Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: Gary t on Wednesday,March 28, 2018, 07:38:49 PM
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My car came with no door cover on the right side, so trace the left one using a mirror. This is left cover and the the mould that I hope to use to create a right hand door cover.
Also a picture of my car as I first seen it.
Gary
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One thing that constantly amazes me on this forum is the "can do" attitude of the members. Making your own door panel from a mirror image of the other side is a great example, very impressive Gary. I'm looking forward to the lay-up and trimming stages so take plenty of pictures. It would even make a neat article for the tech section because the info is transferable to other trim parts such as the centre console.
Brian
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Hello Gary,
Brian is right, the ingenuity and resolve of Europa addicts to repair, modify or replace parts never fails to amaze me!
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Thanks but the proof will be in the fitting.😁
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Still here.
Layups are now nice and sticky.
The last photo is a rebuild job that is also consuming some of my shop time, and of course honeydo.
Gary
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It's interesting you used cloth. I would have thought mat would be easier to work with.
What are you rebuilding?
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Making a right hand door liner.
I am using epoxy resin as the mold is styrofoam so no matt.
Gary
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Are you making a plug to make a mold for the door liner, or are you going to scoop out the foam and use the shell you are laying up? ... Screw that, tell us about the wooden airplane!!!
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Was the fuselage made by Fairey?
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Making one part so no plug just the part. Dig out the form out and trim.
Gary
Aircraft--- Dh-98.
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Very cool! (Thanks Wikipedia!) Do yo have 2 inverted 12 cyl engines to go with it?
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Hi Gary,
Lovely photo of the mossie. Is it being restored to flight condition or just static? Either way it’s brilliant that it’s being looked after. Well done.
Regards,
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So the Mosquito. It is a post war aircraft operated by Spartan Air Services a Canadian company that used 10 Mosquitos to do photo mapping in Canada Central America South America,and a little bit in NW Africa.
We are doing a display restoration. An yes we have all the big unfindable parts.
If we're going to talk more about this aircraft we should go off this page, and trust me I could bore you to tears.
Gary
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Hello Gary,
If you have the time, please do start a new thread/page regarding the Mosquito.
As we had a typically wet and miserable Bank Holiday weekend, I spent some time watching documentaries celebrating 100 years of the Royal Air Force.
The Mosquito was featured in one of the programmes, what a beautiful aircraft.
Mark
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Fairey adapted the construction method used for the Mosquito to building sailing dinghies after the war. Most of those boats are still sailing today. Even today those old wooden boats are competitive against new fiberglass versions. It was an incredibly good way to build boats.
So that's why I made the connection to Fairey.
I'm sure you all wanted to know that. :D
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Nice boat - and of course, the mosquito! It must be really involved to form wood with those curves! They are beautiful, though!
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Well, if you'd like to know how they were made there's an old British Pathe film of the process in action here:
https://www.britishpathe.com/video/firefly-racing-dinghy
You could also try this link if, for some reason, you were more interested in the Lotus Europa
https://www.britishpathe.com/search/query/lotus+europa
It's a shame we didn't get the same level of detail on the construction of the Europa.
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Here is my new right hand door card, rough trimmed and I hope hand safe. Next step is to start fine trimming to fit the door. But spring is coming very slowly to the Canadian prairies so that will have to wait until the unheated garage is useable.
Next new instrument panel. The PO has extensivlily modified the controls and general layout. I am hoping for a stock look.
Gary
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To fabricates something from scratch is impressive, so well done sir ! Actually, when you lay your new one against the old one it makes the original look poor. I'd be tempted to make another for the other side !
Brian
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I'm with Brian. That's well done and a good reason to make it's mate! :beerchug:
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I have about 6 hours and 40 or 50 dollars invested. No way I'm making another 😁. To be fair the original is in good condition, no reason to replace it.
So on to the next segment of the project.
Gary
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Boy has it been a while since I posted.
I have been working honestly.
Do the rear radius arms have a inner and outer end or are they reversable?
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There should be clips for the brake tubes on the top of each one. According to the parts manual, there is a R and L part.
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Not the training links. I would be sad if I could not keep them sorted.
The parts I am asking about are the bottom radius arms.
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Ahh! My mistake. Some people call what I really prefer to call trailing arms, "radius arms" and in fact, that's what the parts manual calls them. The parts manual calls what you refer to as "bottom radius arms" as "lower links."
Both of the lower links (bottom radius arms) are the same part.
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And the same on both ends?
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IIRC they are angled slightly. I think if it's backwards, it will be obvious.
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Thanks I thought that they were the same but I put the second one in last evening and then started to second guess myself.
Today started to take the left front apart. Can't get the top pin to move. Hot, atf/acetone,tap (brass hammer) hot atf/acetone, tap. Broke the weld on the nut on aft end.
Keep trying.
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Hi Gary t ,
I don’t work on military aircraft but I definitely would work on that mosquito . I love vintage anything.
Are you an AMT? It definitely is a great looking aircraft. My experience is with all Boeing, Airbus and ex McDonnel/ Douglas aircraft.
Your work on door cards looks great.
Dakazman
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As far as aircraft go I just like airplanes. I am a home builder. The Mosquito is one of the greatest ever it is a privilege to work on it.
At home it is the Europa.
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Two very worthwhile projects. Pictures are welcome anytime. I would definitely read an off topic about the mosquitoe . So not to interfere with the Europa build. Once again hats off to you .
Looking forward to more of your progress.
Dakazman
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Dakazman
Not sure how wide spread the Mosquito interest is pm me and we can talk off-line about the project.
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I, for one, would enjoy a thread about the Mosquito build. (One of the high points in my life was getting to crawl around a B17)
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Ok I'll take two as a majority ;-) an put together a short note and a few photos about the Mosquito that I volunteer on. It will take a few days.
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Make it 3, so that makes a "super majority" ;)
It'll make an interesting read in the "not about Lotus" bit of the forum.
Brian
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make me another other on the mosquito post. I would suggested starting another post in the off topic section and we can keep this one Europa related. Cool projects - both of them.
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A minor victory this evening. Got the top a-arm pivot bolt out it was very stuck in the forward chassis tube.
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Oh and I also make bread this afternoon, I plan to have a warm from the oven slice in about 1/2 hour.
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Sounds like a productive day, Gary!
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Just fitting up the first trunnion overhaul kit and the plastic bushings are very tight, and when pushed in tightened up on the spacer. Is this the way this should fit?
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Yes, they are very tight. They are very stiff when assembled. As long as you can move the trunnion back and forth by the upright, your ok. They need to be tight as they receive no lubrication over their (short) service life.
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I have the rack on my bench for outside cleaning and new boots. The old ones are intact and the inside looks nice and clean. The operation seems fine. Do I need to pack grease in the boots? If so how much?
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Don't use grease in a steering rack. Use semi-fluid grease, steering box lube or gear oil.
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What do you use to close access holes in the front frame?
Service manual says black adhesive tape.
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Mine were taped up as well. Most I found plugs for. A few I used tape.
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What kind of tape. Duct tape just drys out
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On any large round hole I used either a plastic/rubber plug or a "Seals-It":
http://sealsit.com
These are especially useful around shafts and pushrods.
I only used tape, top-quality, electrical, on the remaining small holes.
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PS: There are good quality duct tapes that do not dry out. The cheap and nasty stuff does because, well, it's cheap and nasty.
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A minor victory this evening. Got the top a-arm pivot bolt out it was very stuck in the forward chassis tube.
I didn't realise until pulling apart chassis #6, that the bottom 1/2" stud that holds the bottom A arms on, should actually completely slide out too. I thought it was welded in place. Luckily both bottom arms can come off by undoing the 3/4" nuts.
If you cannot get the top 1/2" stud out, with nut welded on the rear end, you are stuffed as 1 arm, and the shock absorber are held in place until the stud is completely pushed back into the footwell.
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As I am replacing the shocks (dampers) I destructively removed the damper and slit the bushing. Then I was able to use spacers and the nut to move the pin forward to loosen it and was then able to tap it back and out.
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I have had to grind the metal tube on the bushes on a few seized suspension arms. They just rust up and the rust is 10 times the size, so everything just seizes until you grind through the O to make it a C.
Getting the new bushes into the suspension arms is difficult. I use a wire wheel to make the rubber tapered, and then press them in using masses of lubricant.
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Gary t,
The new bushes (bushings)can be pulled in with a large bolt and washers thru the arm and bushing simply by tightening the nut on the other side. Use some lube and clean inside the arm . Use a lot of antisieze when reassembling.
Dakazman
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Thanks but I have changed lots bushing not many rubber ones but pulling and pressing I have done. Mostly on aircraft.;-)
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Gary t,
What type aircraft? Gotta love it ...Right?
Dakazman
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Working on the door hinges just the left so far.
The door bushings seem to clean up ok but the pivot holes in the body are quite loose (haven't cleaned them or measured them. Has any one bushed them?
Otherwise all is going ok had it on the floor on the redone suspension and ride height and camber all look ok.
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The door bushings seem to clean up ok but the pivot holes in the body are quite loose (haven't cleaned them or measured them. Has any one bushed them?
I didn't need to do mine but drilling oversize & then inserting small brass bushes used to be a common fix for worn body mounts. Chris Foulds (UK Lotus Specialist) used to make & sell them so it wouldn't surprise me if you could buy them if you don't have access to a lathe.
Brian
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Should the hinge pin rotate in the door bushings or the body bushings or does it not matter?
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The pin should be static and the door open by the two door bushes moving on the pin. If the pin rotates then that's what causes the wear in the aluminium body bushes in the door aperture. That makes door adjustment difficult and although you'll get the door to open and close neatly, it will move when the car goes over bumps and it'll rattle. And of course with mild steel pins and mild steel door bushes, no weather protection plus lots of rain, they're going to seize and move as one unit at some point.
I have stainless pins (just 1/2" rod) but when I replaced them I included a mod to stop them turning if/when the steel door bushes became either dried out or rusty. It's not difficult but of course you need to remember what you've done should you ever decide to take the doors off again ;)
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1130.msg9553#msg9553 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1130.msg9553#msg9553)
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I thought I knew how the stock hinges worked but I was 180 degrees from what Brian said! Brian obviously has it right.
There are two types of hinges. r.d sells stainless steel versions of the original and Banks sells a brass hinge that is totally different. The Banks hinges have the advantage that you can take the door off the car and when you put it back on, you only have to readjust the height of the door. This is what I have but I can't say one is easier to adjust than the other as I've never adjusted the stock type hinge. There are instructions for the stock hinges in the Technical Articles section, I believe.
Actually, with Brian's hinges I guess there are three types of hinges!
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Brian I see what you have done and I like it. Lubrication seems to be a issue, if I had more confidence in my ability to drill long (deep) holes I would consider drilling and putting in a greese fitting on the end of the pin.
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I think it was someone on here (Roddymac ?) made some door bushes out of brass. That, coupled with a stainless rod, is pretty much going to solve the problem for good. Thinking about it now, I'm surprised there aren't such kits on the market although I think Bank's hinge alternative design is in brass as well ?
Brian
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Yes, Bank' is brass. It's a totally different idea. There are two hinges that are independent. They are secured in the door to provide the lateral adjustment Each has a "pin" that screws up and down providing vertical adjustment.
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Moving on. I have taken the windows out of the door I have off in order to replace rubber parts and for some reason thought that the 1/4 window seals were ok. Now I want to replace them. Does anyone have a source?
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I would try Dave Bean or r.d. enterprises. Bean is closer to you so I would try them first.
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I think the rubber bits are sorted. Thanks Ken at Dave Bean.
Next question. Should there be a drain in the door?
If so where?
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IIRC, there are a couple of rather large holes (1/2 - 3/4") in the door for a drain.
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Thought that there should be but non in my left hand door. About where are they?
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Act, I misremembered. There are that are about 3/8". They are about 3 1/2" from the inside edge and pretty evenly distributed along the length.
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BDA is correct, 3 holes evenly spaced. See picture 😀
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I have the glass panel trimmed and the door pull made and installed. Fits pretty good.
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This may seem like a silly question but---
The PO has done some odd things, the wiring harness (loom) from the cabin to the front ie lights, front signals and so on is routed through the right front wheel well. Is this where it should be? Or should it go through the frame?
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i will be servicing my doors eventually-
the wiring on mine(54/1846) ran that way, through the right fenderwell, and appeared original.
thanks for the posts!
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It does look well done but seems a strange place for wires. Also there is a hole in the front of the frame that is designated for wiring. That hole just has a solid grommet in it.
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Right front wheel well is indeed the original wire routing. It's Lotus doing odd things, not the PO.
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On second thoughts, it's not so odd. By routing the wiring that way the body and frame can be separated, or assembled, more easily. The loom is attached to the body, except for a small number of ground connections.
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Ok, sorry John.;-)
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What oil is is everyone using for the trunnions?
GL3 is recommended for brass but seems to be hard to find.
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GL4 is also fine with brass. I use Pennzoil:
https://www.amazon.ca/Pennzoil-56076-75W-90-Synthetic-Gear/dp/B00C43BLLS
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Same car new question.
Cold in garage so decided to do a simple shop job. Re cover the sun visors. Removed and disassembled the left hand one, it didn't look quite as expected, padded black vinyl over maysonite, but carry on came out a 7 or 8. Right hand one was more what I expected, wire frame foam core. Which one is right? How do we adjust the friction?
Gary
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The original visors were a wire frame filled with foam (probably polyurethane). By now, the foam disintegrates into a coarse powder so the visor ends up being a bag of foam granules. I've seen where some recreate the visor using foam boards such as you would find at a home improvement store - which is probably what you have.
The wire frame is welded or brazed onto a piece of sheet metal which is what the visor pivot runs through. Crimping that sheet metal will change the tension.
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Hi Gary, I used foam backed headlining cloth to cover the sun visor frame. Fold the cloth around the lower edge and stich up the sides, fit the frame and stitch along the top edge.
Stuart
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Nicely done, Stuleslie!
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Well it seems to be spring here in Southern Alberta so here I go again.
A blank for a replacement instrument panel.
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Looks really good. I'll be redoing my dash in a few months as well. Exciting times.
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At the risk of beating a dead horse, let me remind you to finish both sides and all the edges (gauge holes, etc.) of the dash so that moisture doesn't get behind the veneer.
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Thanks for the reminder, but I am on top of all that, I am more of a wood worker than a car guy so this is my comfort zone.
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Looks good Gary. :beerchug:
Did you get the stencil kit yet? It really finishes off the dashboard.
Dakazman
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No who sells a stencil kit?
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The ,”facia lettering kit “, is sold by R&D . Easy to apply and looks great.
Dakazman
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Making progress. Still on the fence about putting labels on, don't think they came from the factory like that, but still time to decide. I am hoping to do a good enough job of cutting the hole for the cubby-hole that I can use the cutout for the door.
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GaryT, your door cards look great.
I know full well the length of some honey do’s. Lol keep moving forward!
Dakazman
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Making progress. Still on the fence about putting labels on, don't think they came from the factory like that, but still time to decide....
Early S2s like yours did not have labelled switches. Did labels start with the Type 65?
There is a possible downside to leaving them off. Three people spent several minutes this afternoon looking for the hood release on an early Elan. The owner, who had not been in it for several years, eventually remembered the two T-handles at the very top of the dashboard ::)
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On the TCS, the headlight knob, dimmer knob, and fan and hazard warning switches were labeled. Also the heater/defrost controls were labeled.
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Gary is a his what your inserts will look like?
Dakazman
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Dakazman
Those look like great parts. Are they your craftsmanship?
No the door inserts will be upholstered, like stock but not black.
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Looks great, D'man! It looking like your car will be very interesting!
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I am hoping to do a good enough job of cutting the hole for the cubby-hole that I can use the cutout for the door.
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Hi Gary , Yes i made the dash and the inserts , i missed read your post and thought you were going to use the wood in the big cutout.
Dakazman
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Does anyone have photos of how the original pump/wiper switch is mounted on the instrument panel?
Gary
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Or a description?
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For some reason I can't view a PDF on my iPad but there is probably a picture of the dash in the owner's manual here: http://www.lotus-europa.com/manuals/s2owner/index.htm
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I know where it goes but the old panel I am using for a pattern has a giant hole in that location, and the mounting shaft on the switch is .5 inch.
Gary
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Ok another question about mounting things on the instrument panel. How have people fastened the face level vents in? The manual talks about just using the air duct, but that does not seem that secure to me.
Also I am still interested in washer pumps. How are they mounted can the pump be made to work?
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The face level vents have a plastic collar that screws on from behind the dashboard. There are slots in the collar and pegs in the vent that fit into the slots.
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Ok thanks I have no rings. The PO has built a replacement panel very poorly and the rings no longer exist.
Gary
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Have any of you LHD people swapped the dip dwth a direction indicator switch in order to get the indicator switch on the left side of the steering column?
Gary
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Yup, that's the way mine is set up. However you have to use a LHD dip switch off a TR6 if you want "down" for high beam.
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Cool thanks John. Not too worried about the dip switch but I thought the indicator switch would be nice.
Gary
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Gary,
Re: your question about wiper switch. I had to tighten mine so I thought I would take it out to show you the components.
It sounds to me that you are missing the two deep dish washer/spacers. One goes behind the dash and the chrome one in front. I also made a tool out of 15mm copper pipe with two teeth to locate in the nut for tightening. The flaw with this switch is that the thread around the spindle is plastic. Prone to cross threading and striping with over tightening - not great.
FYI I have included a pic of the rear of the switch where a PO inserted a push switch for and electric wash pump instead of a diaphragm, sorry I do not have any info on how it was done.
Stuart
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Thanks Stuart that helps a lot.
The pump no longer pumps so I think I will attempt to copy the switch idea, as I have found a new bag with a electric pump in it.
Gary
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The padding/carpet adventure starts tomorrow. The old padding and carpet is of little or no use as patterns. Any hints or words of wisdom?
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Still picking away. I have been working on wiring and instrument panel and now the center console.
Two shots of the panel it is in and all the wires work.
Before and after of the center console. The PO had cut it into pieces I rejoined the pieces with fiberglass then covered with the hide of the great noga. I know the seam is not straight but for a newby not to bad.
Gary
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Gary, that looks great! And even better that you did your own stitching! I've never done it but I would think that sewing even the more supple hydes of the naga would be a real challenge!
Something I saw recently on an Elan listed on Hemmings really impressed me and with your creativity you might want to consider it. It is a cover for the underside of the dash. (https://assets.hemmings.com/uimage/69055901-770-0@2X.jpg?rev=1)
It's on a very long list of things I might do on my car!
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more upholstery
I am happy with the seat but I will miss the duct tape and fun fir. The old covers were not even good enough to make patterns. new covers and new foam all around.
I am satisfied with the door card. This is the door that I made a new card for so the bare door is the before picture.
And another picture of the center console and first try at a shifter boot it may not work
Gary
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Really nice work Gary, the colors compliment each other and the exterior color. :beerchug:
Dakazman
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Looks great, Gary! There aren't many who would venture into upholstery and probably fewer who could do it as well! :beerchug:
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Looks great. The colours work well. Nice work.
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Nice work!
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Hi Gary,
Just looked through this post. Great job on the upholstery. Hopefully mine will look as good.
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Very tastefully done! :beerchug:
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Looking for something to do in my warm shop not the cold garage. I was thinking that I could remove the carb and do a clean up. The car was shut down 25 years ago what should I do to rejuvenate the carb?
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What carb is on there right now?
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It is a Webber.
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First check for play in the throttle shafts. A (very) minor amount of play is ok. Anything more and the carb is toast. Yes it is possible to fit bushes, new shafts and butterflies but that usually runs more than a replacement carb.
Play is ok? Remove the top plate. The choke plate is linked to the throttle and be released either by removing a pin, or by unhooking a bit of linkage. LOOK carefully and get it right. It’s a simple connection but how it comes apart is not always obvious.
Now look at your float. Brass? Excellent. Black composite? Not so much. Ethanol may attack this kind of float. Next remove the three screws holding the vacuum operated power valve. Look very carefully at the power valve diaphragm.
Now put the carb back together correctly. It will take a while for parts to come and it’s best to not to leave it disassembled while you wait — at least if your memory is anything like mine, sigh.
At a minimum, you need a major overhaul kit which will include: all the gaskets, pump diaphragm, and needle and seat. Add a power valve and/or float based on what you found.
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Also: check the brass inlet pipe. These have been known to work loose and fall out, spraying fuel everywhere. Any doubt at all, remove it, clean it and the carb top bore carefully and refit with permanent loctite.
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Thanks John. Are parts available from the usual lotus places or are they more difficult to find?
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Best to go with a Weber specialist as the DGV was not stock — an excellent replacement though. I use these people:
https://www.dellorto.co.uk/
Excellent stock and quick shipping.
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Hi Gary, I’m also in the process of rebuilding my Weber DGV 32. There are many step by step documents found by google search of your model number. Link below is a good listing. I lost the link with the pictures , but still looking. Don’t buy the redline kit, it lacks many needed parts such as the power valve. I’ll look for the vendor on eBay .
https://www.mgexp.com/article
http://www.cjclub.co.il/files/Weber3236adjust.pdf
Dakazman
Of course make sure it is correct for your carb.
NEW 32/36 DGV DGAV DGEV Carburetor Carb Rebuild Repair Tune Up Kit For Weber
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-32-36-DGV-DGAV-DGEV-Carburetor-Carb-Rebuild-Repair-Tune-Up-Kit-For-Weber-/283224877187
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Ok thanks guys but I have to learn more. Maybe it will be warm enough in the garage tomorrow to remove carb from manifold so I will know exactly what I have.
Dakazman the "mgexp.com" link does not work for me
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D'man's link didn't work for me either but a search on the site for "DGV" gave this: https://www.mgexp.com/search/#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=dgv&gsc.sort=
A lot of the articles appear to be about tuning and presumably, yours is already tuned and just needs some TLC. It looks like subsequent pages are greyed out. They are not there are five pages of comments and forum threads on DGV carbs. There is lots for you to chew on there!
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Sorry about the link, thanks for correcting it also.
Here is another link on how to repair a DGV carb. This is close to what I’m looking for in my countless notes.
https://www.classicfordmag.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/classic-ford-weber-dgv-rebuild-instructions.pdf
Dakazman
Found some videos on YouTube (see pic)
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Thanks that is a great article now I am excited to get at it. I plan to follow John's advice and take it apart to be sure what I will need before ordering the service kit.
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Me again. :deadhorse:
I found the link I was looking for that had a very nice step-by-step but laid out a bit sporadic.
There are also many other how to there. Enjoy. I tried to fix the link but it keeps copying this. Scroll down all the way to bottom of page and you’ll get to to beginning.
https://motofaction.org/mechanical-101/how-rebuild-clean-weber-32-36-dgv-dgav-dgev-dfv-dfev-dfav-carbs-carburetors-carburettors/how-remove-air-correction-jets-emulsion-tubes-main-jets/
Dakazman
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Removed carb this morning and it is a Weber 32 DFM 4. what does that mean?
It does not seem to bad at first glance, except the choke shaft holes are a but big, but bushings would not be rocket science.
More to come later.
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Gary, a simple search on google of Weber 32 dfm shows a few articles for you to read. Seems that it came from a cortina . When you order part from the site JB mentioned, scroll to the correct section.
Do you have any pictures of any brackets that hold your choke and throttle? I’m still going thru bags of parts and can use any pictures.
Dakazman
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I can do some tomorrow afternoon if that works.
I have read what I can find but it is nothing like the 32-36, and there are quite a few differences. And the kit is easy to find. I did a good evaluation this afternoon and the only thing I found was the looseness in the choke shaft.
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Play in the choke shaft is not critical.
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I know but things never get better by themselves.
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It's a "strangler" choke, not a precise tool by any description. The choke shaft just runs in the housing so you could bush it. Myself? Why bother. A few pumps in the morning and you don't really need the choke. Racers remove the choke flap and mech entirely though a little fast idle while it warms up is handy. If you plan on driving it in winter, then that's another matter entirely.
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Dakazman The control connections that are on my car are very simple, the throttle cable goes to a quadrant on a pivot on the rocker cover with a push rod to the throttle lever on the carb. (picture 1) the choke cable outside goes to a boss cast into the carb (picture 2) and the cable goes to the choke lever. hope this helps. As you know my car is a non federal 1969 s2.
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Still on the carb. The little venturis are a little bit loose, how loose can they be? What could I do to tighten the fit.
Other than that it all looks good, didn't take the butterflies out as all the screws are staked, and except for the sligh loosenes in the choke shaft there didn't seem to be a good reason to force them.
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There needs to be a bit of play for the venturis ro slide in place. If you feel it's excessive, you can use a centre punch and put multiple "divots" in the opposite side to the venturi inlet. This will tighten it back up.
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A question that I forgot yesterday.
There is a brass pin/rod across the bore of the primary between the throttle butterfly and the venturi (I have attached a couple of poor pictures) it is loose it won't come out but moves back and forth a couple of mm. My thought is to push in as far as it will go (about flush on the outside) and stake it in place I could put a little loctite on it first to make a air seal. But what is it for and should it be loose?
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No, it should not be loose. There are all sorts of passages for the idle, accelerator pump circuits, etc. These are drilled and then plugged at the one end as required. Lightly knock it further in and peen around it with a centre punch to hold it in place.
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Thanks John that is what I had thought. I had not considered that is was a plugged drill access. It might also explain the reported poor running by the po. I'll push it out as far as I can put some red loctite on it tap it back into the hole and stake it.
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Carb waiting for parts, so my goldfish attention span has led me to something new.
Crash pad.
I have the original and it is not in super horrible shape but -
it does not seem to fit the car at the ends and the A pillars. What have others done about this or is 54/1173 unique in this.
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Could someone that has the crash pad installed please post some pictures of how it fits the corners against the windscreen mine seems to be a round peg in a square hole and since the windscreen is out I am struggling to see how it should look.
Received my carb kit seemed good, the only think I would have liked was new split pins for the choke linkages.
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I like to use tiny hair spring pins instead.
https://www.pivotpins.com/products/images/landing-hair-pin-cotter-lg.jpg
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Well it has been a long cold winter and a slow spring but I think the temperature in the unheated garage is nearly +15°C so back to questions.
What have people done with crash pads? Mine is cracked and maybe not perfectly shaped, it does not seem to fit at the front out board corners under the windscreen (of course I don't know what it should look like). There is also a space between the pad and the A pillar.
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Well it has been a long cold winter and a slow spring but I think the temperature in the unheated garage is nearly +15°C so back to questions.
What have people done with crash pads? Mine is cracked and maybe not perfectly shaped, it does not seem to fit at the front out board corners under the windscreen (of course I don't know what it should look like). There is also a space between the pad and the A pillar.
I cracked mine when I pulled it out. My plan is to put a layer of fibreglass cloth on top of it extending the crash pad a little further towards the windshield and pillars and then slowly cutting it back until I have a really good fit. Epoxy or polyester mixed with micro-balloons can be used for filler to level areas out similar to doing bodywork. At this point I'll be covering mine with leather as I'm using leather for the entire interior.
I haven't figured out how to deal with my warped vents yet but might make a mold and do them in fibreglass.
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I think all the usual suspects (Dave Bean, r.d. enterprises, Europa Engineering, etc. sell fiberglass replacements that can be covered in anything you like.
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I had also thought about doing a layer of glass on top. The repairs I did seem to be very fragile.
I had hoped to not go with a whole new part. I am going with the excuse that my time is free and education as some value.
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Do you need some pictures of how it can look?
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Yes BDA that would be great. It is not the next planned project but I like to have a idea where I am going.
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I don't know if these will help you but here are some from my car. I have an old foam crashpad (NLA) and I had it covered with vinyl. When my car was "new", the edges of the dash against the windshield had come up so when I talked to them at the interior shop, I told them to make sure that wouldn't happen again. I suggested they glue or pop it under the windshield because I had heard of somebody doing that back when it was "new." I don't know how they did it but it looks like they followed my suggestion. You can see some of the vinyl wrapped over the body and covered by the black windshield goo.
If you need different views, just ask.
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Thanks so much for the photos. I hope I can get close to as good. My car is a s2 with the screen in the rubber strip. I really like the corners against the a pillars. I am really leaning towards putting a layer of fiber glass on to help the cracks and then I could extend the front corners.
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New subject. Today (last couple of work sessions) in goes the new parking brake cable. New to regrow some skin. It all seems ok except that the horseshoe rubs on the cooling tubes, is this normal? If not what have I done wrong? If it is normal does anyone protect the cooling tubes?
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Everything should “just” miss. Open part of the horse shoe facing up?
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No dought that it touches. Yes open side is up.
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So I have gone through it all again, left more DNA, it all works but there is the contact on the cooling tubes. Any ideas what I might have wrong? Or what I can do?
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It does touch the cooling tubes mine does it too. I asked the same question in the thread for my car here http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3266.0 (http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=3266.0)
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I'd be inclined to wrap the cooling tubes with something to protect them, especially if they are aluminium.
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John that is my if all else fails plan (I have an old crazy carpet that I cut pieces off of). But it would be nice to get it right.
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Fuel tank in piece of cake. Only took 6 hours, but am pretty happy with the results. I used polyurethane pads on the mounts. Was surprised how easy the rubber hose for the filler went.
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I had to do it twice ,the original birdcaged on one side so I pulled it out and put in another one. I know your pain. My ebrake also touches slightly. I guess a rubber pad / matting would quiet it up a bit.
Dakazman
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Dakazman it's all fun. I zip tied plastic sheet (from a crazy carpet, a sheet that kids of all ages use to slide on snow) it's maybe .025 thick.
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Its been a while but work goes on. Engine is running, interior is all in seats are in, new tires oare on the rims (still at the tire shop). Today after a few hours work on the Mosquito is to remove the output shaft seal. Came out ok (8 5/8 turns). Seal and oring are as hard as rocks.
The ring that the seal runs on has a small groove (my finger nail feels it but my finger can't) is that going to be ok? How do I get the seal out of the carrier?
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As an aside, how’s the Mosquito restoration going? Is it for a return to flight or is it a static exhibit?
Thanks.
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Bodzer the mosquito will be static with all systems on board and running engines. Fuselage is structurally complete plumbing and control systems starting to go back in. Stabilizer and flaps are the current structural work.
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Just to continue i have added two photos of the seal running surface. I can feel the groove with my finger nail but barely with my finger. Is it going to be ok?
What is the best way to get the old seal out of the carrier?
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Doesn't look good. You should fit repair sleeves. Auto parts suppliers should have them. Measure the diameter exactly in thou with a caliper or micrometer.
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Thanks for the Mossie update Gary. Great work.
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Ok I think I have all my ducks in a row for the output shaft seals. On last question. Do I put anything on the seal carrier threads?
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Use a non-hardening sealer such as Hylomar or Permatex Aviation Gasket Maker #3.
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Thanks John I was thinking permatex
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Many years ago I read a novel that takes place during WWII about the inception of the Mosquito Bomber, unfortunately I can't remember the name of that book. If anyone saw the movie Monuments Men, all the stolen artwork was hidden in underground mines owned by Zeiss Optical. In the Novel I read, the first bombing mission of the Mosquito Bomber was Zeiss Optical in Germany. Zeiss made binoculars, periscopes and bomb sites, among other things, for the German war effort. They are still around today.
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I was going through parts and rediscovered these. Where do they go? There are no clues on my car.
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These are the badges that go on the rear quarters.
This BAT action shows them:
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-lotus-europa-2/
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Thanks John. But does anyone have measurements.
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Gary, my S2 has the badges in there original location. Please let me know how you want me to measure them and I will forward the dimensions.
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Sandman
Yes please if it isn't too much trouble.
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Gary, will do tomorrow. I will measure back from door and up from top of wheel well to the nearest edge.
Sandy
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Gary, as requested. Both sides are measured to leading edge of badges from door and to the bottom edge of badges from belt line crease. Left side "World champ" 39" back and 3 1/4" up. Right side "S2" 38 1/2" back and 3 3/8" up. Hope this helps.
Sandy
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Perfect thanks so much