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FS/WTB: Europa Parts and Stuff / Re: Pels adapter and Toyota 4age for europa
« Last post by jbcollier on Today at 08:02:02 AM »
No, it is for the Renault bell housing.  You could find a Renault bell housing for your 365 but most people fit a Zetec engine in a TC rather than the Toyota one.
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Garage / Re: Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by BDA on Today at 07:54:19 AM »
 :Welcome: johnn1493!!

Wish I could help you with your carb.

I know we’d all love to see pictures of your baby!
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Garage / Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Last post by dakazman on Today at 05:19:15 AM »
Ugly needs love too .
 See pic .
  Did I mention you can kick this hard with no damage ,shoot at windows without damage, Small caliber  of course .
  Still, I have my respect for the craftsmanship . 

  As for price point, as with everything nowadays is more expensive , hopefully prices will come down .  The “,Beast” is the most expensive and crazy fast .  I hit 70 in 3 sec on his , fast enough for me . Steering lock to lock in a one way street, easy , no k turn required.
D’man
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Garage / Re: Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by 4129R on Today at 04:08:21 AM »
Does the Weber have an air filter?

Dirty air filter will restrict oxygen and make the engine run richer.

If the mixture is rich, they start easier, but run too rich when hot.
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Garage / Weber 28/36 running too rich
« Last post by johnn1493 on Today at 04:01:32 AM »
Hi everyone
First post from me. I’ve a Series 2 with a stock 1470cc engine which is taking its first few runs after years off road. Over the last two years I have swapped the chassis and renewed most of the suspension etc. The engine received new liners from the previous owner and so I haven’t really touched that side other than changing fluids. All new fuel tank and lines and an electric fuel pump with regulator.
Starts reasonably well but black sooty exhaust. Plugs fouling up very quickly.
The 28/36 Weber looks relatively new. I’ve stripped and cleaned reset float height. Checked ignition timing, replaced plugs and coil.

All jet sizes are as per ford cortina 1500 settings in book.

Put all back but still running rich with sooty black smoke exhaust. Turning the idle adjustment screw seems not to make any difference.

Haven’t checked valve clearances yet or given it a compression test.

Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Thanks
John
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Garage / Re: Parking permanently in an enclosed trailer
« Last post by 4129R on Today at 03:03:11 AM »
"Q. What Causes Microblisters on GRP Bodywork and How it Can Be Prevented in Future. Is it a Peculiarity of Fibreglass in Damp Conditions?

A. We spoke to paint specialists at Western Spray of Crediton, Devon. They advised that microblistering is always a result of moisture that was already present in the primer coat or undercoat, regardless of the material the car’s made of or the paint system used. It can remain sequestered within the primer for years without harm – but as soon as the right conditions come together, it’s forced out and causes blisters in the top coat. If you pop a fresh blister, you’ll find it’s damp inside.

Sadly, rectification will involve stripping the top coat off. In theory, if the old primer is exposed in this way and then dried off, it can be painted over safely."

I think that popping about 300-400 paint spots and then repainting them and flatting them down and polishing them will make the car look a lot worse than it is.
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Garage / Re: 40 DCOE Webers flooding
« Last post by 4129R on Today at 02:24:55 AM »
Well there are 4 different sizes of float valves foe DCOE Webers, 150, 175, 200, and 300, so presumably, like the main jets, that equates to 1.5mm, 1.75mm etc.

QED tell me that a 1558 TC pushing out only 125bhp requires a 175 needle valve.

They told me that a standard mechanical fuel pump has been known to pump at too high pressure (3.5psi seems to be the limit) , so if new float chamber valves don't cure the flooding, my next thing to do would be to fit a fuel pressure limiter on the output from the fuel pump set to 3.5psi.
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Garage / Re: What a cluster
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 12:24:52 AM »
Quote from: EuropaTC on Monday,May 06, 2024, 09:21:30 AM

A banjo fitting would be perfect there but as you mentioned it's going to need machining. You might get away with a thick copper washer but personally I'd want a machined surface on the high pressure side of the system.

Yep, and from my limited research, the Wilwood M/C's seem to have have a flat machined surface on the single pressure port versions but others may not, I guess.

Found a 40 degree banjo fitting, though - bees knees?

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/100716/10002/-1
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Garage / Re: Restoration of 3940R
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 12:04:02 AM »
On sandblasting, I think it depends...

I did portions of my chassis with an old school 'home gamer' sand blaster attached to my air compressor. The unit essentially consists of a suction type paint spray gun with a hard steel nozzle. Apart from the fairly regular and irritating material pick-up issues, it worked fine.

Now, if considering a commercial outfit, those are often powerful enough to put a sheet steel seat into low earth orbit, so yeah, too aggressive.
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Garage / Re: Parking permanently in an enclosed trailer
« Last post by EuropaTC on Monday,May 06, 2024, 11:53:52 PM »
Quote from: 4129R on Monday,May 06, 2024, 11:36:57 PM
Have you just left them, or have you managed to find a way of getting rid of them?

My car has lots.

Sadly there's no way that I've heard of to remove them without going back to bare fibreglass. If you find something that works, post it as a stickie here !

A common problem with boats apparently and I even think I've seen references to paint problems with the Emira.  My Europa developed some blisters between 2005-11 when I didn't use it and it was stood in an outbuilding for months on end which resulted in a respray.   My S1 Elise developed a few very small blisters last year around the lower quarters. I've had it from new in '99 and it spent the first 5yrs outside and has been garaged ever since.  It's never had any paintwork so these are genuine Lotus blisters.

It's moisture coming through the fibreglass from the unsealed back of the panel. It's never happened on the Elan in over 45+yrs but the layup there is considerably thicker than either the Europa or Elise. You can get treatments to prevent it coming back and at some point, if the Elise gets unsightly, then I'll respray it and after stripping the paint I'll try to bake the panels before sealing the back.
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