
But I'm pleased you've been the guinea pig for the rear engine cover.
I figured it'd be worthwhile in terms of better locating the engine cover laterally which should limit it moving around and chafing the side channels.
Well done.
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Yes thank you!!
The lid is under a very slight tension when it is latched which I feel helps to hold it in place too. I am using mixing sticks as spacers for now to locate the height, but I plan to use little rubber adhesive pads in the rain channel. I am also planning the gas strut hood prop so that should help locate it laterally as well.
I would use them in the front like the picture shows, but unfortunately my hood crowns a bit in the center by the windshield. If I locate it at the corners it would probably still bow up. The latch itself weighs about 120g so it is not too heavy and the benefit of having fewer keys is nice. I could probably also integrate a solenoid release in to the boot for remote unlocking.
I also pulled this lad out of the attic the other day...What horrors await inside...
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To limit the chafing, a friend of mine made aluminium pads about 20mm diameter x 2mm thick which he's glued to the engine cover vertical sides sorta near the peak of the lid at the rear.
Opposite the discs, above the rain channel he glued a piece of clear plastic for it to rub against.
Don't know what the plastic is but it looks similar to the stuff used to protect from stone chips on the rear wheel openings of Porsche's etc.
The intention is to provide a deliberate 'high spot' where the chafing takes place and thus limit the common chafing over an extended length in the rain channel. Seems to work.
How much does the front hood crown?
There's a bulletin whereby it's suggested to install a vertical strip of ally inside the rear face of the hood. The idea was to limit lifting of the corners at speed. Perhaps something like that could be ingeniously installed to deliberately 'dissuade' the crowning . . he said thinking out loud.
Bonnet stays.
I'm planning on going old school. While the gas struts are nice, I'm always concerned about the stresses induced when closing the relatively weak lid. I might have that wrong.
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To limit the chafing, a friend of mine made aluminium pads about 20mm diameter x 2mm thick which he's glued to the engine cover vertical sides sorta near the peak of the lid at the rear.
Opposite the discs, above the rain channel he glued a piece of clear plastic for it to rub against.
Don't know what the plastic is but it looks similar to the stuff used to protect from stone chips on the rear wheel openings of Porsche's etc.
The intention is to provide a deliberate 'high spot' where the chafing takes place and thus limit the common chafing over an extended length in the rain channel. Seems to work.
How much does the front hood crown?
There's a bulletin whereby it's suggested to install a vertical strip of ally inside the rear face of the hood. The idea was to limit lifting of the corners at speed. Perhaps something like that could be ingeniously installed to deliberately 'dissuade' the crowning . . he said thinking out loud.
Bonnet stays.
I'm planning on going old school. While the gas struts are nice, I'm always concerned about the stresses induced when closing the relatively weak lid. I might have that wrong.
About 6mm of crown. You make a great point about that strip as the hood I am using did not have one. Perhaps I should experiment with that first before going further.
That is a good point about the struts. I did not really think about the closing stress on the lid. The tutorial I found recommended using 20 lb struts.
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Chuck - I installed gas struts on my engine cover after I did a fit and finish on the cover - the cover fit perfectly before I fit the gas struts but terrible after. The forces required to close the cover with the gas struts caused the cover to distort. So, I’m not using gas struts.
Tom
74 TCS - 4605R
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I installed gas struts on my engine cover and they were one of the best mods (and I have A LOT of mods) I have. I don't weld so I got a kit from Richard at Banks. I changed the way they mount. If you're interested, here's the thread on how I did it and the things I missed: http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=2486.msg23618#msg23618
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Well who could be surprised that I have found more ways to delay myself in painting my car?
With the decklid fitting so nicely it has become problematically heavy from the body filler...This set me on a crash course with molding to make a lightweight new panel... I am also making a mold of the chin spoiler because I am a knave and I want a carbon fiber one.
I have finished the top side of the deck lid. I am planning to make this a two piece mold unless any of the wise mold makers out there have other opinions.
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Very ambitious, Chuck! Are you going to finish the vertical edges with a rounded bottom like the original? I aspire to be a dumb mold maker but that seems like it would be difficult. On the other hand, I think it would add rigidity and it may help seal the engine compartment from rain.
It looks good so far. Good luck!
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Very ambitious, Chuck! Are you going to finish the vertical edges with a rounded bottom like the original? I aspire to be a dumb mold maker but that seems like it would be difficult. On the other hand, I think it would add rigidity and it may help seal the engine compartment from rain.
It looks good so far. Good luck!
Thanks BDA.
Yes these will pose a problem... My limited imagination on this thinks that for simplicity sake lotus made this in a two piece mold, but the probably prewet the fiberglass and rolled it up inside that channel with a special roller. Mine had the voids to prove that it was probably done blind like that.
I am not sure if trying to mold this bottom piece in one shot will pose a huge lay up issue or not. I am planning to do this part via infusion so it will be bagged and the resin will be dispersed through vacuum. You can prelay the dry fabric with the help of adhesive spray to tack it in to place.
I could also modify my plan and make a 3 piece mold with the last flange to be added once the main fabric is laid up.
Not sure how the flanges will affect final vacuum and if I will need to seal them from the outside to prevent leaks. Could be the case. I'm in uncharted waters! (for myself anyway...I'm sure Bill the Australian taxidermy mold wizard would make short work of this thing)
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I can’t weld worth a damn, but I love fiberglass, and you sir, are a master! There is probably a cottage industry opportunity for selling carbon fiber deck lids, bonnets, and dare I say doors.
Tom
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. . . for simplicity sake lotus made this in a two piece mold, but the probably prewet the fiberglass and rolled it up inside that channel with a special roller. Mine had the voids to prove that it was probably done blind like that.
Looking mighty fine, Chuck.
Yeah, Lotus must have used a two piece mould, I reckon.
I've never done an infusion job but agree the 'channels' must have been done blind.
To avoid situations where a resin rich internal corner is likely, I sprinkle a line of chopped fibres right in the corner before the mat goes down.
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Thanks guys!
I trimmed the top of the mold today. Need to get a friend to help me flip it so it doesn't separate from the mold for side 2. I can't believe how much resin I am using on this damn thing. I have probably burned up 5 gallons already. It's like I'm building a boat or something.
The front splitter popped out of its mold with hardly any prompting...Should be a good sign for the decklid... I have some small repairs to do on the splitter mold, but nothing major. The time to entomb both of them is drawing close.
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Congratulations on your splitter! I hope the engine cover works as well!
As I stated before, I aspire to only be stupid about making molds but I wondered if it might make sense to make the bottom edge of the cover from a separate mold and glass it on? It might be just as much work - or even more - but it might be worth considering in case it does make sense. Just a thought...
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BDA,
There is a strong chance that once I put the flanges on the inside I will not have the access needed to properly do the channel. The plus side is that I can use either mold separately so I should be able to still make it work if I need to bond the pieces together later.
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First step is complete. The parts popped out of the mold without much fuss at all. It only took about 5 minutes to demold the decklid and the spoiler happened in seconds. Up next is a wet sand and polish before the infusion. Time to dig the vacuum pump out of the attic!
My spray gun had a clog issue when I went to paint (incomplete cleaning...shame on me!) so I decided to brush the rear side on. I probably used 20% more gel coat this way, but it seems to have worked just as well as spraying it incase anyone wants to wander down this rabbit hole.
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Well done Chuck!
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What Bodzer said!
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Thanks guys!
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Chuck, with molds like yours you can now corner the market on boots, bonnets and front splitters.
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Chuck, with molds like yours you can now corner the market on boots, bonnets and front splitters.
Thanks Sandy. We will see what kind of abominations are born from them!
I'm not sure if anyone else is doing this stuff for Europa on our side of the ocean...I know of a few outfits in the UK who have molds, but everything is fiberglass. There was a kid from Italy who posted on here a few years ago trying to drum up interest in a carbon body. I must say it would be cool...
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Chuck, any thoughts on carbon fiber front and rear bumpers?
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Chuck, any thoughts on carbon fiber front and rear bumpers?
I got the parts prepped to make molds of and then I decided to just fill the bumper holes on my car for a cleaner look. I may end up making those molds down the road if anyone is interested.
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She's black!!!
Just base coat for tonight. I had some dust contamination issues so I am letting it dry after 1 coat to wetsand tomorrow for another round of base.
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She’s looking good, Chuck! Are you doing A/C? Black is beautiful, but it’s pretty tough in Dallas!
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Thanks BDA! No plans for AC at the moment....but I have 8 more months of bliss before I have to worry!
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How lucky am I? I started to open the case of my 365 which was locked up tighter than a bank vault. I expected the mess of oil, ocean water, and diarrhea that came out, but I did not expect it to clean up nearly as well as it has so far!
As soon as I can produce a thin 30mm wrench to remove the speedo drive I will be able to split the case and begin the reanimation in the ultrasonic parts washer.
It seems that most of the bearings and seals can be had so I think this old girl will turn again with life.
An aside on the painting. It turns out I made a whoopsie. I believe the problem I was having with contamination in my base coat came from the mold work I did in the paint booth. I think trimming the waxed molds is what caused the havoc even though I put a new plastic floor down. I sanded it all off and reprimed with epoxy. This went well enough so I will just leave it like that until it warms up again. Now I have no excuse not to rebuild this drivetrain and have a driving chassis before I paint the car.
I once saw a Japanese youtube video where an owner made a "floor" for the frame by attaching a piece of plywood to the bottom and fitting a chair to it so that he could drive the bare frame around. I want this in my life....
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Most bicycle shops sell 30mm thin headset wrenches. They come in 30, 32, 33, 34, 35, and 40mm.
Like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Park-Tool-HCW-7-Headset-Wrench/dp/B0012Q4EH6
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Thanks for the tip JB!
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That second picture looks pretty bad. I hope it looks better in real life!
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:FUNNY:
That second picture looks pretty bad. I hope it looks better in real life!
The 5th gear looked just like that. After scrubbing with a wire brush and some lacquer thinner it looked much better. We will see what the diff looks like cleaned up...
Sports car world has a supply of Renault gearboxes. I am not sure about their supply on 365 gear sets though...
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Fifth is the hardest to find since it’s a Hewland product. You might start to consider an NG3 in case you need the option.
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%th synchros are not a problem, it wears between 5th gear and it's bush due to lack of lube. If that's good you fine, and LUCKY !!
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any tips on removing stuck speedo drive? I picked up a set of these service wrenches at HF for around $40 with 20% off.
https://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metric-service-wrench-set-93668.html
(https://www.harborfreight.com/15-piece-metric-service-wrench-set-93668.html)
I tried penetrating lube
propane heating
shock loading with hammer taps while applying torque to wrench
The stuck shafts have just now begun to wiggle in rotation and the speedo nut is still tight! Am I missing something really dumb like it being LH thread? from the crest of the thread sticking past the edge of the nut it seems like it is conventionally threaded...
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The manual suggest locking it in two gears at the same time. That way you only have to hold the transaxle from moving.
It's been a while and I can't remember if the gear is RH or LH thread. Hopefully someone who does will chime in.
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In case the NG3 is similar, I relay my memory.
I took off the speedo gear from my NG3. I used a 32mm crowfoot wrench that I ground down to fit the flats of the piece (can't really call it a nut). I don't remember any problems getting it off. I torqued it using red locktite (the manual calls for Loctite FRENBLOC which from what I was able to tell is the same thing but I'm not sure). Obviously, that can't have been used on the initial assembly since the heat you would need to loosen the piece would melt the nylon gears. I thought Richard told me to to torque it pretty high (don't remember the torque) but it appears that the NG3 manual only 35 ft-lbs.
There you go. That's about all I think I remembered.
Hope it helps!
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This is my first transmission rebuild and I think I jumped in at the deep end. I got fed up with trying to knock the speedo drive off the end of the output shaft so I pulled the pins on the plate and split the case just to see how bad it was.
Initial signs look promising upon grime removal. There are polished surfaces under there....
I doubt this is ever going to be a quiet trans though.....
What say you forum? Does she deserve to live another time?
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Sorry, I think you are looking for another transaxle. What a waste.
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That pinion looks pretty crook, Chuck.
What's the history here . . did the trans take on water or something?
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That pinion looks pretty crook, Chuck.
What's the history here . . did the trans take on water or something?
Gavin,
This car was picked up 100ft from the Gulf of Mexico. The PO told me that it was completely submerged in brackish hurricane water for several days during Katrina which was one of our record setting storms in the US hence the 'Ropacane name of this thread. He had just moved to the area a month prior to the storm and his house and all his possessions were completely destroyed.
I will go ahead and bite the bullet on the new 365.
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Best of luck finding a good replacement!
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Luckily I have a friend with a spare that I can buy from him. I might take this moment to explore NG3 too.. Seems like those can still be found for a few hundred as opposed to a few thousand.
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car-part.com has some NG3s listed for '83 and '84 Fuegos (I believe those were all turbos). You will need to verify that they have them since stuff that is listed isn't always actually there. Make sure you explain you're looking for a transaxle and not a transmission.) Failing that, Lotus-supplies has them listed for £1600. It looks like it says it's a 13 which isn't listed in my NG manual. There are modifications that should be made (http://www.greytower.com/jon/lotus/europa/gearbox/gearbox.html) but I suspect that they will already be done for that price. Mine included linkage parts (some fabrication required). So while it sounds expensive, it's not quite as bad as it seems. The trannies listed on car-part.com are a couple of hundred bucks so if they are actually available, you can decide which way you want to go.
I tried pickandpull.com but they had no Renault parts. Is there another salvage operation to try?
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As BDA posted. I've bought a transmission from a jy on car-part.com out of state. It was a rare trans and came as described shipped on a pallet. Good luck.
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I am in talks with one of the NG3 scrappers and it looks like I will be getting one of his units. BDA, if I go cable shift it seems like I shouldn't need to modify the linkage any more than for a standard conversion correct? Lexau talks about the banks linkage. Did you have to do anything special on yours since you are cable shift?
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JB did a cable shift so he can tell you all about it. There are also plans on the group.io list as well as here: http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm
FWIW, I’m happy with my shifting but I easily believe a cable shifter is better if not a more complicated and expensive solution.
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JB did a cable shift so he can tell you all about it. There are also plans on the group.io list as well as here: http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/index.htm
FWIW, I’m happy with my shifting but I easily believe a cable shifter is better if not a more complicated and expensive solution.
Ah my mistake I thought you were on cable too
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No, I used the shift linkage kit that came with my NG3 from Richard.
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I figured it was time for an update on the goings on over here. Like others on this form I am also working on a front and rear disc set up.
Fixed aluminum calipers are the only type I considered for this undertaking. A fixed rear with integral parking brake is the jewel in this crown, but it is flawed at best at the moment. The Wilwood Powerlite radially mounted 4 piston caliper seems to be the best choice from their line. It weighs just under 3 lb. Running 1.38" in the front and 1.00" in the rear yields a very similar piston area to the AR/NR of the 47. I am going to do a dual master set up.
My approach to the front was to repurpose the factory solid rotor. I have successfully milled the center away so that it can accept a 2 piece style aluminum hat. I am waiting on my fixed and floating hardware to come in from AP. The hat proved to be about 20% weight savings over the standard rotor. I plan to test this set up with a standard hub first so that I don't introduce too many variables at once. The next step will be to machine an alloy hub with an integral flange to accept the new rotor disc with floating hardware only. This will remove the need for 4 bolts and the associated material in the hub. I am also going to do a front bearing race spacer as I have read good things about it on here. It should be straightforward to mount a ventilated rotor to this hub as well if that is deemed necessary. Other improvements I am exploring on the front end include an aluminum steering arms for the upright & lightweight dust shields to help trim unsprung mass.
As we all know the rear is the problem child....
I have sourced Wilwood powerlite calipers with cable operated parking brake levers that actuate the pads. Wilwood developed them for miata people so everything seemed promising. I have read that some people had trouble passing MOT with the reduced hand brake capacity on incline, but these are the closest I have found to fixed calipers with integral p brake so I took a gamble. (Hi-spec also make a similar caliper, but Wilwood was much easier to deal with for me being in USA) The problem I have found is that the arms are too long to fit in the 13" TCS Wheel (Steel wheel is no better). I experimented by making a hat as deep as possible so the rotor has almost no clearance from the trailing arm. This is a very extreme proposition because it even removes the possibility of using a bracket to mount the caliper on the outboard side of the trailing arm. It is still not enough. Even with .375" of wheel spacers it still would not clear. The next step for me is to manufacture a new arm with a ball end receiver for the outer pincer which has a lower profile instead of the tall hook mount. I think I have a design that would not compromise too much on the clamping force of the lever.
This has led me down another tangent. I reverse engineered the rear upright to machine it from solid initially because of the intermittent quality of the castings. This exploit is best described by the expression that everything becomes a nail once you have a hammer... Once you consider making them this way it is easy to add extra mounts to it. I am exploring the idea of having an integral caliper mount or at the very least a modular mount for a caliper bracket. I would also add a clevis on the inboard side to allow the use of an upper link like Richard Mann has demonstrated for us. These changes would allow me to run CV axles and space the caliper as far out as is possible to clear potential problems with the 13" rim.
The 3rd option is to ditch the integral parking brake and fit 2 calipers. Standard powerlite fits easily without the arms. I don't really like this solution because it adds mass and cost that seem avoidable. Wilwoods MC4 parking brake weighs more than their 4 piston powerlite caliper....
With all that said...the smartest thing to do would be to run 14" or even 15" wheels. I have seen forged 15" wheels which weigh less than the alloy TCS rims. It would open the door for better tire selection as well. Miata guys use these exact calipers in 14" wheels so I imagine it could work for us too.
What do you guys think? I am convinced this is the Europa equivalent of the search for the holy grail and that my face will be melted off very soon for drinking from the wrong cup :)
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Wow! Hugely impressed with your efforts here, and watching with much interest. I have yet to begin searching for parts in earnest, but a complete brake upgrade is on my list of things I wish to accomplish, so have been keeping a keen eye on similar projects undertaken on this forum.
Like you, I'm only interested in fixed calipers. I also want ventilated rotors in the front, and I really want to keep 13" wheels. It is seemingly a tall order, but I'm convinced it's not impossible. You have delved much deeper into re-engineering than I had hoped to go, and perhaps that's what it takes to get this done. I am excited that you found a rear fixed caliper with parking brake, though perhaps it won't quite work with the 13" wheel.
There is a ventilated rotor option available, but as you know it uses a floating caliper. Once I dig deeper into a search I'm hoping to find a fixed caliper that can be made to work with it, in a 13" wheel. I realise that I may have to concede the fixed caliper in the rear, and indeed a disc with floating caliper is better than the existing drum, but your efforts with the fixed caliper have caught my interest.
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Wow! That's some impressive development work! It should work great when you're done.
As for my input, I would go to 15" wheels. You have more tire options (and your options should probably continue longer as I suspect support will start at the smaller diameter tires. If you're using the stock speedo setup, 50 series 15" tires have the same diameter as the 70 series 13" tires. Since it looks like you're going the NG3 route, that's not an advantage in which case, I would still go with the 15" wheels and use an electronic or GPS driver for your speedo.
As for the rear upright, I have no idea the cost or complications of casting your own but I wonder if fabricating your own might be easier, cheaper, and/or more adaptable.
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Wow! Hugely impressed with your efforts here, and watching with much interest. I have yet to begin searching for parts in earnest, but a complete brake upgrade is on my list of things I wish to accomplish, so have been keeping a keen eye on similar projects undertaken on this forum.
Like you, I'm only interested in fixed calipers. I also want ventilated rotors in the front, and I really want to keep 13" wheels. It is seemingly a tall order, but I'm convinced it's not impossible. You have delved much deeper into re-engineering than I had hoped to go, and perhaps that's what it takes to get this done. I am excited that you found a rear fixed caliper with parking brake, though perhaps it won't quite work with the 13" wheel.
There is a ventilated rotor option available, but as you know it uses a floating caliper. Once I dig deeper into a search I'm hoping to find a fixed caliper that can be made to work with it, in a 13" wheel. I realise that I may have to concede the fixed caliper in the rear, and indeed a disc with floating caliper is better than the existing drum, but your efforts with the fixed caliper have caught my interest.
Thank you!! Yes ventilated rotors in the front should be no problem. Wilwood offer the powerlite caliper in 2 rotor widths, .5 and .86. The only difference would be in the bracket offset so either could be run at the front. The .5 will work with our .375 solid rotors so I went this way first. The ventillated rotors could be made to float as well.
https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-8724%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&appid=0 (https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-8724%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&appid=0)
https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-8727%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&appid=0 (https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-8727%20%20%20%20%20%20%20&appid=0)
I am hopeful that my new lower profile parking brake arm will work with the 13" wheel. I purchased some longer 2" wheel studs in case I need to use spacers, but I am trying to avoid them if at all possible. The standard powerlite without the pbrake fits just fine in the rear so there is always a plan b available. The issue is finding the best parking brake caliper for the job. Hispec have a very lightweight small unit that could fit.
http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk//svaspot.html (http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk//svaspot.html)
They also have this which could be an option for an integral set up.
http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk//svabillet.html (http://www.hispeccalipers.co.uk//svabillet.html)
Any UK guys on here that run their calipers??
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Wow! That's some impressive development work! It should work great when you're done.
As for my input, I would go to 15" wheels. You have more tire options (and your options should probably continue longer as I suspect support will start at the smaller diameter tires. If you're using the stock speedo setup, 50 series 15" tires have the same diameter as the 70 series 13" tires. Since it looks like you're going the NG3 route, that's not an advantage in which case, I would still go with the 15" wheels and use an electronic or GPS driver for your speedo.
As for the rear upright, I have no idea the cost or complications of casting your own but I wonder if fabricating your own might be easier, cheaper, and/or more adaptable.
Thanks BDA! I would machine the rear upright from a solid block since I have the equipment to do it that way. I am on the verge of being able to cast things though....
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Doing your own castings is pretty cool! I guess I over estimated the difficulty of doing sand casting but then I remember Britten cast (and heat treated) engine parts in his garage. This should not be interpreted as something I'd trust myself with though! I hope you'll tell us how you do it when you get there!
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Doing your own castings is pretty cool! I guess I over estimated the difficulty of doing sand casting but then I remember Britten cast (and heat treated) engine parts in his garage. This should not be interpreted as something I'd trust myself with though! I hope you'll tell us how you do it when you get there!
That clip of him heat treating the crankcase with swimming pool water is stuck in my mind forever. I have wanted to try it for years...I will let you know how it goes!
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If you want a fairly simple solution for the front, there are kits available. They are marketed for caterhams, but work on our cars (they use the same upright).
I have their solid Powerlite kit (BK23M), but they also have a vented kit, that should fit under a 13" wheel.
https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=562_563_565&products_id=3914
This is their vented kit. Needs a small mod on the hub.
I have this kit:
https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=562_563_565&products_id=10509
But I haven't installed it yet, will try to do that in the upcoming week.
Serge
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Happy new year! Will 2021 be the year I finally get this running?? If the preceding years have taught me anything the answer is...NO! We will carry on regardless!
I am progressing with my dual master set up. I had originally ordered the 74 (longer master) after reading a MC replacement guide years ago. Now that I am fixed on a dual set up, their newer style units are more accommodating. The 75 and 76 pictured are the same stroke as 74, but are much more compact. Seems like everything will fit ok. It will have remote bias adjustment from the dash.
I have also made a dent in the foundry project. I built a little cart to hold everything and made a swiveling lid for the top. I began the cure last week and got it to 600C before it got too late to continue. Once everything is finished up I will take her to 1000C...Casting supplies are being ordered as I write this :) The cnc machine will be put to use as an oversize router for pattern milling...
I mated the zetec engine to the 352 and have it positioned where I believe it should sit in order to fab up some steel mounts. This way I can take sound measurements of the mount to the chassis for rev 2...
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Great stuff, Chuck! :beerchug:
Did you build a swimming pool to quench your castings? ;)
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No budget for a swimming pool...I'm afraid I will have to resort to spitting on them
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Any issues mating Zetec to 352 transaxle?
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Any issues mating Zetec to 352 transaxle?
Not currently, but I just have it mocked up with my TC bellhousing. I need to source the correct dowel pins. I haven't mounted the flywheel assembly to the motor which still has its flexplate. Matching the clutch splines will be a problem, but I don't think it is too much trouble to have a compatible center riveted to the ford clutch. Maybe it would be worth searching for an off the shelf clutch disc that will fit. The OEM flywheel weighs a ton...Beyond the other standard zetec problems of the thermostat housing hitting the alternator bracket it looks to be pretty straight forward. Once I get the cad files drawn for the motor mounts I will share that on my zetec thread.
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Unless you have to get vehicle inspections do you need a parking brake? I did Wilwood 4 pot Dynalites all round. Haven't had a parking brake in 20 years. Just leave it in gear and avoid really steep hills to park. Think about 1.75" pistons front, 1.375" rear. With balance bar it really gives effective braking.
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Swift,
Personally I could get away with running no P brake. I agree it would not be much of an issue. The parking brake on my M3 is about as strong as the grip of an elderly woman with damp hands. (It probably needs to be adjusted) I throw it in gear and go on. With dual masters the likelihood of a complete brake failure is pretty slim.
Here in Texas I had my old 66 pickup pass safety inspection with doors that were inoperable. They seized shut immediately after I bought it for some reason... The inspector had to crawl in through the window and he died laughing about it... What do you think MOT would say about doors that couldn't open?
I am chasing the P brake fixed rear caliper problem because it seems like such a complete design if it can be done... It's the Icarus mentality coming out... When I saw that Wilwood integrated caliper I had to get one to try...Now I am making my own shorter p-brake arms for it...and this is why I won't have a running car til 2025 :)
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Great progress, Chuck. Some proper alchemy there. Exciting stuff.
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For the clutch disc, there's a Peugeot V6 disc that is the correct diameter and spline count, but trying to find one in NA is next to impossible. I ended up using an Escort ZX2 flywheel, pressure plate and bearing, which is closer in size to the Fuego disc, but there's still about a 1/8" of the disc that overhangs the flywheel center depression.
I had chatted with a local clutch guru about swapping the Renault center into the Ford disc but for some reason it was a no go. He suggested a mating Toyota discs as the small spline Toyota clutches supposedly have a spline count that matches the Renault input shaft, and the larger discs can be made to work with the small spline hub. But, don't quote me on this, I never did pick up the Toyota bits to compare.
Another option would be to get an older Escort flywheel and redrill for the Renault clutch, but the Escort flywheel lacks the 36-1 notches on the backside.
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A Peugeot V6 clutch disc might be the same as used in the Alpine 310/6. Meca-Parts has them.
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John,
That most likely is the one. I remembered later that skoolsen posted on my build log about the disc:
Hi
I used a clutch disc from a peugeot 605 v6 24v 240mm, this fits the ng3 box and Focus Zetec flywheel/pressure plate.
I did a search in Sachs online catalog and found this among others to have the same spline as The ng3 box.
Magnar
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Thanks guys! I will look in to the Peugeot clutch.
Roddy now that you mention the Toyota clutch splines matching I recall reading about that. I have a friend who is building an AW11 MK1 MR2 so I may ask to borrow his clutch and fidanza lightweight flywheel to see what I can learn from them...
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I started working with the thermostat relocation. I think I will try machining this housing and welding an aluminum tube to a flange for the thermostat. I am going to switch to aluminum tubes through the chassis in place of the steel. Hopefully the bending goes well.
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I've decided to route the cooling along the intake side instead of the conventional under exhaust path like burton does. I think that is more for Zetec elan conversions anyway to rout the thermostat to a place near the front like the TC has.
I am also getting closer to making a starter adapter plate that should use the zetec MT starter with no modifications to starter or bellhousing. I am currently modifying the flywheel to accept the Renault pressure plate and I'm also milling some of the mass from the heavy ford flywheel. I just got a 6mm reamer so I can bore the holes out for the locating pins. I decided to keep the stock flywheel for now to use the crank position sensor. I may be delusional about running the stock ECU but I think it will save time this way. I might have to revert to the stock intake over my throttle bodies for now...
I have the aluminum coolant tubes bent up. I still need to bead roll the tips.
On the brake side I test fitted my bracket and it seems to be a go! I will get the mirror side made and then its on to the rear!
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More cool stuff, Chuck! Did you consider an aluminum flywheel with a crank position sensor? Knowing nothing about that, I would have thought it would be available.
I can certainly understand the attraction to fuel injection but Webers have a certain cache. :)
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Thanks BDA
More cool stuff, Chuck! Did you consider an aluminum flywheel with a crank position sensor? Knowing nothing about that, I would have thought it would be available.
I can certainly understand the attraction to fuel injection but Webers have a certain cache. :)
I did and I have... :) It sounds silly to do all this work for a temporary solution but the Zetec is not actually a long term resident in this car...
The problem with the OEM crank position sensor is that it is hall effect and needs a ferrous material to trigger it. I could adapt to crank wheel or some other trigger mechanism but that almost immediately puts me in aftermarket ECU territory. I think the same is true of my throttle bodies for now...Is it too late to say I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel on this engine?... He says as buys a block of aluminum on ebay and he still contemplates milling a thermostat housing to avoid cutting a 5 minute notch in the TC bellhousing....
The list is still quite long, but I'm afraid I wouldn't save that much time or money switching to carbs if I can get the ford ECU to kick this thing over.
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He says as buys a block of aluminum on ebay and he still contemplates milling a thermostat housing to avoid cutting a 5 minute notch in the TC bellhousing....
Something like this:
(https://i.ibb.co/P5qvG1t/Tstat-Housing-and-Heater-Take-off.jpg)
I took a piece of 1/2" ally, bored it out and spot faced it for a "normal" t/stat from an MGB/TR6/Lotus etc, then used a triumph t/stat housing and welded on a bung for a heater take off. I wish I had done this when building the Europa as it would have saved some of the alternator mount if anyone wanted to mount one there. This set up is going in the B GT I picked up last summer, which is turning out to be more work than expected.
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Precisely!!
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I have the aluminum coolant tubes bent up. I still need to bead roll the tips.
Interested in how you did this, Chuck.
Just anneal the tube, fill with sand and bend? . . or?
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I have the aluminum coolant tubes bent up. I still need to bead roll the tips.
Interested in how you did this, Chuck.
Just anneal the tube, fill with sand and bend? . . or?
I have access to a hydraulic tubing bender...handy tool. It's at the place where I keep my machine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iayHcLOM9lQ
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Looking good, Chuck.
How important are the beads? I notice the steel pipes do not have them. Are they necessary, or is it merely seen as the 'right way' to do it?
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The transfer tubes fit snuggly in the grommets that are put in the frame so they don't rattle, thus no beads. It might be possible to install beaded tubes if you could install the grommets into the frame while the tubes are in place. Keep in mind that you'd also have to take the grommets out of the frame before you took the tubes out (hopefully an EXTREMELY RARE occurrence! ;D ).
I would never say it doesn't happen, and knowing my ability to screw things up it would happen to me, but I've never heard of a hose coming off one of the transfer tubes.
It sounds like a good idea but IMHO, it's not worth it.
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Beading on the end of coolant pipes is important. It's just not possible on the Europa. I put three pop rivets around each end. Works to hold the hose on and are easily removed when you need to remove the tubes.
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I wonder if I could braze a little ring on. Probably more pain than its worth.
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I wonder if I could braze a little ring on. Probably more pain than its worth.
Personally I wouldn't over-think it.
Take a step back and remember that the Europa has managed to cope since 1966 without a bead on the two main transfer pipes and leakage with the standard coolant and hoses doesn't seem to have been a problem.
Brian
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Thanks, Chuck.
Have thought long and hard about ally tubes and not sure I'd be happy installing them using the stock grommet set up given the chafing potential.
I'm thinking it might be prudent to enlarge the chassis holes and use larger/thicker grommets. Have to think about where the handbrake horse shoe runs as well.
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I wonder if I could braze a little ring on. Probably more pain than its worth.
Personally I wouldn't over-think it.
Take a step back and remember that the Europa has managed to cope since 1966 without a bead on the two main transfer pipes and leakage with the standard coolant and hoses doesn't seem to have been a problem.
Brian
Wise advice
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Because I'm always pulling myself in different directions something has to suffer and lately that is the frequency of updates on here!!
I could wait til another date and show you guys the finished product, but instead I will share more disjointed progress straight from the hands of the madness that wrought it. The final pic is of the two pieces yet to be joined.
I tried bagging this part in two set ups because I was worried about bridging. I still had some in the lower panel around the bosses... I think my bag technique is steadily improving though.
I bolted the molds together and joined these two parts this evening. We will all see together if this was a success or not. If it is then I plan to do the same process on the rear deck lid. If not then back to the drawing board....
The real challenge of bagging this spoiler is the acute angle which makes layup difficult for the aesthetic top layer if you were to try it in one shot. The rear decklid has similar challenges with the C channel that makes up the support structure along the edges... Why do I torture myself so??
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That looks like nice work, Chuck! I’m anxious to see how the rear deck lid comes out!
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Nicely done.
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I am getting very excited now....The top skin weighs around 1.2 kg before trimming. I think it will be about 2kg with side structure and some minor additional support. I may need to do a honeycomb core and second skin if the center is too flexible. I have a feeling honeycomb will make it stiff enough to stand on....
I have not weighed my plug panel but after all the bondo required to get the fit right it heavy now... If anyone has a factory panel laying around I would be curious to know its weight. My S1 panels are considerably more robust than the TC version I used as a plug. I am planning to mold my S1 panels in the future because I only have one complete set at the moment. I threw the carbon panel on an S1 because it was the only car near by. I am going to make a few for some people so we will see how much better I get at laying the fabric.
I am going to order some spread tow Textreme fabric because it has some interesting properties for large flat panels. Plus it looks cool!
https://www.textreme.com/what-we-do/spread-tow-products/090-woven-fabrics/ (https://www.textreme.com/what-we-do/spread-tow-products/090-woven-fabrics/)
Now to lay up the underside and bond them!
The last three pics are the splitter after I bonded the two pieces together. It is about 1/3 the weight of my factory piece, but again I'm not sure how much bondo I added to stiffen it for a plug.
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Chuck,
I just weighed the one off my TCS. It weighed 13.3lbs with one screen missing out of it.
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Thanks Turbo!
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Chuck , sorry for the delay. i wanted to get the front bonnet weighed in before answering.
The body panels look amazing, seriously, great work.
My bonnet weighed in at 12lbs-14oz with all the primer and paint. lol however the lock mechanism is off so i can re-paint panel
dakazman
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My hood/bonnet weighed 11.5lbs...
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I laminated a second top skin and tried using slightly thicker uni. It came out slightly heavier but much stiffer.... I also ordered some nomex honeycomb to experiment with bonding skins in a sandwich arrangement. I am still working on getting a decent lay up of the support structure. The results so far are promising.....
My friend who used to work in a composite aerospace shop let me have some textreme to play with.
Can anyone comment about the improved stability that is gained from ducting the radiator out the top of the bonnet vs in the wheel well? I have heard that this offers a significant increase in high speed stability.
I hope to have some freshly machined hubs and brake caliper brackets to show you all soon...
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Can anyone comment about the improved stability that is gained from ducting the radiator out the top of the bonnet vs in the wheel well? I have heard that this offers a significant increase in high speed stability.
It's a rumor. My radiator is front mounted and fully ducted out of the top. It does stay cool now though.
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Your car is really going to be interesting, Chuck!
I thought there was previously a discussion of reproducing the vertical "skirts" with the "turned up" ends with respect to reproducing a boot lid but I didn't find it after a short look. Are you making it so rigid so that those skirts won't be necessary and adapt an alternate method of fitting the boot to the rest of the car. For example, without having made any measurements, you might be able to raise the interior side of the rain gutter and use it to support the boot lid. Similar treatment could be used on the bonnet lid and with some rubber gasketing, you might solve the sealing problem some have there. It might actually be easier than trying to replicate the "skirt" around both lids. .
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Impressive stuff, Chuck. Many processes here that I'm unfamiliar with. Very interesting.
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Impressive stuff, Chuck. Many processes here that I'm unfamiliar with. Very interesting.
Thanks! I wish I had Serge's talent for making videos. I would love to take everyone along for that side of the journey.
Your car is really going to be interesting, Chuck!
I thought there was previously a discussion of reproducing the vertical "skirts" with the "turned up" ends with respect to reproducing a boot lid but I didn't find it after a short look. Are you making it so rigid so that those skirts won't be necessary and adapt an alternate method of fitting the boot to the rest of the car. For example, without having made any measurements, you might be able to raise the interior side of the rain gutter and use it to support the boot lid. Similar treatment could be used on the bonnet lid and with some rubber gasketing, you might solve the sealing problem some have there. It might actually be easier than trying to replicate the "skirt" around both lids. .
Mainly I did this to get experience laying up a large 2 piece carbon part. I wanted to see how much lighter it could be than my bondo laden original. The stiffness is an added bonus, but I don't think it will buy me all that much other than I may have the only Europa with a totally flat boot lid when held up with a single prop stick... The honeycomb experiment is interesting to me because I have a few ideas for its implementation on future projects.
Can anyone comment about the improved stability that is gained from ducting the radiator out the top of the bonnet vs in the wheel well? I have heard that this offers a significant increase in high speed stability.
It's a rumor. My radiator is front mounted and fully ducted out of the top. It does stay cool now though.
That is good to know. Thanks Clifton.
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Progress! I completed my first prototype rear caliper bracket. There will still be some little tweaks, but it is close! I wont know how I did with spacing until I get the aluminum hat made for the floating rotor.
This is the normal powerlite without the ears because it fits much more easily. I still need to make the shorter outboard ear to clear the wheel.
I am still waiting on some lathe tooling so it should be next week before I have the hat turned.
My photography took some inspiration from Calvin and Hobbes tonight.
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Brilliant as always Chuck. Thanks! It’s great to start the morning off with Calvin and Hobbes!
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Nice work!
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Very nice! :beerchug:
Those are some big brakes!
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Thanks guys!
I wont be sure til I get everything together, but the components of the factory TCS drum set up are just under 10lbs and I should be at just under 9.
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I finally joined the two pieces I made from the molds of the rear decklid. My goodness it is stiff! I joined them by using fabric and resin to bond the two pieces, but I will experiment with structural adhesive next time. Still Need to trim the flashing and prepare it for paint.
My original decklid fit perfectly after much bodywork, but came out to a portly 22lb. My standard S1 panel was probably close to 20 lbs, the s2 I have is closer to the 12 lbs quoted by other members here. The carbon panel is approx 6 lbs, and I can say with confidence that my engine cover, supported on one side, will not sag (much) under its own weight!! :FUNNY:
Was it worth the effort? I learned about molding body panels, and working with carbon....As long as I put this knowledge to use for a better purpose in the future...then the answer is a resounding maybe!
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That is absolutely fantastic, Chuck. I am impressed. So... how much weight do you think you could pare off of an entire body shell? :o
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The thought had crossed my mind...I think the answer depends on how crazy you want to be. Most likely you could remove anywhere from 1/2 to 2/3 of the weight of the shell and still have an appreciably stiffer car. My gut instinct is 100lbs-150lbs of savings. There was an Italian guy on here several years ago who was talking about making a carbon bodied S1/47, but he did not ever post any claimed weights or price, and was looking for 10 interested buyers. I have seen pictures of a carbon bodied car from the Japanese outfit Body Shop Happy, but I am not sure if they just skinned a car, or truly did a 100% body drawn under vacuum.
If one was going to attempt something so bold, I would argue that it should be attempted as a full carbon monocoque so that you could truly take advantage of the material.
https://www.gt40s.com/threads/carbon-gt-mono.24086/ (https://www.gt40s.com/threads/carbon-gt-mono.24086/)
This guy is a total lunatic and he made a carbon GT40 from scratch. His day job is fabricating racing airplanes, so he had a good starting point.
Another guy who is a source of inspiration for my attempt at the panels is Mike Patey. He makes his own airplanes and does some very serious carbon work.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSvdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSvdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg)
If you redesigned the underside of the car to maximally increase stiffness, and also incorporate the suspension pick ups in to the body I would guess you could easily save 200 lbs on the total weight of the car. But my god what a mammoth undertaking that would be.... I think doing a Mk14 out of the stuff would be a more fitting tribute to the worlds first composite monocoque car.
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I used the labor day weekend to get in the holiday spirit and work away on my rear disc conversion!
This is the first prototype in the works. I take an OEM front rotor and face the hat section off. Then I put it in the mill to relieve it and cut square holes for the AP Racing floating bobbins. The bobbins may not make it in the final design because I need every bit of space for clearance back there... I am working on a rigid mount concurrently which uses the same AP fasteners. I then turn a hat out of a 6" slug. It then goes to the mill for lightening and drilling the holes for the hardware and lug bolts. I made a fixture to machine windows radially in the hat so that the bolts are held on with AP's nuts instead of threading them in to the aluminum hat. Some toolpaths need to be tweaked for height and finish, but that is all part of it...I will probably make a few of these before I ever get one on a car... I thought about naming my company "Goldilocks engineering...We get it right eventually"
The rear caliper bracket needs to come down a bit to fit inside the 13" steel wheel. The alloy has a bit more space, but I would like this set up to work across models. I have not experimented with the parking brake arms yet, but I will start machining my special short arms soon.
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Wow! I just love the thinking and skills required. I stand in awe. "Goldilocks Engineering " Bear with us, it usually takes 3 tries.
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Wow! I just love the thinking and skills required. I stand in awe. "Goldilocks Engineering " Bear with us, it usually takes 3 tries.
Thanks Sandy! Once it all gets rolling I will make a vid to show the process more in depth.
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Shooting for paint next week.... wish me luck! I'm going to rip out all the plastic and put new instead of just doing a new floor and walls. Looking back I think that was my fatal flaw last time around. I forgot that the ceiling had been exposed to the wax from the mold.
Carbon came out pretty well! I need to clean up the seams and it should be good to go!
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Excellent, Chuck! What did you do for the bottom edge of the engine cover?
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Excellent, Chuck! What did you do for the bottom edge of the engine cover?
Its also carbon. I made a two piece mold, Vacuum bagged each piece separately, then trimmed the pieces and put both in the mold to join them back together. I need to fill in the seam line with a little bit of thickened epoxy colored black.
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I am set for a weekend with destiny.... There is no margin for error because rain is coming on Tuesday and I need to do
Fri- Finish taping - sealer/base
Sat- Clear
Sun- wetsand and gold leaf
Monday - Clear
Nothing like a little pressure to get the ball rolling :)
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Pressure tends to move things quicker......good luck this weekend!
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I hope you’re reading this on Monday after you’ve successfully gotten through your clear coat!
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Rain with compressors and paint. Hurry. I ran a big container with desiccant balls for moisture control. Seeing your work, I'm sure you got it covered. The few times I have painted, it's been a lot of stress. Looking forward to your finished pics.
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Bah! I'm having the same fish eye issues on the test cards. I dare not spray the car yet...
Contaminants seem to be in the line....
My set up is
80 gal 2 stage delta compressor
refrigerated dryer
oil separator
new air hose
water oil trap
new air hose
regulator
ball filter
gun
I didn't have any trouble spraying the lacquer on the furniture. I never had problems when I painted the BMW or my friends Nissan. The air hose and oil trap are brand new...from harbor frieght...maybe I need to try a more quality line?
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Wow, you are set up. Do you run a little orange filter just before the gun? I have in the past but didn't thins time. It sounds like you have much more experience just based on your dryer but it doesn't hurt to ask. Do you wipe with a grease and wax remover or use reducer? A friend was a body paint guy and gave me a lot of tips prior to my first spray. Wipe, flip, wipe and toss, has do be very clean and lightly tack right before. I used white bounty paper towels and wiped the whole car a few times. It was drilled that it will ruin paint if there was any oils. I never touched the car during all the body work without nitrile gloves either.
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My final approach is a similar practice. Wipe down with W&G in stages until there is no residue, let it dry 30 min. Light tack and spray. I have also run the ball filter in the past, I was talked out of it by my paint reps. To eliminate variables I put my paint in an aerosol container and it came out just fine.
When I painted the truck I used desiccant and a filter and it worked fine.
When I painted the BMW I used a different drier which is now on my machines. I had no issues
I picked up this little drier second hand and it may be the issue. The problem is that I think it contaminated the lines too. I will pick up new lines and some filters tomorrow and try it out again...
On the plus side I am exactly where I wish I had been this morning in terms of set up. Car is taped up, staged, and ready to go. Wax and grease, light tack and then its time to spray.
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To test the simplest elimination of variables I removed the drier and the harbor freight stuff....first test card came out much better.... (boy will I feel silly if that was the problem) Tractor supply and Northern Tool sell this stuff called "Flexzilla" that came recommended. Its not much more than the HF stuff and its made in the USA. I think my days of frequenting the harbor are over...I will let you guys know how it goes.
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My grand ambitions fell short, but I got sealer and base down this weekend. Clear happens tomorrow.
The problem seemed to be the harbor freight hose....
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That looks really good, Chuck!
There are definitely things at Harbor Freight to stay away from!
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8)
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3 Coats of clear down. I goofed and sprayed the first two coats with the fluid needle dialed too far out...I got out of order and forgot to re set it after cleaning the gun... I ended up with more orange peel than usual, but I was able to salvage most of it on the 3rd coat. It all gets blocked down in preparation for the gold leaf and subsequent clear, so not too big a deal over all.
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Another black beauty! :beerchug:
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That looks very good. I like the white edge highlights. It looks like a manga-Europa :)
How much space do you have around the car for spraying? The booth I built has a couple of areas only 2-3 feet from the car. So I'm a bit worried about moving around.
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Thanks guys.
Kendo,
My area is about 12' wide and 30' long approximately
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Well, I'm officially jealous :) I have about 11' x 16'. At least I won't get lost in there.
I look forward to seeing parts get put on the car. Reward for all the prep work.
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Thanks!
This is definitely a cherry picked shot as most of the panels have some peel...but I didn't get it all wrong!
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That pic is pretty impressive, even if it's cherry picked. It doesn't look like you will have much sanding.
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Wet sanding is progressing well. I should be done this evening. I'll get the car back in the booth and get the doors fitted to line everything up for the stripes. I am going to get some help from a friend to vinyl cut some stencils for me so I can gold leaf the text on the rear decklid instead of using the badges. I was playing with the idea of having the "John Player Special" script along the side of the car with the 1/2 union jack as it appears on the type 79. I would paint the flag on and do the script in gold leaf, but I can always add that later if I decide its missing something.... I'm also looking at slight modifications to the stripes. I think it looks slightly better to have the stripes at the rear stop on the side instead of turning the corner. Still a few more days to think on it...Does anyone have any interesting pictures or ideas for me to ponder?
I got the carbon fiber rear fitted. I haven't decided what to do with it yet... I was hoping it would hide a bit better against the black but it turned out to be very grey. I will most likely paint the top of the lid and leave the sides exposed. That way nobody will know unless they look at the engine and catch a glimpse of the sides. I am still planning to do the S1 doors and I would leave them in a similar finish. Painted outside, carbon inside.
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Just an idle thought but I wonder if the carbon weave would eventually 'print through' the final paint like fibreglass woven cloth does.
This might be more a feature of Polyester resin. Does epoxy resin shrink to it's final form in a shortish time?
I really have no idea.
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Epoxy resins shrink less than polyester in general and are more stable after initial cure. Polyester resin loses styrene as it cures and so it loses volume. It also continues to cure, and shrink, over a relatively long period of time (but how long - weeks, months, years?). There are different figures quoted, but polyester resin shrinkage may be between 5% and 7% by volume, as compared to 2% or less for epoxy resins.
Some opinions here
https://www.researchgate.net/post/Epoxy_vs_Polyester_resin_against_volumetric_shrinkage_during_curing_process
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Chuck,
Maybe just paint the rear of it so you can't really tell from behind until you walk up to it....
shame to hide all that hard work! Looking great :beerchug:
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Just an idle thought but I wonder if the carbon weave would eventually 'print through' the final paint like fibreglass woven cloth does.
This might be more a feature of Polyester resin. Does epoxy resin shrink to it's final form in a shortish time?
I really have no idea.
I'm not sure. I honestly wouldn't mind a bit of weave print through as it would look like an old F40... They say that you can tell if one of those has been wrecked because you wont see the weave after primer is sprayed on it during a fix.
Thanks for the kind words guys! The nice thing about having the mold is that I can make another to leave clear :) I already have ideas on how to improve the bond between the two sides. I bought several different types of carbon to experiment with and some might come out darker than others. Also I haven't seen it in the sun yet and that will really make the final decision.
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Epoxy resins shrink less than polyester in general and are more stable after initial cure. Polyester resin loses styrene as it cures and so it loses volume. It also continues to cure, and shrink, over a relatively long period of time (but how long - weeks, months, years?). There are different figures quoted, but polyester resin shrinkage may be between 5% and 7% by volume, as compared to 2% or less for epoxy resins.
Some opinions here
https://www.researchgate.net/post/Epoxy_vs_Polyester_resin_against_volumetric_shrinkage_during_curing_process
Interesting answers on that link, Gideon.
But can they be right?
I could believe small percentage shrinkage for either resin, but 5% or 7% sounds implausible. At those rates, parts would literally fall out of a mould and a Europa body would end up roughly 6 inches shorter than the mould!
There's one guy who sounds like he might be closer to my (imaginary) understanding:
Are we talking here about epoxy and polyester without additives like fillers etc.?
If that's the case then there isn't such a big difference between them. Polyester shrinks a bit more (1%) compared to epoxy (up to 0,9%).
Shrinkage also depends on the process (injection, transfer molding ...).
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The shrinkage figures are for volume - 5% shrinkage by volume is about 1.6% linearly, or 2.5 inches over the length of a Europa. But that figure applies to just resin by itself. Where the resin is supported by fibers it won't be able to shrink so much - except maybe in thickness. Coming back to Chuck's engine cover, there should be less print through than if it were made with polyester, but either way the fiber to resin ratio will have an influence on how much print through there is in the end.
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I thought I would be done with this by now... I stopped measuring time in hours and began using Rossini's "William Tell" to keep time.
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Looking good Chuck! “William Tell” is a long opera. Hopefully things will go faster soon so you can pick shorter operas… maybe “Tommy”? :)
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The way things are going it will be Wagner's ring cycle :FUNNY:
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Gold leaf is down! It looks amazing in person. Clear tomorrow!!
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She’s looking good, Chuck! Can’t wait to see her after the clear coat!
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:I-agree: Looking pretty awesome in the photos too!
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Nice!
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Terrific…love the way the gold line tapers so nicely
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One last peek before clear :)
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Here she is!
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Nice! :beerchug:
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Wow!!
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:beerchug:
Good work
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Thanks guys!! Here are some more shots after it cured.
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Good Job! Having your pin stripes painted and under the clear coat looks great and keeps a cat in your garage from pulling at the stripes with his claws - ask my how I know...
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:FUNNY: :FUNNY: :FUNNY:
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Looking good.
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:trophy:
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Looks even better in the sun (I knew it would)!!! Great work! :BEER3:
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Very shiny. You'll be giving dakazman a run for his money!
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8)
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Its getting closer! At this rate I should have a chassis on 4 wheels in the near future. :FUNNY: The main changes of the second revision of the rear bracket were twofold. Adding clearance to the bracket for the bolts of the two piece hat design, and dropping the caliper mounting height. Interestingly the S1/S2 steel wheels offer a bit more face clearance for the caliper because the mounting flange is smaller and slopes away where as the alloy has a larger diameter face which interferes with the caliper unless sufficient wheel space is incorporated in the hat's thickness. I also finished the Zetec thermostat housing which nicely clears the TC bellhousing.
Up next on my list is
Adapter for Zetec MT starter to TC bellhousing
Modifying Zetec flywheel to accept Renault fuego clutch pressure plate
Cable shift mechanism - on this project I am going to attempt to use the original gear lever and housing with a new machined assembly that uses spherical joints to articulate the cables, and bolts cleanly inside the frame.
The special rear parking brake arms
More pictures to come!
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Really cool stuff. Chuck! I can’t wait for more pictures!
:lotus:
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Just catching up on this thread. The paint work is stunning, and nice work on the pin stripes, too. Exceptional work.
Following the brake work with interest. Cheers.
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Just catching up on this thread. The paint work is stunning, and nice work on the pin stripes, too. Exceptional work.
Following the brake work with interest. Cheers.
Thank you very much!!
Brakes are moving along. I will post some pics soon. I finished both front and rear brackets tonight, so they can officially be mounted to my car! I have finished the rear hats for TC, but I will elaborate more when I post pics. All that remains are machining a set of floating rotors, and machining my special front hubs with the integral hat.
I also whittled on my Zetec flywheel tonight to make it fit the Renault Fuego clutch I am using. I still need to chamfer, drill and tap it. I estimate about 7lbs saved once I clean up the back side.
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Nice work "Double Chuck"!
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Here are some shots of the completed brackets and rear assembly. I made a fixture to support the front bracket which gave a much better finish than my first attempt at it with the hard jaws. Regarding the spacing of everything I had to compromise slightly when it came to the TCS wheel. I had to make the hat act as a wheel spacer which increases the rear track approximately .500 per side. This was the only way I could make the wheel clear this wilwood caliper. The only change required is the use of longer rear studs to accommodate the hat. Spacing of the rotor is tight, but it fits with the non floating hardware. I should be able to shave a touch more off the bracket to accept the floating bobbins.
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Really pretty!!! :beerchug:
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That's a wicked looking set of Europa brakes!
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Thanks guys!! Wait til you see the fronts! :)
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8)
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Holy cow Chuck, :trophy:
I don't know how I missed seeing this thread earilier, :confused: I'm just now seeing your paint job. Looking great.
Then the rear brake work is amazing. Now you really peaked my interest with the fronts being even better . :beerchug:
Dakazman
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Thanks Dman! I have been working up to cutting and buffing the car. I started sanding the peel out of it this week. I need to visit your thread and see the progress.
Thermostat is almost done. Just need to drill and mount the takeoffs for the heater and sensor.
I am working on a cable operated shifter mechanism. I think it will certainly be possible to make a new bottom piece to the original shifter which accommodates a pivot on a bearing which will effectively translate the side to side motion in to forward and back. Similar to the Esprit, only with bearings to make it nice and smooth :)
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More beautifulness, Chuck!
You know this build will go a lot faster if buy parts instead of making all of them! :FUNNY:
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:pirate: too true!
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Oh that’s sweet!
I’ll send you the plans soon on the alternator mount bracket. I just don’t know where time goes.
When you nib sand start out with the worse parts , wet sand with 1500 to start , just break the high spots, they will be the scratched areas, low will be glossy. With that in mind the lows may be the lower or initial elevation of the paint . Clear or paint, do not go thru. Stop and start compounding and polish up at any point to see your progress. Go slow. Stay off edges and tape until at 3000 .
Work an area that can be resprayed to and edge or seam. Blending a full panel is a little harder to accomplish.
Now once you get close gradually go to a higher grit 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000. This will save time when compounding and polishing. No waxing!
Get aquatinted with the type of foam pads for cutting and ones for polishing.
The good areas start with 3000 and polish.
Dave
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I'm working on a way to incorporate a cable shift in to the existing gearstick. Here are my results so far. I am currently printing a new revision of the lever that will capture the spherical bearing inside a groove. I have thought about using two shafts to take up the length of the tunnel to shorten the cables as much as possible. Has anyone who runs cables noticed any stretching problems going that distance? The final product will be milled out of aluminum naturally.
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Cable off the bottom and cable off the top, nice.
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All the cable shifters I’ve seen use industrial push-pull cables. Checking the one posted on Lotus-Europa Central (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/files/Shifter.PDF), I found it used 5mm ends which translates to about 3/16”. The lightest duty Cablecraft cable will take 120# of pull.
I recommend Cablecraft cables as they are much more flexible than others - especially the more common Morse cables. Here are specs (https://www.cablecraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/CMC9008_Push-Pull-Standard-Flyer.pdf). Their main cable page may be useful too (https://www.cablecraft.com/cables/).
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Very neat, Chuck.
I might be seeing this wrongly but if the lower spherical bearing is intended to slide up/down the U shaped cut out, won't the contact points inevitably be subject to sliding wear?
From my cursory look at OEM mechanisms (Corolla, f'rinstance), the ball jointed cross-gate actuating pin always seem to be coincident with the pivot point of the gear stick bearing.
Of course, that means the ball joint has to be lower than the original Europa position.
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I had my cables custom made by a local big truck shop. Can't remember if they are 1/4" or #10-32. Rock solid and not a hint of play in 15K.
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Thanks guys!
Gavin, the style you mention does appear to be the gold standard. The Elise and Evora use a similar mechanism which has been refined in the aftermarket by a more rigid frame and more durable joints. The problem is like you mention, the translation is done by a perpendicular shaft on the main ball joint. This would be difficult to do with the standard arrangement.
I studied the esprit's shift mechanism which is pictured below. Lotus used a lateral pivoting arm (in this case above the main pivot point.) I took my inspiration from this, and decided to add a spherical joint like is common in modern cable shifters, except it is in the axis of the main shift lever.
My print just finished of the revised lateral arm which captures the joint. I will revise it a bit more before it is committed to metal, but it does feel very positive now. I think it was the angle of my photo which caused confusion. I added a pic of the lever in full side to side, and front to back. The pivot arm will need to be a bit longer to capture the bearing race on the fully back position.
I love the little delicate Europa shifter and I am trying my damnedest to keep it! That monster of a tube that was attached to it....that lives in my attic now.
The wet sanding is progressing well.... I just received a package in the mail with coolant hoses and an alternator per DA's zetec conversion. Unfortunately I may have sourced the wrong one because it looks like I will need to make or source a new pulley for the correct belt.
I also received my M8x1.25 taps and 6mm dowels to finish my Renault clutch conversion on the Zetec flywheel. I need to turn a pilot bushing extension and throw out bearing extension to finish this part of the project off! Then it will have....4 wheels!!!!
I suppose I should ask now. Does anyone out there have any strong feelings on a stand alone ECU? I am looking at the megasquirt MS3 evo.
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Chuck I am curious to see how your shifter turns out! I am also considering creating one inspired by the Esprit shifter…….I would like to leave that monster of a tube hanging on the garage wall ;)
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Can’t wait to see that paint shine 😎.
You will be amazed and proud of your work. It’s a feeling like your front doors gives you.
Dakazman
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:)
I am taking my time enjoying the final few rounds of sanding this car, still at 1500... I've just about got the orange out of this black fruit.
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She's going to be a beauty, Chuck!!
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Looking good. I really like the stripes, they look to have come out really well.
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Flywheel is officially mated to the clutch. I got it drilled, tapped, and pinned for the Renault clutch plate and disc. The indicator said I had it concentric to at least .0005" I will have it balanced as an assembly with the plate after I remove another lump of mass off the backside. For now the task is to make the TO and Pilot bearing extensions...then the wheels go on!
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Nicely done! :beerchug:
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X2 that.
Dakazman
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….just going back to your cable gear change. I have a bespoke cable system on mine and have had a breakage in the wire where the run wasn't quite straight enough right at the gearbox. As a result I always carry two spare cables just in case.
To make it an easy change, should the worst happen on a trip away from home, I have run these cables in a separate pipe for each. These pipes are then properly located and supported. This means that after disconnecting at the base of the gearstick I can just pull them. Makes it really really easy. I have used blue plastic water pipe for this. Blue isn’t ideal but it was to hand!
….well as easy as it can be with super large hands that is
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Flywheel is officially mated to the clutch. I got it drilled, tapped, and pinned for the Renault clutch plate and disc. The indicator said I had it concentric to at least .0005" I will have it balanced as an assembly with the plate after I remove another lump of mass off the backside. For now the task is to make the TO and Pilot bearing extensions...then the wheels go on!
Like your caliper mount fabrication. Why did you use a Renault pressure plate? I used the Zetec pressure plate with a larger Renault disc and it all fit no problem. Are you using an NG gearbox?
I understand the TO bearing extension, but not the pilot bearing if it is an NG. Am I missing something?
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Like your caliper mount fabrication. Why did you use a Renault pressure plate? I used the Zetec pressure plate with a larger Renault disc and it all fit no problem. Are you using an NG gearbox?
I understand the TO bearing extension, but not the pilot bearing if it is an NG. Am I missing something?
Thanks! The ID of the Zetec plate I had did not completely overlap the friction material of the Renault plate It was about 50% or so. I guess maybe I had a smaller disc? Right now I have a 352 going in the car. I do have an NG3 but it is for later. I have a second frame that will be built out with something special :)
I followed https://www.prevanders.net/europa/clutch.html
(https://www.prevanders.net/europa/clutch.html)
Granted he is not using the 352, or the clutch/flywheel I am using, but he did a good job laying out the challenges of mating a renault box to the Zetec. I really should try to dig up Dean's write up too.
The modified pilot is needed because my input shaft is 17mm and does not quite reach, nor would it fit in the ford pilot. I actually need to double check the spacing on the TO bearing. This is the first time I've had the assembly mounted on the engine and it looks like it may be within reach.
….just going back to your cable gear change. I have a bespoke cable system on mine and have had a breakage in the wire where the run wasn't quite straight enough right at the gearbox. As a result I always carry two spare cables just in case.
To make it an easy change, should the worst happen on a trip away from home, I have run these cables in a separate pipe for each. These pipes are then properly located and supported. This means that after disconnecting at the base of the gearstick I can just pull them. Makes it really really easy. I have used blue plastic water pipe for this. Blue isn’t ideal but it was to hand!
….well as easy as it can be with super large hands that is
Thanks for the tip.
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I’ll have to use this thread in the future. I found a nice ford SVT focus engine in a local salvage yard.
I got the tc bell housing ready .😂, it’s just a little project to play with further down the road.
Dakazman
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Very shiny, D'man!!! :beerchug:
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I’ll have to use this thread in the future. I found a nice ford SVT focus engine in a local salvage yard.
I got the tc bell housing ready .😂, it’s just a little project to play with further down the road.
Dakazman
Dman.... You have no idea how pertinent your post is. I purchased an SVT Focus this very evening!
My reasoning was such;
The standard Zetec manifold wont fit, so throttle bodies and standalone ECU are needed. A custom header is needed....I was practically there and lacked only to buy the ECU
Yesterday I stumbled across an SVT Focus with a bad clutch and fuel pump....then the wheels started turning. The intake manifold is different and may just fit as is... It has a tuned header which may just fit too! The ECU and existing harness can be used if this is the case. I got all of it for a very reasonable price (less than it would cost to finish my zetec swap w/ ECU) It makes 170hp out of the box, and I suspect could be flashed to run without cats to a decent performance increase.
I have not yet seen an SVT swapped europa...it actually may be slightly less painful than the standard zetec route, (or there may be a damn good reason why not). I think I can use my standard zetec flywheel and renault clutch combo in place of the dual mass SVT unit. My worst case scenario from this endeavor is that a stand alone ECU is unavoidable. MS3pro will still run the SVT engine which has higher compression and a variable intake cam, so it is really not too big of a risk...if anything I only end up with a more powerful engine.
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Chuck, my SVT find is still at the salvage yard , I wanted to go back with the bellhousing to make sure it fit first.
then reread the manual of notes I've collected . I can't wait for your version.
Right now, I have enough to keep me busy.
Dakazman
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Chuck, my SVT find is still at the salvage yard , I wanted to go back with the bellhousing to make sure it fit first.
then reread the manual of notes I've collected . I can't wait for your version.
Right now, I have enough to keep me busy.
Dakazman
Your S2 has a slightly tighter angle at the fork if I recall correctly, so it may not be exactly the same as my fitment. I hope to have some progress for you soon. If I can get this thing to clear with the stock intake and exhaust I will be a happy boy.
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Hi Chuck….so 170 and a standard ecu……what a great solution…fingers crossed for you
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The cutting has begun!
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Wow!
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Coming along...I need to move the truck out tomorrow so I can have room to do the cutting.
Does anyone have recommendations on smaller pads? I picked up some 6" foam pads and compound from Rupes. They are working well so far.
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She’s going to look amazing, Chuck! :beerchug:
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Wow…that’s amazing
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Looks fantastic! :trophy:
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I use these , 3 Inch pads but on a harbor freight angle polisher
Here is a good assortment of cutting / polishing and waxing.
No wax yet on the new paint. Polish is ok.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185016457973
The finishing work look perfect, congratulations.
I added a pic of the polisher but I found one on Amazon even cheaper.
Dakazman
Dave
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Thanks guys!
Thanks for the recommendation Dman. I got the 3" mounted to my da palm sander, but I haven't had a chance to try it yet. I'll check that out. I also picked up one of those Mother's cone shaped foam polishers.
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I am probably up to 6 passes with cutting compound to get all these little scratches out. The 2000 seem to leave after 2 passes. I should probably do 3000 and up....Seems to take at least an hour of cutting on each panel to get the last little ones out, not counting cut swirls. I haven't started the finishing polish yet, but my goodness I am a happy boy so far.
Has anyone on here had luck with clear bra? After all this work I am tempted to try and preserve the finish as long as possible.
The fuel pump for the SVT shows up this weekend so I will see if I can get it to start. I was digging through boxes in the attic and I found a spare TCS wiring harness that my friend gave me when he parted out a car...Dave McGuire you legend!
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That really looks great, Chuck!! :beerchug:
I don't personally have experience with a clear bra but a friend of mine got one on his used Honda S2000. I thought it was a good idea. You had to look closely to see it. I don't think he had enough miles on it to be able to tell how much of a difference it made though.
I don't have a lot of miles on mine since I put it on the road - not as many as I wish - but I'm not aware of any chips on the front of my car. I've done some highway driving too. I think the shape of the front of the car can make a car more susceptible and maybe the shape of the Europa helps in that regard. On the other hand, with all the time and money you've put into that paint, adding a little extra protection would probably be a worthwhile investment.
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Chuck, I looked back a few pages but didn't see it. After the sandpaper, what products are you using to bring up the shine? I haven't had much success with the Meguiar's 105/205 polishes.
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I tried the Meguiars and I had similar results.
For cutting I'm using
https://www.amazon.com/RUPES-Coarse-Performance-Cutting-Backing/dp/B08K3L5NF3/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B08K3L5NF3&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/RUPES-New-Coarse-Compound-HIGH-Performance/dp/B0878V5CKJ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1D5JWA0WRQYRC&keywords=rupes+da+compound&qid=1641573024&s=automotive&sprefix=rupes+da+compound%2Cautomotive%2C77&sr=1-3
I purchased both from my local auto paint supply store.
The polisher I have is the old harbor freight variable speed.
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers-buffers/8mm-random-orbit-6-in-da-polishersander-64528.html
Apparently they changed the design recently and it is not quite as good. After my air hose debacle I have sworn off HF as much as possible...
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Thanks Chuck. I’ve seen such glowing reports on the Meguiars products. It’s odd we don’t get them. I wonder if the cars we paint have softer paint when we polish it because we don’t have ovens to dry it. Or others are correcting paint on dealer bought cars that just has had time to really dry, even years.
Anyway, thanks for the Rupes suggestions.
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Does anyone have any pictures of a JPS car with painted window frames? I am contemplating a bodycolor or matte black for the frame just to remove some of the striking curve and blend it in to the door a bit. I have seen other colors with black frames, but not a black car.
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The SVT engine lives! The sweet little elderly lady who I bought it from was correct that the fuel pump had given up the ghost. I threw a $15 cheapo ebay ford pump in the cannister to test it in the car and it fired right up! I hadn't looked closely at the exhaust arrangement when I bought the car, but she had this thing straight piped!! It sounds great!!
Here's the latest from the cutting room floor
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You and D'man with those black mirrors! :beerchug:
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Amazing…absolutely amazing….the bugs will just slide off
Great to get the engine running….love the idea of straight through pipes
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8)
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If you and D'man park next to each other, you can make an infinite row of Europas by standing between them....
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If you and D'man park next to each other, you can make an infinite row of Europas by standing between them....
I was thinking that exact thought :))
A portal to the europa dimension
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Lol 😂, Chuck
I love the big smile on you face.
Congratulations , Job well done.
Dave / D’man / Dakazman
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Sorry for the radio silence guys. I have been busy with work and machining parts for a customer who is on a tight deadline.
I changed the fuel pump and the new engine fired right up. This is when I realized the PO had removed the mufflers and it was on straight pipes. She was 60 years young bless her. Check out how smoked the clutch was!!!!
I got the SVT Engine out today, mated it to the 352, and lined it up in the frame.
The Good news.
The intake and exhaust appear to clear. I have it sitting about 9" high in the pictures, but everything should fit. This means I should be able to use the factory wiring harness. The standard Zetec flywheel I modified fits on the crank so no surprises there either. SVT was a dual mass from stock.
The Bad news
The oil filter and oil cooler lines need to be relocated. My zetec motor mounts bolt up, but the exhaust side needs more considerations. The oil pan is different from the standard zetec and is seriously in the way now. Faced with this I am thinking about casting my own bellhousing that will eliminate the need to do any kind of starter modifications, temp housing mods, throw out bearing extensions, or other nonsense. I will try to make it work with all zetec engines and mate to the Renault box hopefully up to NG series.
Since I made a little foundry over a year ago and have not yet found a compelling reason to use it I think this is a sign to fire it up!
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I did not realize the starter was such an issue…..I would think a new bell housing to over come such obstacles
would be great!
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The oil pan looks like a "blacktop" oil pan, just carve that ear off the pan, it's not connected to anything when using the TC bellhousing.
I did it for my Europa and welded on another bushing (or two, I can't recall at the moment) for the starter (and pay no attention to the massive hole just behind the starter flange):
(https://i.ibb.co/fk7nMht/Zetec-Starter.jpg)
On my B GT project I removed the opposite side:
(https://i.ibb.co/GVZHmNV/Engine-out-again.jpg)
But, a dedicated bellhousing does sound like a fun project. Would you do lost foam casting or make dedicated casting patterns?
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That clears things up, thanks for the pic Roddy!
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Wow , watching closely 😲
It looks like you threw the kitchen sink and everything else at it , To get her done , boy.
Dakazman
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Exciting stuff. I'm keen to observe your progress on casting the new bell housing.
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Thanks guys,
Right now I am thinking about trying a dedicated pattern, either 3d printed or machined from high density urethane tooling board. I am leaning toward machined because my 3d printer can not handle the full capacity in a single shot.
Like most things with this project this is certainly not the fastest or most effective way to do it. It is more of an exercise in developing a new skill which will be useful for future endeavors.
Roddy were you able to pick up any of the bottom bolts on the bellhousing?
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None of the bottom bolts lined up. From what I recall the holes in the bellhousing at the bottom were for a dust shield. If you were to cast a new bellhousing it would be neat for the oil pan bolts to line up, but if you end up swapping the oil pan for a Raceline, Retroford or Neil Dunne pan, then the extra holes disappear. I think it was only the blacktop and SVT that had them, I seem to remember the Silvertop didn't have them.
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I finally got around to curing my foundry. I took inspiration from Grunblau on youtube to make a keg foundry https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pavhCwqUnc&t=6s
It got up to 900 C today...so hopefully I will have some patterns ready soon! It sounds like hellfire when it is going!
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This reminds me of when John Britten was casting his engine parts in the documentary about him and his bike (https://youtu.be/FjXA6E0eqao?t=125). Here is the whole documentary: https://www.nzonscreen.com/title/britten-backyard-visionary-1993.
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This reminds me of when John Britten was casting his engine parts in the documentary about him and his bike (https://youtu.be/FjXA6E0eqao?t=125). Here is the whole documentary: https://www.nzonscreen.com/title/britten-backyard-visionary-1993.
cylinder heads coming soon :)
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Make sure your swimming pool is filled! :FUNNY:
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I still need to dig my own! Would you mind coming over and helping my with diy lathe made from bicycle wheels so that I can finish turning my stone columns? :FUNNY:
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Do I get to help make your faucets? :FUNNY:
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You guys are killing me... I'm trying to stay focused and your having fun building all this cool stuff . :FUNNY:
Enjoy and be Happy.
Dakazman
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If there is no other theme to this project, let it be the gross abuse of technology to solve problems that never existed until I unnecessarily invented them.
Luckily my job has given me connections to people with some very fun toys. One of them is a good friend who makes off road racing parts. He has a very nice 3d laser scanner which I used to scan the TCS bellhousing, and the focus SVT bellhousing. Compared to my brute force approach of gage pins, calipers, a height gage, and a center probe this is already off to a flying start. I merged the two scans after capturing the bores of all the bolt holes. Yellow is the TCS, pink is the SVT. You can see which holes overlap, where the lower suspension arms need to be, etc. My plan is to source a larger 3d printer and use it to print a test piece. Once I have a working piece, I will scale up a version to allow for casting shrinkage and try my hand at sand casting....
With that said please allow 6-12 months for the Charles time scale. :beerchug:
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Nice!
It appears the bolt pattern lines up well(?)
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My my , technology sure has come along way from a draftsman table. Cad programs on steroids which these scanners. Very enticing…
Sand casting is another art I would love to experiment with. Buying a forge is on my list of to-do’s
Keep us posted
Dakazman
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The bellhousing model is progressing nicely. I am currently test printing a 1/3 scale model to make sure the draft angles work as intended. If this works I have many new casting projects that are about to spring to life...My part incorporates the suspension pickups and depth of the TCS bellhousing, while utilizing the zetec starter location and all the associated bolt holes to mount it to the engine. I have dithered back and forth about doing a sleeve for the pilot, or a bronze bush, etc. I am leaning toward extending the input shaft via interference fitting a new pilot section which will work with the ford unit. I am also looking at using a Tilton hydraulic slave.
I also managed to source the larger 3d printer I needed to make this thing come to life. Thanks very much to an amphetamine addled gentleman by way of Alexandria Louisiana's Facebook marketplace. Beauty!
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Nice work so far Chuck!
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Nice work so far Chuck!
Thanks! I still need to fine tune some radii, webs, etc, but it is getting close!
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Amazing stuff, Chuck! You could turn this into a cottage industry!
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More engineering coolness. Interesting stuff, Chuck. The compared scans of the bell housings is impressive, and much easier than getting out all of the measuring tools and doing a great deal of head scratching.
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More engineering coolness. Interesting stuff, Chuck. The compared scans of the bell housings is impressive, and much easier than getting out all of the measuring tools and doing a great deal of head scratching.
Thanks! Easier for sure. I did the caliper, gage pin, height gage approach on the suspension parts of the can am car. It was a very...iterative....process. We will see how much time it actually saves once the first full size print is done. If it is right the first time I will be amazed...but this technology is amazing so I have hope.
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It finally happened....I waited 10 long years before driving a Europa....it was everything I hoped for and so much more! I have been helping the estate of my late friend Dave McGuire who passed away last year with his old cars. A buyer for the Europa appeared this week, so I helped to get the car started this morning and took it around the block before loading it on the trailer. What a happy day.
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A happy Chuck Nukem! A pretty car! I hope it goes to a good home.
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A happy Chuck Nukem! A pretty car! I hope it goes to a good home.
I am! :) I do wish I could have bought it myself. I will try to get the new owner connected to the forum.
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Congrats, Chuck. How great will be the day when you throw your own Europa around some tight bends and a deserted country road. I'm sure this event will be inspiration for that day. Cheers.
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That smile I think is common to us all when we sit behind the wheel of our Europas….what lucky people we are
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That smile I think is common to us all when we sit behind the wheel of our Europas….what lucky people we are
X2 that . My smile was on for days also when literary madness came over .
Dakazman
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Thanks guys! It truly was a special day. I can't wait to have one on the road...so much so that I got another one....
I have kept this from you all for quite a few weeks now...a precaution so that I don't become increasingly accountable for my inevitable delays that postpone my drink from that glorious chalice. Number 6 came with a twist. I was not looking for another car....I promise! Never the less this one came on to my radar, and after talking with the previous owner the temptations began. Mike the owner was full of hilarious Europa anecdotes, his first car was a Europa! He bought it sight unseen for $500 in the early 80s through a fuzzy black and white classified ad in a specialist magazine. If that sounds cheap its because the front end had been totally smashed in. Undeterred as 19 year old men are, he flew from TX to NY one way to see the car. The owner of this beauty had mentioned over the phone that he had a replacement nose for the car. Mike said that once he saw the car he was so committed to this course that he convinced the owner to let him live at his house for a week while he saber sawed the car to pieces in his driveway and bonded the new nose on!! He drove that car back to TX!!!
He bought my newest car as a project 10 years ago to rekindle the love affair, but life got in the way...(all too familiar) We actually purchased our project cars the same month of 2013. We got to similar states in our respective restorations except that he was wise enough to leave the car as a runner....with that said I am happy to announce that I now have a RUNNING Europa! After all these years I finally learned the lesson....buy a project that someone else has done all the hard work on :)
This is where the story gets even more interesting. I mentioned that my friend with the black JPS had passed away in October of last year. Dave used to work the parts department at Sports Car World. This is where I met him shortly after buying my project. On one of my first parts purchases he took me for a ride in that black car, and that remained the only running Europa I'd ever seen let alone sat in. When I checked the vin on the knowledgebase it turns out this little car used to belong to him! Small world!!
I am looking forward to having this thing driving soon, hence my post about ordering a batch of windshields :) It only lacks a few little bits before I drop it back on four wheels and fire it off for the maiden voyage.
I've redone the interior and the dash (seats and door cards had been upholstered by PO)
Replaced bushings, motor mounts, shocks, brakes, tie rods, etc...
Currently sorting through some wiring issues.
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8) You are getting quite the collection going!
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Congratulations on finally obtaining a running car! Looking forward to your first driving report!
Then you need to get busy making parts for your next runner! :)
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Congratulations on finally obtaining a running car! Looking forward to your first driving report!
Then you need to get busy making parts for your next runner! :)
I'm on it! I have finally started the 8 day print of the bellhousing test piece with all the holes and features. If it all fits then it will be another 8 days for the pattern.
8) You are getting quite the collection going!
It's getting quite bad now...I also picked up an Eclat from Dave's estate. I'll have to write up a separate topic about this strange and wonderful thing.
He also had a 72 +2 which I am doing some work on for the family.
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The bell housing is for a Zetec, right?
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The bell housing is for a Zetec, right?
Yes that is correct. The plan is to use all the SVT Zetec mounting holes, move the starter to zetec position, change to hydraulic throw out bearing, remove the alternator bracket which fouls the zetec thermostat. The overall length and suspension pick up points are retained from the TCS bellhousing.
It is not the fast way to mate a zetec to a renault trans, but I am really looking forward to digging in to the casting process. One of the last pieces of equipment I need to make is a degassing lance which removes hydrogen porosity. Hydrogen gas is actually soluble in molten aluminum and it is common to plunge a long staff in the melt which diffuses argon through the mixture to carry impurities out of the melt. If this isn't done then pin holes occur in the finished casting when it cools...so says the books I am reading!
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Great project! Who knows, I may do that swap one day and this would be a fantastic help!
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Great project! Who knows, I may do that swap one day and this would be a fantastic help!
If it works I will be glad to make you one! I will most likely do a small batch of this particular part once I get the hang of casting it.
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Put me on the “list”… 8)
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Thanks guys! It truly was a special day. I can't wait to have one on the road...so much so that I got another one....
Congrats, Chuck. Good looking Europa.
Cool Eclat, too. I sometimes keep an eye out for one of the Elite versions (if one is going weird, one may as well pull the stops). Is the +2 yours? Nice car. I have often thought that when I get too decrepit to get in and out of my Europa, I would seek out a +2.
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Golly.... They are both beautiful. I saved the picture, :huh: So I can sit in aughh.
Dakazman
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Is it still called juggling projects if I wait over 120 days before picking up on this again? I think orbiting is a more correct verb as there is a celestial pace to all this :)
I have been busy 3d scanning stuff. Lots of fun projects in the works. Once again I turned the attention of the scanner to my motor swap. I am in the process of fine tuning the motor mounts so that they can be laser cut, bent, and welded very easily.
The bellhousing has stalled a bit as I have found any excuse not to finish the degassing set up for my foundry. I read through the last few pages of this thread and I realized I have really not done a good job conveying my goings on....Just before summer I picked up a metal clad wooden building that is essentially a glorified shanty which is serving as the new outpost for my projects. It became a project itself as I have been wiring and pluming the thing for the wave of upcoming work that is about crash against it. It is really in appalling condition so I am planning to expand with a proper metal building.... More concrete and metal building projects to come...
On the rear disc brake front I adapted my bracket to fit S1/S2. I need to machine the test pieces and fit them to my blue S2. It has been taken out of service for a while due to a leaking diff. I used this opportunity to rebuild the drivetrain which turned out be badly worn. While I was there I figured doing rear discs would be a good idea.... and now it's another non running lotus in my life!
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I have a bit of an update. I have been fighting my hobby 3d printer to make this bellhousing pattern for a while now. The Creality design works on small scale, but the 500mm cubed S5 is really pushing its limits. I have had issues with distortion, layers pulling up, etc. I might work for a one off after much frustration, but it isn't what I would call reliable. I luckily stumbled on the liquidation of a 3d printing and materials company in Houston while I was doing a tradeshow there this week. Thanks to this auction I am now the proud owner of a new industrial robot! This printer is a Creatbot D600pro which has a 600mm cubed work envelope. It has a dual extruder which is going to play a vital role in future casting projects. There is a water soluble support filament that will help form hollow cavities for the lost PLA method I intend on using to prototype aluminum castings with.
I am expecting my shipment of 9 Europa windshields from SJ on Monday, so there should be a running S2 in my life soon :) My disc brake brackets are coming along. I am working this weekend on the prototype set of front/rear for the S2 and the Elan. The TCS is waiting on the bellhousing, and then it will be a rolling chassis....How much longer???
My friend with the fiber laser has been helping me cut some plate for my motor mounts and other little projects. I put little tabs on the plates to make them easier to locate and weld up. It worked pretty well, but I need to make a welding fixture to help minimize distortion for the next set. I have a friend who has become my first patron. He is going to walk this path with me and swap a Zetec in to a TCS using the bellhousing, mounts, etc that I am doing.
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Awesome!
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Amazing stuff, Chuck! Are you planning to go into production with this stuff? Are you planning on being the US's Richard Winter?!
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Amazing stuff, Chuck! Are you planning to go into production with this stuff? Are you planning on being the US's Richard Winter?!
:) Too early to say. I got burned by customs on those windshields so I am incentivized to figure out a method of producing as much as I can in Texas....
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"...hollow cavities for the lost PLA method"
Please expand on this a little.
Are you saying that there is a type of PLA that can take the place of casting wax and runs well in 3D printers?
I have not been interested 3D to just end up with a plastic part.
But as a lost wax process master I would be very interested.
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"...hollow cavities for the lost PLA method"
Please expand on this a little.
Are you saying that there is a type of PLA that can take the place of casting wax and runs well in 3D printers?
I have not been interested 3D to just end up with a plastic part.
But as a lost wax process master I would be very interested.
Sure thing. Here is an article that someone put together about the process. https://all3dp.com/2/lost-pla-casting-guide/#:~:text=Lost%2DPLA%20casting%20takes%20the,more%20reliable%20than%20wax%20sculptures.
From my understanding you want to use a "natural PLA" without colors because they create ash during burn out apparently. Polymaker sells "Polycast" which is supposed to be very low ash. I bought natural PLA from Coex as it is less expensive. I will let you know how my bellhousing casting goes. I made a medium sized foundry out of an old keg which will heat up a salamander A25 crucible. I recently made my degassing lance to help purge all the hydrogen which tends to collect in molten aluminum. We will see how it goes! I am supposed to cast some shift forks for a guy out of bronze soon (that will be a traditional sand cast as he has a pattern).
You don't need a dual extruder like my new printer to do the lost PLA method. I need that feature to print PLA and PVA in the same print. PVA is a water soluble plastic which is used as a support and can be washed away.
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Well damn I just realized my 10 year anniversary on this forum is coming up next week!
Maybe I need to wire up the SVT engine fire up in the chassis to celebrate!!
Here are the caliper brackets in process. The small ones on the front left are the rear Elan rear caliper brackets.
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Happy Decade Anniversary (well, in a little while)!! :BEER3:
Cool bits! I look forward to seeing them united with your babies!
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Congratulations on your upcoming anniversary. :huh:
Man time flies, your work is amazing , and so are your tools. I think I'm to old for starting new projects but I'll read the article you posted.
Hope to hear your baby soon.
Dakazman
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Happy Decade Anniversary (well, in a little while)!! :BEER3:
Cool bits! I look forward to seeing them united with your babies!
Thanks BDA. The time flies! If I recall correctly it was March 2nd that I took that fateful drive to rescue this delightful little car in the previous owners driveway. I still remember the feelings of effervescent excitement as I first laid eyes on her!
I have driven the Elan about 7000 miles last year so hopefully I will be able to tell a difference in the reduced unsprung mass. :)
I am still working on the floating front rotor set up, but I have designed myself in to a bit of a corner regarding the upright. Thus far my journey has been to adapt modern braking technology to the Triumph components in a sensible way. I modify the original rotor to accept floating bobbins. The problem is that the floating bobbins protrude slightly past the rotor face. The best way I can figure to remedy this is to remove the brake caliper bracket entirely...to me this means machining a new upright out of aluminum. There are some benefits as I can make the brake mount an integral part of this piece. It would allow running a spherical bearing in place of the trunnion. I can also run a shim type camber adjustment on the upper ball joint which is par for modern single seater upright design. In theory this assembly would bolt up in place of the original triumph unit as it uses the same upper ball joint, and all geometry would be preserved. I have elected to keep the original wheel bearings and spindle since I have designed my aluminum hub to be backwards compatible if using fixed mounting for the rotor. (the floating bobbin part is the trouble spot), but this might be a compromise.... I am drifting far from "originality" even though I have gone to some lengths to keep the geometry identical. Modern single seaters use larger bearings which would certainly be possible to do at this stage. There is more fun to be had!
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Congratulations on your upcoming anniversary. :huh:
Man time flies, your work is amazing , and so are your tools. I think I'm to old for starting new projects but I'll read the article you posted.
Hope to hear your baby soon.
Dakazman
Thanks Dman! I hope to have some parts to show soon :)
Here is a better video to watch about casting
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCgpVfB4exQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCgpVfB4exQ)
It's never too late to start!
My grandfather on my dad's side was interested in sculpture and he used to make figures and patterns for lost wax that he would send to a foundry to have poured. If he were still around today I'm sure we would be having lots of fun!!
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Windshields are in! 6 are spoken for 3 are still available.
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More good news!
I am glad I live in Texas where there is a machining industry that occasionally offloads equipment so that people like me can play with these toys. I recently acquired a hydraulic broaching machine and a gear hobber! I conned a friend in to splitting them with me so I will be able to make new input/output shafts, and rear hubs among other things!!!
I also got my drum of suspend a slurry for the lost wax casting. The company that sells it only deals in drums out of their TX distribution hub so I have 400 lbs worth...
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Pretty cool! It looks like you’re angling to become Chunky Nukem! :)
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Awesome!
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Cool beans, Chuck. Nice additions to the shop. You're the kind of guy I'd like living next door to me. ;)
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Thanks guys!
Quick question for those who have installed a windshield. Would you go Urethane or Butyl? Will urethane be a total pain to remove a windshield later?
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I would only use butyl on a gasketed windshield. From both a strength and leakage potential urethane is the way to go. Removing urethane in the future is a little harder, but not much.
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Progress is moving ever slowly. The rear calipers are on! As soon as the rear hubs are repainted I will see how much offset I need to add to my rear hats to line everything up. The S2 needs less offset than the TCS which is nice. I'm not planning to run the parking brake on this car yet which also lets me get away with less offset.
Mom got a new sewing machine that can do leather and vinyl so we are going to tackle the dash. I am excited about this little project. On the S2 I am thinking about doing contrast blue stitching in on the French seam to match the Previous owners blue seat inserts.
The new monster 3d printer is working away! The first pattern for the Renault to dcoe45 intake is done so I will start dipping it in slurry soon.
I machine down the stock front rotor to be a two piece affair. I decided to experiment with machining J hook slots in my rotors. I got carried away and machined Paul Rego's logo in to a rotor for him :)
Hooray for 1000 posts!
Let's see what happens in the next few weeks!!
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Great stuff, Chuck! I noticed you don’t seem to be doing a twin link rear suspension. Any reason?
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Thanks! I will do a twin link on the TCS which will have an NG3 and CV axles.
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The fun begins!
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Out of curiosity, since I know very little about casting, do those maroon runners flow metal to the bottom of the casting, or are they for letting air out as the metal fills the mold?
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Chuck, I'm moving to TEXAS
:beerchug:
Is that equipment in that center or your shop?
Dave
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Out of curiosity, since I know very little about casting, do those maroon runners flow metal to the bottom of the casting, or are they for letting air out as the metal fills the mold?
The maroon runners are wax. I am testing with and without. We will learn together :) The body of the intake was 3d printed with PLA. I dressed the print with wax to fill imperfections, and then I coat the pattern with a special ceramic slurry. The part gets sprinkled with sand. After doing that several times the part should be ready for burn out and the pour. There are more fun parts coming!
Chuck, I'm moving to TEXAS
:beerchug:
Is that equipment in that center or your shop?
Dave
Come on down!
I keep my machines at a friends shop :) Actually I have machines spread across several friend's shops... One day I will have my own place I hope :)
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More excitement here! I bought another broken toy!! Whist traveling around the state for work and perusing the classifieds in the hotel room I stumbled on a Bystronic PR6 60 6 axis CNC press brake. It has an issue which has rendered it inoperable, but I think (hope) it is fixable. It is a gamble taking on a 20 yr old piece of German electromechanical wizardry that may no longer be supported...but I could not resist....
It will live at my friend's shop several minutes from my house. He has a CNC fiber laser which can cut out sheet metal up to .500 thick. We now have a nice arrangement where his machine can cut it and mine can bend it! Hopefully my chassis woes will soon be a thing of the past :)
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Really cool, Chuck! You do know that you don’t have to bend .5” sheet to make a frame, right? ;)
It’s looking more and more like you’re getting into the Europa building business! Regardless, I’m excited for you! :beerchug:
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Nice! Good luck on the repairs!
I think .500 thick would be plate not sheetmetal :confused:
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Nice! Good luck on the repairs!
I think .500 thick would be plate not sheetmetal :confused:
Anything less than 1" is sheet metal to a machinist :FUNNY:
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Really cool, Chuck! You do know that you don’t have to bend .5” sheet to make a frame, right? ;)
It’s looking more and more like you’re getting into the Europa building business! Regardless, I’m excited for you! :beerchug:
Thanks!! Yes I think we are going to have some home grown Texas Lotus before too long! Almost every car I have needs a replacement chassis so this venture should pay for itself just on my needs alone!
Last summer I got a hoard of sheet metal from an aerospace auction and I have lots of 7000 series aluminum in the proper thicknesses to make an aluminum chassis.... I need to stop day dreaming and get this press working!
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Aluminum frame! Very cool! Now all we would need after that is a carbon fiber body!
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Aluminum frame! Very cool! Now all we would need after that is a carbon fiber body!
You know it :) I wonder how light a Europa could be.... I think if you did a carbon body well you could ditch the chassis entirely and do it with honeycomb sections and bonded aluminum bulkheads for anchor points like a modern race car. That would be truly crazy...
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We considered 7 series aluminum “ unweldable “ when I was in the Air Force. It cracked very easily.
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We considered 7 series aluminum “ unweldable “ when I was in the Air Force. It cracked very easily.
Yes you would have to glue and rivet it. I believe the Lotus 79 is made from an english analog of the 2000 series. It is terrifying how thin that tub is! The material is tricky to work with...It is brittle when it is in a T6 or T7 temper and prone to cracking. I believe the best practice is to fold everything at a lower T0 temper and then have the assembly heat treated.
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I remember welding a stand out of 7075 T6 and the welds looked beautiful!
Every time you moved it you heard “tink” and had another cracked weld :(
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Progress! It stops!!! I got the rear disc set up on my S2 and everything seems good. I will try to get the windshield bonded in tonight so that I can take her for a drive tomorrow! I have a friend with a very similar and original type 65 S2. Hopefully we can get our cars together and do a back to back comparison :)
I moved the JPS back to the garage so that work can commence again....Time to start on the interior!!
In other Lotus news I am repainting the Eclat that I got last year so that has kept me somewhat sidetracked. I finished painting the window frames for the S2 and JPS so those are done now. I did a matte black to contrast against the gloss black.
Mom and I did the vinyl dash on the S2. I had to make about 5 different patterns until we got it just right. The fiberglass panel from banks needed some extensive modification as well. I am planning to do the dash out of leather in the TCS. I am leaning towards doing a full leather interior on this car.
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Everything seems to be shaping up! Your blue S2 looks great! :beerchug:
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All looking good. I like the blue. Is that the Twin Cam you gold leafed the stripes on? Good to see it still has the ashtray.
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All looking good. I like the blue. Is that the Twin Cam you gold leafed the stripes on? Good to see it still has the ashtray.
The ashtray is actually in the S2 at the moment. It came without a console and the only one I had spare was a TCS console that had been wrapped previously. The ashtray was the find of 2022! I got it in a pile of parts that came with my other eclat and elite! I couldn't believe it!! I got tons of unobtanium Elite and Eclat parts and the Europa ashtray was sitting in their midst.
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My god! This thing is incredible!! I still have a few issues to sort before she is registered...but my god!!! I finally know what I have been waiting for all these years!!!
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This is the first time you’ve driven a Europa?
I know you’re not the only one and I think that says a lot about a car that people are willing buy them as a bunch of boxes of parts and spend more time and money to build it so they could finally drive one.
Enjoy your new toy!
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:trophy: Enjoy!
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Awesome!
I can hardly wait to finally drive one!!
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It works!!! It was a great first test of the process. I need to add more runners and a larger sprue to promote flow at the base of the casting and to provide more head pressure. I think this can be welded and saved. Next up is the special Renault to Zetec bellhousing!
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I'm in awe of your skills, well done.
My first one was a basket case and it was years before I actually got to drive one......definitely worth the wait
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Nice work!
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In spite of what the thermometer said, that’s very cool!! :beerchug:
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Thanks guys! I used PLA on this go around which is a well tried method, but there are known issues with ash and debris left behind. For the next print I am going to try a new filament, Polycast that is specialty made for casting. This should help with some of the surface defects. Another issue might have come from burying the bottom of the mold in sand. Apparently the temperature differential can cause problems with shrinkage in the buried portion.
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Impressive stuff, Chuck. That's looking quite good.
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I had quite a momentous week! I have been searching for a CNC router for a number of years to make patterns for aluminum castings and molds for composite body panels. Somehow I stumbled in to this deal...
I searched craigslist of all places and found an absolute smoking deal on this CNC router (It works!) The owner had it in a detached garage at the back of his lot. He was remodeling his house to sell on the market and absolutely needed it gone.... We got to talking and he also had a currently non functional Haas VF-0E in the same detached garage. He had pulled the vector drive (Haas' servo drive) from it to power a different machine at his shop which had broken. He said "Look, if you are interested in the router and can get it next week I will give you the Haas for free..."
So I showed up with my rigger and we moved his machines!
Currently they are in storage...Not that I needed more motivation to finish the Twin cam...but once it is done that will open a space in the garage for these beauties. The PO had elected to cut his header to fit the Haas in his garage. I believe you can remove the motor and the pneumatic counterweight which will allow it to fit under a 7" garage door.
The news on the press brake has been good so far. I am convinced that the issue was a bad winding in the X axis motor. This caused a failure which overloaded the servo drive and blew some capacitors and a thermal resistor on the power side. The servo drives are tied in pairs, so one failure took out 2 drives. Once the new capacitors were replaced, the drives appear to be functioning again. I found out that the previous owner had sent the motor in to be repaired recently, and that it was still under warranty! I dropped it off for repair this week so hopefully the press will be operational soon!
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It looks like what you need is a huge warehouse to store all your toys and cars!
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It looks like what you need is a huge warehouse to store all your toys and cars!
I am thinking an Amish style barn raising is in order.
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Hope you have a pallet jack to move it around, but if not I used a assortment of pipes to roll a heavy crate engine around like the egyptians.
Congrats on your new toy.
Dakazman
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I have been working on my fuel tank assembly line. I am going to make aluminum versions of the S1, S2, TCS, Eclat, and Esprit tanks set up for either in tank FI pumps, or an external pump. Soon my fleet will have clean and rust free fuel pumping :)
The bellhousing is almost ready to burn out. Progress is afoot!
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Great stuff, Chuck!!
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Awesome!
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The baffled fuel cell project is under way. I am also producing the coolant header tanks for S1/2, TCS, Elite/Eclat, and Esprit in aluminum. I will post more once everything is done! I have a good friend who is a talented welder and a fellow Europa owner that is helping me out with this undertaking. It's funny how many great things have happened as a result of mutual connections through these little cars. I had to show off his welding skills here. The pic of the bead was his first practice piece that morning!
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Very nicely done!
If you're looking for projects:
NG3 owners either need or will likely need a new input shaft bearing. They are apparently made of unobtanium. One company makes a similar bearing that goes on the Mitsubishi 3000 (https://www.3sx.com/3sx-high-performance-billet-input-shaft-bearing-for-5-6-speeds). Of course it's bigger and can't be used by NG3 owners. The nice thing about their unit is that it can be rebuilt. The bearing and the seal are replaceable. Maybe in your "spare time" you could come up with a similar bearing for us NG3 owners...
Just a thought! :)
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Very nicely done!
If you're looking for projects:
NG3 owners either need or will likely need a new input shaft bearing. They are apparently made of unobtanium. One company makes a similar bearing that goes on the Mitsubishi 3000 (https://www.3sx.com/3sx-high-performance-billet-input-shaft-bearing-for-5-6-speeds). Of course it's bigger and can't be used by NG3 owners. The nice thing about their unit is that it can be rebuilt. The bearing and the seal are replaceable. Maybe in your "spare time" you could come up with a similar bearing for us NG3 owners...
Just a thought! :)
Thanks BDA. Yes I have an NG3 that I plan to swap eventually. I will look in to it! Once I get a few products off the ground and tested I will have to get a website together :)
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I’m not trying to rush you but do you have one to pattern your design after?
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I’m not trying to rush you but do you have one to pattern your design after?
I believe my input shaft bearing is still in the case, I will have to inspect it later. Is this a unique problem to using the box with a TCS bellhousing? I am not so up on the issue.
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That is some nice TIG. What machine are you using?
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I don't think it is a unique problem to the TC bellhousing. When I pulled the tranny out of my car, I also changed the clutch disc. There was oil on the flywheel and I highly suspect that some got on the disc and/or friction surface as well even though it wasn't obvious. So I suspect that the seal in mine is likely worn. Since the seal/bearing is no longer available, I'll just have to live with the one I have for now.
I think the fact that somebody made a replacement for the Mitsubishi 3000 suggests that they have a similar problem.
I don't know what kind of seal they use but an 'X' type seal rather than a standard lip seal might be better because when you insert the input shaft into it, you could push the lip out compromising the seal. It might be instructive to find out what kind of seal 3SX Performance uses. I realize that is all something to worry about down the road.
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That is some nice TIG. What machine are you using?
Thanks! It's a Miller Dynasty 350. Results definitely vary because my welding doesn't look anything like that on that machine!
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It worked! Mostly! My kiln messed up the burn out so there were a few issues with unburnt plastic fragments being trapped inside. There were no cooling issues like with the intake manifold, and I seemed to get good flow all the way up the 1/8" walls. The voids from the plastic are correctable once I get my kiln working as it should. This piece was meant to be more of a development in order to verify all dimensions after cooling, and to test the heat treatment and milling. I could probably run it if I weld up the voids, so we will see how V2 looks!
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Nice work Chuck!
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It works!!! The next casting should fix all my burnout issues so this is getting closer to being a reality. So far I have one other bellhousing in the works for a friend who is also doing a zetec swap. The moment that it slid on the dowels with the light tap of a rubber mallet was very satisfying :) When I confirmed that every bolt threaded in I began howling like a madman :trophy:
In other news, I recently won neighbor of the year award when I brought these two darlings home. Notice the structural relief required to get the milling machine under my carport :)
The router is going to help facilitate future casting projects by making patterns for sand molding. The small mill is going to allow me access to a machine without the 2 hour roundtrip commute I am currently making. There are a few other exciting things in the background but I will wait to post about them until I have some more concrete results.
As an aside I am also experimenting with welded bellhousings and tail housings on my Eclat project. My car was a 4 speed and it had issues. Reverse would pop out, 4500 rpm at 70mph...I have decided to fuel inject the car and change over to a T5 transmission. I even found an old Lotus 5 speed but the headache of sourcing parts and rebuilding it with its comically small gears.... The T5 only weighs 75 lbs and it has many more gear ratios available. The Eclat calls for the shift location to be in a non standard position, about 2" behind the face of the tail housing. I was told by a T5 rebuilder that this is the ideal location for sunbeam alpine & tiger guys as well. So in the quest to try something different I cut up a Jensen Healey bellhousing and my plan is to weld a plate to it and machine it after the fact. For the tail housing I cut the detent box out and milled away the rest of the casting. We will see how it goes!
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Amazing stuff, Chuck!! What else can I say? :beerchug:
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Quite extraordinary what you are achieving Chuck….very impressive :beerchug:
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As always, nice!
The welded bell housing should be fine! And T5s shift much better than the old Renault etc stuff :)
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Chuck,
Would an S10 tailshaft housing have worked? I grabbed one for my Jaaag project, as I needed the shift lever closer to the main case.
Other that that, I'm envious of all the machine equipment you're finding.
Rod
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Thanks guys!
Chuck,
Would an S10 tailshaft housing have worked? I grabbed one for my Jaaag project, as I needed the shift lever closer to the main case.
Other that that, I'm envious of all the machine equipment you're finding.
Rod
So the S10 works perfectly on an Elan set up, but it is just a bit too close for the Eclat. Which Jaaag did you do? My buddy has an XJ6 and an XJS that he wants to manual swap. I am going to help him with the bellhousing side of things once we get to that point, but I have yet to do any research on the project.
It is out there! Keep an eye out and you too can have some broken cnc machines :)
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Wow! Very cool stuff, Chuck. Proper mechanical alchemy here.
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Chuck,
The Jaaag project is currently in the works, though the Elan has to be finished first. As of today, the project consists of a motor, bellhousing, T5, new wire wheels, Jag diff and MGB front kingpins. The chassis is hopefully going to be cut in January (laser tube cutting), the rest will be fabricated sometime next year.
(https://i.ibb.co/JQwBYkV/Toj-Jag-With-Lower-Body-resize.jpg)
As for a bellhousing/adapter, I sent a CAD file to Xometry last week, it's supposed to ship early in January, but don't think the CAD file would be of much help for an XJ6 or XJS.
Rod
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OK, for those of us not in that interesting sub-culture, what the heck is a Jaaag? Curious listers want to know!
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This basically sums it up:
https://youtu.be/yOiqd8eQ8tI?si=nofUJEuBsncTj_Bk (https://youtu.be/yOiqd8eQ8tI?si=nofUJEuBsncTj_Bk)
I'm sort of hooked on them after buying an XF a few years back, and unfortunately a friend of mine gave me a whole pile of Jaaag parts which has "caused" the new project.
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I have been educated. >:D Thank you RoddyMac
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Roddy that is really cool! Tell us more! What body is going to clothe that beauty?
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Merry Christmas guys. I had to share my gift from santa. I asked him for a leather interior for my Europa. He gave me a little orange helper and we got it done :)
It is getting closer day by day... I hope to have my fuel tanks finished up in Jan when my welder friend comes back to Dallas. The next batch of bellhousings should be cast by Feb so I think this thing might fire to life by spring....after 11 years!
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That's going to look great Chuck! Santa is your friend! :pirate: