Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Members Cars => Topic started by: Chuck Nukem on Saturday,November 08, 2014, 05:49:55 PM
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Well gentlemen with out further delay I am pleased to present to you the newest member of my family. An S1A cut down in the prime of it's life.
I can't believe what a stroke of luck I had as it was less than 30 miles from my house. I hope I can find out more about the car. Unfortunately the vin was removed so until I discover scrawling on a door frame I will remain in the dark.
Supposedly it was taken apart in 1975....and sat as it does now with one exception. The previous owner cut the frame out of the body in the early 2000's and from the looks of it that is where my job is going to start...The body is hacked up pretty good. The frame is a write off. I am going to take a page out of Roddy Mac's book and do a tube frame on this one. Don't expect much for a while though, the TC arrived first and is going to be finished first! I have gotten myself in to a love triangle now...
She is lovely to look at though...
Serge, I am going to need some help from you brother!
I officially joined the nut house today :trophy:
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She obviously has a lot of potential and will be a great project but Chuck, you're in deep now! An S1 AND a TC!
Good luck and try to give us pictures when you can.
:lotus:
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The Europa seems to have a life cycle matching that of the Cicada. Emerging every 17 years from their resting places to prey upon an unsuspecting host. There is no known cure for the bite of the Europa, but usually the host will survive, by investing all it's spare time & money loving & nurturing it back to it's original beauty. Having been bitten twice you will have to be especially careful to fend off the dreaded Europa killer, (they usually resemble a wife or significant other). But do not fear, you are in excellent company here!
Good luck & keep us posted, especially if your symptoms worsen! :FUNNY:
Great find!!! :trophy:
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The serial number is also on the frame. In the S1's case, it is on a plate riveted to the right frame "Y" near where the seatbelt anchor brace fastens. There is also a body number marked on on the "water gutter" in the engine compartment under the rear window. Unfortunately, the body number and frame numbers do not match.
Any old registration documents with the frame number recorded? Old license plate you can do a registration search on? If you can find the original number, there are new ID plates available and adding the number to the frame is simple as well.
An early S2 frame can be easily (moderately) modified to S1 spec.
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I do have an old Texas plate from 1970. I will check the frame more thoroughly next time I am by it. Jbcollier, I hope you don't mind me asking you a few (thousand) questions along the way! That is very good to know about the S2 frame. By early S2 do you mean type 54? The more time I spend with this car the more I appreciate its construction. The body is far more robust than the twin cam. Here is a good interior shot to share the horror with you all. I really don't have much to work with. Would an S2 front section graft in there? I fear that it would be too different. I have some of the pieces that were cut out but I am sure that most is missing.
I have just about everything excluding the tail lights...which is unfortunate because I know what people ask for those...
I am really looking forward to this one.
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Any S2 frame will do but the earlier ones with the straight rear upper a-arm match right up. The later style with the offset rear upper a-arm just require changing the a-arm locating-tubes, not a big deal really. A 54 front body section "should" match up but the raised headlamp pods of the 65 won't (depending on where you are cutting). Besides, 65 headlight pods on a 46 would be an abomination and would undoubtedly lead to some sort of wretched existence in the after-life.
Your dash looks way better than mine. On mine the gauges were all corroded and unusable.
The S1 body is much, much stronger, and better built, than the S2 and TC bodies. I don't know much about it but I believe the S1, and perhaps early S2, bodies were not manufactured in house and, therefore, not subject to the usual Lotus production economies.
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I promise the forum that no bastardized S2 high headlamp wart speckled front end will ever find its way on to this car as long as I live!
I was only planning on replacing the sections that were removed. For the front of the car that is essentially the footwells and the front section of the tunnel. So much material was cut away under there that the nose of the car sags a bit. How closely does that part of the car form to the frame? When I get a frame could I possibly just fiberglass around it? Here are some more detailed shots of the front underbelly.
I feel that this area is the major crux of the project.
Does anyone know offhand what the reasonable torque/hp limit of the 336 transaxle is? Not that I am planning anything ;)
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I got the title today and it looks like the mystery is solved! The car is 460392! Found at last! I will have to email Andy at lotus and find out the scoop on my car. It looks like it might have been red at one point. I also got the TAIL LIGHTS!!!! :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: :trophy: Dodged that bullet!
It looks like the S2 and S1 have different bodywork in the lower front/wheel well compartment. I will have to rebuild mine from scratch.
Its all I can do to keep from drooling all over those Carello tail lights...they are like wonderful little sculptures
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Congrats x 2!!! :pirate:
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Congrats on the lights!
Lots of photos online of what an S1 should look like for when you go fix the body.
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Here's some to get you started:
http://lotus-europa2.com/picview.asp?page=460202-1
http://lotus-europa2.com/picview.asp?page=460149
http://lotus-europa2.com/picview.asp?page=460089
(wrong interior though nicely done)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/minors-family/sets/72157629091242925/
http://ceratoseuropa363.shawwebspace.ca
http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/0363_2005.html
http://lotus-europa.com/europa24fps/0363_2003.html
http://lotus-europa2.com/picview.asp?page=460323
http://pages.infinit.net/amphilot/anglais/lotuseuropes1bis.htm
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Thanks a million JB! That clears a lot up!! It looks as though I may not be too far off after all.
Does anyone know what kind of wheels are on that white S1B? I think I saw that exact car for sale on ebay a few months back and really took a liking to those wheels.
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This white one:
http://lotus-europa2.com/picview.asp?page=460323
Those are the stock steel wheels, hub caps and trim rings.
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Sorry, I meant this white one https://www.flickr.com/photos/minors-family/sets/72157629091242925/
I have the stock wheels
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Chuck, How goes the restoration? It has been 5 years. I have a Type 54 chassis that needs front "T" metal work. I am replacing it with a Spyder Chassis. Would you be interested?
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Sandyman,
Thank you very much for thinking of me! I wish I was within striking distance of you, but sadly I am all the way down in TX. For the moment my S1 is quite a ways down on the list. Like you I am also contemplating a tube frame. This decision and many others still await.
Did you buy the type 54 from a gentleman in Minnesota?
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Hi Chuck. I bought my 54 in North Bay ON. 3 hrs north of me. The car 0044Q, built in January 70, was sold in Hamilton ON. some time in 71 according to Lotus records. 29,000 miles on odometer first owners plate still on car tagged 1978. Blowing my kids inheritance on a Spyder Chassis and new suspension. Hope you can find the time to work on yours.
All the best,
Sandy
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Looking out at my Europa this morning.
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Sandyman, that's so sad!
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That is quite a sight Sandy! Mine have an easy life in the garden as shelter for animals at the moment. I hope to have my carport done in the next month to give them proper shelter. They vex me from the kitchen window every time I look outside. I think the worst part of house projects are knowing all the other fun and productive things you could be doing if only you didn't have to fix this....
I wait with anticipation to see the fruits of your children's future funneled towards a proper cause!
It is probably fortunate that I don't have children. There is a fable about children who live in a giant shoe. My progeny would be forced to live in Europas!
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Chuck, Don't worry to much about the Europa. Once it is together it will live in the barn in the background. I just have to find space for the snowblower, lawn tractor etc etc....
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Chuck , I walked past one on the garage for 25 years. Hopefully you will come up with a remedy for this temporary situation. Carports are big down here .
Dakazman
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Sandyman, you need to move West! My Europa, a Lotus I would love to own and a Ford GT MK IV in Portland. What an era the 60's were. Come on out!
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1970 we are hijacking Chucks space Email me please
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The storm rages again!! My car was somewhat red an hour ago! Now it is reduced to primer! I was attacked by 2 spiders while sanding that looked suspiciously like brown recluses. They died the death of peasants under my foot.
I am thinking about trying a new strategy to mend the stress cracks on this car. On my TCS I sanded all the paint down and then began the arduous process of grinding all the cracks out of the bare fiberglass. I used fiberglass cloth & veil to fill these cracks and then I sanded the material flat.
On this S1A I am thinking about leaving the paint on it while I repair all the cracks which are visible through the paint. I will try sanding the paint down within a 4-6" area around the crack, grinding it out, and use the tiger hair filler to patch it. Has anyone had disastrous results with this or a similar method? I have gotten to the point on my TCS that the fiberglass veil does not seem to add much benefit over the tiger hair as the repairs are now sow small. Tiger hair is easier to work with and seems to be a pretty solid repair. If it was a really deep stress crack or tear I would fill with glass mat.
The first two pics are examples.
The first is of a crack through the paint. What is your preferred method here?
The second is of cracks visible in bare fiberglass. I am operating under the assumption that these will eventually come through the paint. Is that correct?
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I promise the forum that no bastardized S2 high headlamp wart speckled front end will ever find its way on to this car as long as I live!
I was only planning on replacing the sections that were removed. For the front of the car that is essentially the footwells and the front section of the tunnel. So much material was cut away under there that the nose of the car sags a bit. How closely does that part of the car form to the frame? When I get a frame could I possibly just fiberglass around it? Here are some more detailed shots of the front underbelly.
I feel that this area is the major crux of the project.
Does anyone know offhand what the reasonable torque/hp limit of the 336 transaxle is? Not that I am planning anything ;)
Just to document this in the thread, one intention of buying this second S1A 460468 was so that I could take a mold of the front section and use it to repair 460392 which suffered a botched surgery at the hands of the previous owner.
Not to go down a rabbit hole but I also have the back half of a TCS in my possession...A TCS with an S1 nose would be mightiest looking TCS of all time in my opinion.
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Hi Chuck,
Nice to see you working on the S1 , I Love the early models.
Pic 1 crack bevel the underside of the crack first a good 1”. Stop drill the tip of the crack. Get yourself some 6” Aluminum tape. tape the top side of the crack following the original contour Don push into crack, you only need a thin piece of tape on top. Mix up a mixture of resin and soak a piece of fiberglass mat. Throw away the cloth, please. Now on a new precut piece of the 6” tape place the piece of matting on the sticky side the shape of a he crack. Tape it in place. Pushing it in place and into the crack gently. Let dry with all the tape in place. After dry peel off tape and now sand or file down top and bevel and work some matting to the topside.
Done
The spider cracks stop drill ends . Dremmel out the line but don’t go completely thru , use the veil or a slurry of the matting.
The hairline cracks, use the veil over the entire surface. I have not use the veil and don’t know about the tiger stuff. Do a few tests, bring outside in the sun and bake the primer. If you have some finish paint , spray another test finish. I also used a epoxy sealer .
Sorry about the gory details and long windedness
Dakazman
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Dman,
Thanks for the reply. I have decided to try and tackle the bodywork for both cars before spring hits so that I can paint them in succession. One problem with this approach is that I don't see any final results until both are painted. I misspoke when I said cloth, I meant mat. That aluminum tape is a good idea. I will give it a shot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9HbPP8A0Fo&t=135s
This vid is a little bit more boat related, but I have been using this method for the crack removal and fiber layup. I don't use the gelcoat or epoxy filler that he does.
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Great video Chuck.
The deeper parts he added material to is perfect for the spiderwebbed cracks but the body crack needs to be repaired top and bottom.
It’s a lot better when you plan the paint jobs together and stagger sanding, primer, glass work with the weather conditions also. Wait for a nice dry day for final paint.
Keep the posts and pictures coming.
Dakazman
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Status update... Majority of the stress cracks have been filled and most of the paint has been removed. I will probably not bother sanding the bottom (white) layer of primer off as it seems to be well adhered. My goal for the month is to have this thing ready for primer (extra lofty goal is to have the TCS in that stage as well... we will see) Both cars are due to be flipped upside down soon for crack repairs on the floor and wheel arches.
To complement my bobbin woes of the TCS it appears the door bobbin on this S1A suffered damage on the body side.
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Great work, Chuck! Working on two, and especially different models, must be a real challenge that will only get more challenging as you get into their differences! Keep us posted!
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Chuck, the doors are still off my type 54.would you like me to take pictures and measurements of the bobbin locations?
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Thanks Sandyman. It would help to have a good visual on the bobbin orientation in the door.
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No problem Chuck, will do tonight. Which door? Top and or bottom?
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Drivers door, bottom bobbin. Thank you!
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Chuck, here are the pictures you wanted. Plus a bonus for your shop.
Sandy
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Nice! Thanks Sandyman! AvE is funny...and useful too it turns out!
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I have been watching some videos by an aircraft guy named Mike Patey. He introduced me to a product called "micro" which are micro glass spheres which you mix with resin to make a light weight filler. I used them for the first time today to fill the gap between my firewall and the body so that I am glassing to a solid on both sides. They work really well and are VERY light weight! Check out his videos if you haven't before he uploads some great content on hot roding airplanes!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSvdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSvdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg)
I got the bobbin secured tonight. Should be on track to flip the car this weekend.
Thanks for the help guys!
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Self quarantine they say... work from home they say... Don't mind if I do!
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I have been watching some videos by an aircraft guy named Mike Patey. He introduced me to a product called "micro" which are micro glass spheres which you mix with resin to make a light weight filler. I used them for the first time today to fill the gap between my firewall and the body so that I am glassing to a solid on both sides. They work really well and are VERY light weight! Check out his videos if you haven't before he uploads some great content on hot roding airplanes!
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSvdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSvdee86uThqIrloZjWwNVg)
I got the bobbin secured tonight. Should be on track to flip the car this weekend.
Thanks for the help guys!
Hello Chuck,
Microspheres (miniscule, hollow, glass beads) are used extensively in the aviation business, they are mixed with resins to secure threaded inserts, bobbins or similar mounting points into composite or honeycomb aircraft panels. In their raw state they resemble bread flour and it's highly advisable to wear a suitable respirator when handling them as they easily become airborne when disturbed (such as when mixing)
We use local exhaust ventilation to remove and filtrate the dust away...
That aside, great stuff, very strong and very light!
Mark
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Update for the week!
I have just about managed to get all the red paint off my latest S1A. I am on my least favorite part of sanding the boot and bonnet channels, door hinge cavities, and other tight spaces! I am converting the doors to S1 spec because the original windows were missing and the slots to store the pop out windows had been mangled previously.
I have repaired about 95% of all the stress cracks. The last major hurdle is reconstructing the rear section of the car. It was damaged previously and the repair left something to be desired... Luckily my green S1A is mostly there in that regard, so I have fixed the cracks in its rear in order to take a mold of it to create a reproduction tail panel. I have also been sanding the boot and bonnet from the green S1A to prepare them as plugs for molding since my red car did not come with either.
Priming might happen next week! There are a few frame repairs to tackle as the front section of my frame is missing some sheet metal from a previous repair.
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Boy Chuck, you certainly have been busy! I hope that after you've finished all this body work that the itching will stop soon!
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I can feel it between my fingers when I type! The deep itch that never leaves!!
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It goes away after a month. Ask me how I know .........
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Sandy, I see that you’re an aficionado of uncle bumble! Nice.
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Bodzer, The AvE youtube channel is a great source of shop knowledge, C&C milling and Adult Shop humour. I have all the (?safety?) stickers. Much bigger ski area than I play at. Keep Smiling, stay safe.
Sandy
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I just shot the first coat of polyester primer down on the S1 boot and bonnet to prepare the plugs. I reduced 10% with styrene and ran it through a 2mm tip. I think this may be too small as I did not get the coverage I expected. Does anyone else have a preferred method for polyester primer? Where are my painters at??
On a side note I am making progress on both fronts. I am in the midst of patching pinholes in my doors. I have sanded the boot and bonnet channels in the body and filled the voids in them. A bit more sanding tonight and I think the car will be stripped of all the previous owners paint.
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Great progress on the preparation for the plugs! 8)
(sorry but I can't help you with any painting tips!)
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This is the polyester molding primer I used. I am going to order a gun with a bigger tip. It ran very thick and I did not get good coverage with 2mm.
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Looks good anyway!
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Looks good anyway!
Thanks! I filled in the key holes for the mold, but I like the look so much that I am going to come up with a cabin only or remote release for both panels.
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Now I am getting to the fun part of sanding...the not itchy kind!
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You're going to have a small fleet when you're done. Are you planning to keep them all?
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You're going to have a small fleet when you're done. Are you planning to keep them all?
I have a problem...and admitting it is the first step....
I don't know what I will do with so many driving Europas. I barely know what to do with 4 broken ones. :)
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On a side note I am making progress on both fronts. I am in the midst of patching pinholes in my doors.
G'day Chuck,
For the pinholes, you could apply some of that polyester primer with a brush or roller before the first spray coat - that's what I do anyway.
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On a side note I am making progress on both fronts. I am in the midst of patching pinholes in my doors.
G'day Chuck,
For the pinholes, you could apply some of that polyester primer with a brush or roller before the first spray coat - that's what I do anyway.
That is a great idea! I will give it a shot. I was planning on priming my TCS this weekend, but mother nature has other ideas. Thanks Gavin.
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Is no one going to address the elephant in the room? The "Lover of the Year Award" sticker? :FUNNY:
t
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Is no one going to address the elephant in the room? The "Lover of the Year Award" sticker? :FUNNY:
t
That is actually the reason why I bought the car. The PO told me that this is a transferable award, but I feel I need to hunt down some of the Col's girls and confirm.
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Here's the progress on the S1A panels from today. I need to shoot the top side of the rear deck lid one more time after a quick skim coat of putty in a few places. The front decklid still needs the underside primed. Hoping to have these entombed in their molds soon :)
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Thanks! I filled in the key holes for the mold, but I like the look so much that I am going to come up with a cabin only or remote release for both panels.
Tempted, Chuck?
Not my pics - stolen from the interwebs and I didn't take note the maker.
It looks very neat IMHO, so kudos to them.
If I recall, the catch plate started out as VW Beetle part.
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Thanks! I filled in the key holes for the mold, but I like the look so much that I am going to come up with a cabin only or remote release for both panels.
Tempted, Chuck?
Not my pics - stolen from the interwebs and I didn't take note the maker.
It looks very neat IMHO, so kudos to them.
If I recall, the catch plate started out as VW Beetle part.
Very nice!
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I am getting the wheel wells stripped out to prep for priming around the arches. Just finishing up the last of the tissue repairs on stress cracks towards the bottom of the car and it should be on to the first coat of primer.
On to the fabrication side of things. The front T section of the frame had been repaired by the PO and I think it would be better to remake a new one like Serge did. I need to verify that this frame is even actually straight. With the car on jack stands as pictured the front left corner sits .250" above the jack stand. The reference point for the front is the lower control arm mount, which was welded in its position by the PO. The rear bobbins are bolted in and the frame forks sit flush on the jacks so that is good. It is evident that this car was rear ended at some point in its life. The center of the frame also looks suspect for corrosion.
I also have the Green S1A which needs a new complete frame as the original is a write off... I am thinking about making a Spyder style tube frame, possibly like a 47 similar to Roddy's set up. The more I look at this body the more I realize how much the damage of having its frame removed poorly has affected the body over time. The window gaps are worse than they have ever been, to the point that the passenger door wont shut because it is pinched by the body at the top of the windshield. I am not sure if this can be easily remedied. My plan was to make a frame and let it sit on it to stretch out.
Serge just posted a video about his tip over jig and it got me thinking about how I am actually going to fit the chassis in place. Would anyone care to chime in with their methods? As of right now I have the all pieces the body that were removed from the car (frame removed from bottom), so in theory I could fiberglass them back together, rivet the frame to the piece, and then join the frame to the body with the piece attached. Then it could be fiberglassed back together from the underside.
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I'm not a welder so I can't help you with that but I would suggest if you do make a new 'T' section, that you build in extra access to the steering u-joint. My frame is an early Spyder unit before they went to their full tube frame. As you can see from the attached picture (you sort of have to look around the roll bar drop link) there is lots of room to get to the u-joint. You can get a bit of an idea how my 'T' is put together and I can take more pictures if you're interested but there's lots of ways to skin that cat.
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Could you reattach the image? I dont think it went through.
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I just realized I forgot to attach my picture! Here it is.
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Nice! thanks for the pic. My biggest complaint on the twin cam disassembly was the access to remove the steering rack and shaft for sure! Did spyder use .063 sheet metal like Lotus did for most of the construction? It looks like the steering rack supports are a 1/8" or something a little more robust.
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I never measured the thickness of the sheet. I would guess all the sheet in the frame is the same thickness. I'll see if I can take some measurements for you. The rack mounts are probably 1/4" since they are threaded for the rack clamp bolts.
It would have been nice to get Spyder's tube frame but this frame is much nicer than the Lotus frame. There is much better access where you need it and it should be at least as stiff as the stock frame. I'm really glad I got it!
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Alright big step forward today on S1A. I fixed the major cracks and got the car primed today. I found a previous repair around the mouth of the car which has caused it to be out of shape. That repair along with grafting a new rear section on to this car are the next big hurdles. My rear section of the other S1A is shaping up nicely for its mold. I wanted to get the body in primer so I can start correcting the pin holes and other blemishes.
A few notes on the painting. I am trying the Duratec surfacing primer on the S1A. I shot the body with my FLG4 Devilbiss primer gun w/ 2.2 tip, air turned up to 120 psi at the tank reg, gun shoots at 40psi or so. I have a refrigerated dryer and two filters on it. The gun shot it OK, but it started to thicken up on my as I finished spraying the car. I switched to a 2.5 mm gun I bought from USComposites and it works much MUCH better with this polyester primer. The fan is much bigger, the spray is much better. I feel like I am actually putting down a nice volume of paint.
I am looking to try the 2.5 with the evercoat slick sand next on the TCS. Hoping to spray the doors tomorrow...and maybe the TCS for round 2. Depends on how it goes tonight!
One interesting note... The chassis number is 0468 but the body number is 0470. How many S1 owners have mismatched bodies and frames? *Edit - JB answered this on the first page. The answer is most of them apparently* I think this is also true of my other S1 but I will have to check again. With my body number being 0470 I am really fighting the urge to convert this in to a 47 replica... >:D
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Chuck,
When you say "Duratec surfacing primer", do you mean the darker grey stuff intended for moulds?
If yes, I'd be interested in your take on its general workability . . sand-ability, hardness etc.
It's an interesting product and Duratec say it can even be polished.
They apparently have a thinner for it too, but now you're putting it on with a 2.5 mm 'hose' ;) perhaps that doesn't matter any more.
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Chuck,
When you say "Duratec surfacing primer", do you mean the darker grey stuff intended for moulds?
If yes, I'd be interested in your take on its general workability . . sand-ability, hardness etc.
It's an interesting product and Duratec say it can even be polished.
They apparently have a thinner for it too, but now you're putting it on with a 2.5 mm 'hose' ;) perhaps that doesn't matter any more.
Gavin,
Yes the 2.5 truly is a hose. I can't wait to unleash it on the TCS body tomorrow. The boot and bonnet look spectacular from it. The Devilbiss sprayed kind of dry and light on the body, but its ok as I mostly intended this first round as a guide coat to show major flaws. Learn as you go! So far my experience is that they both sand very easily. We will see how well it polishes.
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Yes, they do look pretty spectacular.
Cool . . if the surfacing primer is easy to sand, it may be overall better than Slick Sand as far as shaping goes.
My impression was that the surfacing primer is more dense and would be harder to sand which kinda points to its intended use as a mold surfacing.
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Chuck, I know this is off topic but I wanted to tell you I like your avatar. I'm not sa motorcycle guy but the Britten and the story behind it are amazing! I got a chance to see one at the Barber museum.
Since they have a large collection of Loti there, we should organize a meet there sometime.
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Chuck, I know this is off topic but I wanted to tell you I like your avatar. I'm not sa motorcycle guy but the Britten and the story behind it are amazing! I got a chance to see one at the Barber museum.
Since they have a large collection of Loti there, we should organize a meet there sometime.
Thanks BDA! I figured since my car no longer looks like it has been sitting in a field for 40 years I should update my avatar to something more timeless.
I also don't own any bikes, but I am a huge fan of the Britten. The motivation that drove that team to produce it in a garage... I am in awe every time I think about it. It always makes me want to work harder! The man was a dynamo.
https://www.nzonscreen.com/title/britten-backyard-visionary-1993 (https://www.nzonscreen.com/title/britten-backyard-visionary-1993)
For anyone that is interested, that link is the first draft of the documentary. There is a longer version which covers their BEARS campaign and speed records. There is also a biography by Tim Hanna that is very good. He really gets in to a lot of the technical and personal challenges of the team.
We should definitely meet up there sometime!
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An update on the paint guns.
After using the 2.5 gun a few times it is starting to show its flaws. It is a cheap gun. If you don't clean it 100% it will jam up. Disassembly is much more time consuming than the Devilbiss FLG4.
I tried thinning the solvent with a little MEK to help it spray out of the devilbiss and it works well. I am going to keep playing with it, but the extra .3 mm may not be worth the headache of full disassembly of this cheap gun every time when you can just thin the paint a little.
I have filled the first round of pinholes on the S1 so now it is time for more sanding!
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Can't tell which were done with the cheap gun. They all look great!
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Can't tell which were done with the cheap gun. They all look great!
Thanks BDA! It is moving along!!
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Went Slicksand on round 2 of the S1. So far so good! Like the twin cam I am anticipating only one more coat will be needed. Hopefully the doors aren't as far out...I have yet to graft the rear section on because I have not made the mold yet... Now we are expecting rain for a week so I should have plenty to sand in the mean time :)
Sanity check- would it be as foolish as I think it would be to try and paint this car before bonding the frame in place? My frame needs work and I am even debating making a replacement/47 style. My painting work flow is going full steam, but as it stands I will be ready to spray this body before a frame is suitable for bonding. This is the project inertia talking....
I could always stop at sealer coat and pause the restoration until I have a suitable frame, but then who knows what month it will be by the time I get back to painting... I am afraid that could push me back a year... Since the frame was cut out of the floor and I have the cut outs I was imagining riveting the frame to the body and then laminating the floor back in place. Seems like it could be done on a painted car...
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She looks great, Chuck!
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Nothing like a fresh coat of primer! It brings out the beauty of the design. It’s hard to break the momentum of painting. Greasy hands on a primed body is asking for problems. It may be better to get to the sealer then break off. It may even better to let the body sit and shrink up.
Looking Great!
Dakazman
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If you have an S1, do you need to bond the chassis to the body?
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She looks great, Chuck!
Thanks BDA!
If you have an S1, do you need to bond the chassis to the body?
I think for the sake of the rigidity and integrity of the body it works best if the floor joins everything together. With the Frame piece cut away from the floor it just flaps around.
Nothing like a fresh coat of primer! It brings out the beauty of the design. It’s hard to break the momentum of painting. Greasy hands on a primed body is asking for problems. It may be better to get to the sealer then break off. It may even better to let the body sit and shrink up.
Looking Great!
Dakazman
Thanks Dman! Yes I was planning to roll it outside and let it sit in the sun like an iguana for a few days :) I think the sensible thing is probably to take it to 400 or even 600 grit in primer and stop until the frame is finished. Then when I am ready I can either make a jig like Serge has done, or try bonding it from the underside. I can just see the resin dripping on me now!
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English Iguanas!
After all the tweaks on the TC doors it was refreshing to have one that appears to fit! It is sitting loose in the picture, but just holding it up to the body it appears I might get away with it :)
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Two primed Europas!! Things are starting to get exciting!
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Two primed Europas!! Things are starting to get exciting!
Compared to her tempermental TC sister, the S1 is behaving rather angelically. I have the bulk of it down to 320 grit and I am getting excited! I offered the doors up to her and they appear to fit beautifully. The Lotus gods are pleased.
Just a few little low spots to hit with filler and she will be ready for the final prime.
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Big update boys!!
My green S1A had damage in the rear. My red S1A had even more damage in the rear. Being that there aren't that many of these floating around I resolved to repair the one with less damage, and mold it so I could repair my current restoration.
I also had a missing piece of the front storage area just above where the pedals go. I decided to mold this too.
After many frustrating rotations of sanding, filling, sanding, filling, and more sanding, and more filling, I finally reached a point where I felt good with the shape of it.
3 gallons of Iso tooling resin later and I have an S1 rear tail panel mold!!! Finally the wrongs can be righted!
The outside of my mold looks like it has leprosy because I was mixing this stuff in June in TX... 95 degrees and poly resin dont play so well together. It would get hard before I could roll it out all the way. bubbles grew on bubbles. I did this in the shade but it only barely made it possible...Still a win is a win in my book!!
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Great stuff, Chuck! Making a mold seemed pretty radical but it is the real solution. Great work! :beerchug:
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Great stuff, Chuck! Making a mold seemed pretty radical but it is the real solution. Great work! :beerchug:
Thanks BDA. The rear section on the red car looks ok from a picture, but in truth there is very little structure there. It is mostly body filler around the bumper section. A PO had tried fiberglassing a piece of timber inside the bumper cavity to give it structure.
Part of my reasoning behind doing this was practice for molding the boot and bonnet since I need those too.
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Hello Chuck!
Fantastic progress! :trophy:
Mark
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Looks brilliant, Chuck.
It's often not appreciated just how much time, effort and fiddling go into a mould.
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Hello Chuck!
Fantastic progress! :trophy:
Mark
Thank you Mark!
Looks brilliant, Chuck.
It's often not appreciated just how much time, effort and fiddling go into a mould.
Thanks Gavin, you are so right! My god it is a tedious affair!! I can't tell you how many times I thought the surface was ready only to find a little wisp of a low spot I had missed...
The Aussie mold man I have been watching makes it look so seamless. A testament to his skill!
Right up to the point before I pulled it off I was thinking. "Damn I am really crazy to go through with molding all these replacement panels..." Then the mold popped off so easily and once I saw... it was immediately worth the effort. I only used wax on the plug, I did not use PVA. I am planning to use PVA on the first few parts I pull.
Right now my remaining to do list of molds is as follows;
S1
bonnet
boot
Doors
Luggage box - this will be much later. The only one I have is from the green S1 and it needs work...
TC
front and rear bumper
chin spoiler
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Nicely done!
Tom
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The bonus is that once you've made them all you'll be able to set up selling parts on the Forum! :D
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The bonus is that once you've made them all you'll be able to set up selling parts on the Forum! :D
To my knowledge there were previously no replacement tail sections available for the Carello tail light S1. Now I just need to write a program to machine the tail light housings out of aluminum :) Then I could offer everyone here a complete package.
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Thanks Gavin, you are so right! My god it is a tedious affair!! I can't tell you how many times I thought the surface was ready only to find a little wisp of a low spot I had missed...
Haha . . .
Years ago, a mate of mine wanted me to make a mould for the whole front of his Spridget race car. I baulked because it was only to be a one-off . . and a heck of a lot of work.
I talked him into taping up the panel gaps and laying glass over the outside, reasoning that it'd end up ~1/8" over size. We'd then slit the whole thing down the middle and re-glass the slit, bringing it to size.
At that point we still had the various reinforcements needed & to smooth the outside for paint, but that was still easier. Of course, being a race car we were not looking for a perfect finish.
Always best to use PVA particularly on the first part pulled - belt and braces.
Subsequent parts invariable release more easily.
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Thanks Gavin, you are so right! My god it is a tedious affair!! I can't tell you how many times I thought the surface was ready only to find a little wisp of a low spot I had missed...
Haha . . .
Years ago, a mate of mine wanted me to make a mould for the whole front of his Spridget race car. I baulked because it was only to be a one-off . . and a heck of a lot of work.
I talked him into taping up the panel gaps and laying glass over the outside, reasoning that it'd end up ~1/8" over size. We'd then slit the whole thing down the middle and re-glass the slit, bringing it to size.
At that point we still had the various reinforcements needed & to smooth the outside for paint, but that was still easier. Of course, being a race car we were not looking for a perfect finish.
Always best to use PVA particularly on the first part pulled - belt and braces.
Subsequent parts invariable release more easily.
Do you have any pics of it? I would love to see it.
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The bonus is that once you've made them all you'll be able to set up selling parts on the Forum! :D
To my knowledge there were previously no replacement tail sections available for the Carello tail light S1. Now I just need to write a program to machine the tail light housings out of aluminum :) Then I could offer everyone here a complete package.
replacement S1 tail sections AND new Carello rear light units? :beerchug:
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The bonus is that once you've made them all you'll be able to set up selling parts on the Forum! :D
To my knowledge there were previously no replacement tail sections available for the Carello tail light S1. Now I just need to write a program to machine the tail light housings out of aluminum :) Then I could offer everyone here a complete package.
replacement S1 tail sections AND new Carello rear light units? :beerchug:
I have been seriously thinking about it! I have 2 S1 and only one set of tail lights, what else is a boy to do?? :beerchug:
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I haven't needed a tail section but there must be a requirement? (especially for repairs or for converting to the S1 style?)
The light units are made from a very average-quality alloy material and the chrome plate has almost always deteriorated - therefore new (quality) chrome-plated units would be a bonus!
I've been lucky and found rear light units and lenses (the lenses are in great condition, the units are 'good' but not great)
Mark
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Do you have any pics of it? I would love to see it.
No pics, Im afraid.
But it got him enthused.
He later did the doors and boot by himself. He even went to the trouble of taking a flop of the inside of those panels. Those flops of 'inside' panels were then glued to the exterior panels. He weighed them and the weight saving quite substantial.
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New repro Carello lights available in Netherlands.
http://www.classiclancia.com/car-parts/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=276
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New repro Carello lights available in Netherlands.
http://www.classiclancia.com/car-parts/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=276
Thanks John! That is good to know.
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In preparation for the carbon twin cam parts I decided to polish up the S1 molds I took over the summer and decided to pull some parts off them! They look good!!! I need to tweak the thickness and add some meat to the rear. I might try honeycomb in the bumper area just to be fancy.
Looking forward to the carbon :)
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In preparation for the carbon twin cam parts I decided to polish up the S1 molds I took over the summer and decided to pull some parts off them! They look good!!! I need to tweak the thickness and add some meat to the rear. I might try honeycomb in the bumper area just to be fancy.
Looking forward to the carbon :)
Fantastic work! :coolpic:
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They look great, Chuck! :beerchug: