Author Topic: #460002 - Restoration  (Read 68022 times)

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Offline BDA

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #180 on: Thursday,March 29, 2018, 05:26:40 AM »
BDA serge, to cover fibreglass repairs and repairs where the gel coat has been removed. It’s referred to here as tissue. And it is almost like tissue paper. Use it effectively to replace the gel coat.

Right, buzzer. I more often heard it called veil or gauze but it's they're the same thing as tissue.

Offline GavinT

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #181 on: Thursday,March 29, 2018, 08:32:25 AM »
Not quite the same thing but both are primarily intended help hide the course strands of the heavier chopped strand mat.
That said, people do seem to use the terms interchangeably.

I used the same as Serge - 80gr/m2 tissue.
Tissue is maddeningly wispy in use but the 80gr/m2 stuff is a bit better.

I couldn’t find any 80gr/m2 locally and ended up buying a 100 meter roll direct from the manufacturer . . and obviously still have about 90 meters left.

But veil . . now that’s the stuff to use I reckon.
It’s so much better behaved than tissue.

Here’s a pic I stole from the interwebs.
Note the lower left corner -  “Knit Veil”.

Offline GavinT

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #182 on: Thursday,March 29, 2018, 09:18:11 AM »
G’day Serge,

Great video as always.
Your body doesn’t look too bad actually; have seen a lot worse.

Those red patches around the left headlamp appear to be fibreglass reinforced filler?
It’s really good stuff actually but looks like they used it more liberally than I’d have liked.

It’s difficult to be certain about how the repair was performed as the camera is moving, of course. You might be able to grind the red stuff right back and find the original pieces under where and they just skimmed it with the reinforced filler.

Keep at it, mate.  :)

Offline Serge

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #183 on: Thursday,March 29, 2018, 09:32:50 AM »
I don’t think it’s filler, doesn’t feel that way when sanding. Looks like a red tinted resin. It doesn’t look top bad, but once you get into it, sometimes there isn’t any good material left. Left front is almost entirely made from the stuff. But I’ll be able to show you how and why in one of the next videos.

Main theme here is:
Find a small corner that you don’t like,
Start peeling, remove the whole repair (surface wasn’t keyed or cleaned, lots of dirt and paint underneath)
Repair again, properly.

But most of it is okay,
Left front is the main issue,
Headlight section is salvageable, but a lot of work.
The part below the bumper I’ll remake using a pattern made from the right side.

Serge

Offline lotusfanatic

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #184 on: Wednesday,April 04, 2018, 10:39:52 PM »
if you should find that it’s beyond salvaging as it is, maybe a section from a broken car (or a new repair section) can be grafted into place?
Mark

Offline Jerryh

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #185 on: Saturday,April 07, 2018, 01:47:40 AM »
Serge
Try Boss Motors in Norfolk UK he'll make the section you need for the front, don't think he's got any S1 moulds but the early S2 will be the same profile. Call Mick 01953 850522

Offline 4129R

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #186 on: Saturday,April 07, 2018, 05:08:56 AM »
S1 shells in his front yard.

Offline Serge

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #187 on: Saturday,April 07, 2018, 10:50:36 AM »
Thank you al for the help and advice. I think I might be able to repair it without the repair section. A few more days in the workshop will be decisive.

Serge

Offline BDA

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #188 on: Saturday,April 07, 2018, 11:15:35 AM »
Good luck, Serge! I hope you're successful!

Offline Serge

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #189 on: Sunday,May 20, 2018, 11:42:23 PM »
For those who don't follow the facebook group, I've uploaded a new video. In this video I deal with the dreaded door hinges!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQpXjrPaYDE

PS: The fiberglass work is going well! Only some minor adjustments needed in the headlamp area. Lower left corner still needs replacing, but I think the moulds I took will work. Now repairing the centre of the nose.
« Last Edit: Sunday,May 20, 2018, 11:44:09 PM by Serge »

Offline Nockenwelle

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #190 on: Monday,May 21, 2018, 05:18:54 AM »
Hi Serge,

I did watch some of your videos and the latest one where you remove the door. You are really my die-hard Europa S1 restoration hero :trophy:
Your car does need an awful lot of work and you just keep going on. My deep respect for your patience and stamina.

I'm not located that far away from you as I am living between Aachen and Köln. So maybe we can meet one day when both of our cars a running.

Klaus

Offline Serge

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #191 on: Monday,May 21, 2018, 06:28:55 AM »
Thank you for the kind words, Klaus. I only live an hours drive from Aachen, so if the car I finished we need to meet up!

Serge

Offline TCS4605R

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #192 on: Monday,May 21, 2018, 05:13:17 PM »
Serge - I found the same red stuff on my car when sanding off the old paint and primer - the red stuff was under the primer.  I think it was the original gelcoat or whatever Lotus used as a release agent from the molds.

Tom
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Offline TCS4605R

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #193 on: Monday,May 21, 2018, 05:34:39 PM »
Serge - when I did fiberglass repair on my car, I applied three layers of 3/4 oz. fiberglass matt under the front fenders to keep rocks thrown up from the front wheels from cracking the paint.  I also plan on glueing a 1/4 inch layer of closed cell rubber sheet under the fenders than cushion the rock hits.  You might consider doing this.

Tom
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Offline Serge

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Re: #460002 - Restoration
« Reply #194 on: Monday,May 21, 2018, 10:08:19 PM »
Tom,

The red stuff is almost certainly red tinted resin and not original. Only present on area’s that have very obviously been (badly) repaired.

Original paint on my car were: light grey gelcoat, thock white resin based sealed layer, dark grey primer, Lotus yellow top coat.

I’m following the Miles Wilkins fiberglass book, and he suggests just using stoneguard to coat the inside of the wheel wells. I will be following his advice, that book is the fiberglass bible.

Serge