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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by BDA on Today at 04:33:23 PM »
I used a fan controller like this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN4XZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It includes a relay and lets you dial in the temperature when the fan starts. It doesn't require an otter or other switch because it has a temperature probe that goes between the fins of the radiator.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by Cheguava on Today at 04:17:48 PM »
Been derailed by some serious dentistry, having been given strict instructions about limiting physical effort I've left the doors until I've healed a bit. Instead of which, I managed to get the dash out, and can look at it in all its (ahem) glory. Crash pad looks ok, but might get a covering of vinyl to freshen it up. Fascia panel has me in two minds, I'm not a fan of the OE lacquered floorboard look, and although the walnut veneer looks ok, i might try stripping the panel back and painting it matt / satin black.

So, onto stupid question time. My radiator was crumbling to bits as I removed it, but as luck would have it there was a Europa rad on eBay which looked decent, even had a Spal fan fitted (mine looked like it had been submerged with the Titanic). It arrived today, and is in evidently good nick, but doesn't have a hole for the Otter switch - it has an indented circle where it would be fitted but no hole. So I was wondering if everyone on here had an otter switch, or is there an alternative to switch on your fan when the radiator gets... otter?  And yes, I am getting ahead of myself buying parts at the strip down stage, but it was retail therapy.

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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 03:47:13 PM »
Hmmm… I would tend to believe Dave but you might consider asking Ken Grey at DBE  or Ray at r.d. for their opinion or ask a machinist what he thinks. I also wonder about welding a bush in the upright. You wouldn’t have the stress of pressing the bush in but I’m pretty sure the upright is heat treated so that might be a problem. Anyway, it seems worth a try. After all it sounds like you’re going to need another upright anyway so you don’t have much to lose.
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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by cazman on Today at 02:59:29 PM »
Yea, the axles seemed fine. The play is definitely from the hole. I do not know why I never checked before. Like you said it is a tight fit (even now), until everything is apart and you put only the bolt back in without the shock and link. Then the bolt wobbles. Its worn like an inverted cigar. The center is tight, but the ends are enlarged.
I was thinking of an aluminum bushing too. I can make my own and get a perfect fit. The other reason I asked is that I read (I think in Dave Bean's catalog that you cannot bush the bearing housing for a bearing - it has been tried and cracks.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 02:14:26 PM »
Thanks Dave - living in the antipodes, I never really came across a "Bonney wrench".
My old Scottish uncle used to tell me about a 'bonny wench' engendering similar constrictions.... so perhaps that's where the confusion set in.  ;)
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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 02:10:19 PM »
I say it's serious in that it is unusual (I'm unaware of anyone else complaining about that hole being worn) and could denote a problem such as being hit or improper assembly/disassembly. That 1/2" bolt shouldn't rotate or otherwise move once installed. I've had mine in and out several times and they still require a hammer and punch to get them out of upright.

Of course, that's not to say that it can't be worn (or that the next time I have to take mine apart, it might won't be worn!) and if yours is, I would certainly have a bush pressed in. I think I would have an aluminum bush pressed in. Given that the bolt should be tight in the hole (bush) I might worry that the steel bolt might "grab" a steel bush and when pounding the bolt in or out, it might tend to drive the steel bush with it. On the other hand I might be worrying about noting and steel would be fine. I would consult the person installing the bush.

I would also always use anti-seize when installing the bolt and I would always back it up when tightening or loosening the nut on it.

In any case, checking the condition of the hole should be easy enough and if you've done everything else, it would be a good next check.

Have you checked the condition of your stub-axles? I found one of mine was worn from the bearing (see attached picture). I would expect that you would notice something like that when you changed the bearings but it caught me by surprise.
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Must be some really valuable stickers. Can't see anything else that could possibly explain doubling the price into the stratosphere.

Actually, I do wonder what is hiding UNDER all those stickers. Every time this car gets posted, which has been over several years now, it is ten tons of hyperbole. AKA BS.
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Garage / Re: What are we missing, what should I make on a VMC?
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 01:53:56 PM »
With a 3-D printer and some stamping dies...
Sounds like a business case for ash tray customers.  8)
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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by cazman on Today at 01:46:10 PM »
Shims are good. This is the last piece in the system that I never looked at closely. Every other part is new and in spec. I suspect that this was worn all along and the other things were just normal maintenance. The wheels have done this since I have had it.

Why do you say it is so serious - because the housing are hard to get and expensive? As far as the play, it seems on par with a worn bushing as far as safety/performance goes.
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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 11:17:42 AM »
If you have play for the lower link/lower shock mount bolt in the upright, that is very serious. The remedy would be to sleeve the hole with something but that should be a rare occurrence I would think. I think normally, any play there would come from the rubber bushes in the lower link and the lower shock mount bush. Looking at your previous posts, unless the rubber bushes are in obviously poor shape, they wouldn't be the cause of the play you experience at the wheel.

The thing you haven't mentioned is the shims between the inner u-joint and the tranny. Is that properly shimmed?
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