Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: bert knip on Saturday,April 11, 2020, 04:56:20 PM
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As my Saab sonett Ii project is close to the finish, its time to start on my europa project.
Bought the car last winter and did not know much of europas until I joined this forum.
Got the car from craigslist here in ft Lauderdale, and it was a chassis, a body, a tranny with engine, chairs and doorpanels, new carpet and boxes with parts.
Also a lot of extra parts like bodyparts, suspensionparts which I try to sell to fund my project.
Already found missing parts like new stainless bumpers, wiperassembly, heatherbox, steeringwheel,and lots of smaller things.
As the chassis was on its way to become a trackcar, including rollcage, strenghtened rear suspension, and the engine and tranny are not original, I will go for a restoration with improvements to make it a usercar, more than a concours originalcar.
Last week I made a frame to replace the non disapeared firewall, which allowes tank removal from the inside, so no holes in the bottom!
Also improved the rusty safetybelt constuction, so that I can install retrackteble saftey belts.
Made a frame for the (new) dash, so that the steeringclolumn gets some structural strenght.
I will go for a S1 designdash, because its is much nicer, and with the removable panels easier to work on.
As I was looking at the engine compartiment I wondered why they made the rear wheelarches like they are.
It prevents air circulation around the engine, which seems to be a problem ,so I think of cutting then and make a aluminum flush from the rearlights to the fire wall.
Advantage I think would be better airflow in the engine compartment, more space around the engine (for working on it)
Or is there a good reason for how Colin made this.
Always in for good sugestions and out off the box thinking.
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Now's a good time to replace the outside seat belt anchor. I't likely really rough!
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They were all rusted through, so I removed them.
As you can see on the pics I made anchorpoints on the frame, one on the top and in the lower corner
I made plates to accomodate the retracktable rollers, just in front of the tank.
The frame (17 pounds weight gaine, but tons of strenght) will be glassed in the body.
Thats why the strips with the holes ( ikea) are welded on, so it connects the floor, the sides and the part under the rear window.
Also made anchorpoints for the gas tank (s), but probably only use one tank as for weight reduction.
Probably will put the battery in the other tank place, nice and low for gravity.
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Looks like this will be a fantastic project. That's a great idea of having access to the fuel tanks from the cockpit.
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Great job Bert,
Your firewall is exactly like mine. 😀 I went with 5 removable panel ( 2 on sides as top and bottom)
Will yours be just 3? I am also going to have a seal on the engine side of all the panels. Just to keep out fumes.
I also agree the S1 dash and seat surround look great and maybe more functional.
Keep posting 👍👍
Dakazman
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Bert, you've been busy!! Great work, i like what you've done with the bulkhead and dash. That will look great!
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Hi Dave,
My plan is to make 3 aluminum panels on the inside.
On the outside also 1 alu panel in the center, and then 2 panels on the sides to the rear wheel arches.
But my plans can change, on the job!
Also considered removing part of the wheel arches and making it flush to the rear lights.
Gives you more space , and it allowes better airflow around the engine.
But It will be less original, and maybe it is nicer to leave some of Colins mistakes in sight :deadhorse:
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Cool Saab Sonett.
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Hi Bert,
Your frame is perfect and I believe as long as the body is flat under the firewall glassing it in will be fine. The water comment I made was the water entering into the engine compartment and flowing into the cabin area under the frame. Since you’re going to glass the frame in you should be okay with your 2” lip. ( I have about a 1 1/2 “ lip at bottom. ) I may also add a larger drain in that area and by the fuel tank.
Can’t wait to see your glassed in pictures. 👍
Dakazman
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Hi Dave,
To avoid water coming in from the engineroom, I decided to fiberglass the body next to the tank (s) as wel as the firewall.
And thinking of alterering the rearwheelarches, so they will be flush, creating a better airflow around the engine. (And better acces to engine)
Also will fiberglass the gaps in front off the rear wheels, and those in front of the doors, so no water can enter there anymore, and adding strenght to the body.
Will make pictures to illustrate the progress.
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Hey Bert, Other members have cautioned blocking the rear wheel access to engine compartment. I too even made the panels to block off wheel wells. Apparently air flows into the engine compartment around engine and up thru the boot. Not aft thru the rear screen. I planned on making a snorkel and add fans at the rear screen to push air out. Where you are going to seal up blocks air flow , and I too have removable panels made for that wall you can see them on my thread. I still may go down that road but after I get body back on frame and engine running.
Dave
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Hi Dave,
I took pics to show you what I did with the wheel arches, to make it more watertight and stronger, and nicer.
To get to the doorcatcher, I will make holes just behind the frame.
In the engine compartiment I will remove the humps (front part) of the wheelarches and the horizontale fiberglass above the radiusarms.
And closing the sides where the tank s are.
This will make the car more watertight, and will improve airodynamics in the engine compartiment.
Also bought 2 8" fans to put in the rear.
Looks like we looking in the same direction improving our cars :beerchug:
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If you're trying to blow air out of the engine compartment at the rear, where the license plate sits, then those fans will be working against the natural flow of air which is trying to come in to the engine compartment there. It might be better just to block that area off. I suppose you could consider putting fans in the vent holes in the engine cover (boot/trunk/lid/thing).
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That could also be a solution, but I think the 2 fans will be much more powerfull than the natural flow.
And like I described I want to change the airodynamics in the engine compartiment.
I think, making it more open, above the radius arms, and maybe even making small scoops next to the radius arms, can make a big improvement.
Maybe it is an idea to place the fans there, sucking in air from underneath, that can also feed the carbs.
I am alway happy with input to get to good solutions.
Also have been looking to improve the front air intake, and am thinking to make openings in the bottom in front of the seem, where the spoiler is.
I do not have a spoiler yet, but I guess it would scoop up air for the radiator.
Because the holes will be in the bottom you don t see them.
Also planning to change ventilation/heather system, so that the air will be sucked in from the left wheel arch or the bottom.
That way all the incoming air is to be used by the radiator (I have 2 8" fans there)
I will keep you posted, Bert
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Sorry for not posting reguarly, but I have been fiberglassing!
Because pics say more than words I have made some.
New design engine compartment, with much better airflow.
Adjusted pedalbox, so there is space for a standing trottle, and much more space for my size 12.
I placed a chair in to experience the difference, with the new firewall frame. I am 6'3" and have 2" between my head and the roof.(no headliner).
Also made crashpad and glove box.
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I don't know how you did it but it does look like you could get a size 12 shoe in there! :beerchug:
Good stuff, Bert!
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Well it would be a bad idea to put a lot of work into a project, which you can t enjoy yourself.
And sometimes there are simple solutions to poor design, fiberglass is a forgiving material.
Backdraw of this modification is that if you want to remove the upper suspension,you will have to cut into the fiberglass.( or lift the body)
But as I am installing polybushings, they will at least 10+ years, its worth while.
Better maybe once having to cut the fiberglass, than not being able to use the pedals seperatly.
Maybe it devaluates the value of the car, but on the otherhand it makes it possible for taller people to enjoy the car.
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Wow Bert, pictures do say more. You really did a lot of glasswork and I’m looking forward to your innovations. The glove box and crash pad a definite improvement. I’ll have a post my glass console pics for you.
Dakazman
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Next were those stupid doorhinges.
Cut the pins, and saved the parts that go in the door.
I read a lot about the hinges here on this fabulous forum, and one remark I remember is that most of the solutions brought up, do not solve all the problems.
One of the problems is the wear of the bobbins, when things rust up.
So I intalled polybushings, by drilling 20mm (yes I am from europe) through the bobbins.
Then installed polybushings from a Triumph Spitfire front suspension, because the have the same innersize as the pins.
Because I wanted stainless pins, I made some of a pressure cleaner wand.
Also chose to use 4 pins, so now I can remove the door without help, and without having to jack up the car.
This made the holes in the rockers obselete, so I closed them.
To prevent the top pins falling out I made provisions as seen on pictures.
This also makes that the pins do not turn in the doors, but in the polybushings.
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Restauration is on hold, since we got back to the Netherlands.
Will be continued next winter I hope.
Keep on the good work!
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Bert ,
creative answer to the door hinges. I just would have indented that J section to hold the pins in.
Glad you made it back home. PM me when your coming back.
Dakazman