Lotus Europa Forums > Members Cars
70 S2 0044Q
dakazman:
It’s amazing how our stories all start about 40 years ago. Love at first site, it’s contagious for this unique automobile. A rich racing history is also a bonus. Keep your paint scheme, it’s a real icon.
Keep posting , with pictures of that new frame and suspension it will be awesome.
Dakazman
BDA:
The Spyder frame is a good choice: improved access to everything, more advanced rear suspension, and support for pretty much any tranny. I suspect that after paying a local welding shop to repair yours, you could have been pretty far down the road to paying for a Spyder and not have the advantages. I hope you get it soon. Until then you can do body work and clean up parts. Fiberglass is pretty easy to work with. I think I would take all the paint off and have the same scheme repainted on your car. A random orbital sander and a lot of paper would get you going.
Good luck and post lots of pictures!
Clifton:
I commend you for taking on such a project. You have a lot of work, stay on it. You'll like the dual master. You can get a nice pedal pressure with the bore options and easily adjust bias. The pic on the trailer kind of looks like a type 54. Keep the pics coming, we love seeing them even if we don't comment.
Sandyman:
Thanks for all the encouragement. My Europa is a type 54 with the 1.5 L engine(697-04) and the 4 speed (336-56). Certified, I will have blown my budget once I get the car on the road, repaint will have to wait a couple of years. Spyder is also supplying stainless steel coolant tubes so all I have to source is a new aluminum rad. (Ebay has some good options.) The PO had started to work on the car. He managed to get the engine running. The car only has 29,000 miles on it so the Engine and transmission should not have to much wear. When I got the Europa home I wanted to run the engine for myself. Topped up the Coolant and turned her over. Yes, she runs! Just like a happy puppy she pee"d all over the place. Coolant mostly but some oil as well. Upon draining the coolant it looked more like chunky chocolate milk well past its best before date. Transfer tubes rotted through in many places, gaskets leaking or missing. no thermostat. no option but to strip her down. pull the power train and start fixing.
jbcollier:
Before starting it the next time, re-torque the head bolts and reset the valve clearances. Following the torque pattern, loosen and re-torque one head bolt at a time. Mark each bolt head and it should at least go back to where it was. Make sure you fill and bleed the cooling system properly. These engines are very tough but DO NOT TOLERATE BEING OVERHEATED !!
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