Europa TCST

[TurboFource]

Figured I should make sure the turbo clears the chassis and engine bay bracing before I proceed....it does...barely....the T3 exhaust adapter I bought also will fit a T4 .... If I trim it to only the T3 size it will clear by about 3/4"  .       It looks like it will clear the body too.....still need to rebuild turbo and detail it!

[TurboFource]

I forgot to add the 1/2" larger clutch disc I installed...

[TurboFource]

-Trimmed up pipe turbo flange to T3 size except for one bolt hole that is for the turbo brace...half inch above chassis now  and it is 6 ounces lighter now 
- Working on tapered bearings for rear housings.....slightly complicated....more to follow

[BDA]

I'm interested in how you do your tapered roller bearings. Maybe you could do a writeup in the Technical Articles section.

[TurboFource]

Still working out the details BDA ..... hope to be done this week.

[TurboFource]

- Cleaned and painted shock and cross bracing.
- Tapered bearing sits "proud" of casting.
- Trailing arms will need to be cut to clear for assembly purposes, shouldn't be an issue since 1/8" thick backing plate bolts there also.
- Spacers need to be .084" longer to give .002" clearance for bearing axial clearance.
- My 3D printed seal holders need a 2.0 version, my son is bringing his printer home for Thanksgiving 

[BDA]

Don't you want the radius arm flanges to keep the bearings in the upright?

[TurboFource]

It will still overlap the bearing and I will put the piece removed back in place so it is sandwiched between the backing plate and housing to hold the bearing,
this is so you can slide the assembly in place between the two ears on the trailing arm.

[BDA]

Hmmm... Maybe some pictures as you're assembling it? A technical article would be nice! 

[TurboFource]

I was thinking.....the opposite side tapered bearing keeps the shaft from moving so there is no real need to contain the bearing race (except it's fit in the bore)....

[TurboFource]

- 3D printed version 2.0 seal holders. Seals glued in with oil resistant gasket sealer, the seals are multi-sided and will seal on the face of the bearing race and OD of stub axle hub (this would require different seals if you use the Lotus outer spacer which I eliminated for full spline engagement of the hubs).
- Bearing roller cage needs clearancing on outer bearings because there ain't much room. (One on right race has been beveled.)
- Using machine tool arbor spacers to set clearance so more wood lathe/grinder machining. (I wanted a tighter fit than the Lotus spacers that can move quite a bit).
- One side set (.002" end play)..... hopefully the other one Wednesday then assembly...

[TurboFource]

- There is .070" slop between ID of bearing spacer and stub axle OD...first 2 pics show how far off you can be
- Small cable tie is perfect thickness (.035" thick) to center spacer and keep it there.
- Waiting for sealant to dry on seal holders

Trailing arms modified for them to fit and cleaning up and painting front trailing arm bushings and hardware.

[TurboFource]

Ta da ..... tapered bearings in gear oil ....drain plugs, vent/fill plugs and "sight glasses" installed.

[jbcollier]

Nice!

But... not sure about using gear oil.  It's a good lubricant, no problem, but, if you develop any leaks on a long drive, you could easily toast your bearings.  Wheel bearing grease is a proven solution that works well and you don't have to keep checking the level.

[tedtaylor]

Nice!

But... not sure about using gear oil.  It's a good lubricant, no problem, but, if you develop any leaks on a long drive, you could easily toast your bearings.  Wheel bearing grease is a proven solution that works well and you don't have to keep checking the level.

Plus.....all that extra weight of additional parts!