#460002 - Restoration

[Serge]

Uploaded another video, the subject isn't that exciting this time. I restore the wiper motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CxLW6xkKL0&t=872s

Enjoy!

Serge

[lotusfanatic]

Hi Serge,

YouTube had already suggested the video to me!

Thanks for the video, they’re all of interest to me!

Mark

[Serge]

Next video will focus on the body. I have been working on the fiberglass repairs for the last 6 months, and I am now doing the front left corner and it is pushing me. I am not sure if I will pull this one off. I tried to get a repair section locally, but wasn't that easy. Shipping from the UK put me off for such a large piece.

It had been damaged quite badly and the repair was not great, so I am redoing all the repairs. Quite succesful as of yet. Hopefully this one will turn out OK too.

Serge

[lotusfanatic]

Hello Serge,

I’ve messaged you...

Mark

[jbcollier]

A few comments on overhauling wiper motors:

- Take photos so you know which way the wheel box fits.  Dunno about your luck but I usually get a 50/50 wrong.

- The field coil housing needs to be marked so it goes on the same way.  Some are indexed but not all.  So mark it to be sure.

- They are a bit on the weak side.  We used to rewind the armature with more coils for a little more oomph.

- The large wiper gear has a cam on the reverse side which operates the park switch.  I'm sure you did this but the gear needs to be removed, cleaned and the bushing and cam greased.

- The rack should not be stiff in the housing at all.  I did not like how yours was working even after it was greased.  It is just ordinary tubing (imperial) with simple single flares at each end so it is easy to make up another.

- The circlip you broke does not like to be spread. Just slip in one side and then press down on the other to fit.  It won't break that way.

- Both the armature bushings have felts that need to be oiled prior to reassembly.

- There is a ball bearing in the non-gear end of the armature.  You need to be careful that it stays in place.  Use some light grease to hold it and to lube it during operation.

- The armature has an endplay adjustment.  It is critical to smooth, long-lasting operation.  You want virtually zero-play with no preload.  It's tricky to adjust because the large gear and the field magnets also provide resistance.  So, it's better to fit the armature before fitting the rack cable and housing.  I also usually run the motor at this stage to make sure it runs easy and free without play.

[Serge]

Thank you, John! Looks like I need to revisit the wiper motor again! I haven't gone through all of the above steps!

You live and learn!

Serge

[jbcollier]

Use an industrial single coat paint rather than the three part system you are using now.  I use Rustoleum semi-gloss black to good effect.

[BDA]

When I was building my car, I took mine apart and it seemed to go back together okay and seems to work ok, but now I'm thinking I should take mine apart and rebuild it using your instructions, John! Thanks for them!

[Bainford]

Thanks for the presentation, Serge. I'll check it out when I get to a computer that can view youtube. I have been having issues with my wipers, so I'm sure your video will come in very handy. Cheers.

[dakazman]

Serge

Next video will focus on the body. I have been working on the fiberglass repairs for the last 6 months, and I am now doing the front left corner and it is pushing me. I am not sure if I will pull this one off. I tried to get a repair section locally, but wasn't that easy. Shipping from the UK put me off for such a large piece. 

Keep moving forward , bodywork is a time sucker and I’m sure you can push thru it. 😅
In a way you are putting your signature on it, thru the rest of its life. Post some pics.

Your video’s are an inspiration to the community and you need an Southern,” At a boy”.

Dave

[Serge]

Thank you all for the advice and the kind words! Helps to keep me going!

In this video I show you all of the repairs that we have to do. Most of them are done at this point, but this I'll show this in the future.

https://youtu.be/5Xdp31tSdTE

Enjoy!

Serge

[BDA]

That's a lot of work! One thing I'd mention, and something I wish I had done, is that it would be a good idea to strengthen the top of the A-pillar where it meets the roof. At least on the TC, that seems to be a weak point.

Covering the entire care in veil, or gauze, or whatever you want to call it (light weight mat). You mentioned fabric. I figured you misspoke but just in case you didn't, I wanted to warn you against using fiberglass cloth. It is pretty much impossible to get rid of the weave. It bleeds through the paint.

Another great video, Serge! Just remember not to fiberglass the cat! 

[jbcollier]

+1 on the A pillar reinforcing on all Europas.  Mine cracked when I was fitting the windshield!

[buzzer]

BDA serge, to cover fibreglass repairs and repairs where the gel coat has been removed. It’s referred to here as tissue. And it is almost like tissue paper. Use it effectively to replace the gel coat.

[Serge]

Yes, I meant tissue. I will be using 80gr/m2, just a bit heavier than tissue.

This is not to replace the gelcoat, because gelcoat doesnt have any strength.

The tissue is meant to reinforce the surface, to prevent any repairs or star-cracks to show through. You essentially treat the entire body as one big crack. Remove the gelcoat and apply tissue with resin (polyester resin unlike epoxy doesnt have any real strength.) The actual surface will be sealed with a sprayable polyester body filler, in stead of gelcoat. I am using the Miles Wilkins book as a guide.

Reinforcing the A pillar is on my to-do list!

Serge